Water Test Interpretation

[Stephan]

Ok. I tested my other tank 30 gallons already cycled just checking it. That one I could barely tell if it was the color of 0 or .25. So I tested my tap water knowing that has to be 0 (right?) and it was exactly the same color which means 0. Leads me to think maybe I misread. But when I do my water test on the 55 tonight I'll compare to the chart AND the vial of tap water. If its 0 tonight I'll start moving stuff. Am I correct in assuming I should move equal amounts?

All the tiger barbs and danios are going back to the 30 and the angel and rainbow shark are going to the 55. Also mh mollies will go to the 55 but I can move those in phases if need be to balance the move.

Now I've got my last 30 to stock. But I'm thinking that:

14 neon tetra
10 tiger barb
4 otocinclus
5 zebra danio
Some glass shrimp
Might be a bit much for my 30 so those might be subdivided to 2 tanks in which case I need an idea of what to put with the barbs/danios and what else to put with the neon tetras. Or if I'm ok with this stocking level I could go pretty much anywhere with the other tank.

 

[Stephan]

Tested again tonight. .25 ppm still. Still high nitrates probably over 100 ppm. So definitely a massive water change in order.

My friend brought some of his water to test and he had 8 ppm ammonia in one tank. Needless to say he's on his way home to do a 90% water change right away and then 75% per day til he cycles.

 

[Aqua Tom]

You have hit the nail on the head here. Daily tests & water changes are needed to bring down the Nitrate & Ammonia. Keep us informed.

Tom

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Your tap water doesn't have to be zero. Mine is 0.25ppm, because my water company uses chloramines (ammonia bonded with chlorine to make the chlorine more stable.

 

[KittyKat]

Ok. I tested my other tank 30 gallons already cycled just checking it. That one I could barely tell if it was the color of 0 or .25. So I tested my tap water knowing that has to be 0 (right?) and it was exactly the same color which means 0. Leads me to think maybe I misread. But when I do my water test on the 55 tonight I'll compare to the chart AND the vial of tap water. If its 0 tonight I'll start moving stuff. Am I correct in assuming I should move equal amounts?

Tap water can have ammonia in it.

Now I've got my last 30 to stock. But I'm thinking that:

14 neon tetra
10 tiger barb
4 otocinclus
5 zebra danio
Some glass shrimp
Might be a bit much for my 30 so those might be subdivided to 2 tanks in which case I need an idea of what to put with the barbs/danios and what else to put with the neon tetras. Or if I'm ok with this stocking level I could go pretty much anywhere with the other tank.

Pass on the zebras, they prefer cool water and larger groups. Maybe 6-8 Otos would be better.. do remember that you'll have to feed them

 

[Stephan]

I already own all these fish. It's just a matter of whether they would be overstocked here and I need to break them into 2 tanks or not.

So if my tap water has ammonia how does that get resolved?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

There are a few ways:

#1 - it won't bother a mature filter, and even with a water change, its still not a big problem as they concentration will be diluted in the entire tank.
#2 - use a dechlorinator that deals with that (Prime or Stress Coat)... these turn the ammonia into ammonium which is far less toxic. This will protect the fish until the filter processes it.


Disclaimer:
****I will list this, but do not recommend it.***
#3 - Use RO water or distilled water. These will both have zero ammonia, but also will be lacking essential minerals needed by plants and fish.

 

[Stephan]

Ok. But I think it was 0 I'm just color challenged. But the 55 g was definitely .25 and crazy high nitrates. Didn't run a test today as power was out for 6 hours. I'll check tomorrow and it better be 0.