Please Help - Lost 3 Fish Already

[Aquapotts]

PLEASE HELP - LOST 3 FISH ALREADY

Tank size: 60 litre (Biorb 90)
pH: 7.6
ammonia: 0.25
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 10-15ppm
tank temp: 26C/80F
water changes: 30% water changes weekly

Current Tank inhabitants today: 4 Guppies (3 since Sept 09, 1 since Mar 09)
4 Harlequin Rasbora (3 since Sept 09, 1 since Mar 09)
Lots of unwanted tiny snails.

Recent problems: I recently had a guppy die from dropsy, he was kept in the tank and only transferred in to my hospital tank at the very last stage before he died. I tested water and everything was fine, waited 1 week and then introduced 4 new fish - 2 guppies and 2 harlequins. Within 3 days I lost a new guppy and a new harlequin to what I believe was Mouthrot or Columnaris (I'm finding it difficult to know which, but both fish had mouth erosions).

Current problems: Today one of the older guppies is staying at the top of the tank and not eating, it also appears that his top lip is starting to erode and also displaying some early signs of dropsy (bloated, slightly bent spine). The surviving new guppy has a slightly eroded tail.

What I've done so far: I have tested the water conditions - all okay as above. A 30% water change was done 2 days ago and have been adding daily dose of API's Melafix for the last 3 days. Can somebody please help me ASAP.

My questions:
1. Do I need to put the sick guppy in my hospital tank? I have a 9 litre starter tank with it own heater and noisy filtration/airation.

2. What treatment should I be using (on single fish or whole tank)? I read somewhere that a combination of Melafix & Pimafix might help...

3. Are my water conditions and temperature right?

4. Why is this happening, how can I stop it?

5. Anything else that I need to know or do...

PLEASE HELP

Thanks.

 

[WILDER]

Keep preforming water changes.
Do you over feed.

Last stage of dropsy is when the scales stick, organ failure.
Fish rarely survive.
Once the mouth start to rot it best to put the fish out of it's misery.

For columnaris, false name mouth rot. Myxazin by waterlife and pimafix.

 

[Aquapotts]

Thanks.

Just been to my LFS and bought some Pimafix as I had read about this too. I haven't got any Myxazin (and I'm not sure they stocked it), do I need both?

Should I discontinue use of Melafix and just use Pimafix for now, or both?

Water stats are still good and the LFS confirmed this too, though a bit unsure why the ammonia has risen to 0.25? I will keep going with the water changes.

It could be that I possibly have been overfeeding, I fed a couple of pinches of flake food twice a day?

Also, the LFS though that the number of small snails might be the cause if they are dying and getting stuck in the Biorb media. I've bought some Interpet Anti-Snail treatment - but presume I can't use this until everything else is sorted?

FISH UPDATE: Pimafix has gone in, guppy still staying at the top, but is active and swims down occassionally, no more physical signs other than eroded top lip. I'm keeping optimistic about this one.

 

[WILDER]

Keep doing water changes. Just add the correct amount of med back to water removed.
Keep using the melafix with the pimafix. Myxazin by waterlife better. But if you can't get it, I would try buying it online.

As for the snails. Sterilise a plastic pop bottle. Add some lettuce. Once the snails are in remove them.
Hold the bottle down by digging it in the substrate, or a plant weight held on with a rubber band.

 

[Aquapotts]

Keep doing water changes. Just add the correct amount of med back to water removed.
Keep using the melafix with the pimafix. Myxazin by waterlife better. But if you can't get it, I would try buying it online.

As for the snails. Sterilise a plastic pop bottle. Add some lettuce. Once the snails are in remove them.
Hold the bottle down by digging it in the substrate, or a plant weight held on with a rubber band.

Good idea about the snails, it's the first time I've heard that so will give it a try. Will update on the fish as anything changes.

 

[WILDER]

Rotting smails can become toxic to fish. So they need removing fast when there died.

 

[Aquapotts]

Well, the sad news is my fish didn't make it. He died yesterday.

I've had no luck with using my hospital tank so far - so this time I thought I'd put him in before he got too weak. However when I transferred him, he instantly took a turn for the worse. I was quite surprised at the sudden change. In the main tank he stayed near the surface constantly swimming, in the hospital tank he "sank" straight to the bottom and though he did swim around the whole tank occasionally, he spent about 80-90% of the time sat on the gravel.

