Uh oh I need help fast....

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When using a siphon to fill the tank, like the one below, which I highly recommend, if you have a compatible faucet within 25 feet of the tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/?tag=ff0d01-20
Yah that wont work for me. I just have a normal 6ft python siphon... Ok yes now I know what you mean. I'm going to be using the bucket fill method... Where you just fill the bucket and dump it into the tank and then use water conditioner.
 
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Yah that wont work for me. I just have a normal 6ft python siphon... Ok yes now I know what you mean. I'm going to be using the bucket fill method... Where you just fill the bucket and dump it into the tank and then use water conditioner.
When using buckets, treat the bucket water with conditioner BEFORE adding to the tank
 
With buckets you add the dechlorinator to each bucketful at the dose rate for the volume of the bucket. You use the amount to treat the new water only. My dechlorinator dose rate is 1 drop per US gallon. My bucket holds 2 gallons so I add 2 drops to every bucketful. (I can't lift anything heavier than 2 gallons :blush:) Since I can't lift the bucket high enough to pour it in the tank - and it would cause a crater in the sand - I use a jug to scoop it from the bucket to the tank. This does the same as SlapHppy holding the fill tube above the water.

When filling with a hose, the dechlorinator has to be added to the tank, and a lot of dechlorinators say to add the amount to treat the entire tank volume, not the the amount of new water (read the instructions carefully and if in doubt email the manufacturer).
 
With buckets you add the dechlorinator to each bucketful at the dose rate for the volume of the bucket. You use the amount to treat the new water only. My dechlorinator dose rate is 1 drop per US gallon. My bucket holds 2 gallons so I add 2 drops to every bucketful. (I can't lift anything heavier than 2 gallons :blush:) Since I can't lift the bucket high enough to pour it in the tank - and it would cause a crater in the sand - I use a jug to scoop it from the bucket to the tank. This does the same as SlapHppy holding the fill tube above the water.

When filling with a hose, the dechlorinator has to be added to the tank, and a lot of dechlorinators say to add the amount to treat the entire tank volume, not the the amount of new water (read the instructions carefully and if in doubt email the manufacturer).
Or you can just add a generous amount... Lol
 
That way you know you got enough. I dont think you can overdose the stuff really
Yes, it IS possible to overdose water conditioner...Seachem's website states that it is safe up to 5X the recommended dose of Prime for extreme situations, but I wouldn't risk it
 
I agree with posts #22 and #23. Water conditioner can cause issues, and should never be added at a level greater than what is actually required to treat the new water. There is an issue with oxygen for example, and the problem of chemicals getting inside the fish.

Back to the initial question/issue...you need to ascertain the GH of your tap water. The pH is connected to the GH (general hardness, which is the level of dissolved calcium and magnesium (primarily) in the water, and the KH (carbonate hardness also called Alkalinity). Other things like dissolved CO2 also factor in. But the pH will tend to adjust itself according to these other factors. Never attempt to alter the pH, this can cause fluctuating pH levels that will seriously impact fish. Check the website of your municipal water authority, it may have data (including GH and KH) on the water, or call them.
 
Yes, it IS possible to overdose water conditioner...Seachem's website states that it is safe up to 5X the recommended dose of Prime for extreme situations, but I wouldn't risk it
My api conditioner says its 1ml for each 20 gallons... So its literally just a drip I have to add to the 5 gallon bucket lol
 
I agree with posts #22 and #23. Water conditioner can cause issues, and should never be added at a level greater than what is actually required to treat the new water. There is an issue with oxygen for example, and the problem of chemicals getting inside the fish.

Back to the initial question/issue...you need to ascertain the GH of your tap water. The pH is connected to the GH (general hardness, which is the level of dissolved calcium and magnesium (primarily) in the water, and the KH (carbonate hardness also called Alkalinity). Other things like dissolved CO2 also factor in. But the pH will tend to adjust itself according to these other factors. Never attempt to alter the pH, this can cause fluctuating pH levels that will seriously impact fish. Check the website of your municipal water authority, it may have data (including GH and KH) on the water, or call them.
Imma let some water sit for a whole day and test it with strips (just what I have on hand from my last 3.5 gallon tank that went horrible) I will get the api test kit soon.
 
My api conditioner says its 1ml for each 20 gallons... So its literally just a drip I have to add to the 5 gallon bucket lol
Use a medicinal syringe to measure out your conditioner, they are (usually) marked in increments of ml....makes dosing conditioner easy and accurate
 
I use API Tap Water Conditioner and my bottle says 1 ml per 15 gallons, which is 1 drop per gallon. I bought a very small bottle which has a dropper in the lid and use a bigger bottle to top it up.
This one - image from API's website
tap-water-conditioner-1.jpg

Or use a pipette or dropper to measure drops.
 
Use a medicinal syringe to measure out your conditioner, they are (usually) marked in increments of ml....makes dosing conditioner easy and accurate
Ill see but idk
 
I leave the paper cover seal over the opening of the API bottle and make a tiny hole in it so I can get it out 1 drop at a time.
 

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