Test Kits.

[TheFishCellar]

Hi guys ! 
 
It seems it about time for me to get a new test kit, so i was wondering if any body has had any experiences with a particular kit witch has made you go " WOW , that's awesome" or "CHRIST , that's naf "  i'd prefer to make up my own test kit of different brands this time so i can get a little more accuracy,  opinions are welcomed as im looking for people who have actually had experience with what there recommending .... in my kit i like to have :
 
pH
Ammonia
nitrite
nitrate 
phosphate 
KH
GH
Iron 
chlorine
C02
Phosphate
calcium
magnesium 
tds 
conductivity 
 
I'm open to any and all suggestions so shoot away & thanks for any suggestions.
 

 

[DreamertK]

The freshwater master kit has the bear essentials for a decent price. API does individual test kits, but I'm not sure if they have all of those. I kind of think of them as the most accurate out there compared to the other test kits available in my area (strips).
 
CO2 you kind of have to measure with a pH tester and knowing what your GH/KH is and compare it on a chart.
 
Conductivity is measured by the amount of solids in your water. I'm not sure what the purpose of this test would be.

 

[daizeUK]

In terms of ammonia test kits, I have tested API, Salifert and Seachem Multitest.  My personal experience with each : the API kit was highly inaccurate, the Salifert test just didn't work (other people have also reported the same problem with their Salifert kit).  The Seachem Multitest kit is the most accurate and comes with it's own reference test so that you can check how accurate it is.  If you're looking for accuracy as priority, get the Seachem ammonia test.

 

[malfunction]

I've used both API's and Interpet's (Blagdon) master kits. Neither of them made me say wow, but they were ok for what I needed. With the exception of the ammonia, Interpet's test are fairly straight forward. Interpet's nitrate test is much more consistent than API's because you don't have to worry about properly mixing the reagents (it's in tablet form). The ammonia test can be a bit of a pain though, as one of the tablets takes ages to dissolve. This is easily resolved by crushing it prior to adding it to the test tube though.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I am assuming you are asking re fresh water.
 
pH- needed. Make sure you can test in the range of your water in terms of the range of the kit you get.
Ammonia- needed.
nitrite- needed.
nitrate- optional.
phosphate- not needed unless you do intense live plants.
KH- Normally only needed to know your tap and then you can get the store to test for you. Most relevant during cycling.
GH- Normally only needed to know your tap and then you can get the store to test for you. Can be relevant with live plants.
Iron- not needed unless you do intense live plants.
chlorine- not needed unless you plan to swim in your tank.
C02- not needed unless you do intense live plants and are adding co2.
Phosphate- not needed unless you do intense live plants.
calcium- not needed.
magnesium- not needed.
tds- requires a digital meter/monitor. Essentially the same as conductuivity.
conductivity- requires a digital meter/monitor. Essentially the same as TDS
 
For most hobbyists most test kits are not needed. To get through cycling etc. one can manage with pH, Ammonia and nitrite kits. I am of the opinion that most hobby test kits are of similar quality. I consider most of them accurate enough to indicate direction and relative readings. But they have enough problems and potential weaknesses to be unusable in mission critical testing. I do not test for GH or KH, I have a hand held meter for TDS/Temp.. I have a monitor that continuously measures temp-conductivity/TD-pH as well. But these are used for the sort of setups most fishkeepers do not keep and therefore they do not need such digital accuracy.
 
Just to give an idea of the difference between a hobby grade and a more accurate close to lab grade kit. I can get  and API ammonia kit which will perform 75 tests for about $6.40 or I can get a decent kit from Hach which runs between $79 and  $84 for 100 tests depending which of the two kits I prefer.

 

[daizeUK]

Hmm... do any plant experts actually recommend buying iron, phosphate or GH tests for 'intense live plants'?  The popular Estimative Index method of fertilizing plants would certainly never bother testing for phosphate or iron.  Maybe other dosing methods might involve testing for nutrients but I have doubts about how accurate or useful the information really is.
 
Chlorine is easily removed with dechlorinator so there's usually no need to test for it.
 
CO2 is usually measured with a drop checker (which is essentially a specialised pH test) for those who add CO2.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

What an easy time of it if everybody who kept live plants used the EI method. Not me, I have kept as many at 10 planted tanks at one time over the years and have never even read the directions for EI. I get the concept but I have no interest in using it. This does not change the fact that there is no need for many of the kits mentioned except for plants. And then not everybody might want or use them.
 
