Which Eheim Filter Do I Need?

[RinaLane]

Moving on from light to canister filters. I want canister filter. With media slots. I fell in love with looks of Eheim's filters. But which one do I need to buy for 75G tank with future discus fish & decent ammount of plants? I understood that seria ECO isn't great & last seria with USB is too pricey for me.
 
And also I'm going to order one from amazon do they come with media included or I need to buy it seperatly? I cant figure out how they determine for which size of tank their models are...  Price wise I like #2073 & #2074 but is they for very small tanks? Or shuld I save up for Eheim Professional 3e? Whats the difference?
I heard that I need to make water flow thru filted x5 times more than all ammount of water I have in tank is it valid?
 
Thank you for replies in advance
 

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Relative to Eheims-
 
I bought my first one in 2002, it was the Pro II 2026. The had an initial issue with these for which they quickly offered a fix. This filter was on my high tech planted50 gal.  tank and it doubled as my co2 diffuser. In fact I picked Eheim specifically because I felt it could handle having gas pushed through it. I took that tank apart in 2013 and converted ot to a pleco breeding tank, That Eheim is now on a 75 gal. pleco breedingtank12+ years later and running well. I, bought a 2nd 2026 soon after and it has been running on a 75 gal for almost as long. (That tank has 2 other filters.) The Pro II line was replaced by the Pro 3 some years back. Last summer I purchased on Ebay another 2 of the 2026s NIB and a 2028 as well. They will go into use sometime this year.
 
My initial media load used the standard Eheim media- noodles, substrat and the pads. After a while I removed the noodles from one and replaced them with sponges. However, after 14 years I am revising my approach to filtration. The three new Pro IIs will all be loaded with only one form of media- Poret foam. The first basket in the flow will get their 10 ppi foam and all the rest will have 20 ppi foam. These filters should only need cleaning once every year or two. The foam should last 10 years or more. I am also replacing hang ons with Matten Filters. You can see the Poret info and some great filtration info there as well http/www.swisstropicals.com/filtration-shop/ poke around and read the Bio-Filtration article and the Matten Filter one as well.
 
I cannot help with a hands on review of how the Eheim 3 series works, but Eheim mostly makes very good things.
 
Filtration works best with slower flow rates than you will be told on most sites. That is because in many tanks the filter is also the circulation pump and the source of gas exchange in a tank. It is asked to do several jobs in one. The result is the flow is too strong for ideal filtration and the size is too small because the more bio-media one can have the better. This is also the strength of good canisters. Their flow is slower and the amount of media they can hold is greater than internals and hang ones. Only a sump has greater potential media capacity. For the casual hobbyists with a single smaller tank, none of this will matter. It is easier to rinse media, change water and swap out floss and that will work just fine. But when the tank sizes and number of them increases, the work and cost can become a PITA.
 
I was going to make some specific suggestions re Eheim models and tried to go to the Eheim USA site. It currently does not exist. After a bit of effort I contacted their North American parts department to see if they could give me a good URL and i was told the above. I just sent a rather scathing email to Eheim about this issue and pointed out it was costing them sales and reputation. The best I can offer is to give you their phone number as they said they can send out catalogues or provide pdf links to specific filters and answer questions: 1-888-343-4662 between 10AM and 5PM EST Monday - Friday. I had a nice chat with them and the gent with whom I spoke said is going to visit the Swiss Tropicals site on his lunch break. He indicated they are happy to field calls related to sales and product info.
 
One last note, I have used the standard Eheim media for many years and is has worked fine, My changes are because I am a bit of a nut on this stuff and I want to do even better and also to reduce the work I must do to keep tanks in good shape.

 

[Byron]

I am with TTA here, with one possible exception that I will mention in a moment.  But on Eheim, I have had two Eheim Pro II canisters in operation continuously since I bought them in 1996 and 1998, and they have never given me trouble.  Eheim is more expensive, but the performance and reliability speak for themselves.  I originally used the Eheim hard media, but now use Fluval which is 1/3 the cost and it works fine; hard media refers to the ceramic disks and the biological rock-like media.  There are of course also the pads, and here I do use Eheim as they fit; I replace the white pad at every cleaning simply because rinsing it out is very tiresome and usually it gets out of shape so it really doesn't fit properly.  You can buy the pads individually in a box of three.
 
I have planted tanks, and it is my view that filtration in planted tanks is a bit different from non-planted tanks.  There are three types of filtration, mechanical, biological and chemical.  All filters do mechanical, which is simply running the tank water through media (especially the pads) to remove suspended particulate matter; this keeps the water clear (as opposed to "clean") and it provides the circulation throughout the tank.  Biological filtration involves the colonization of media by nitrifying bacteria; this is less important with plants as they do this job very well.  Any filter media will perform biological filtration, as indeed occurs throughout the aquarium on every surface covered by water.  The point with planted tanks is that you do not need excessive biological filtration from filters because this is in competition with the plants.  Chemical filtration involves the use of media such as carbon to remove substances from the water; one can find various types of chemical media designed to remove this and that, but invariably these will remove substances that are required by plants.  Chemical filtration is not required in a planted tank, except after using some medications as carbon will help to remove these from the water.
 
