Reducing The Amount Of C02 In The Tank

[macmiller]

I have two planted 24" aquariums, and recently tested the amount of C02 in the water with a Dymax C02 indicator (tester). It consistently shows too much C02.

Also, a side problem is with algae growth. Would this be a side effect of two much C02?

I have the C02 bubbling though the bubble counter at about 1 bubble per 3 seconds. The needle valve on the regulator doesn't seem to allow or be accurate once the flow is restricted down much below this level.

My thinking was, could I just put the C02 on a separate timer and run them say 4 hours a day (instead of the current 8 hours which corresponds to the hours the tanks are lighted)? Is this a good solution or are there other suggestions?

 

[aaronnorth]

High CO2 helps keep algae away, have a look in my sig and see what type you have.

What time does the CO2 come on and go off?
What time does the lighting come on and go off?

How many hours into the photoperiod does the drop checker turn yellow?

 

[macmiller]

Thanks for getting right back to me. I am such a newbie, it really helps to get feedback. I've also started going through the pinned articles and am learning a lot.....

The algae type looks like: Green Dust Algae, GDA, which is only forming on the glass, there is no other signs of algae in the tank.

The lights + C02 come on at 8 AM and go off at 6 PM each day during the week. One other interesting point is there are now two tanks of 19.32 gallons, one is high light and one is low light. The high light is powered by 4 24 watt bulbs. The low light is powered by 2 10 watt bulbs, it is underlit and I am in the process of buying another lighting outfit. They both are displaying the same problem with the algae growth on the glass. The plants in the highly lit aquarium are growing fast, in the low light aquarium there is a bunch of java fern which is really growing, but many of the plants are showing signs of lack of lightl.

The test kit, Dymax C02 Indicator, is one where you add 5 drops of a solution in there and mix it with the water from the aquarium and then affix it to the side. It immediately turns like an orageish yellow (taken as too much C02) and then essentially remains in that shade. After a while it goes clear which I assume it when the testing agent needs to be reapplied.

 

[aaronnorth]

Well there is a problem, you shouldnt be using your tank water, because that is basically giving a ph test.

WHat you should do is fill it with 4dkh solution, then add 3 drops of the colour indicator (bromothymol blue).AS the CO2 gasses off from the water into the drop checker it changes the ph of the solution inside. So when it lowers to a ph of 6.6, and the kh is constantly 4 degrees, you will have aproximatley 30ppm of CO2.

Try this before changing anything else in the tank.

 

[SuperColey1]

The algae type looks like: Green Dust Algae, GDA, which is only forming on the glass, there is no other signs of algae in the tank.

this is reasonably normal but could be due to low phosphates.

The low light is powered by 2 10 watt bulbs, it is underlit and I am in the process of buying another lighting outfit. In the low light aquarium there is a bunch of java fern which is really growing, but many of the plants are showing signs of lack of light.

They shouldn't be showing signd of lack of light under 1WPG!!! What type of lights are they? T8, T5??? 1WPG of T8 is fine for growing most plants slowly. I would guess that they are suffering from something else.

The test kit, Dymax C02 Indicator, is one where you add 5 drops of a solution in there and mix it with the water from the aquarium and then affix it to the side. It immediately turns like an orageish yellow (taken as too much C02) and then essentially remains in that shade. After a while it goes clear which I assume it when the testing agent needs to be reapplied.

Like Aaron says there is no point in using tank water. You have to use a know reference solution to reach a valid assumption on the CO2 content via a Ph reading.

One thing that confuses me is you say that you add the solution and it immediately turns an orangeish yellow!! If you were to refill your DC even using tank water when the CO2 isn't injecting this shouldn't be the case!!! Are you running CO2 24/7?

I would be expecting your injection rate on the high light to be closer to 4 bubbles per second and on the low light 1-2 bubbles per second and not the 20 per minute you are currently using to reach 30ppm (green)

AC

 

[macmiller]

Thanks for all the info. I don't believe I can continue with the current C02 tester, seems like something doesn't quite make sense. It is the Dymax C02 Indicator, on the directions it says as step 2 Fill Aquarium water slowly into the test vial till the water level reaches the line (step one is to add 5 drops of C02 test solution to the test vial).

WHat you should do is fill it with 4dkh solution, then add 3 drops of the colour indicator (bromothymol blue).

I have no idea what is in the C02 test solution and am not sure what 4dkh solution is or about the colour indicator. My test kit only came with one solution.

One thing that confuses me is you say that you add the solution and it immediately turns an orangeish yellow!! If you were to refill your DC even using tank water when the CO2 isn't injecting this shouldn't be the case!!! Are you running CO2 24/7?

I would be expecting your injection rate on the high light to be closer to 4 bubbles per second and on the low light 1-2 bubbles per second and not the 20 per minute you are currently using to reach 30ppm (green)

The bubbles are coming out at 1 bubble for each 3 seconds and the C02 is only on from 8AM to 6PM.

They shouldn't be showing signd of lack of light under 1WPG!!! What type of lights are they? T8, T5??? 1WPG of T8 is fine for growing most plants slowly. I would guess that they are suffering from something else.

Again sorry for my ignorance will find out about the bulbs. Some of the plants look fine, but others that are both in the high light situation and low light situation seem to look at lot better and growing faster in the high light situation.

 

[aaronnorth]

I have no idea what is in the C02 test solution and am not sure what 4dkh solution is or about the colour indicator. My test kit only came with one solution.

The solution that come with your kit will be the colour indicator. You can buy 4dkh solution from here: http/www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.php?...roducts_id=1977

 

[SuperColey1]

Even the glass ones from the far east on ebay say use tank water. Its a common problem but easily remedied.

What is your normal tank Ph (before CO2 starts) and what is your Ph when the CO2 switches off?

AC

 

[macmiller]

Even the glass ones from the far east

Yes, I am in the far east, which may account for the problem with the instructions........ I will try to find 4dkh solution here (OK see it isn't) and also get a PH test kit in the next week or so. Also, will track down more info on my lighting setup (as far as the type of bulbs, as all I know now is the wattage). Thx for the help.....

 

[aaronnorth]

I have just written this guide which may help: http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=268972

 

[macmiller]

Yes this is very very helpful, I am now tracking with you. I will update this thread when I get a better test of my C02 level.

Thanks for taking the time to put this up.