Cichlid hiding!?!?!?

[Colin_T]

The yellow fish in the picture appears to be looking for oxygen or somewhere to hide. Make sure its not being bullied and watch the temperature. Rift Lake cichlids don't like hot water so don't let the temp go above 30C (86F). However, you do need the water to be on 30C (86F) to kill the whitespot.

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However, if it's related to the cichlid tank with Ich, then stay with the current thread so we have the background history of the tank.

 

[Demeter32]

No, he might be lacking O2 or hiding. Warmer water lowers the level of O2 which is why added surface agitation is needed. I've got a female doing something similar but that's because she's holding fry at the moment and wants to keep away from the others.

When cycling a tank (fresh or salt water), it must complete a specific set of steps. First ammonia must build up in the tank, then bacteria will start colonizing and breaking down the ammonia into nitrites, then as that builds up another type of bacteria colonizes the filter media and breaks down the nitrites into nitrates, the end product of the Nitrogen Cycle. Nitrates must then be removed by us via water changes. Keeping them below 30 (as low as possible really) keeps the fish healthy. Water changes also replenish dissolved minerals in the water that fish need as well as removes other fish contaminates (hormones and such). Cycling can take anywhere from a few weeks to a couple months, depending on if you seed the tank beforehand or not. You can add ammonia yourself to a fishless tank and cycle it that way, or some people prefer to cycle tanks with the fish still in it. A fish-in cycle isn't very easy on the fish, many times they get sick and die.

Can you post the number results for the tests? Test strips aren't all that accurate, they're fine for a quick look at parameters but the liquid test kits (API master test kit being one) are perhaps the most accurate.

 

[seangee]

Do you have a pic of the whole tank? I agree with what the others have said about oxygen but Colin makes a good point. That spot has 3 walls so he could be using it as a "cave" to feel more secure.

 

[Ericag90]

I don’t think o2 is a factor I have 2 airstones going which is right under him....as for the actual numbers I need to go get that api liquid test kit today and also take the dead fish back because he was still under warrenty. I have taken 2 samples of my water to the store and they are saying it is good everytime! I did try to take a picture of the entire tank but it keeps telling me the picture is too big for the server.

 

[Ericag90]

Here we go

 

[Ericag90]

I am planning on getting some plant potters today for more hiding spots! I have to admit I never thought I’d fall in love with fishy’s but holy **** am I hooked

 

[Colin_T]

When you get the water tested at the petshop, write the results down on a piece of paper and post them here. We want ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH & GH (general hardness). I don't care about KH (carbonate hardness) but if they test that post it as well.

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Do you have a blue ram in the tank? if yes watch the yellow cichlid when it gets bigger. And depending on your water chemistry, you might need to rehome either the ram or the yellow cichlid because they require completely different water chemistry.

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Your plants can be put into bigger pots. You can use a 1 litre (1/4 gallon) plastic icecream container for this, or any other small plastic container. Put an inch of gravel in the bottom of the container. Then put a thin layer of granulated garden fertiliser over the gravel. Put a 1/4inch layer of red clay (that is dry and has been crushed into a powder) over the fertiliser. Then fill the container with more gravel. Plant the plant in the gravel and as the roots grow down they reach the clay and fertiliser and take off. The clay stops the fertiliser leaching into the water.
Don't use a container with holes in for this, just a small plastic container that will hold water.

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Don't buy any more fish when at the shop. I know what people are like, they go to the shop for a water test and come back with more fish Water test first and post results, wait for the whitespot issue to settle, and then we can discuss adding more fish

If you do see fish at the shop that you like, write their names down and post them with the water test results and we can say yay or nay to getting them later on.

 

[Ericag90]

Haha you must know me! No I have lost 4 now and when I returned the peacocks I said no more until we figure out what is going on!!! But I will surely do all of that for you! The plants I actually removed because they were browning. I will be getting new ones today as well...by no more fish! And yes I have 2 rams and 3 yellows

 

[Colin_T]

The yellow one looks like an African Rift Lake cichlid (an mbuna cichlid). They require hard alkaline water, whereas the rams require soft slightly acid water. Rams grow to about 2 inches and are relatively peaceful but the Rift Lake cichlids grow to 4-6inches and are some of the most aggressive aquarium fish there are.

If you had peacock cichlids and they died, then your water is probably soft and acid, because peacock cichlids come from African Rift Lakes too. If your water is soft and acid it could be part of the reason your blue fish was hiding and going dark, and why the yellow one is up by the surface in the air bubbles.

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Good Aquarium plants to try include: Ambulia, Hygrophilla polysperma & ruba, Ludwigia natans, narrow Vallis, common Amazon Swordplant, and Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides). The Water Sprite floats or can be planted in the substrate, but the other plants all get planted in the gravel.

The 2 plants in your tank picture appear to be swordplants, the one on the left looks like a Radican Swordplant and the one in the back right corner looks like a common Amazon Swordplant. If they are swordplants and went brown that could indicate lack of light or the plants were grown out of water and their terrestrial leaves rotted. New leaves usually grow back if that happens.

Do you have another light on the tank? In the most recent picture showing the entire tank, the left half looks dull. If there is not enough light on the tank the plants might not do that well.
How long are the tank lights on for?

 

[Ericag90]

I was told the yellow ones were electric something I believe??? I’ll have to check into that today when I go to the store....as for the plants yes they were amazon swords and I didn’t realize I had to actually plant them until they turned brown and I looked them up and it said they will not produce new leaves so I threw them out because it also said when they turn beep to remove them ASAP. As for light I only have light on one side of the tank....should I add another? I usually keep the light on for 8-10 hours a day

 

[thrujenseyes]

Hello! The tank was empty for close to a month! Added the goldfish first and the. The chiclids after it cycled. I have the strips and everything is testing great....

The tank did not "cycle". And it can't really be testing "great" had never been cycled and with all of these water changes and medications.

If you could put these test results that would help us a lot to better help you in what to do.

Also was told by the place I bought the fish that only saltwater tanks needed cycled for more than a month? Was I told the wrong info? I did do plenty of research but I like real facts and not google facts

That is completely incorrect and there are very very few fish store employees that actually know what they're talking about. They just want to sell you merchandise and send you on your way.
And "real facts" are most of the time "google facts" if you're looking in the correct places. Places like here where you came for help which is the right thing to do.

I had Demeter32 come over to your thread to offer his help to you because he is an expert in Africans, please use him as a reference and follow his advice.
You're worrying about the wrong things right now, or well, at least worrying about things in the wrong order.

First order is to get that water where it needs to be.
We need to see your parameters and then go from there.

Good Luck

 

[seangee]

Remember that plants can take time to acclimatise to their new environment. Usualy 2-3 weeks is enough so don't give up on them too soon. Nipping off the brown leaves will make them grow better and encourage new growth. Use your fingernails and take them off as close to the root as possible (ok scissors if you must). Amazon swords don't need much light, but will grow faster with more.

 

[Colin_T]

There is a cichlid called an "electric yellow", which is quite peaceful for a Rift Lake cichlid but they still need hard alkaline water.

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How tall is the tank and what wattage is the light globe?
You might be able to get away with one light and just have it on for a few hours longer. However, until you get more plants there is no point increasing the photo period.

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If you get new plants, try to get them from tanks without fish in. If you get plants from tanks with fish in, you could introduce another disease. You can remove the plants form their pots and wash them under the tap to help remove most diseases, then plant them in new pots, as described above.

 

[Ericag90]

Tank is about 1 ft 9 in Tall wattage is 15

 

[Ericag90]

Any idea on what this guy is?