What Kind Of Algae Is This And Do I Need To Do Anything With This?

[hudsona85]

Started noticing a week or so ago this algae (if that is what it is) growing on my rock and my plant. Any idea as to what it is and if there is a need to do anything about? Not meaning to sound like an idiot but not sure if there such a thing as good vs bad algae? The tank is 55gal with 36" Marineland LED strip light system with a timer.
 

 

 

[Akasha72]

it's just algae ... nothing to worry about. All natural occurances in an underwater system. 

 

[Byron]

Agree.  There really is no "bad" algae, as all algae will remove nutrients and produce oxygen and is natural in any aquarium.  The "bad" occurs when it begins to increase over the plants as this will suffocate the plants.  I have algae including the dreaded brush algae in several tanks, but not on plants (except when the leaf begins to die).  As you mention it being on the plants, can you post a photo so I can see this?  Just in case.
 
Byron.

 

[alexge]

This looks to me like the beginning of black beard algae.
It tends to occur when you have an unbalanced relation between excess light and little nutrients or co2 in the water column.
 
You can remove it by turning off your filter and dosing liquid co2 (e.g., Excel) directly on it with a pipette.
(don't forget to turn your water filter back on after 10').
 
I wouldn't worry too much about it, it tends to attach itself on hard surfaces, décor, hard leaved plants and rocks.
Most algae isn't bad, its only a matter of aesthetics.
 
However, cyanobacteria (which look like algae, but aren't) can become toxic to your tank's inhabitants.

 

[hudsona85]

The plant is right next to the rock that I posted earlier. I didn't think there was a such thing as bad algae but had to ask in case. Ergo the "idiot" comment I made.
 

 

[Akasha72]

the algae on the plant looks like black beard algae.
 
Do you have an lfs that can test your phosphate level? That's the first base covered. Anything above 0.8ppm is bad and can cause BBA. 
 
Are you adding any co2? If not then look to start adding some.
 
Next you need to remove this from your tank as it emits spores. A small amount will soon spread and have your tank covered in it before you know where you are.

 

[Byron]

Common names can be as confusing with algae as with fish.  From the photo, this is a type of brush algae, that is called beard and black beard and red...etc.
 
This algae occurs when the light and nutrient balance is out.  I have had this, and I have always brought it under control by adjusting the light duration (I knew the intensity was not the issue) and/or the fertilization.  To give two examples, the first dealing with nutrients.  I was experimenting with twice weekly doses of Flourish Comprehensive (no other ferts), and I noticed after a few weeks that this algae was increasing in the 90g to the point where it very rapidly began covering the leaves of the sword plants.  I cut the FC back to once a week, no other changes, and after a few weeks the newer leaves remained clean.  I removed the older leaves bit by bit.  A couple of months later, I decided to repeat this, and had the exact same result: twice weekly fert increased this rapidly, but it went back under control when the fert went back to once weekly.  I have also had this algae increase with an increase in the light, and even something as simple as the increased daylight entering the room during summer.
 
I would need to know more of your system to suggest appropriate action.  I am certainly not a fan of using chemicals (like Excel) to deal with this, as it will only return if the cause is not addressed.  This is rather a nuisance algae, in whichever form one gets it, but it is not too difficult to control it.
 
Byron. 

 

[hudsona85]

the algae on the plant looks like black beard algae.
 
Do you have an lfs that can test your phosphate level? That's the first base covered. Anything above 0.8ppm is bad and can cause BBA. 
 
Are you adding any co2? If not then look to start adding some.
 
Next you need to remove this from your tank as it emits spores. A small amount will soon spread and have your tank covered in it before you know where you are.

I unfortunately do not have anything to test for phosphates. I doubt will find any at the LFS and may have to find it on Amazon. I am adding API CO booster but not as often as I should. Apparently it is supposed to be added daily.
 
 

Common names can be as confusing with algae as with fish.  From the photo, this is a type of brush algae, that is called beard and black beard and red...etc.
 
