Platy Parasites, We Think

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platy_mom

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Hello!

We have a 5 gallon aquarium with 2 platies (they belong to my 4 yr old, but we all enjoy them thoroughly). We set up the tank about 11 months ago, and the fellows have been living happily since then with no problems at all.

A few weeks ago we noticed some algae build up in the sides of the tank, so we went to petsmart and purchased a mystery snail and a moss ball. Before I put them in, I was encouraged to do a thorough cleaning of the tank by the petsmart staff member because I have really been doing very minimal gravel cleanings and partial water changes (once ever 2-3 months). So that's what I did ( I changed 50% of the water and vaccumed the gravel, wiped the insides of the tank, changed the filter, rinsed the fake plants, coral skeleton rock and the "fish house"). Then I put in our new snail and the moss ball.

2 days later, we noticed that one of the platies- peanut butter- had become emaciated and a little lethargic, though he was eating, but not ravenously like ususal. His scales appear normal, his fins are occasionally clamped, but otherwise he just looks super skinny. So super skinny that we could not tell if his back looks archer/curved or if its just because he's so thin. He's been smaller than the other platy for a few months, but he was not thin until very recently. It is frightening how quickly this happened to him. The bigger platy- orange bread- has started to pick on the little guy too.

The discovery was tragic to our 4 yr old. I called petsmart, the LFS, and did some online research. I came up with lots of ideas, but the two we figured most likely being fish TB and the other internal parasites. Since we can't do much about TB, I bought some general cure by API (metronidazole) and treated the tank. I took out the snail, since I don't know if the med is safe for him. The first 48 hours the emaciated fish acted a bit worse- swimming less, eating less. After the second dose, he seems to be improving some, more active and more hungry, even defending his food a bit. We've been feeding tiny bits to the fish every few hours to keep up the little guy's strength- same amount of food, just spread out. Also, both fish began pooing long, trailing red poo yesterday, something they've never done before, its always been grey and its short and falls off quickly with the very occasional trailing grey poo. Then today, they began to poo really long (4+ inches) whitish/translucent thin strands. I interpret this to be parasites.

I also gather that internal parasites are most effectively treated with internal medication instead of water meds since food meds reach the parasites better. I've been trying to track down either the jungle medicated antiparasite food or Gel-Tek Ultra Cure PX for 2 days and I've learned neither are produced anymore. A not so local petstore kindly offered to give me a tiny bit of their praziquantel to feed to my fish, but I called JEHM Co to ask them about the jungle or gel-tek product and the service rep told me I could easily mix my own medicated fish food with praziquantel and fenbendazole in a gelatin base with our platy's favorite food (a tropical fish flake). He said it was simple and many people do that. I don't think he realized I am treating 2 fish in a 5 gallon tank. But I ordered praziquantel and fenbendazole in hopes of treating these fish successfully out of love for my dear little son (and his fish).

Now that the history is briefly explained, my questions:

1) Could our problem really be parasites? Can parasites really emaciate a fish?
2) How do we know if its TB instead? or too?
3) Is TB really very contagious to people, especially children (I have clorox wiped the area around the tank and the outside of it and moved it where the baby can't tap it anymore)?
4) Will praziquantel and fenbendazole treat internal parasites effectively?
5) Can a medicated food really be made with ingredients at home and fed to our fish?
5b) How, exactly, can I make a medicated food as described above?
6) How often do I feed it and for how long and at what intervals to treat the problem?
7) Will these meds hurt our snail?
8) Do snails carry parasites? (my husband wonders if the snail will re-infect the platies once they are treated since he's out of the tank)
9) I have the snail in a 1.5 qt vase with a plastic lid loosely sitting on top. I change the water every other day and I feed him a snippet of algae pellet daily. How long can he live like this?
10) Are there other problems I need to consider- other bacterial infections, stress, etc, that could cause a fish to emaciate that quickly? What are the dynamics between introducing a snail and a moss ball to a happy home for 11 months? Is all this the snail's fault?

Thank you for any and all help! We dearly love our little wet friends and desire a long, pleasant and healthy life for them.