The tank was set up about an hour before I transferred him, taking water from the main tank and maintaining it at the same temperature (possibly a degree lower). Is it possible I transferred him over too quickly? I've read that changes in water volume (specifically depth) can harm a fishes swim bladder? Could he have just become more stressed? Or maybe this was going to happen in the main tank anyway?

The reason I am asking, is that I now have another guppy who is not eating, staying near the top and I think may have an eroded top lip. Am I best to leave him in the main tank or should I get him out of the ASAP - what's the best way to use the hospital tank? Also, another guppy seems to be pestering him and nipping at he's side - is this more reason to isolate him?

 

[WILDER]

You have a bad bacteria infection. Columnaris also.

The third type of infection produced by Aeromonas is by no means the least. This form is often the most virulent (potent) and can be rapidly fatal. This insidious form does not produce any noticeable external ulcers. The most notable feature is a behavioral change in which the infected fish generally become listless and lethargic. Some fish may lose color or appear darker. The fish do not feed, frequently seem off balance and may sink to the bottom laying on their sides. The course of the disease is rapid, and by the time the behavioral changes are noticed, the entire population of a tank may succumb, sometimes in a day or so. This is an internal infection, with the bacteria being found in the kidneys and blood of these fish. The bacteria produce potent toxins that account for the severity of the disease.

yes I would issolate the fish.
Keep doing water changes on the main tank over the next few days.

 

[Aquapotts]

Thanks once again for your help.

The symptons you have described are sounding about right, so hopefully there's chance of some recovery yet. I'm just transferring my fish in to the hospital tank, using the same method as though he was coming from the pet shop and putting him in a bag and introducing "hospital tank" water in gradually - I'm not rushing it this time. So far there has been no major change in his behaviour since he was in the main tank, but still lethargic.

My hospital tank is a small rectangular 13 litre tank (as opposed to the 60 litre globe shaped biorb. I have a very basic sponge filter that is common in most "my first fish tanks", however I've noticed when using it previously the fish get pushed around quite a lot by the water movement and air bubbles (though it is barely noticeable when I put my hand in). There is a black tube type thing that comes from the box and if the end is above the water level it pushes through air, and if below, pushed water. The water option is much gentler and keeps the water surface moving - would you know is this sufficient? Is there anything else I can do to protect the fish from the water movement before I take him out of the bag?

Sorry for the added questions, but I've had no luck with my hospital tank at all...

 

[WILDER]

If the fish are struggling with the current it needs to be reduced.
Sometimes you can tie a knot in the tubbing to reduce flow.
Also you can buy plastic gang valves which help reduce the water flow if it's ran by an air pump.

 

[Aquapotts]

Well he's out of the bag and the current doesn't seem to be a problem now. I just need to keep an eye on the fish in the main tank in case any them get worse, it seems the Harlequins are much more resilient.

 

[WILDER]

Let me know how you get on if you don't mind.

 

[Aquapotts]

Just to let you know that this guppy survived the night, he's still not eating, but looks a good weight and his mouth has hardly eroded (though he constantly has it open).

But more bad news...

One of the two remaining guppies in the main tank hasn't been looking too good since last night. He also isn't eating - though unlike the other, his mouth doesn't have seemed to eroded at all. He however, is awfully thin and his face is quite red on one side and he does nothing but stay at the surface, seemingly oblivious to everything around him - I am in the process of adding him to the hospital tank, though I've bought a floating hatchery to keep him in as he looks so weak the current would definately push him about.

Also, I've just got hold of some Myxazin and reading about how to use it. I'd already put some Pimafix in this morning - does this mean I can't use this new one just yet? Or, should I be using a combination of Melafix, Pimafix and Myxazin?

 

[Aquapotts]

Unfortunately the thinner guppy that wasn't eating has passed away. I'd had him in the tank since the beginning, so I'm really shocked at how quickly these desease is taking out all of my fish.

The harlequins still seem to be avoiding this desease, so that's good news. I've got one final guppy still in the main tank, and one who isn't eating still in the hospital tank. Myxazin has now been added to both tanks, so we'll see what the morning brings.

 

[WILDER]

Guppys are not very hardy anymore due to all the in breeding.

Bless Him.
R.I.P.

Did he lose the weight due to not eating?
or was he abit on the thin side before he stopped eating.