Very Noob Aquarium Owner!

I was in your situation when I first got my tank and had to do a fish in cycle. Ultimately I decided to upgrade my filter to a different model - but if you decide to keep the stingray here is what I did.
As I didn't want to keep paying for cartridges I bought a box of floss media and stuffed that in where the cartridges were. When you remove the cartridges - you will get an ammonia spike as the zeolite is no longer in there taking out ammonia. To prevent the ammonia spike harming my fish I used API - ammo-lock.
Now you are in a fish in cycle with the ammo-lock acting as a buffer against ammonia spikes - so you need to keep a very close eye on ammonia and nitrite levels - daily water changes are required. Took me about 5 weeks until I was fully cycled. My wife thought I was totally mad doing the water changes every day.
You will definitely want to get an API master liquid test kit as you will be doing a lot of tests and the strips are not only expensive - but not very reliable.
Good luck!

Well I couldn't get the API one, so got the Nutrafin master kit which has 7 chemicals 1 for ph, 2 for nitrite, 3 for nitrate, and 1 for ammonia.

Latest readings are:-

ph - 8 : definately better than the strips, i just couldn't tell!
Ammonia - Clear - got to be 0 which is the same as the strips...
Nitrite - Slight pink tinge to the water - Strips show no change so close to 0 I'd say
Nitrate - about 40

Which is pretty much the same as yesterday without any change since the tank was moved to our house - 3 days.

About the Stingray.... the cartridges in there are probably months old and I thought this meant that they are serving no purpose anymore, but
after your post I'm not so sure..... can you please clarify about the ammonia you mentioned?

The only other thing to note is that we put in some plastic stuff yesterday (ornaments :) and they are getting a green tinge around the edges, algae
probably but wondered if this is normal.... can we minimise it, eliminate it ? What's the best way to do this ?

The only other thing that slightly concerns me is the reading of the Nitrite sample..... Am I supposed to try to match the colour, or the opaqeness of the
sample ? The colour matches the '3' on the card, but it's very translucent, rather than a lot of that colour so closer to the 0-1 really :)

I opted for the 0-1 reading as the strip shows no sign of colour at all ....... Still very noob, I'm afraid! :D
 
Are there any members out there familiar with which models/cartridges of the elite stingray have Zeolite in them? The OP has an elite stingray and I'm wondering if we should see whether this is one of the ones that has the white zeolite chips mixed in with carbon chips in one or more of the cartridges.

~~waterdrop~~

I can confirm that.

I found that they were starving my bacteria.

I emptied the little baskets and filled them with filter floss and my cycle kicked into life.

Then i upgraded to a fluval 2+ and never looked back
 
yes you want to be careful mucking around with the zeolite, as you currently have 0 ammonia and nitrite there is no need to do anything instantly so it's important that you fully understand the situation and possible consequences before you take any action. It sounds like you are doing your research but I'l set it out in plain english anyway just to make sure you have all bases covered. :good:

'normal' filter media such as sponges, bio balls, ceramic noodles etc will have this beneficial bacteria growing on them which convert ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate which is less harmful and you remove via water changes.

zeolite just sucks up the ammonia from the water until it is saturated with it, it's a chemical process not a biological one. the appeal of it is easy to understand, you don't need to spend months cycling a tank or dong daily water changes you can just add fish from day 1 and have no ammonia or nitrite spike so no danger to the fish imminently.

The problem comes because zeolite can only absorb a finite amount of ammonia, once it has removed all that it can from the water it will just stop working and needs to be replaced. For the average aquarist this then represents a big problem as the ammonia will build up and the tank will start to cycle and unless you're testing every single day you don't know when this will happen. I guess you could add an ammonia alarm to the tank but I'm unsure how accurate these actually are and you could still nuke your tank if it happened to stop working when you were away for a weekend or something like that.

So consequently we recommend that people don't use it, it's expensive, needs replacing regularly and is unstable as your tank can start cycling at any time, much better to go with the natural process of building up the bacteria by a cycle at the start of the tanks life, we recommend this is done fishlessly as it's safer for the fish but the outcome would be the same with a fish-in cycle.

