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Question about Ich

essjay

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Just a thought...
If warmer 30C water could kill parasites like this, is it likely to kill off beneficial bacteria as well especially working alongside all the large water changes and filter clean?
It shouldn't. The optimal temperature for cycling is up to 29 deg C so if they can multiply quickly at 29 deg C, 30 won't harm them.
 

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Fish rubbing on objects in a tank can be any external protozoan infection, not just whitespot.

Protozoan parasites like Costia, Chilodonella and Trichodina will cause fish to flash/ rub on things in the tank. Water changes will regularly dilute the number of these organisms in the water and the infection will sometimes stop there (no more rubbing).
I agree. But in probably 90% or more of the cases with newly acquired fish it will be ich.
 

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Hi, I have not personally got any evidence of this, it is in fact a friend of mine wondering why 50 percent of his fish are rubbing and scratching on surfaces, a couple of his neon tetras have shown signs of tiny white specs on their dorsal fins and has said they are much less active than usual and huddling in a group instead of swimming around.

I just said to turn the heat up to 30 for a couple of weeks anddo a 50 percent water change every day, and that it might be game over for the tetras with spots.

Are their any fish that will definitly not withstand 30 degree C out of interest?
This is ich from your description, and the heat is fine (the tetras and pleco mentioned subsequently are OK). Heat for two weeks is much different that permanent heat. Years ago before I had an air conditioner, my tanks woould get up close to 90F during heat waves, and for the several days; I lost no fish.
 

Colin_T

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Just a thought...
If warmer 30C water could kill parasites like this, is it likely to kill off beneficial bacteria aswell especially working alongside all the large water changes and filter clean?
The warmer water will not harm the beneficial filter bacteria, which are different to the protozoans that cause white spot.

Water changes do not affect filter bacteria because the bacteria live on hard surfaces like filter sponges, noodles, ceramic beads and gravel.

Cleaning an established filter will not affect the filter bacteria unless you wash the filter media/ materials under tap water, and the bacteria are exposed to chlorine/ chloramine for a period of time.

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The reason you do a big water change, gravel clean and clean the filter is to reduce the number of white spot parasites in the tank. This buys the fish more time until the heat can kill the parasites.
 

seangee

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Just a thought...
If warmer 30C water could kill parasites like this, is it likely to kill off beneficial bacteria aswell especially working alongside all the large water changes and filter clean?
No its fine. The only thing to consider is that higher tems mean less oxygen in the water. So make sure there is some surface agitation.
 
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Tttay89

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salt is without question the safest additive. Most fish can tolerate salt before they can tolerate any of the so-called "treatments."
He has just sent me a photo of "Aquarium salt" from API.. Is this the kind of salt you mean?
 

Byron

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He has just sent me a photo of "Aquarium salt" from API.. Is this the kind of salt you mean?
Yes. Aquarium Salt (API, probably other brands too) is pure sea salt. Never use table salt (it can contain other chemicals) and do not use marine or rift lake salt as these are mineral salts and not pure "salt" sodium chloride.

But I would not use salt here, not yet anyway; the heat really will deal with this most of the time. Very stubborn ich may require salt as well, but do not jump into using salt.
 

Deanasue

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I am treating a fish with ich right now. I rescued him because he had a few spots of Ich. I do both the 86F and a little salt. I never have ich in my house and really thought long and hard about bringing him home but he deserved a chance. Just be sure not to cross contaminate the tanks by using the same equipment without sterilizing it and drying it out well.
 
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Tttay89

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An update on this, he turned his temperature up and has performed 4x 50% water changes, used no medication or salt, and all symptoms seem to have cleared... No scratching fish or white specs visable on any of his fish,
Should he return the tank temp back to normal gradually now and continue with weekly water changes? Or give it another week of 30c and daily changes just incase.
 

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An update on this, he turned his temperature up and has performed 4x 50% water changes, used no medication or salt, and all symptoms seem to have cleared... No scratching fish or white specs visable on any of his fish,
Should he return the tank temp back to normal gradually now and continue with weekly water changes? Or give it another week of 30c and daily changes just incase.
Give it two weeks in total, meaning two full weeks at the elevated temperature, then turn the heater down and let it return to the normal lower temp gradually. There is less likelihood that one or two will get through with two weeks.
 
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