White Spot - Death Everywhere - Help!

bobpatel

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Hi

This is my first message ever so please forgive me for any mistakes or technical inaccuracies. I have cycled my tank 100 litres, no ammonia or nitrites.

Last week I bought 11 Neon tetras, 2 female guppie, 1 male guppy, 2 lyetail mollies, within a week i have lost 6 Neons, 1 female guppy (who gave birth before she died) and a molly. I have since noticed a outbreak of whitespot on most of the fish.

I have seperated the baby guppies into a breeding tank within the big tank but cannot see any white spot on them as they are too small. What do I do?
 
Hi

This is my first message ever so please forgive me for any mistakes or technical inaccuracies. I have cycled my tank 100 litres, no ammonia or nitrites.

Last week I bought 11 Neon tetras, 2 female guppie, 1 male guppy, 2 lyetail mollies, within a week i have lost 6 Neons, 1 female guppy (who gave birth before she died) and a molly. I have since noticed a outbreak of whitespot on most of the fish.

I have seperated the baby guppies into a breeding tank within the big tank but cannot see any white spot on them as they are too small. What do I do?

did you add all of those fishes at the same time?
 
HI Ijay

No I bought the neons first, last Thursday from lfc and then the guppies and the mollies and the day after from 'Pets at home' petstore.
 
HI Ijay

No I bought the neons first, last Thursday from lfc and then the guppies and the mollies and the day after from 'Pets at home' petstore.

it is not recommended to put too many fish at only days interval.
they either already got it when you bought them or got stressed when you introduce them in your tank.
try treating with anti-bacterial medications.
 
Cheers mate


I've also been told to turn the heat up a bit, does this help?
 
Hi all

Seems to me like a number of things.

1) Tank might not be fully cycled.
2) Over feeding maybe
3) More likely this one, entered too many fish at once
4) Also this, I don't reccomend buying fish from pets at home, very poor shop and also more than likely had white spot when you bought it.

As said above use the chemical, it could take around 1 week but will more than likely kill off your plants and also it sometimes gets a little worse before it gets better.... It's a 50/50 thing white spot, it either goes or it doesn't.

Hope this helps
 
Cheers mate


I've also been told to turn the heat up a bit, does this help?


Yes higher heat kills the bacteria that causes white spot 'ich' so knock it up to about 26 degrees for a couple of days. Personally i've got mine on 26-27 degrees (celsius) all the time and i've never had white spot since for a long time now. i'll turn it down a bit o the summar of course but for now they're happy cichlids.

Get the Rid Ich and turn the heat up, magic mate, good luck! :good: 8)
 
OK, just to clarify something: your probably fish didn't die from the whitespot. Whitespot rarely kills fish quickly. What it does is irritate the gill membranes (among other things) and this, over time, can lead to suffocation and death. However, to go from infection to death takes weeks probably, and if you treat the tank, there's no chance of that happening. Whitespot is perhaps best thought of as the pneumonia for fish, potentially serious, but if treated, no big deal.

Right. With that out the way, assuming your fish did not have whitespot for weeks (and didn't look like they had been dipped in sugar) the question is what killed the fish.

My guess would be the immature tank. Cycling a tank is identical with having a mature aquarium. There's something difficult to describe about established tanks, but basically they have a certain inertia that prevents problems. Most fish fatalities are in tanks that are a few weeks old. Hence, even in a cycled tank, I'd recommend only using hardy fish to begin with. Livebearers are good, so are the cheaper Corydoras, kuhli loaches, rainbowfish, and a few others. Neons aren't hardy really. They may have been once, but...

Neon Tetra Disease! This is an incurable free gift with virtually every cheap (i.e., not wild caught) neon sold. It will infect a few other fish, but it is best known in neons and cardinals. Basically one gets sick, dies, and then a few days later another, and so on until they're all gone. Symptoms include loss of colour, swimming away from the school, hiding a lot, and not eating.

NTD is transmitted when one fish nibbles the corpse of another. It is ESSENTIAL to remove (and destroy) sick fish at once. It cannot reliably be cured, so at the very least, remove the sick fish to a quarantine tank and treat with Octozin there if you want. Removing sick fish is the ONLY way to break the cycle and stop the disease.

So, between NTD and an immature tank, I think neons are a bad choice. Stick with other hardy fish for at least a few more weeks, and then try neons again. Actually, save your money and buy cardinals. They seem to be hardier. Of course only buy from a shop that has a good selection of healthy fish, and carries out basic quarantine and health measures (e.g., removing dead fish, sterilising nets between use). Chain pet stores are usually rubbish in this regard.