So if you currently have zeolite in your filter you are at one of two points

either

1 - the zeolite is not yet saturated meaning it is soaking up ammonia but the tank may start cycling at any point

2 - the zeolite has become saturated and stopped working but the other filter media have dealt with the cycle and bacteria is present and doing it's job perfectly.

Obviously we are hoping that it's option 2 but we can't yet be sure. At some point it's definately recommended that you change out the zeolite and add in some more normal filter media like filter floss where mechanical filtration will take place and bacteria can grow. If you are in option 2 then doing this will not make any difference, you won't have a cycle and eveything will be OK but you'll have a much better long term filtration system. However if you are in option 1 then when you remove the zeolite the tank will cycle and you'll need to do daily water changes and go through all that aggro until the bacteria grow.

The tricky bit here is I can't think of a way of telling for sure which stage you are at, any ideas anyone?

Really what I would suggest is you make sure you have a complete liquid test kit asap, fully read up on fish-in cycling so you are absolutely sure you know what to do if you do get a cycle, change some media, test every day and keep your fingers crossed. At least this way you are prepared for the worst and can act immediately rather than it being sprung on you when the zeolite stops working suddenly.

I don't think there's any need for unnecessary panic, if the cartridges are several months old there's a very good chance that you are in option 2 and will be fine. But best to be prepared for the worst.
 
ok, now I get the zeolite thing!

I hope it's option 2 also....

Unless there's any good suggestions as to how to tell what's really going on, maybe the best bet is to source some
cycled media to be sure I have bacteria and put it in the tank somehow.....

Maybe Get a fluval..... although I'd like to know why this is better than replacing the zeolite cartridges with 'floss'

What are the benefits of a fluval over this current stingray ?

and as I plan to upgrade the tank sometime.... to say 120l to accomodate our fishes (I think we're overstocked if they mature! ) would it be better
to go for the fluval 3+ now , or is the faster flow detrimental in the smaller tank ?

omg, I hate having to keep asking stuff, but there's just so much to learn!
 
I have the same tank and the 2+ is enough power.

From looking at my 2+ output id say in a tank that size a 3+ would pin the fish to the glass.

Benifits, as i have the same tank, HAD the same filter and have upgraded.

More filter media

Less work as it does a better job in general

Easier to clean

And the main thing is that if you take the fluval out for any particular reason it doesn't drain all the crap back into the tank like the stingray does. That really got on my nerves.

Oh and fish cant get stuck behind it

Do a quick google and youll see a couple of horror stories involving stingray filters
 
About the Stingray.... the cartridges in there are probably months old and I thought this meant that they are serving no purpose anymore, but
after your post I'm not so sure..... can you please clarify about the ammonia you mentioned?

The only other thing to note is that we put in some plastic stuff yesterday (ornaments :) and they are getting a green tinge around the edges, algae
probably but wondered if this is normal.... can we minimise it, eliminate it ? What's the best way to do this ?

The only other thing that slightly concerns me is the reading of the Nitrite sample..... Am I supposed to try to match the colour, or the opaqeness of the
sample ? The colour matches the '3' on the card, but it's very translucent, rather than a lot of that colour so closer to the 0-1 really :)

I opted for the 0-1 reading as the strip shows no sign of colour at all ....... Still very noob, I'm afraid! :D

If the cartridges are months old - I think you are right and they will no longer be having any effect so you could remove them. The problem you may have now is that your beneficial bacteria might be in those cartridges. Not sure what to suggest here - I would be keen to remove the zeolite regardless - but at the same time you don't want to mess up your cycling. Perhaps remove one of the two cartridges and keep an eye on your statistics for a couple of weeks before removing the second cartridge.

As for algae on the ornaments - I have a crew of shrimp who like to keep my ornaments clean. I also give them a quick clean in old tank water once a month.

For the nitrite test - you are matching the colour - you will need to water change until you are definitely below 1 and heading towards 0. I am afraid that you will need to keep up the water changes for a while until you are fully cycled.
 
I have the same tank and the 2+ is enough power.

From looking at my 2+ output id say in a tank that size a 3+ would pin the fish to the glass.

Benifits, as i have the same tank, HAD the same filter and have upgraded.