Not everybody has the time nor the desire to use the EI method as it requires daily dosing. It is a fine method until real life intrudes and some days one simply cannot do the dosing, So tell me how well EI works for such folks who regularly skip adding things a few days a week? And if one cannot or does not want to use EI, what are your suggestions for them to know when things may be missing or in excess supply. Or how about what is already in your tap? How will the EI method let you know you have a bunch of iron in your tap water or what level of other things it might contain. What if you need to adjust the EI method to allow for your tap parameters? And then what if your tap parameters change with time?
 
Plants can suffer from deficiencies or too much of things no matter what method one uses to fertilize. In such cases the kits help. Especially when one is not using the more intensive plant setups.
 
And lets be honest, a drop checker is just a glorified pH test that uses color to give the result. And one's ability to see colors has noting to do with whether those colors are in a drop checker or on a test kit card and vial of solutions, its still a subjective reading.
 
Intense live planting is not limited to the high tech tanks, you can have a low light tank with more basic plants that is heavily planted. Intense plants mean they need more care. But even these have needs and what is in GH is one of them. I would love to see plants that thrive in a tank with 0 GH. But plants also do better with lower KH on balance. So add that to the above as well.
 
There is a decent piece on EI here http/www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/fertilizing/15225-estimative-index-dosing-guide.html
You will see EI is not for every tank for sure. Then you will read this, which I totally reject as false:

 
For micro - trace elements, Plantex CSM+B, Seachem Flourish, and Tropica AquaCare are equivalent to each other.

 
I started out using Flourish and switched to Tropica because the SeaChem did not cut it for me. Tropica is not cheap, so after a number of years of getting great results with it, I decided to try the dry mix in the above to save some money. My plants did noticeably worse and I quickly reordered the Tropica product. Just because it is a plant site doesn't mean it is always right, imo. Those 3 things are not equivalent, ime/imo.
 
Lastly, I suggest you might want to chat with Byron, a member here, about plants and GH.

 

[daizeUK]

And if one cannot or does not want to use EI, what are your suggestions for them to know when things may be missing or in excess supply. Or how about what is already in your tap? How will the EI method let you know you have a bunch of iron in your tap water or what level of other things it might contain. What if you need to adjust the EI method to allow for your tap parameters? And then what if your tap parameters change with time?

 
The EI guys will tell you it doesn't matter.  The point of EI is to have an excess of nutrients and most of them couldn't give two figs what is already in your water supply.  I got lambasted for trying to adjust my EI dosing schedule to account for what's in my water supply.  Those guys really don't care if you overdose.  They'll tell you how they've run tanks at 2x, 3x, 5x or more times the recommended EI dosing and that it's perfectly safe.  

 

[Mamashack]

I think the OP has already decided what he wants in his arsenal of tests. I believe he was asking for brand rather than actual test recommendations. 
The majority of members seem to favour API altho the nitrate one can be a pain at times - I prefer the Salifert one for that. Not as cost effective as you only get 60 tests for your buck, but the test is easy enough to do and distinguish the colours.
I'm with daize on the Salifert ammonia test tho - mine just wouldn't register anything at all even tho I'd added ammonia to 3 ppm whilst cycling so I knew it was there.
I use a TDS-3 meter, and will be getting API GH/KH soon.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

daize the EI guys also will tell you "The Estimative Index method works best for a high light and well planted aquarium." But we can just ignore that part I guess. But what about all those folks with plants who do not use the EI method? Lets just forget about them?
 
And if the OP wants the best then go with Hach or one of the other lab grade test makers. You can at least do better with the Hach test strips.
 
This article might interest folks: http/www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/4/review it is entitled "Product Review: Hach’s 'Test Strips' for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Total Hardness, and the Digital Titrator"
" How reliable are the results of ‘test strips’? Is there any advantage in using them? On the other hand, what of the precise results offered by Hach’s Digital Titrator – Is the precision worth the price?"
 
