Test Kit Accuracy

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LoachLover

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Just a quick question, and perhaps an explanation. I've always thought the liquid test kits were the more accurate tests. How accurate are the API liquid test kits? How accurate are the Quick Dip test strips? I had water that was tested with both, and the ph from the API liquid test was high, off the charts above 7.6. While the same water with the quick dip test strips showed a very low PH of 6.2. Are the quick dips really that far off?
 
Just a quick question, and perhaps an explanation. I've always thought the liquid test kits were the more accurate tests. How accurate are the API liquid test kits? How accurate are the Quick Dip test strips? I had water that was tested with both, and the ph from the API liquid test was high, off the charts above 7.6. While the same water with the quick dip test strips showed a very low PH of 6.2. Are the quick dips really that far off?

Never had any experience of test strips, but I have had rogue readings from API. I think residue from previous tests can affect the results so make sure it is rinsed with the water you're testing before taking a sample
 
Hmm, don't think our Petco sells tablet test kits.
 
The margin of error on the average user doing a liquid test has to be at least +- 10%. And maybe it is even as high as +- 25%. That is, if you read an ammonia reading as 2.0 ppm, +-10% is the reading is really between 1.8 ppm and 2.2 ppm. And it may even be as wide as 1.5 ppm and 2.5 ppm.

It may even be worse, since the color charts are typically exponential in nature. I.e. the ammonia color test goes 0.25 ppm, 0.5 ppm, 1.0 ppm, 2.0 ppm, 4.0 ppm, and 8.0 ppm. So when you say +-10% on an exponential curve the upper bound can be really high. I.e. +-10% on a reading of 2.0 ppm is probably between 1.8 ppm and 2.4 ppm -- where the higher bound is because there is two units between the color change on the upper side than the lower.

The errors are simply that only rarely does a color exactly match. So, it is a guess what the color is actually saying. And, then, a "drop" is not a terribly well calibrated unit of fluid. It depends on things like how tightly one squeezes the bottle, the temperature of the bottle and the air around it, and even a little bit on the humidity of the surrounding air.

So, as I said, I'd put error margins even as high as +-25% on any reading. In short, these aren't laboratory grade tests we are doing -- nor do we really want them to be. We really don't need very exact numbers. The presence of any ammonia and nitrite is a cause for concern. And, we don't need to know the pH much beyond +- 0.5 pH units for almost all purposes, nor degrees of hardness within a degree or two. To be successful, you really only need an idea of what is going on, only rarely are the exact details needed.
 
I'm more so wondering how it could be so off that the strip said 6.2 or below, and the liquid said 7.6 or above.
 
Well, look at what I just wrote. Consider each measurement +- 25%. 6.2 could be most anywhere between 4.7 and 7.7. 7.6 could be anywhere between 5.8 and 9.4. Lots of overlap there. Very easy to say that the real reading is probably somewhere around 7.

Also note that pH is really measuring a very small concentration. 6.2 corresponds to a reading of 0.000 000 631 moles H+ ions per liter. A reading of 7.6 corresponds to 0.000 000 052 moles per liter. Really tiny numbers. It is asking a lot for a very cheap test to measure very small numbers like that accurately.
 

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