Betta with red markings and weird white dot?

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It is hard to tell from the photos. And we do need ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings so as soon as you get those, please test and report back. If you have bought a nitrate tester, take note of the instructions - they will say to shake one of the bottles, then the test tube after the drops have been added. This shaking is important - I would shake the bottle longer than they say.
Until the testers arrive, daily 50% water changes are the best thing to do.

What tank is the betta in? I've got lost about what fish is where :huh:


Salt. This needs to be pure salt. Most table and cooking salt has anti caking agents and in some countries iodine is also added. So these can't be used. Aquarium salt is pure salt, but expensive. Salt is a good, mild antiseptic and can help in many conditions, though when an infection has got a serious hold, stronger meds will be needed. It shouldn't be used full time but can be used for a short period.
Colin_T has written a sticky on what to do if a fish gets sick, and the second post in there deals with salt. He says to use it at the dose rate
1 heaped tablespoon (that's 1 heaped 15 ml spoon for those who use metric) per 20 litres (5 gallons) of tank water. The salt should not be added straight to the tank as undissolved salt can burn a fish. A bit of tank water should be taken out in another container and the salt dissolved in that. Then it should be poured slowly back into the tank. When doing a water change, add salt to the new water only at the same dose rate. This will keep the salt level in the tank water constant.
After 2 weeks, start doing water changes with no salt in the new water to slowly dilute out the salt.
 
It is hard to tell from the photos. And we do need ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings so as soon as you get those, please test and report back. If you have bought a nitrate tester, take note of the instructions - they will say to shake one of the bottles, then the test tube after the drops have been added. This shaking is important - I would shake the bottle longer than they say.
Until the testers arrive, daily 50% water changes are the best thing to do.

What tank is the betta in? I've got lost about what fish is where :huh:


Salt. This needs to be pure salt. Most table and cooking salt has anti caking agents and in some countries iodine is also added. So these can't be used. Aquarium salt is pure salt, but expensive. Salt is a good, mild antiseptic and can help in many conditions, though when an infection has got a serious hold, stronger meds will be needed. It shouldn't be used full time but can be used for a short period.
Colin_T has written a sticky on what to do if a fish gets sick, and the second post in there deals with salt. He says to use it at the dose rate
1 heaped tablespoon (that's 1 heaped 15 ml spoon for those who use metric) per 20 litres (5 gallons) of tank water. The salt should not be added straight to the tank as undissolved salt can burn a fish. A bit of tank water should be taken out in another container and the salt dissolved in that. Then it should be poured slowly back into the tank. When doing a water change, add salt to the new water only at the same dose rate. This will keep the salt level in the tank water constant.
After 2 weeks, start doing water changes with no salt in the new water to slowly dilute out the salt.
my bettas in a 3 gallon.
 
That's just about OK for a betta. If you do use salt, you'll need to use a dessertspoon/10 ml spoonful of salt. But don't forget to dissolve it in a bit of tank water in a separate container first. Then if you change half the water - 1.5 gallons - add 1 heaped teaspoonful/5 ml spoonful to the new water before putting it in the tank.

I don't know if you use teaspoons and dessertspoons or 5 ml and 10 ml spoons for measuring things with so I thought I'd better give both :)
 
That's just about OK for a betta. If you do use salt, you'll need to use a dessertspoon/10 ml spoonful of salt. But don't forget to dissolve it in a bit of tank water in a separate container first. Then if you change half the water - 1.5 gallons - add 1 heaped teaspoonful/5 ml spoonful to the new water before putting it in the tank.

I don't know if you use teaspoons and dessertspoons or 5 ml and 10 ml spoons for measuring things with so I thought I'd better give both :)
thank you, i will do exactly that
 
With the API nitrate tester (the one I use, other brands may be slightly different), drops from bottle #1 are added to the test tube then the tube should be capped and turned upside down a few times to mix the drops in. Bottle #2 should then be shaken for at least 30 seconds (and if it hasn't been used for a while, it should be tapped on the worktop a few times before shaking). Drops are them added from bottle #2, the tube capped and shaken for 1 minute, then allowed to stand for 5 minutes.

One of the reagents in bottle #2 doesn't really dissolve and it settles on the bottom of the bottle. The bottle needs to be shaken to get it all back evenly distributed in the liquid. Shaking the bottle till your arm feels like it's about to fall off is even better than 30 seconds. If the bottle hasn't been used for a while, the sediment clumps into lumps, and tapping the bottle on the worktop breaks up the lumps. Not shaking the bottle causes inaccurate readings.
Shaking the tube for 1 minute stops the reagent falling to the bottom of the tube until it starts to react. This should only be for 1 minute or it makes the timing for reading the colour inaccurate


Most other makes of nitrate tester use the same reagent, though some have 3 bottles and others add it as a powder; but all of them require shaking as part of the instructions.
 
With the API nitrate tester (the one I use, other brands may be slightly different), drops from bottle #1 are added to the test tube then the tube should be capped and turned upside down a few times to mix the drops in. Bottle #2 should then be shaken for at least 30 seconds (and if it hasn't been used for a while, it should be tapped on the worktop a few times before shaking). Drops are them added from bottle #2, the tube capped and shaken for 1 minute, then allowed to stand for 5 minutes.

One of the reagents in bottle #2 doesn't really dissolve and it settles on the bottom of the bottle. The bottle needs to be shaken to get it all back evenly distributed in the liquid. Shaking the bottle till your arm feels like it's about to fall off is even better than 30 seconds. If the bottle hasn't been used for a while, the sediment clumps into lumps, and tapping the bottle on the worktop breaks up the lumps. Not shaking the bottle causes inaccurate readings.
Shaking the tube for 1 minute stops the reagent falling to the bottom of the tube until it starts to react. This should only be for 1 minute or it makes the timing for reading the colour inaccurate


Most other makes of nitrate tester use the same reagent, though some have 3 bottles and others add it as a powder; but all of them require shaking as part of the instructions.
perfect, because i ordered API test kits.
 
the nitrite one will be here by the 14th and the ammonia one will be here by the 24th
Wait... You got them separately? I thought it was the master test kit. As long as its the liquid and not the strip test kits your good
 
the master one was to expensive and i could not afford it, so i just got the 2 separately. Its liquid not strip.
Ok... Out of curiosity, how much does Australia charge you for the test kit?
 

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