This algae occurs when the light and nutrient balance is out.  I have had this, and I have always brought it under control by adjusting the light duration (I knew the intensity was not the issue) and/or the fertilization.  To give two examples, the first dealing with nutrients.  I was experimenting with twice weekly doses of Flourish Comprehensive (no other ferts), and I noticed after a few weeks that this algae was increasing in the 90g to the point where it very rapidly began covering the leaves of the sword plants.  I cut the FC back to once a week, no other changes, and after a few weeks the newer leaves remained clean.  I removed the older leaves bit by bit.  A couple of months later, I decided to repeat this, and had the exact same result: twice weekly fert increased this rapidly, but it went back under control when the fert went back to once weekly.  I have also had this algae increase with an increase in the light, and even something as simple as the increased daylight entering the room during summer.
 
I would need to know more of your system to suggest appropriate action.  I am certainly not a fan of using chemicals (like Excel) to deal with this, as it will only return if the cause is not addressed.  This is rather a nuisance algae, in whichever form one gets it, but it is not too difficult to control it.
 
Byron. 

Not sue of what you are asking as far as the system? The LED light system by Marineland is made to light up the tank but does not provide spectrum lighting. I have 16 white LED and 8 blue. I run an AquaClear 110 with a sponge, carbon, and a mixture of Seachem Matrix and AquaClear ceramic biomax. I have the times set to have the white lights go on at 10:30am and off at 11:00. the blues only stay on 30 mins after 11pm and none during the day. I know its a bit long. Due to my crazy schedule of sometimes working in the morning or at night.
 
The window does let some light in but its at least 30 feet away from the tank. Other sources of light that I can think of is the dining room and kitchen (since the tank is right in the dining room) and those are LED lights to save on energy. Those lights are not usually on during the day. I would say an average of maybe and hour during the day and a few hours at night. I wonder if I should add anything other than the API Co2 or just go with something else to help balance the aquarium?

 

[Akasha72]

this might be a useful read Hudsona http/www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=4085
 
I was actually looking to see if the article in October's PFK was online as that covered all the main algae's plus the cause and how to fix it. It did back up my long term theory that excess phosphate causes BBA.
I had a massive BBA problem some time back. My entire tank went black and hairy, I even said it would grow on the fish if they stayed still long enough! I was on the verge of packing in fish keeping as my tank just reduced me to tears. It was only on a visit to Maidenhead Aquatics when I had a moan to the staff member about it that brought about the lightbulb moment. He advised I got my phosphate checked and it was then that I discovered it was off the scale... and extreemly high in my tap too. Even though my tank is a jungle of plants it just wasn't getting used up and so algae had taken it's opportunity. I now run a phosphate remover perminantly and have three true SAE's to eat it any returning BBA. 
 
It may not be phosphate in your tank that's the cause, it may be something else that's out of whack but checking the Po4 is still recommended even if it's just to rule it out.
Once you get BBA in a tank it can get quickly out of control and so tackling it now is the best option.

 

[Byron]

If you carefully read through that article that Akasha linked, and the comments following, you can easily see that there are about as many theories as there are possibilities to begin with.  The article bears no author's name, and George Farmer now writes for PFK on planted tank matters, and he has countered some of that information.  The point is, don't get fooled into thinking there is some cure-all, because there isn't.
 
Phosphate can cause algae, because as I said, all algae is caused by nutrients in the presence of light.  And troublesome algae, like brush/beard, occurs when that balance is not in sync.  Excess phosphates is one aspect of an imbalance, as is excessive light, excess iron, too little light, etc.
 
Adam, I have no experience with LED lighting so I can't suggest what you have is too little or too much.  And it would seem you are adding no nutrients (fertilizers) other than the API CO2 Booster, which is not going to help because without other nutrients the CO2 can feed algae; and, the reason this product is often suggested to kill algae is because it is gluteraldehyde which is a highly toxic chemical that in sufficient doses can kill bacteria, plants and fish.  In most of our low-tech or natural method planted tanks, there will be sufficient CO2 produced naturally to balance the other nutrients, and hopefully the light.  Until you get the balance between light (intensity and duration factor in) and nutrients that is sufficient for the plants you have, you will see troublesome algae.
 
My previous mention of daylight was not meant to suggest this is your problem, but only meant to indicate that something which might be "insignificant" in our thinking as the increase in daylight during the summer can push the light over the edge.  It's all about the balance.
 
Byron.

