Test Kits

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pongo

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hello peeps,
 
New to all this so please bear with me. Looking to get a water test kit but getting conflicting advice from different people. some friends who have fish say as i only got a small starter tank, 40cmx25cmx25cm, get the litmus paper test kits. But others including members on here say get the liquid test kit. I have a friend that breeds Guppies and she uses the litmus paper test kit and says they are fine. On another matter, i done what, by reading alot on here, most new people done is set up the tank and after a few days of adding the chemicals, Nutrafin Cycle, Tetra Aqua Safe and Ammonia Detoxifier, thought of starting to add fish. But before i added the fish my friend bought round 5 Guppies that she had bred herself and some 'poo water'. (normal fish tank water with a little fish waste in). A couple of days later got 3 Neons, 2 Tiger Barbs, 2 Gold Neon Barbs. One Neon has died because the Tiger Barms kept fighting with it. apart from that all seems to be ok, fish swimming happily around and getting on, no more fighting going on, feeding good and colour of the fish is great still and water is very clear, also doing 50% water changes every week. So when im reading about fish in cycle, does this mean ive been doing this without knowing it?? Hence the reason of thinking to go and buy a test kit.  Guppies have been in the tank for 3 weeks and the other fish for 2 weeks and as i said all seem to be great.Any help and advice is as always very welcome.
 
Yes, you have been fish in cycling.

The 'poo water' is unlikely to have contained any of the bacteria you need; you'd really need a piece of actual filter media from a mature tank, put in your filter, to have any chance of an instant cycle.

You definitely do need test kits, and I would always recommend liquid or tablet based ones rather than the paper strip kind. First of ll, the paper strips can be inaccurate, and many don't include a test for ammonia which it is vital to be able to monitor. The clearness of your water is irrelevant; hydrochloric acid is crystal clear, but it wouldn't do your fish any good!

As an aside, I know it's not what you're asking about, but the tiger and gold barbs are not suitable for your tank; they get too big and need to be kept in groups of at least six (as do the neons). The tiger barbs are also going to be very aggressive in a pair rather than a proper shoal.
 
i would recommend the API freshwater liquid test kit, i am also new to the hobby but on advice have learnt that these are the best of the lot. They are always accurate and litmus paper tests are not, you may see a problem but your litmus paper may not pick up on it and fish store is closed then bang, your stock is gone. That is a worst case scenario but does happen. The api test kits tests just about anything (besides fish happiness ;) ) And most lfs' sell the restock for the kit which includes instructions test tubes and pretty much all you will need and they last ages. Strongly recommend to anyone. :)
 
I have found API kits to be inaccurate.  However, they are a good entry level starting kit and good value for money.  There are better and more accurate test kits available but they tend to cost more.
 
daizeUK said:
I have found API kits to be inaccurate.  However, they are a good entry level starting kit and good value for money.  There are better and more accurate test kits available but they tend to cost more.
 
Agreed, API are decent enough for beginners and even experienced keepers alike. 
 
Value for money, these API Master Kits are the best.
 
Salifert tend to be more accurate but costly and to be honest, don't think most keepers need to go that far unless going for very specific types of biotopes and/or fish stocking.
 
Salifert have a good reputation but I the kits I tried were even more unreliable than API.
Currently I'm using Seachem ammonia multitest which is spot on, but probably more complicated than necessary for general requirements.
 
Value for money, as charlie said, api imho is the best and for beginners like me and fluttermouth, they are quite straight forward to use
 
Really. Good to know about the Salifert, was not going to try these anyway due to the cost really.
 
I have recently just bought Hagen Master Test kit, gonna put it on reviews in a few weeks time when I have used it several times.
 
I use the API test kit and I'm really happy about it, I had it double (triple) checked with a few LFS and it seemed pretty accurate.
 
From your picture the 30 min test looks to me to be well above 1 ppm. And this points up the difficulty with all these tests, they are color based and human vision is not precise. That is why the more expensive and much more accurate lab grade tests do not rely on human eyes, instead they use a colorimeter to read the color.
 
But then there are the measurement issues. How certain is anybody that the drops coming out of the bottle are always uniform amounts? When one works with very small quantities and then imprecise measuring, results will always be questionable.
 
Thanks to this topic my autism has led me to believe I should buy another Nitrate test kit.
I'll go with the salifert and see what it gives me.
 
Why do you want a nitrate kit? They are the least accurate and the least useful of the standard slate of kits.
 
TwoTankAmin said:
Why do you want a nitrate kit? They are the least accurate and the least useful of the standard slate of kits.
How should I go about testing my Nitrates then?
 
I want them because I have been battling with too damn high levels of Nitrates recently (From 110 down to 30, according to my API test kit)
 
Let me try repeating myself. Nitrate test kits are the least accurate in relation to these kits (listed in no particular order):
 
GH
KH
Nitrite
Ammonia
NH3
pH
 
I have used API kits for about 12 years. They can be used if one is aware of their short comings and inaccuracies. I have all of the above listed kits plus the nitrate kit. I have reordered them a couple of times as they have been used up or expired due to lack of use. I have not used a nitrate kit since setting up my high light co2 added planted tank about 12 years ago. I used the nitrate kit in that to see if i was getting 0 nitrates right before the water change. Once I knew it read 0 all the time, I knew i needed to add nitrate to my fertilizing regimen. Since then I have never used a nitrate kit.
 
Then there is the old Nitrate-nitrogen vs Nitrate (total ions). The way the hobby kits, including from API, work is they measure total ions. In science they use a different scale- the nitrogen scale. Think if it as measuring distance in miles vs kilometers and the nitrogen scale is miles while the total ion scales is like kilometers. Most times you see levels listed for being dangers to the fish in our tanks it originated using the nitrogen scale. But we are testing with the other scale. Here is the difference between the two.
 
1 ppm Ammonia- nitrogen = 1.28 ppm ammonia on the total ion scale.
1 ppm of Nitrite- nitrogen  = 3.28 ppm nitrite on the total ion scale.
1 ppm of Nitrate- nitrogen  = 4.42 ppm nitrate on the total ion scale.
 
Working with 10 ppm of Nitrate-nitrogen that would = about 45 ppm on an API kit. Note that 10 ppm of Nitrate-nitrogen is considered the safe limit for drinking water, even for infants, according to the 2002 US EPA guidelines. I believe they consider twice that (20 ppm as nitrogen) safe for most aquatic life for exposures less that 4 days.
 
Unless you are way overstocked and have no live plants, the odds pretty good are that doing weekly water changes of 35-50% will keep nitrates in a safe range. But out of curiosity, next time you test tank nitrates, test your tap levels at the same time- just prepare two vials and add the drops etc. to both and see what the results are.
 

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