Finally, check your water pH and hardness. Neons and cardinals are never easy to keep in hard, alkaline water and are invariable short lived. They should last 4 years. If you have hard water, stick to livebearers, rainbowfish, and hardwater killifish. Your life will be so much easier.

Cheers,

Neale

PS. Turning the heat up speeds the whitespot parasite life cycle, and so gets the cure done faster. In theory at least, but to be honest in tropical aquaria the difference between 24 C and 28 C is not that great. It does make a big difference with coldwater fish though.
 
Hi

Thanks for all the help everyone, please check this post out again in a few days for the results, fingers crossed till then
 
OK, just to clarify something: your probably fish didn't die from the whitespot. Whitespot rarely kills fish quickly. What it does is irritate the gill membranes (among other things) and this, over time, can lead to suffocation and death. However, to go from infection to death takes weeks probably, and if you treat the tank, there's no chance of that happening. Whitespot is perhaps best thought of as the pneumonia for fish, potentially serious, but if treated, no big deal.

Right. With that out the way, assuming your fish did not have whitespot for weeks (and didn't look like they had been dipped in sugar) the question is what killed the fish.

My guess would be the immature tank. Cycling a tank is identical with having a mature aquarium. There's something difficult to describe about established tanks, but basically they have a certain inertia that prevents problems. Most fish fatalities are in tanks that are a few weeks old. Hence, even in a cycled tank, I'd recommend only using hardy fish to begin with. Livebearers are good, so are the cheaper Corydoras, kuhli loaches, rainbowfish, and a few others. Neons aren't hardy really. They may have been once, but...

Neon Tetra Disease! This is an incurable free gift with virtually every cheap (i.e., not wild caught) neon sold. It will infect a few other fish, but it is best known in neons and cardinals. Basically one gets sick, dies, and then a few days later another, and so on until they're all gone. Symptoms include loss of colour, swimming away from the school, hiding a lot, and not eating.

NTD is transmitted when one fish nibbles the corpse of another. It is ESSENTIAL to remove (and destroy) sick fish at once. It cannot reliably be cured, so at the very least, remove the sick fish to a quarantine tank and treat with Octozin there if you want. Removing sick fish is the ONLY way to break the cycle and stop the disease.

So, between NTD and an immature tank, I think neons are a bad choice. Stick with other hardy fish for at least a few more weeks, and then try neons again. Actually, save your money and buy cardinals. They seem to be hardier. Of course only buy from a shop that has a good selection of healthy fish, and carries out basic quarantine and health measures (e.g., removing dead fish, sterilising nets between use). Chain pet stores are usually rubbish in this regard.

Finally, check your water pH and hardness. Neons and cardinals are never easy to keep in hard, alkaline water and are invariable short lived. They should last 4 years. If you have hard water, stick to livebearers, rainbowfish, and hardwater killifish. Your life will be so much easier.

Cheers,

Neale

PS. Turning the heat up speeds the whitespot parasite life cycle, and so gets the cure done faster. In theory at least, but to be honest in tropical aquaria the difference between 24 C and 28 C is not that great. It does make a big difference with coldwater fish though.


Hi Neale

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Ph - 7.0
Temp - now 29 C

Are these stats o.k
 
Hi Neale

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Ph - 7.0
Temp - now 29 C

Are these stats o.k

Stats aren't everything. As I said, once a tank has aged, for no reason I can fathom, problems like disease become less common. Possibly it's the fishkeeper who gets better at spotting problems, maybe the fish simply get adapt to their home better. I don't know. So while nitrites and everything else are worth measuring, you also need to watch the fish, and be alert to problems. Think about gardening or raising children. Yes, books help, but there's also a "knack" that comes with experience.

Be that as it may, your pH should be fine for neons and cardinals, but a bit low for guppies and platies and such. Basically, barbs and tetras, pH 6.0 to 7.0, livebearers and rainbowfish, pH 7.5 to 8.0. As you will immediately see, what is good for one type is bad for the other. Guppies sometimes do okay in neutral water, but mollies invariably get sick, and platies and swordtails more often than not. Ideally, don't try and keep them together, concentrate on either tetras or livebearers.

Cheers,

Neale

PS. Be 100% sure you have removed any carbon from the filter. It will adsorb any medicine you use, preventing the medicine from working. I've made this mistake, and wondered why the whitespot wouldn't go away. For some reason carbon (and carbon impregnated sponges and such) are in many filters by default. Assuming you do regular water changes, in my personal opinion, you don't need carbon at all. It's used for adsorbing unwanted organic compounds, and beyond that doesn't serve much purpose.
 

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