 

[hudsona85]

this might be a useful read Hudsona http/www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/content.php?sid=4085
 
I was actually looking to see if the article in October's PFK was online as that covered all the main algae's plus the cause and how to fix it. It did back up my long term theory that excess phosphate causes BBA.
I had a massive BBA problem some time back. My entire tank went black and hairy, I even said it would grow on the fish if they stayed still long enough! I was on the verge of packing in fish keeping as my tank just reduced me to tears. It was only on a visit to Maidenhead Aquatics when I had a moan to the staff member about it that brought about the lightbulb moment. He advised I got my phosphate checked and it was then that I discovered it was off the scale... and extreemly high in my tap too. Even though my tank is a jungle of plants it just wasn't getting used up and so algae had taken it's opportunity. I now run a phosphate remover perminantly and have three true SAE's to eat it any returning BBA. 
 
It may not be phosphate in your tank that's the cause, it may be something else that's out of whack but checking the Po4 is still recommended even if it's just to rule it out.
Once you get BBA in a tank it can get quickly out of control and so tackling it now is the best option.

I went to one of my other "upscale" LFS and they had the API phos test kit. It was tested and read 0. I just added 3 plants to the tank just this past saturday. I wonder if that will help balance out the tank. It also seems that my RTS is helping keeping the algae down along with my Columbian pleco. Upon reading the website that you gave me, there was some suggestion using RO water. I was told to steer away from using that and since then my tanks seem to have more life using tap water. From the article I also see suggestions with using live-bearers... Not suitable for the tank set up I have much less the water conditions that require it. I do have a pleco but most see her/him hiding and occasionally keeping the glass clean. I don't know much about snails enough to consider them and would feel it would not be beneficial in the long run. So it looks like the plant additions is my current project along with limiting my light times. I will adjust the time for that tonight. Thank you for the website!
 
 

If you carefully read through that article that Akasha linked, and the comments following, you can easily see that there are about as many theories as there are possibilities to begin with.  The article bears no author's name, and George Farmer now writes for PFK on planted tank matters, and he has countered some of that information.  The point is, don't get fooled into thinking there is some cure-all, because there isn't.
 
Phosphate can cause algae, because as I said, all algae is caused by nutrients in the presence of light.  And troublesome algae, like brush/beard, occurs when that balance is not in sync.  Excess phosphates is one aspect of an imbalance, as is excessive light, excess iron, too little light, etc.
 
Adam, I have no experience with LED lighting so I can't suggest what you have is too little or too much.  And it would seem you are adding no nutrients (fertilizers) other than the API CO2 Booster, which is not going to help because without other nutrients the CO2 can feed algae; and, the reason this product is often suggested to kill algae is because it is gluteraldehyde which is a highly toxic chemical that in sufficient doses can kill bacteria, plants and fish.  In most of our low-tech or natural method planted tanks, there will be sufficient CO2 produced naturally to balance the other nutrients, and hopefully the light.  Until you get the balance between light (intensity and duration factor in) and nutrients that is sufficient for the plants you have, you will see troublesome algae.
 
My previous mention of daylight was not meant to suggest this is your problem, but only meant to indicate that something which might be "insignificant" in our thinking as the increase in daylight during the summer can push the light over the edge.  It's all about the balance.
 
Byron.

Byron, what would you recommend using to supplement the plants? SeaChem Flourish maybe? I certainly do not want to add something into the tank that will cause more damage than good. API definitely has glutaral in it (not that I didn't believe) and the dead give away is a box with a big "X" on it and right beside it showing its an irritant... Lovely. I can work with balancing a ratio to keep things in check. I have some air circulation going through from the filter system but really do not think that is enough to help out with the CO2 process. I could be wrong.

 

[Akasha72]

great Hudsona, you've now ruled out the phosphate. As both Byron and I have said - there is something out of whack. We know now it's not the Po4 and so that's narrows down the search for the cause. I see you are now looking to the lighting period and this would be my next step. With algae it's a process of elimination - especially an algae such as BBA.
 
Once you find out where the imbalance is you should be able to either get rid of it totally or at least keep it at bay. Good luck with it. I'd show some photographs of what a BBA ridden tank gone wild looks like but I don't want to scare you!!

 

[Byron]

Byron, what would you recommend using to supplement the plants? SeaChem Flourish maybe? I certainly do not want to add something into the tank that will cause more damage than good. API definitely has glutaral in it (not that I didn't believe) and the dead give away is a box with a big "X" on it and right beside it showing its an irritant... Lovely. I can work with balancing a ratio to keep things in check. I have some air circulation going through from the filter system but really do not think that is enough to help out with the CO2 process. I could be wrong.
 

