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- May 19, 2022
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Kinda sorta plotting on how I'm going to fix my tank...
Looks like the LED lighting is failing. Some have gone dark and this evening... well, technically, I guess yesterday evening the lights started to flicker a little. The problem is that the lights are built into the hood and the hood is attached to the main body of the tank with hinges to lift. I haven't really looked close but I doubt that it would be a big deal to remove the hinges which would allow for removing the hood.
I THINK I have it figured out. I'll just go to a local hardware store and have a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch plexiglass cut to the size of the top of the tank and mount new lights on the new cover securing with a dab of silicone on each corner of the light. As long as the silicone will adhere to the plexiglass it should be fine and allow for removal of the new lights if needed in the future.
While the above should be fine I was concerned about a lack of tools to cut recesses in the plexiglass for running power cords and air lines. Since I'm living in an apartment I don't have tools for such things such as a router. Sat down and looked at what would be the simplest solution and it is actually pretty obvious. First I need to have spacers in the tank corners to raise the plexiglass as if it were flush on the tank the pressure from the air flow would cause it to slide around. Using 1/4 inch spacers would allow air to escape and would be enough to run the power cords and air lines. Again use silicone to adhere the power cables and air lines to the top of the tank to keep them in place and it would be done with no need to cut the plexiglass.
I can't see any fault with the above plan. My rope fish is an escape artist as they all are and a 1/4 inch gap would be too small for him to get through so that works. For feeding just slide the plexiglass a bit and dump food. Actually, as to water changes and other maintenance, this would even be better. Just remove the new hood and do stuff. The original hood is only hinged to open about 45 degrees which makes such things a bit awkward.
I hope that I'm not missing anything but I can't find any fault with my plans. There might be a problem with the lights reflecting off the surface of the water and shining on the walls but a can of black spray paint would solve that.![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
Anyone see any flaws in my thinking?
Looks like the LED lighting is failing. Some have gone dark and this evening... well, technically, I guess yesterday evening the lights started to flicker a little. The problem is that the lights are built into the hood and the hood is attached to the main body of the tank with hinges to lift. I haven't really looked close but I doubt that it would be a big deal to remove the hinges which would allow for removing the hood.
I THINK I have it figured out. I'll just go to a local hardware store and have a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 inch plexiglass cut to the size of the top of the tank and mount new lights on the new cover securing with a dab of silicone on each corner of the light. As long as the silicone will adhere to the plexiglass it should be fine and allow for removal of the new lights if needed in the future.
While the above should be fine I was concerned about a lack of tools to cut recesses in the plexiglass for running power cords and air lines. Since I'm living in an apartment I don't have tools for such things such as a router. Sat down and looked at what would be the simplest solution and it is actually pretty obvious. First I need to have spacers in the tank corners to raise the plexiglass as if it were flush on the tank the pressure from the air flow would cause it to slide around. Using 1/4 inch spacers would allow air to escape and would be enough to run the power cords and air lines. Again use silicone to adhere the power cables and air lines to the top of the tank to keep them in place and it would be done with no need to cut the plexiglass.
I can't see any fault with the above plan. My rope fish is an escape artist as they all are and a 1/4 inch gap would be too small for him to get through so that works. For feeding just slide the plexiglass a bit and dump food. Actually, as to water changes and other maintenance, this would even be better. Just remove the new hood and do stuff. The original hood is only hinged to open about 45 degrees which makes such things a bit awkward.
I hope that I'm not missing anything but I can't find any fault with my plans. There might be a problem with the lights reflecting off the surface of the water and shining on the walls but a can of black spray paint would solve that.
Anyone see any flaws in my thinking?