Ro/di Units

[nkd5024]

I REALLY need a new RO unit.
I am looking at the Captive Purity Deluxe 35 GPD 4-stage RO/DI.
I read a really good review on the brand in an advanced aquarist article.
I have heard that you should install small ball value on each of the output to keep the RO membrane wet, is this true?

My main concern is that, I just read RO membranes are destroyed by chlorine.
I don't actually understand how chlorine would destroy the membrane so if anyone knows, let me know.
It said that a carbon pre-filter would get rid of the chlorine and prevent it from destroying my RO membrane.

Will the Carbon Block pre-filter that comes with most RO/DI units remove ALL of the chlorine and chloramine?
Does anyone here use chlorinated tap water with their RO unit?

Also, is it necessary to have an in-line pressure gauge?
I would be replacing the Carbon and Sediment pre-filters for every 1,000 gallons produced as recommended by LiveAquaria.
Are there any other uses for a pressure gauge other than to tell when the pre-filters are getting clogged or to make sure you have enough pressure from your faucet?

I just brought my old RO unit up to my apartment, which has city tap water with chlorine/chloramine. It has always been at my parents house which has well water, so I don't know much about the whole chlorine thing.

Thanks you for you time,
Nick D.

 

[seffieuk]

I REALLY need a new RO unit.
I am looking at the Captive Purity Deluxe 35 GPD 4-stage RO/DI.
If you can go for a larger one, it will take ages to get 25 litres of water

I have heard that you should install small ball value on each of the output to keep the RO membrane wet, is this true?
Yes, its true, keeps water next to the membrane so it doesn't dry out

My main concern is that, I just read RO membranes are destroyed by chlorine.
I don't actually understand how chlorine would destroy the membrane so if anyone knows, let me know.

You dont need to worry, chlorine will be removed by a four stage ro unit Chlorine is a corrosive bleach, that is why it would effect the membrane, but it will be removed by the carbonIt said that a carbon pre-filter would get rid of the chlorine and prevent it from destroying my RO membrane.

Will the Carbon Block pre-filter that comes with most RO/DI units remove ALL of the chlorine and chloramine?

Yes, it should, also buy a TDS meter if there is not an inline one
Does anyone here use chlorinated tap water with their RO unit?
Yes, most of us in the uk would have chlorinated tapwater

Also, is it necessary to have an in-line pressure gauge?

Well, no, but it helps

 

[nkd5024]

Steffie,

The unit I have now is only 25 GPD and that is plenty fast for me, so 35 is even better!
I just run it nightly so I can have at least 15 or 20 gallons on hand.

For the ball values, do you just get 1/4" ones and put them inline with the colored blue and red tubing?
Or will PVC come into play here?

Should I even bother getting any de-chlorinator to keep around.
Currently, I have a Coralife 25 GPD 3 stage RO unit (Sediment and Carbon pre-filters but NO deionization), I just replaced both pre-filters about 3 months ago, but the RO membrane itself is around 4 years old.
I know it is WAYY over due to be replaced, which is why I'm looking to get a new one ASAP.

In your opinion, do you think my RO unit is capable of removing chlorine well enough to safely use the water in my aquarium?
I do not have a TDS meter and have just learned how cheap they are, but I am assuming that the TDS value of my RO water is in the 40-60ppm range.
Luckily I haven't had any problems with algae because of this, and am honestly starting to think that 15 or 20ppm RO water is perfectly fine to use, even though 0ppm will always be ideal.

I'm not up to date on my reading for a lot of the equipment, so thank you for your help steffie,
Nick D.

 

[seffieuk]

The unit I have now is only 25 GPD and that is plenty fast for me, so 35 is even better!
I just run it nightly so I can have at least 15 or 20 gallons on hand.

Cool

For the ball values, do you just get 1/4" ones and put them inline with the colored blue and red tubing?

Yes indeed

Should I even bother getting any de-chlorinator to keep around.

Nope, no need

Currently, I have a Coralife 25 GPD 3 stage RO unit (Sediment and Carbon pre-filters but NO deionization), I just replaced both pre-filters about 3 months ago, but the RO membrane itself is around 4 years old.
I know it is WAYY over due to be replaced, which is why I'm looking to get a new one ASAP.

If your unit is running fine, why replace it, why not just pop in a new membrane and stick on on di unit?

In your opinion, do you think my RO unit is capable of removing chlorine well enough to safely use the water in my aquarium?

Yes

I do not have a TDS meter and have just learned how cheap they are, but I am assuming that the TDS value of my RO water is in the 40-60ppm range.

Never presume anything - mine was runing in the hundreds

Luckily I haven't had any problems with algae because of this, and am honestly starting to think that 15 or 20ppm RO water is perfectly fine to use, even though 0ppm will always be ideal.

I would agree, better <10 though

Seffie x

 

[nkd5024]

I like you Steffie, I think that we think the same way about a lot of stuff.

Did you have to order the 1/4" ball values? I know my local home depot or lowes doesn't carry them, at least not in the plumping isle.

So you do think that even though it is 4 years old, it can remove all of the chlorine because of the new pre-filters?

I actually have no idea what the TDS would read at, I just wanted to throw a number in there, it probably is a lot higher than that.
I just have to find a place that sells really cheap TDS meters.

I am replacing the whole thing because a new RO membrane would run me about $80 - $100.
Then the Deionization would run me another $50 at least, bring the total to around $130.
hmmm. actually now that I went threw how much it would cost, I see that your right, it might be cheaper to just replace all the old parts in it.

How old was yours when it was running in the hundreds?

I'll look into the cost of just replacing the old part, but I have to ride my bike 8 miles to get to class right now so I'll let you know what I decide to do.