 
First on the CO2...this occurs in every aquarium from the respiration of fish, plants and some bacteria; but the primary source is from the breakdown of organics by bacteria, which is mainly in the substrate.  This is why many of us leave the substrate alone for the most part, meaning, do not go digging into it and cleaning it.  I have found that I have sufficient CO2 to supply the plants with the tanklights on for 7-8 hours.  This means that the system is relatively balanced for this length of time; any longer and the balance shifts (= CO2 runs out) and algae increases.  This period will vary from tank to tank so it is a matter of experimenting to find it.
 
Another thing while on the CO2 concerns floating plants.  Being at the surface, these can assimilate CO2 directly from the air.  It takes roughly four times longer for aquatic plants to take up the CO2 from water, so the floating plants have what we term the aerial advantage.  This is why floating plants are such fast growers; they have good light, and readily take up CO2 which is never in short supply.  The other nutrients come from the water column obviously.  So adding some floaters would benefit you.
 
Which brings me to your question about fertilizers.  This depends upon the avaiulable natural nutrients in the system.  These come from water changes (the "hard" minerals like calcium, magnesium) and fish foods.  Depending upon the plant species and numbers (which determines the level of nutrients needed) and the fish load, fertilizer additives may be unnecessary or may help, or may be essential.  Always begin with a complete or comprehensive liquid.  Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti, the Easylife Profito Akasha uses...these are some.  This is what I meant previously when I said I would need to know more about your system...the GH of the source water, fish load/feedings, plants, light all factor into this balance.
 
Byron.

 

[hudsona85]

great Hudsona, you've now ruled out the phosphate. As both Byron and I have said - there is something out of whack. We know now it's not the Po4 and so that's narrows down the search for the cause. I see you are now looking to the lighting period and this would be my next step. With algae it's a process of elimination - especially an algae such as BBA.
 
Once you find out where the imbalance is you should be able to either get rid of it totally or at least keep it at bay. Good luck with it. I'd show some photographs of what a BBA ridden tank gone wild looks like but I don't want to scare you!!

Thank goodness it't not the Po4! If you are willing to share them, I'd be happy to see them. Not much scares me.

 
 

 
Which brings me to your question about fertilizers.  This depends upon the avaiulable natural nutrients in the system.  These come from water changes (the "hard" minerals like calcium, magnesium) and fish foods.  Depending upon the plant species and numbers (which determines the level of nutrients needed) and the fish load, fertilizer additives may be unnecessary or may help, or may be essential.  Always begin with a complete or comprehensive liquid.  Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti, the Easylife Profito Akasha uses...these are some.  This is what I meant previously when I said I would need to know more about your system...the GH of the source water, fish load/feedings, plants, light all factor into this balance.
 
Byron.
 

I apologize for the confusion. I didn't realize which part of what system you are asking for. As you and I have discussed in the past in regards to water hardness and what fish to put in the 75gal I am setting up, we discovered the GH of the water.  Based on the city water parameters, the Alkalinity is 27.8ppm. The GH is 25.1ppm. I believe based on the formula you gave me, the water was soft. The feedings used to be twice a day but now goes to once a day at night. I also do not feed them the day of water changes. The water changes vary between 1-3 times a week at 30-50%, Usually 2.
Plants:
1- Amazon sword (Recently Added)
2- Bacopa (Recently Added)
2- Anubus
2- Java Moss (I think)
 
Now, about the fish load. Well.. Before anyone says anything with what I am about to list; Yes, I know its overstocked for now. I plan to put some of these fish in the 75gal in the next couple of weeks as soon as my 75gal is cycled. I will indicate which.
The 55gal is hosts:
 
1-Gold Severum (75)
2- Dension Barbs (Rosline) (75)
1- RTS
9- Tiger Barbs
3- Kribs
1- Zebra Synodontis (75)
1- Columbian Pleco
2- Opaline Gourami
2- German Rams
1- Bolivian Ram
1- Firemouth (75)

 

[Byron]

A couple of comments quickly on the fish...tiger barbs should not be in the same tank as gourami or cichlids.  And the Denison barbs must have a larger group, at least five though eight would be better.
 
To the plants and ferts, with soft water the sword and bacopa may have some issues so I would look into one of the ferts I mentioned last post.