Sincerely, the platy_mom
 
1) Could our problem really be parasites? Can parasites really emaciate a fish? Yes. Very much so.
2) How do we know if its TB instead? or too? Very doubtful as it is extremely rare "coming from someone who has dealt with it" You should look at fish tb after all other options are exhausted.
3) Is TB really very contagious to people, especially children (I have clorox wiped the area around the tank and the outside of it and moved it where the baby can't tap it anymore)? I am on antibiotics for it now, but again...very rare. Parasites are more likely
4) Will praziquantel and fenbendazole treat internal parasites effectively? praziquantel is great, I have also fed food laced with metronidazole
5) Can a medicated food really be made with ingredients at home and fed to our fish? Yes, if your metronidazole is a powder you can mix some into defrosted frozen food and refreeze it. {brine shrimp}
5b) How, exactly, can I make a medicated food as described above?if your metronidazole is a powder you can mix some into defrosted frozen food and refreeze it. {brine shrimp}
6) How often do I feed it and for how long and at what intervals to treat the problem? I would feed once a day, and only the medicated food {normal amount} and start at 10 days, watching for improvements, their poo is the easiest thing to look for. White and stringy = still sick.
7) Will these meds hurt our snail? Possibly, my apple snail lived through it.
8) Do snails carry parasites? (my husband wonders if the snail will re-infect the platies once they are treated since he's out of the tank)
9) I have the snail in a 1.5 qt vase with a plastic lid loosely sitting on top. I change the water every other day and I feed him a snippet of algae pellet daily. How long can he live like this? Someone else will have to answer this one sorry.
10) Are there other problems I need to consider- other bacterial infections, stress, etc, that could cause a fish to emaciate that quickly? What are the dynamics between introducing a snail and a moss ball to a happy home for 11 months? Is all this the snail's fault?

This sounds like parasites to me. Watch them for any signs of flashing or flicking which would mean external parasites....the emaciation, and stringy poo sounds like internal parasites. The food is the best treatment.

Last point: Weekly water changes are recommended. 10-20% {I do 50% a week on my 75gallon, so a 5 gallon should be a breeze.} A 5 gallon is a little small for the apple snail. Possibly for the platies too, but the tank size wouldn't cause internal parasites.
 
Welcome to our forum platy_mom.
Something that jumps right out at me is the statement that you "changed the filter" That is a recipe for disaster. The bacteria responsible for keeping your tank free of ammonia live in that filter and now you have none. I would avoid using any medications at first and simply do a huge water change, not a tiny 50% one, with proper dechlorinator use. It is my bet that your remaining fish will look much better in less than 15 minutes after such a change. You now will need to obtain a testing kit to let you know how you are doing on ammonia and nitrites. For the next few weeks you will do a large water change every time that you see as much as 0.25 ppm of either ammonia or nitrite. When you no longer see those chemicals showing up, you can back off to a weekly 25% water change.
Filter media, the stuff that does the filtration, should never be replaced unless it is literally falling apart. Instead you simply rinse it out in the used water in your water change bucket and plunk it right back into your filter.
 
Thank you both FishFananatic04 and OldMan47!

Thank you FishFanatic04 for helping us to put the fish TB into perspective, and for the medication information, it has been greatly helpful.

OldMan47...our aquarium has a biowheel which is supposed to be the source for our good bacteria. The filter in our tank is a blue mesh with some activated charcoal in it. Should I really have left that in? I have never changed the biowheel. I actually change that filter everytime I change the water- should I not be doing that? I figured the activated charcoal would be exhuasted. We've never had a problem with nitrites coming up after we made it thru that initial start-up stage in the very beginning almost a year ago, despite my filter changes. I did buy a couple of test kits and the nitrites and ammonia are still very low and in the safe level. I will continue to test at least daily. Thank you for the warning. Even with our biowheel and the type of filter our tank uses, should I be only rinsing the filter?

link to our filter

The fish continue to poo out parasites at least once a day. Its been 5 days since I put in the metronidazole (we did both doses 48 hrs apart, followed by a 3/5 water change after another 48 hours). Peanut Butter seems to be looking much better. His body condition is improved- he's still thin, but not emaciated. No more clamped fins. My husband, who doesn't look at the fish 35 times a day, thinks he appears much better.

We will continue to monitor the water quality daily for a while, we WILL do weekly water changes from now on and I am still wondering about whether I should make my own medicated fish food to really rid them of the parasites.

Thank you both so much!

Sincerely, platy_mom
 
Glad things seem to be improving. If you don't touch the biowheel {which is very good} then you filter should be cycled still. What exactly did the ammonia and nitrites say? They should always be at zero.

When you start doing weekly water changes, you do not need to change the filter. I actually just rinse my cartridges in the old tank water that I take out...A good swish and rub down. If they still look functional then I pop them back in. You only need to replace the floss if it is too clogged to collect particles from the water anymore. Sounds like money savings right? :) Sometimes my cartridges go a few months.

If they are pooping white stringy poo, then I would try feeding them some food. I doubt it will hurt them, as it is often fed to new fish to insure they are healthy. That comes from a forum moderator here -Tolak. I hope they get better. I would feed them for 7-10 days once a day.


I am planning a a few days of food for new fish as well, after dealing with parasites.
 
Hi! The nitrites and ammonia where both zero yesterday, the nitrites were between zero and .5 ppm this AM (as precise as our test strips would read- they are Mardel 6-in-1) I did another 3/5 water change which brought nitrites down to zero again (at least test strip reads zero, since there is no scale on it between 0 and the next reading of .5). And I will test again tonight. The fish still look good, Peanut Butter is appearing to steadily improve, no more stringy poo so far today. I will rinse the filters from now on with weekly water changes until they appear fully clogged. What is floss?

Thanks again :) platy_mom
 

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