Thanks,
Nick

P.S. I'm glad to see that someone else agrees with me about not NEEDING 0ppm dissolved solids to be successful. But it would be really nice, haha.

 

[seffieuk]

As long as you put in a new membrane then yes - what I meant about the TDS, my tapwater was in the hundreds after going through the pre-filters, the mebrane and the di unit - bingo 0 woo hoo


Seffie x

 

[nkd5024]

Nice, I would love to have the reassurance of knowing that my Ro was producing 0ppm DTS.

I'll have to see what ThatFishPlace or some other stores offer before deciding whether to replace the whole unit or just the membrane and get a DI filter for it.
I have a 30% off coupon for one item at That FishPlace so it might just be around the same price?
Plus, apparently the freshwater guys tell me it alright to use tap water for freshwater tanks, but I would feel like I was sentencing them to their death by adding tap water in there.
So maybe I could just use the water from my old RO unit for the freshwater tank I am going to setup.
I am pretty sure that even after a few more years my old RO unit will still be able to take out heavy metals and any minute drugs in the tap water, while leaving most of everything decent.
Although it would be kind of nice to have PURE water for the fresh water tank so I could buffer to the exact pH I want, so long story short, I have no idea what I want to do yet.

Thanks Seffie,
Nick D.

 

[seffieuk]

so long story short, I have no idea what I want to do yet.

have fun making your choices, I always love the planning time

Mind you, thinking about the ro water and fresh water fish, don't you have to add something back in to make it ok for fresh water or is that just drinking water......ehhhhhhhh my head hurts

Seffie x

 

[kj23502]

I have heard that you should install small ball value on each of the output to keep the RO membrane wet, is this true?

sorry seffie. I beg to differ. I don't have a valve on mine and I unhooked my ro unit last March and just hooked it back up a couple weeks ago. It's still putting out 0 tds. I did not drain the unit and left it full of water. I did flush the membrane for about 10g of water before I got water to test. I'm now buying a dual in-line tds meter to make it easier to detect what's going back in the future. The membrane or my Di.

My main concern is that, I just read RO membranes are destroyed by chlorine.
I don't actually understand how chlorine would destroy the membrane so if anyone knows, let me know.
It said that a carbon pre-filter would get rid of the chlorine and prevent it from destroying my RO membrane.

Will the Carbon Block pre-filter that comes with most RO/DI units remove ALL of the chlorine and chloramine?
Does anyone here use chlorinated tap water with their RO unit?

I have catalytic carbon to take care of the chloramines along with a carbon block and micron filter.

Also, is it necessary to have an in-line pressure gauge?

This will help get you optimum performance. Also I wouldn't want to be Blasting my ro unit of the water pressure is too great from your city system.

I would be replacing the Carbon and Sediment pre-filters for every 1,000 gallons produced as recommended by LiveAquaria.

I will replace my items when my tds meters tell me to.

Are there any other uses for a pressure gauge other than to tell when the pre-filters are getting clogged or to make sure you have enough pressure from your faucet?

Don't believe so, but I could be wrong.

I just brought my old RO unit up to my apartment, which has city tap water with chlorine/chloramine. It has always been at my parents house which has well water, so I don't know much about the whole chlorine thing.

Thanks you for you time,
Nick D.

Your welcome

 

[nkd5024]

Steffie, I also enjoy the planning part of the hobby, but for some reason I love to set up tanks.
Its my favorite part. I can't wait till I have everything I need and can starting putting it all together!

And yes you do have to add back minerals for fresh water fish, I have a bottle of Kent RO Right, which is used to give the water some basic hardness and stabilize the pH.
I think using RO water would be good for freshwater as it would be a lot easier to add the required buffer when its still RO water to get the required pH for whatever type of fish you have. I think it would make things a little simpler.

KJ,

Your lucky that your RO unit didn't fall over and drain all of the water out of the membrane. After doing more research on the topic, it is actually really important that the membrane stays wet.
And apparently it is also not good to let them sitting idle to too long without running some water through the unit. I read that bacteria can actually grow in the stagnant water surrounding the membrane which can eventually do damage.
I would rather be safe and get three little ball valves and throw them on there, I mean how much could three 1/4" ball valves cost when 1" ones only cost around a dollar?

I found that Home Depot carries small faucet pressure gauges for around $7, so I am just going to test the pressure of my faucet and if its off, either turn down the water or look into a pump for the unit.
Does anyone recommend the in-line TDS meters that can be hooked up right to the RO unit, or the electronic dipper type of tester? Does it really matter? I kind of like that the dipping ones are portable.

Thanks,
Nick D.

 

[kj23502]

I was super careful with my ro unit haha it's one of the most important pieces of equipment I have. It had it's own special box even I know if the membrane dries out it's toast. That's why I left it full and it sure was heavy being a 5 chambered unit! I don't think bacteria can grow in our water. Not sealed and non-exposed water. That's why they treat it with all the horrid chemicals...they even put chloroform in our water...ick!

yes I recommended the inline tds, haha! I actually have a dipper too. I want the convenience have having an inline after the membrane and di. Much easier. I have 3 kids and a household to run so easier for me is better.

 

[nkd5024]

Not as convient to just dip a portable tester in the bucket of RO water?
I bet with three kids anything that makes life easier is a god sent.

I dunno, bacteria can grow almost anywhere.
Plus a lot the chemicals used to "protect" us from bacteria are a pointless effort and actually do much more harm than good, as bacteria can very quickly develop a resistance to many of the different chemicals, such as triclosan.

 

[kj23502]

Here's a pic of my unit from the other day. New tds meter and pressure gauge installed. New gauge is the one in back.