Amonia Test Kits In The Uk

Tag2008

Fish Crazy
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Hi,
Im following the fishless cycle guide, but see my amonia test lit measures in MG/L as apposed to the guide in here looks for measurments in PPM

Whats the best test kits for amonia to use in the UK and whats the difference in how the scales are worked can I convert ppM to mg/l ?

Thanks again
Tag
 
I think most people on here use API, the master test kit costs around £20-£25
 
Yes API test kits are the best. ppm and mg/l are the same measurement.
 
Thanks Guys,

I cant get API from my local shops...

I have an interpet kit here I bought , consisits of tablets i crush into tube and match the colour...

But when following the fishless cycle guide I cant see a PPM measurment on my kit only mg/l and i match to a colour on the back of the box

There seems to be no way i can see what im doing as when i look at the scale of colours my water is at the lowest scale and thats after Ive added 10 ml of pure amonia to my tank??

Today I have tested the water again and its been 3 days since i added my fist lot of amonia and although the colour in the tube seems to be lighter in colour Ive no idea what the exact level is as it seems so vague? Or its a duff kit?

On this kit the top end of the amonia scale is green and the bottom fades to pale yellow.. Ive been at a pale yellow all the time?? lol

The local shop says it has another test kit that measures in PPM im not sure of the brand but is £10 so Im off to get it to see what it reads...

Thanks again
Tag
 
you could try getting the api kit off of the internet?

I havent used the interpet one, but I have the nutrafin and api kits.

IMO the API kit is easier to call.

and ppm and mg/l are the same, so if you have 4mg/l ammonia then you have 4ppm ammonia too.
 
Hi tag and welcome to the forum.

I do not know that Interpet kits are bad per say, but I certainly have read a lot of threads here where members are either having trouble with them or having trouble interpreting them.

In addition it sounds like you are getting off to a bit of a bad start to your fishless cycling. It should all be much more straight-forward than this. Normally, you should have a set of good test results on your source/tap water, add conditioner to it to remove any chlorine or chloramines and be starting from a well-known starting point. You should have a good test kit you understand and begin testing twice a day. You should have an aquarium log where you always record all your test results and any notes you want to make.

You should take a couple of gallons in a bucket and run the tests as RDD's article says, to establish how many drops or dropper squirts will truly bring your ammonia level up to 4-5ppm and not more. Then when you multiply that and first do it in the tank it is important to test the resulting level and see that it all worked out and the overall newly fishless cycling tank is really sitting there at 4-5ppm (and not 3ppm or 8ppm for example.)

Since you already have the Interpet kit, I would attempt to understand it for now but I would be taking action to try and get a kit that will be easier to use. Many, many of the members here, including me, use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit and find it relatively easy to use with repeatable results. There are also Hagen/Nutrafin Mini-master kits but it can be important to get one that includes the Nitrate test, as not all do apparently.

Once your measurements are easy and reliable, you want to choose whether to make your "daily ammonia add" in the morning or at night. Each can have advantages/disadvantages depending on your household schedule. The point in the day where you add ammonia can be the easier one, without tests if you are in a rush, whereas the other point is where you will want to definately do the tests to see what has happened at the 12 hour mark. At various significant points in the fishless cycling process, knowing whether you've processed ammonia or nitrite within 12 hours is an important result.

Ammonia, Nitrite and pH are the most important things to keep track of frequently. Occasionally, Nitrate is a helpful thing to know but that is a more complicated test and you'll want to minimize the number of times you need to do it.

Hope you can get things sorted out and off to a better start!

~~waterdrop~~
 
Thanks Guys,
I got a better Ammonia test kit from the LFS and its bang on..
Im doing the add and wait method and added my second lot of ammonia today to raise the level again..

Im going to look out for a new test kit and will try and get an API

The LFS bloke said i should get individual kits for each test , he said it was better and downed the API kit to me? I guess he is after making more money from me?

Cheers tag
 
The LFS bloke said i should get individual kits for each test , he said it was better and downed the API kit to me? I guess he is after making more money from me?

Probably - the individual API drop tests are the same as the master kit, except the master kit has a handy black plastic carrying thing.

Actually, you might be able to save a little bit getting them separate, if you know which pH test you need (there's a separate test for pH over 7.4 or so). The master kit cost me $30, but if I only got the pH test I need, I could buy them individually for $27. IMO, the case is useful enough to be well worth the extra few bucks, and I just replace the tests with individuals when they run out.
 

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