When selecting a canister filter, I get the filter size that is recommended for the tank size.  Most manufacturers will say this this filter is rated for tanks up to "x" gallons, or similar.  This is all I have ever used.  In most cases, the flow rate will be suited to the tank, and here I am talking of current and water turnover.  As TTA has noted, the perception that more turnover or faster flow is somehow better filtration is another myth of the hobby.  After all, one can have a very healthy and thriving tank with fish and plants and no filter at all.  Water movement via a filter is good to have though, but just don't overdo it or it becomes a detriment rather than a benefit.  Water current affects fish; some need current, some do not, and the benefit of a canister with a spray bar (that can be removed too) is a happy medium for most fish.  In a planted tank, you are not likely to be keeping fish that require a rapids, and discus are fish that must have quiet water anyway.
 
Another issue is heat, and my last acquired Eheim has a built-in heating unit.  This avoids having heaters hanging in the aquarium (and you would need two for the size tank you are considering).  But aside from this, my 90g tank with the Eheim filter/heating unit has been the most stable in terms of temperature ever since I connected the filter in 1998.  It is set at 24.5 C (= 76 F), and the tank temperature has never varied by more than a couple of decimal points, i.e., less than one degree.  The water is heated as it passes through the filter, so there is uniform heating unlike anything you can achieve with hanging heaters.  Something to consider.  The additional cost of the heating unit probably corresponds to the cost of two good-quality heaters, and heating is one place not to go cheap.  Filters can stop, lights can fail, and the fish will be fine...but a faulty heater can kill a tank of fish within hours overnight.
 
Byron.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Lets add two more considerations here. A Matten filter needs no mechanical filtration as this is handled by other microorganisms living in the media. That is why I will go 100% poret in those 3  new Eheims. There are bacteria which will completely break down mechanical waste. The gunk we all rinse out of media or throw out in floss is their food. Mechanical and bio filtration become one. In the natural world there is no floss in the substrate or banks of rivers. Nobody rinses them out, yet unless man mucks things up, filtration is 100% natural. Doing this in a tank requires more media, slow flow and results in water as clean and works loads much less than in the average tank. Imagine only rinsing your media once every year or two and still having crystal clear water and no nitrate issues.
 
With well planted tanks a lot of nature can be replicated, but not always all of it. Even if one needs minimal media for the nitrifiers, there are other bacteria and microorganisms which will live in ones filter media that do contribute to clean healthy water.
 
Next, I understand the convenience angle of in filter heaters. But there is a downside. Where the heater goes, the media cannot- less room. My preference has been to use inline heaters. They do the same job and just as well, but they are not a part of the filter. It costs a bit more, but I feel its worth it.
 
And for those tanks not well planted, big media properly set up is the single best option when it can be done. Of my current 15 running tanks, 9 have no plants and 5 have no substrate.

 

[RinaLane]

Thank you for your replies

I thought about 1 with heater but I already have 2 in my tank (and 2 extra just in case). So all I want is actual filter

 
I found Eheim 2073 93G Ultra G 90 Pro 3 w/ Media Canister Filter can I use it on 75G tank?

 

[Byron]

Thank you for your replies

I thought about 1 with heater but I already have 2 in my tank (and 2 extra just in case). So all I want is actual filter

 
I found Eheim 2073 93G Ultra G 90 Pro 3 w/ Media Canister Filter can I use it on 75G tank?

 
Yes, that model is rated for up to 95 gallons.  Took some searching, but I found some data here:
http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=14672&utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&utm_content=Default
 
Just a comment on setting this (or any canister) up.  You want the filter intake at one end of the tank and the filter return at the opposite.  So the filter itself sits under the tank or off to one side.  The hose with this one is 9 feet so that will work.  Then your heaters will hang one next to the filter intake and one next to the return.  This creates a stream-type flow down the tank which is natural and provides good water circulation.
 
Byron.

 

[RinaLane]

Sounds as I imagine it   Thank you

 

[NickAu]

 
Just a comment on setting this (or any canister) up.  You want the filter intake at one end of the tank and the filter return at the opposite.  So the filter itself sits under the tank or off to one side.  The hose with this one is 9 feet so that will work.  Then your heaters will hang one next to the filter intake and one next to the return.  This creates a stream-type flow down the tank which is natural and provides good water circulation.

Thanks for that advice.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I have always positioned my canisters such that the intake side will have a long hose but the return side will have a much shorter one. I do this because I feel that gravity helps on the intake end, while the shorter the return hose is, the less water volume/weight the pump has to lift to return water to the tank. This should insure the maximum potential flow rate for any given head height.

