I will be moving to Australia in February and will be wanting to set up my tropical aquarium, but want I wanna know is will I need a some sort of cooler for the tank as I have lived there previously and the house temp very rarely got below 30C, we had the air con on 26C to keep it certain rooms cool, but Never on 24/7, just curious and any advice would be helpful, thanks.
Any Aussies
- Thread starter cambojnr
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Blondielovesfish
Kia Ora
It depends really on what area you're moving to and what fish you're planning on keeping and their temperature needs.
Blondielovesfish
Kia Ora
Oh nice! Love the goldcoast!
Would pay to get a cooler, unless you want to do the frozen water bottle method all summer long.
Would pay to get a cooler, unless you want to do the frozen water bottle method all summer long.
G'day. From Brisbane. But I used to live a fair bit further north. Ay.
Current temp in the 200l is 27 degrees (on the western side of the house), 25 degrees in the 130l (eastern side).
Considering moving the biggun a bit further away from the wall, or leting the little fellas enjoy a bit of balmy weather (they're tropical after all).
Although I would be interested in finding out more about a cooler, I was thinking with a large amount of water the temp would be fairly steady (might increase gradually over summer, decrease gradually over winter), I'm all ears!
Current temp in the 200l is 27 degrees (on the western side of the house), 25 degrees in the 130l (eastern side).
Considering moving the biggun a bit further away from the wall, or leting the little fellas enjoy a bit of balmy weather (they're tropical after all).
Although I would be interested in finding out more about a cooler, I was thinking with a large amount of water the temp would be fairly steady (might increase gradually over summer, decrease gradually over winter), I'm all ears!
I live in central QLD so a lot hotter and drier (less rain but not less humidity) than the cold coast. I don't have chillers as they are to expensive for the size of my tanks, number and where the tanks are set up. And realistically unless the tank is set up inside a house with the aircon running 24/7 a chiller will only pull the tank temp down 1 or two degrees.
Instead all of my tanks are open topped and even species well known for wondering out of tanks remain in my tanks. My filters are almost all HOBs and these I ensure create a ripple across the surface of the tank. Depending on the sized tank I also position an airstone on the opposite end of the tank to the HOB.
For lighting I mostly use T8's but have now started investing in T5's and LED which don't generate as much heat, also my lights don't tend to run the full length of my tanks creating a shadow area usually near the filter return that is not getting extra heat from any light source.
To increase the heat transfer at the surface of your tank you could also invest in some fans that blow across the surface of the tank increasing evaporation and thus cooling.
I also turn off my heaters in around October/ November depending on weather patterns and don't turn them on again until the end of summer or when night time temps start to dip below 15 degrees cel over night.
My tanks all have natural live plants as well which I believe helps with oxygen levels in warm water while the lights are on ( warm water holds less oxygen than cool water), and they also help with any nutrients produced by the fish.
The fish your hoping to stock will handle quite warm water but many corys are not true warm water lovers, the ones best known for being more warm water tolerant are corydoras strebai, a centre piece fish I would suggest would be dwarf gourami but not angels as they naturally predate on tetras and cardinal tetras are generally smaller than neon tetras.
Instead all of my tanks are open topped and even species well known for wondering out of tanks remain in my tanks. My filters are almost all HOBs and these I ensure create a ripple across the surface of the tank. Depending on the sized tank I also position an airstone on the opposite end of the tank to the HOB.
For lighting I mostly use T8's but have now started investing in T5's and LED which don't generate as much heat, also my lights don't tend to run the full length of my tanks creating a shadow area usually near the filter return that is not getting extra heat from any light source.
To increase the heat transfer at the surface of your tank you could also invest in some fans that blow across the surface of the tank increasing evaporation and thus cooling.
I also turn off my heaters in around October/ November depending on weather patterns and don't turn them on again until the end of summer or when night time temps start to dip below 15 degrees cel over night.
My tanks all have natural live plants as well which I believe helps with oxygen levels in warm water while the lights are on ( warm water holds less oxygen than cool water), and they also help with any nutrients produced by the fish.
The fish your hoping to stock will handle quite warm water but many corys are not true warm water lovers, the ones best known for being more warm water tolerant are corydoras strebai, a centre piece fish I would suggest would be dwarf gourami but not angels as they naturally predate on tetras and cardinal tetras are generally smaller than neon tetras.
Thanks for that, very helpful and informative.
my tank is only a 120l planted tank, I use a tetra tec ex700 external filter which I have pointed the outflow up towards to top of the tank to create maximum agitation to the water surface, I imagine I will just have to get it set up and see how the temperature fluctuates over the cycling period and test with the lids on and off. Again thank you very much for the info.
my tank is only a 120l planted tank, I use a tetra tec ex700 external filter which I have pointed the outflow up towards to top of the tank to create maximum agitation to the water surface, I imagine I will just have to get it set up and see how the temperature fluctuates over the cycling period and test with the lids on and off. Again thank you very much for the info.
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