This article looks at the Hach test strips which are probably as accurate or moreso than most hobby kits. The resuls are compared to more accurate means of measuring offered by Hach. You can get info on Hach Strips here http/www.hach.com/test-strips/test-strips/family?productCategoryId=22219784717
 
As for the list being what he needs or wants, I am not so sure. TDS and conductivity are essentially the same thing, so why would one want both? And many meters which might read these things often give readings for both. However, a TDS meter merely measures for conductivity and then converts the reading to TDS. So there is no real difference. There is rarely a need for most folks to have or use either a GH or KK kit when plants are not involved, especially if you have a conductivity or TDS meter.
 
In fact, I am curious for anyone to explain here exactly why, if one keeps typical fw tanks, why there is a need for one to have on hand any of the following kits, especially if they do no serious plant (more than a few low light plants that is):
 
phosphate 
KH
GH
Iron 
chlorine (I think maybe he might have meant chloride?)
C02
calcium
magnesium 
tds/conductivity
 
Oh yes, in the first post the list has phosphate twice, once with a small p and once with a capital P

I even answered it twice and only just noticed that now

 

[TheFishCellar]

i need most of the more unusual test because i make my own ro water (400l per day) and i add nutrients into the water myself  so that's why i need ;
 
calcium - added in my mineral mix
magnesium - added in my mineral mix
chloride (only used once a month to test when the ro filter needs replacing)  and yes i did mean chloride LOL
iron - for certain planted tanks (mainly one that isn't mine haha)
tds witch was supposed to be on the same line as conductivity - again ro and to stop fish eating eggs
c02 - for tanks with a low ph of 3 - 4
kh & gh - practically determines my ph 
 
 
ill look in to the  Seachem Multitest kit but are the lab grade kits worth it ? how much more accuracy do they offer? 
 this is going to be testing in my fish room so the more test they offer the better haha thanks for the suggestions i'm looking at all of them and the api if its any good,seem to offer a decent range as the do jbl thanks for all recomedations  guys and keep em coming haha

 

[Byron]

 

And if one cannot or does not want to use EI, what are your suggestions for them to know when things may be missing or in excess supply. Or how about what is already in your tap? How will the EI method let you know you have a bunch of iron in your tap water or what level of other things it might contain. What if you need to adjust the EI method to allow for your tap parameters? And then what if your tap parameters change with time?

 
The EI guys will tell you it doesn't matter.  The point of EI is to have an excess of nutrients and most of them couldn't give two figs what is already in your water supply.  I got lambasted for trying to adjust my EI dosing schedule to account for what's in my water supply.  Those guys really don't care if you overdose.  They'll tell you how they've run tanks at 2x, 3x, 5x or more times the recommended EI dosing and that it's perfectly safe.  

 

This is why I have issues with EI and won't use it.  Most of those planted tank folks keep tanks of aquatic plants that have few or no fish.  So naturally it doesn't matter as much if you are adding more of this or that; but this can matter a great deal to fish.  All of my tanks are planted, and have been for 25+ years now.  But I have fish tanks that have plants in them, which is a very different approach.
 
Byron.

 

[Byron]

i need most of the more unusual test because i make my own ro water (400l per day) and i add nutrients into the water myself  so that's why i need ;
 
calcium - added in my mineral mix
magnesium - added in my mineral mix
chloride (only used once a month to test when the ro filter needs replacing)  and yes i did mean chloride LOL
iron - for certain planted tanks (mainly one that isn't mine haha)
tds witch was supposed to be on the same line as conductivity - again ro and to stop fish eating eggs
c02 - for tanks with a low ph of 3 - 4
kh & gh - practically determines my ph 
 
 
ill look in to the  Seachem Multitest kit but are the lab grade kits worth it ? how much more accuracy do they offer? 
 this is going to be testing in my fish room so the more test they offer the better haha thanks for the suggestions i'm looking at all of them and the api if its any good,seem to offer a decent range as the do jbl thanks for all recomedations  guys and keep em coming haha

Just a suggestion, but perhaps it would be easier (and likely safer) to use a complete preparation?  It would remove the guesswork and the need for so many tests.  I don't know which fish species, or what plant species, but as I am sure you know (so don't take this the wrong way please) not all fish need minerals, and plants can be different depending upon the species and light.
 