More filter media

Less work as it does a better job in general

Easier to clean

And the main thing is that if you take the fluval out for any particular reason it doesn't drain all the crap back into the tank like the stingray does. That really got on my nerves.

Oh and fish cant get stuck behind it

Do a quick google and youll see a couple of horror stories involving stingray filters

Sold! To the noob with no clue :)

ok, I will be getting a fluval 2+ then.....

So, how can I swap to the fluval and not lose my (maybe) cycled tank ? I guess the media will be very different, so what to do ?

BTW, I love this forum, so many helpful people around..... and very friendly :)
 
I have the same tank and the 2+ is enough power.

From looking at my 2+ output id say in a tank that size a 3+ would pin the fish to the glass.

Benifits, as i have the same tank, HAD the same filter and have upgraded.

More filter media

Less work as it does a better job in general

Easier to clean

And the main thing is that if you take the fluval out for any particular reason it doesn't drain all the crap back into the tank like the stingray does. That really got on my nerves.

Oh and fish cant get stuck behind it

Do a quick google and youll see a couple of horror stories involving stingray filters

Sold! To the noob with no clue :)

ok, I will be getting a fluval 2+ then.....

So, how can I swap to the fluval and not lose my cycled tank ? I guess the media will be very different, so what to do ?

BTW, I love this forum, so many helpful people around..... and very friendly :)

Well that, i can only half answer. As i got mature filter media which was out of a fluval filter, so i put that in which fit well. Then i cut up my stingray media and put it on top of the new filter sponge, on the other side.

I still went through a mini cycle as i lost bacteria that was on the stingray filter itself but its all balanced out now and im glad i did it.

Oh and i left my filter swap until my tank had finished cycling. But id wait and see if you and the more experianced members can work out whether your tank has cycled or not.

If it hasnt, Id just stick the new filter in and try to get some mature filter media and keep testing and changing the water until its cycled

If it has cycled, i would make sure you have your qualifying week then swap your filter in the way i said, cutting up filter media and mixing old and new. Then keep testing and chaging water as you may have a mini cycle.

Oh and, dont let your old filter media dry up. Keep putting it in a bucket of tank water if necessary to keep it alive.
 
I forget, are we fish-in cycling here? I think so, and it would seem easiest to me, unless I'm forgetting or missing something, to just set up and add the fluval 2+ to the tank in addition to the existing stingray and just leave both running for a long, long time. A month or two would definately do a smooth switchover I'd think and then you could remove the stingray while of course testing to make sure all your stats continue to be good.

~~waterdrop~~
 
the last fish is a colombian tetra
Interesting! What sort of personality, if you know?

Colombian tetras are an extremely hardy larger species that can get to around 3", This makes them ideal ditthers for smaller or less aggressive cichlid species, (i currently have a shoal of 7) In the main they are fairly peaceful, provided they are kept in an adequate shoal.
 
I forget, are we fish-in cycling here? I think so, and it would seem easiest to me, unless I'm forgetting or missing something, to just set up and add the fluval 2+ to the tank in addition to the existing stingray and just leave both running for a long, long time. A month or two would definately do a smooth switchover I'd think and then you could remove the stingray while of course testing to make sure all your stats continue to be good.

~~waterdrop~~


the OP bought a mature tank so not cycling at all, probably safe to change the filter without a cycle happening but without knowing the full history of the tank it's hard to tell exactly what will happen.

if you have the space add the new filter, run them in tandem for about a month and then remove the stingray, if you don't have room then transfer all the media from the stingray to the fluval, feel free to cut up sponges or anything like that to make them fit in the fluval, just keep them wet with tank water while you do it. then keep your fingers crossed that you don't have a mini cycle.

of course if you can source some mature media from somewhere (you may find someone who lives near you on the forum who can help, check out the media donation link in my sig) and if you can get that and fill the fluval with that and the non-zeolite media from the stingray you should be ok.
 
Just run the two filters side by side. The bacteria will soon start to colonise your new filter. Reproduction is what bacteria do best!
 
Haven't the Fluval + changed now to Fluval U series? They look a bit complicated to me, from what I've seen online. I know our LFS and Pets At Home both have the new U ones now. I bought an Airflow 100 on Friday for my 3@ tank which is now tropical too as our last goldfish died.
 

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