Aquarium Plants Losing Leaves

[crimsonpython24]

Can anyone please help? This plant has been shedding leaves with the new ones turning white. The stem and roots seemed to not rot yet as the plant is still standing.

https://imgur.com/a/UmjVxIM

The tips should be the color of the last image (kinda magenta-ish). All the other plants in the tank are fine.

What could possibly be the cause? I currently have seachem's "fundamentals" and NPK supplies, in case they'll come handy.

Part 2 of the question: a few weeks ago I posted a question asking why some leaves aren't completely healthy, and the answer I got was that they're possibly grown out of the water.

https://imgur.com/a/Ljtgz6g

Yet, the leaves still appear like this. Like the plant above, neither of these two are stem-/root-rotting. They're sitting "fine" in my tank.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sunnyspots]

Deficiency symptoms in aquatic plants - | Aquasabi

Correctly interpret growth damage

www.aquasabi.com

Have you looked at this for ideas?

 

[crimsonpython24]

@Sunnyspots yeah, I've checked, but it doesn't mention the loss of leaves or regarding immersed/un-immersed leaves.

The second problem is that this phenomenon is not apparent throughout the tank, it only happened to one.

 

[Sunnyspots]

That's a shame. Thinking about my outdoor garden, a single sick plant might mean a plant parasite, fungus or virus. Otherwise I'm out of ideas I'm afraid. Has the plant part of the forums not been able to help?

 

[crimsonpython24]

I think I was kinda desperate to get an answer ASAP so I moved the discussion here. I'll move it back to the plant part if necessary.

 

[Sunnyspots]

Good luck!

 

[Byron]

I would suggest this is a light/nutrient issue, either or both. In this case it has nothing to do with Echinodorus being a marsh plant. The problem is evident on both the (formerly) emersed and submersed leaves.

The lack of colour in the stem plant (first photo) may be more light-related. Reddish leaves appear red because they reflect more red light, and since red light is primary to photosynthesis, the lighting has to be more intense in the red spectrum. This does not mean red bulbs/tubes/diodes, just a good level of red in the white light mix. Blue is another required colour for photosynthesis, but not as important, and too much blue can cause algae problems. Green is also good to boost the intensity, and does make a difference. Light around 5000-6000K should be ideal, provided it is of sufficient intensity.

As for the nutrient side, the sword will improve with a substrate tab, like Seachem's Flourish Tabs; one next to the roots, replaced every 3-4 months, and you will see incredible improvement. A comprehensive liquid will benefit the stem plants.

 

[itiwhetu]

Echinodorus don't like to be moved and often sulk for awhile make sure it is getting constant amount of light. Put your lights on a timer for say 10 hours per day , and don't be tempted to play with it or move it around the tank.

 

[StevenF]

When a nutrient defieicny is pressent the leaves will be damaged and eventually those leave will die and fall of the plant. The leaves will not heal.

Some basic questions first how often do you do a water change and how much water is changed? How many gallons or liters of water can the tank hold. What is your nitrate, Gh levels? also what products do you ad to your water such as fertilizers, water conditioners and anything else that sin a bottle Please lis the manufacture and the commercial name of the product and how much you add to your tank and how often.

Note if only the older leaves that could indicate a mobil nutrient deficiency who'll should be used by a N, P K, Mg, Cl, Mo. However your pictures don't indicate that. So that would leave the other nutrients such as Ca, S, Fe. The remaining element Mn, B, Zn, Cu, and nickel do have nutrient deficiencies but they can look like many other deficiencies.

MY bst guess is that we are looking at multiple deficiencies. Possible Fe, Ca, and maybe nitrogen.

 

[crimsonpython24]

@StevenF: 40-45% water change once per week (so the water parameters might get a bit more unstable than preferred). The tank is 10 US gallons.

I haven't get my test kits yet; I've added this macro-fertilizer and a Chinese nitrifying bacteria/water stabilizer (removes ammonia and chlorine). I recently got bottles of Seachem Prime/pristine/stable as my previous stocks ran out.

As you had mentioned, I could be missing trace elements since I only have NPK supplements, yet I haven't ordered the corresponding fertilizers yet.

I've also purchased a CO2 pump yesterday, though I'm not sure how this will solve the issue. I'll probably update this thread a week later; in the meantime, comments are still welcome (since I'm not sure how much additional carbon dioxide will do).

 

[itiwhetu]

I have pointed this out in another thread that Nutrient deficiencies can look exactly the same as Nutrient excesses. So be careful what you add to your tank, you may end up chasing your tail.

 

[StevenF]

The macro nutrient are N k Ca Mg P S and Cl. Pure Cl is toxic but chloride salt such as calcium chloride and potassium chloride are safe. Thelist is written in order of lead. N is the most heavily used and Cl is the least. It is likely you don't have a NPK deficiency. However monitor your GH ( the test only detects Ca and Mg. I am guessing but much of your water probly is rain runoff so GH might be low. or change seasonally..

The Macros are Fe, Mn, B, Zn , Cu, Mo, and NI Look for a fertilizer that covers all of these nutrients. I don't have any idea as to what is available in Taiwan.