I use Seachem's Equilibrium to supplement the hard minerals solely for my plants, and I raise the GH from zero (in the source water) up to 4 or 5 dGH in three tanks but not in the others which have different plants not requiring this addition.  This then allows me to dose the liquid comprehensive and trace amounts as a minimal supplement.  Seachem also has a liquid now, in their newer AquaVitro line.  And Brightwell Aquatics has a near-identical product in their line.  I like using these because they are adding the proper amounts and I do not need to be testing for this and that (which I tried many years ago and became horribly confused over 

 ).
 
If you need the mineral for the fish, being those requiring moderately hard or harder water, Seachem's Replenish can work, although here I would go the less expensive route with a calcareous substrate material in the filter or the substrate.
 
Byron.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

TFC- your reply makes sense, But I would say if we found 999 fish keepers at random and you, maybe one or two the 1,000 might be doing what you do. It is not typical. Most folks who use ro or ro/di either cut it into their tap and that is it or else they use a premade mix like Byron mentioned. So far you are proving my point that these kits are not needed my most. For the vast majority of fish keepers the needed tests are ammonia, nitrite and pH. Most hobbyists can rely on the lfs/lps for the few other tests. they might need
 
Now its funny about the co2 test. I have run a tank intentionally at 4.2 pH and used ro/di and muriatic acid. No co2 involved. But if you need to monitor co2 for plants, a drop checker is likely better, and a pH controller would be even better if you are pushing gas. I stopped testing my GH or KH when I got my TDS meter. I tried pH testers but the affordable ones are too flakey for regular use imo, so I went with a continuous monitor. I am not a fan of test kits for the most part, they have their place as long as one knows their short comings.
 
But when I do a dry mix, its all calculated by a formula and dry weight. I don't test, I use a scale accurate to 1/10 of a gram and just weigh everything. I trust the scale much more than any hobby test kit. I use this mix which I use 50/50 With tropica itself as the mix alones is not good enough http/www.aquascapingworld.com/threads/diy-tropica-master-grow.3831/ But i do not test for anything in that mix. I measure, mix and use it.
 
Do you not trust your formula or the quality of your dry chemicals? I know its a lot easier to weigh than to test in terms of the potential for making a mistake. Once you have your formula, you can mix up a batch of a complete dry mix, mix it well and then just add that- i.e make your own all-in-one dry mix. The you can just add the correct amount of your dry mix to a predetermined volume of distilled (or ro/di) water. This is surely much easier than ingredient by ingredient and test by test is it not?
 
But if you are adding all those things to your water what about the trace stuff you are leaving out? Copper, Molybdenum, Zinc, Boron, Manganese these things are needed by plants and some by fish. How are you testing for those? Here is what the Equilibrium Byron mentioned contains:

Soluble Potassium (K20)

23.0%​

Calcium (Ca)

8.06%​

Magnesium (Mg)

2.41%​

Soluble Iron (Fe)

0.11%​

Soluble Manganese (Mn)

0.06%​

 
SeaChem offers a copper and phosphate test and their reef line has one for calcium. Salifert makes a host of kits for saltwater which test for things like boron, magnesium, copper,calcium and phosphate.

 

[daizeUK]

But what about all those folks with plants who do not use the EI method? Lets just forget about them?

I originally asked a question about whether any plant experts recommend testing for these parameters. I don't really know much about other methods than EI so I was seeking information, not intending to start an argument about EI vs other methods. My knowledge is pretty limited to EI which tells me that testing for nutrients is inaccurate and unnecessary because it's difficult to control nutrient levels even if you somehow happened to know what the perfect nutrient levels are for your tank. I was hoping you'd explain your reasons for believing differently but I think you've misunderstood my intention.
 

This is why I have issues with EI and won't use it.  Most of those planted tank folks keep tanks of aquatic plants that have few or no fish.  So naturally it doesn't matter as much if you are adding more of this or that; but this can matter a great deal to fish.  All of my tanks are planted, and have been for 25+ years now.  But I have fish tanks that have plants in them, which is a very different approach.
 
Byron.

Don't get me wrong, I don't agree with those guys and neither does Tom Barr. The point of EI is to ensure that no nutrient is deficient and not to worry if there are a few too many nutrients as long as there are enough - but a few vocal proponents are taking that ethos too far and being a bit irresponsible with it, IMO.

Anyway I won't discuss anymore in this thread as the OP is clearly not interested in plant fertilisation regimes - my apologies to him for the detour!