Turtle In With A Betta

[hollanda88]

Hi
When i saw the question, my immediate thought was no. So i googled it, and the only issue i can see is that the turtle is mainly nocturnal so could harass the betta at night. I haven't as yet found anywhere that has said you can or cant keep with fish. So Truck, if you know why they cant go together then say? I like your informative posts Truck, but you can be a bit abrupt with no explanation sometimes. A forum is for sharing knowledge, not just telling people to research or google whatever.

Still here lol,

Yeah thats what i was getting at, answers with no explanations isn't helpful, the musk we have isn't nippy and came from a fish full tank,

andrew

was it able to leave the water?

yeah, had platforms and steps up to the side but was still quite deep.

andrew

 

[Truck]

was their a basking spot? or a 2%UV bulb?

 

[nosoup4you]

Musk turtles can live with fish but I'm afraid a betta would be too slow and finny for a turtle to resist.

 

[love4aquatic]

Musk turtles can live with fish but I'm afraid a betta would be too slow and finny for a turtle to resist.

i had a red eared slider i bought goldfish for it to eat, it never ate them, it became friends with it and they even hid under its arms in the shell with it untill they got too big. any other goldfish or food i put in was gone in 2 seconds but he just wanted friends....

so your turtle may be able to go in with it, but i wouldnt do it, it might not eat it but it could just take bites out of it.

 

[loraxchick]

i have corries with my turtle... ive tried all sorts of fish..the neons were the first to go. 5 over night!....then she found the ottos MANY months later...gone...kuhli loach...gone...RED FINNED SHARK (4 inches) was so badly injured i had to put him down...corries- absolutely ignores!!!! for a year...so it depends, i think. on how "turtle savvy" the fish are, and the turtles geneeal interest in each type...but ABSOLUTELY be prepared to lose some fihs if you try to keep turtles and fish together...my turtle is going into my pond after the thaw, so the corries get a repreive.

 

[hollanda88]

was it able to leave the water? was their a basking spot? or a 2%UV bulb?

Yeah it had a basking lamp, and u can feed them vitamin precursors so they can synthasis D3 too

 

[bronzecat]

i have corries with my turtle... ive tried all sorts of fish..the neons were the first to go. 5 over night!....then she found the ottos MANY months later...gone...kuhli loach...gone...RED FINNED SHARK (4 inches) was so badly injured i had to put him down...corries- absolutely ignores!!!! for a year...so it depends, i think. on how "turtle savvy" the fish are, and the turtles geneeal interest in each type...but ABSOLUTELY be prepared to lose some fihs if you try to keep turtles and fish together...my turtle is going into my pond after the thaw, so the corries get a repreive.

Sorry Loraxchick, but after the turtle ate the neons overnight, and neons are pretty quick fish, why continue to subject fish to the danger? Lets just hope that your cories survive till the turtle moves out!

 

[loraxchick]

im just giving the guy some info and telling him like it is. he asked about fish and turtles so i share my experience.
just like the guy with the goldfish that the turtle didnt touch, my girl completely ignores the cories. they were the first to be added...never been touched...tried other fish..it didnt work.

and you absolutley need to suppliment a turtle's diet with vitamins and fresh greens (depending on the species and their natural diet...some turltes are much more omnivorous than other species. age is also a factor in diet..young turtles require more protein than older turtles, esp. hatchlings. agreed about the UV lighting (uvb is the MOST important-over uva, anyway...important for proper shell growth and calcium absorbtion.). they make a "reptile dust" that you either soak for a few minutes with its pellets before adding them to the tank or sprinkle on some food that you've placed in the basking area for it to eat. if no suppliment is given all sorts of health issues may arise form shell rot, to eye infections to the dreaded upper respitory infections (which generally are VERY slow to heal) and you will certainly have one very sick turtle!
basking area also very important. must be big enough for the turtle to be completely out of the water. if they are not allowed to dry out, you may get shell rot, which is not something you (or your turtle) would be very happy to deal with. Heat lamps warm them up (they are afterall cold blooded) so it boosts metabolism. without a heat lamp, you will have A. a very sluggish turtle or b. a very sickly turtle, as immune system is directly related to temperature (ie metabolism). heated water also helps the immune system but is not necessary re: certain "northern" species (kinda like tropical vs "coldwater" fish.
and then there is flitration. turtles are amazingly dirty creatures. filthy messy eaters and produce lots of waste. do not buy a "turtle filter" they are JUNK!!! get a filter with a rating at LEAST 3x the volume of tankwater. and be prepared for lots of water changes and gravel vaccing!
there is my two cents.

if anyone is thinking about getting a turtle, please be advised that the cost of setting up a proper "habitat" (and i use this term losely) is absulutely not cheap. a good bulb and fixture will run you around 60$ at least and then the filter, and the tank, and the food, and the heatlamp, and a timer for you lights, and a BIG TANK (they grow soooooooooooooooo fast so the cute little hatchling may well be 5 inches in a year-think aobut that)...they are by no means "easy to care for" and can live up to 30+years with proper care...just be prepared for the commitment is all. loads of work but very, very interesting "pets".
cheers

 

[hollanda88]

(they are afterall cold blooded)

I hate that term it makes no sense lol,

but any ways, thanks for the advice.

andrew

 

[loraxchick]

warm blooded animals make their own heat. their metabolism and basically all bodily functions are fairly much constant (due to the "constant" warm internal environment)...cold blooded animals rely on the temperature of their environment to heat their bodies up (they cant make their own heat)...so if its cool, their body systems slow down...this includes their muscular functioning (ie. activity level- they cant be active if their surroundings are too cold), immune system, digestive system, etc.

of course im grossly simplifying the diference.

 

[hollanda88]

warm blooded animals make their own heat. their metabolism and basically all bodily functions are fairly much constant (due to the "constant" warm internal environment)...cold blooded animals rely on the temperature of their environment to heat their bodies up (they cant make their own heat)...so if its cool, their body systems slow down...this includes their muscular functioning (ie. activity level- they cant be active if their surroundings are too cold), immune system, digestive system, etc.

of course im grossly simplifying the diference.

I know why the term is used i just don't like it lol. Cold blooded (plokiothermic animals (spelling)) do not always have cold blood so polkiothermic of heterothermic would be much better terms to use and more scientifically correct.

Andrew

 

[loraxchick]

if you want to be scientific
i honestly thought you didnt know what it meant so tried to be simple