 

[RinaLane]

Last question: do I need to buy a sponge for intake part? If yes what kind will fit eheim?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

It really depends on how you wish to approach filtration. So I can answer your question both yes and no.
 
For years I have used pre-filters on filter intakes and filter floss in most filters as well. it is important to clean a pre-filter weekly, sometimes more often. If they become clogged, it slows the intake flow and this is one of the best ways to destroy a filter. The proper method is to slow the return side of things. Moreover, filter floss is designed to clog. As it does it reduces flow through the filter and it also kills off a lot of the bacteria which makes the mistake of trying to live in the floss.
 
There is another way to approach filtration and I am transitioning my setups. To understand what I am talking about I would refer you to the Swiss tropicals site. This company is owned by a practicing Ph.D. microbiologist and lifelong fish keeper. I would suggest you read two articles on his site to understand what I am talking about here.
http/www.swisstropicals.com/library/aquarium-biofiltration/
http/www.swisstropicals.com/library/mattenfilter/
 
I have begun the process by switching from more traditional sponge filters to Poret foams and to begin replacing other sponges and hangons with Matten filters, As part of this switchover I have several new tanks going up which will have Eheim canisters which will only contain Poret foam, no floss, no Eheim noodles, substrate or pads as my current canisters have. I expect to gain two things from this change. Reducing the workload when doing tank maintenance and greatly increasing the efficiency and scope of my filtration. I expect cleaner water and to have a greater variety of bacteria and microorganisms to include those breaking down waste and those doing denitrification.
 
However, I have run filters in the traditional manner for years and done my media cleaning, vacuuming etc. and changed 40-50% of the water weekly and it works fine. So there is no reason one cannot do things this way. I expect to keep up with the vacuuming and water changes but will no longer regularly be cleaning pre-filters, changing floss or rinsing bio-media except for every year or two in most cases. With 15 tanks and 42 assorted filters (sponges, hang-ons and canisters) this matters.

 

[RinaLane]

I red about Poret material for a while. It says maximum temperature you can put it in is 80 but with discus fish I would have to go up to 84. Will it won't work then?

 

[RinaLane]

 
 
My initial media load used the standard Eheim media- noodles, substrat and the pads. After a while I removed the noodles from one and replaced them with sponges. However, after 14 years I am revising my approach to filtration. The three new Pro IIs will all be loaded with only one form of media- Poret foam. The first basket in the flow will get their 10 ppi foam and all the rest will have 20 ppi foam. These filters should only need cleaning once every year or two. The foam should last 10 years or more. I am also replacing hang ons with Matten Filters. You can see the Poret info and some great filtration info there as well http/www.swisstropicals.com/filtration-shop/ poke around and read the Bio-Filtration article and the Matten Filter one as well.
 
 
 

What will you put on the buttom under the actual baskets. I see there is some space left should it be foam too or leave it empty? Also since I just got my new Eheim & didnt plug it in yet (still waiting on my prefilter thingy) should I go ahead & switch it to Poret foam too? I want the best quality of water for my future discus. And poret seems really doing its job by the videos I watched on youtube

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Nothing goes under the baskets.
 
If you are going to go the Poret route, you need to change how you load the filter. The first, and hardest, tradition to break is the use of floss pads. Do not use either the blue and especially the white one.
 
Next, the first basket in the flow through should be loaded with the 10 PPI foam. All other baskets should then be loaded with the 20 PPI foam.
 
The foam can be cut to any shape/size needed. I have just set up my 2nd Matten Filter and for both had to trim the foam blocks. I used a long sharp carving knife that I run through the sharpener to get a good edge. When you cut to size you need to leave a bit of excess over the measurements so the foam is pressed against the basket sides to prevent any flow around. You do not want to compress to foam any more than it takes to make it snug.
 
I am not sure which tank I will tackle next- the one getting a pair of Eheims loaded with Poret or the one getting the sump also all Poret.
 
The neat thing about the setup you are contemplating is that your filter should only need to have the media cleaned once every year or two (when the flow is finally slowed). In addition, the foams should hold up for a decade or more.
 
Lastly, Dr. Tanner is a nice gent. He is willing to answer questions and give advice on how best to set things up. And considering he is a Ph.D. microbiologist and lifelong fish keeper, its almost impossible to find better information on biological filtration. If you start to poke around the Swiss Tropicals site, I suggest you check out the Links page. It will send you to some pretty good sites on all sorts of fish related topics.

 

[RinaLane]

It's my 1st canister filter ever I have no traditions to break yet. So this part is easy
The 1st basket with 10ppl is from top or from buttom? I don't know yet which way my flow goes >< I'm assuming it goes from top to buttom by tube & then goes up thru baskets. So there is 2 inch space on buttom won't get clugged in with mock & stuff?
Also will the Poret do biological filtration? Which suppose to break up ammonia? I heard the opinion that foam is doing only mechanical filtration is it true?
Cleaning once a year is great but I worry about water quality too