Planting Woes...

gearhead65

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Alright, here are all my planting issues. Maybe you guys can help me out. First off, my Java Moss. I find this hard to grow. I had some attached to a cave in a darker area of my tank and it started growing pretty long, but lately it seems as if its dying off. I had some in a bright area of the tank and while growth is good, so is the algae that likes to grow intertwined with it. It's an algae that is the same color but much thinner, not sure which it is. Is there a moss like Java Moss such as Taiwan Moss, Christmas Moss, etc, that is easier to grow?

Next, the Cabomba. From what I read this is a medium light plant which probably explains my issues, but I was told this grows like a weed and needs to be trimmed every week or so. I have seen no growth whatsoever in mine except for some lateral roots at first and now they have browned and shrunk back. However, the plants do seem to be alive at the moment.

Then we have Anacharis or Egeria Densa as it's known. It seems to be doing okay until it reaches a certain height and it stops growing. It has smaller shoots coming from the sides every so often but they are very skinny. Some of my Anacharis has just turned brown.

I have some moneywort too and at first it grew like a week toward the surface and started to rise above the surface about 1/2" and then it stopped growing. It's not dead, but it has stopped completely (as far as I can tell) and the shorter, same plants around it have not grown as tall either.

My Crypt Wendtii seems to be doing great though it may be too early to tell. It seems to have spread out laterally a lot and looks beautiful. The Corys expecially love to hide in the shade under the leaves.

My Java Fern is too new to tell what kind of growth it is experiencing since it hasn't changed a bit since I got it last week.

In conclusion, I'm sure most of this can be attributed to low light (1/2wpg) since I dose 2ml of Leaf Zone daily so there is not really a shortage of fert. I don't have a CO2 setup as that is not in the budget right now. However, at peak photosynthesis in the day my filters shut off for 1.5 hrs so the plants can get the most out of the CO2 in the water.
 
you turn your filters off for 1.5 hrs every day???? I cant understand why you're doing that...

Get some Seachem Excel and see how you go on with that. I'm on the same boat as you at the moment. My problem is not lack of light but lack of CO2.. I have just sent off for the Seachem Excel.

How long do you have your lights on for?

What size is your tank? How many fish?
 
However, at peak photosynthesis in the day my filters shut off for 1.5 hrs so the plants can get the most out of the CO2 in the water.

Have you read this somewhere or been told this? If so. you need different sources of info.

The filter will play no part in CO2 unlerss you are feeding your CO2 hose into it. You don't have CO2 and therefore the filter plays no part.

If it is to do with surface disturbance then lower the outlet a little bit but DO NOT turn it off.

Oxygen is important for the fish. Oxygen is also important for the bacteria colony in the filter. the filter keeps the circulation in the tank moving and therefore also anything carried within the water namely nutrient for the plants whether it be added or natural from fish waste or left over food.

LEAVE THE FILTER ON!!!

Can we have a pic of the tank and the details requested from the poster above please.

AC
 
Can we have a pic of the tank and the details requested from the poster above please.

AC


Sorry for the delay, will do asap! Been using internet on my phone so as soon as i'm back at my desk i'll get the full tank shots! BTW, my lighting is definitely 2 x 20 watts. I have only recently replaced them. I have ordered some Seachem Excel...
 
Can we have a pic of the tank and the details requested from the poster above please.

AC


Sorry for the delay, will do asap! Been using internet on my phone so as soon as i'm back at my desk i'll get the full tank shots! BTW, my lighting is definitely 2 x 20 watts. I have only recently replaced them. I have ordered some Seachem Excel...
you will not get no major improvements , its a low tech tank things will grow slow and you will have algae issues from time to time . increased ferts will help better circulation will help but you will never achieve hi tech results in a low tech tank .
 
However, at peak photosynthesis in the day my filters shut off for 1.5 hrs so the plants can get the most out of the CO2 in the water.

Have you read this somewhere or been told this? If so. you need different sources of info.

The filter will play no part in CO2 unlerss you are feeding your CO2 hose into it. You don't have CO2 and therefore the filter plays no part.

If it is to do with surface disturbance then lower the outlet a little bit but DO NOT turn it off.

Oxygen is important for the fish. Oxygen is also important for the bacteria colony in the filter. the filter keeps the circulation in the tank moving and therefore also anything carried within the water namely nutrient for the plants whether it be added or natural from fish waste or left over food.

LEAVE THE FILTER ON!!!

Can we have a pic of the tank and the details requested from the poster above please.

AC

I got that information from this site:
http://www.azgardens.com/c-173-free-aquarium-secrets.aspx


Now let’s talk about Filters on timers. This is something our company has pioneered for 20 years. Putting your HOB filter, Air Pump, etc on a timer to turn off everyday for an hour at the 6th hour of its programmed light will be extremely effective in allowing better absorption of CO2 during the peak hour of photosynthesis. Example: If your lights turn on at Noon, and turn off at Midnight, your peak photosynthesis occurs at 6pm until 7pm, so your filters/pumps that create surface disturbance will be on a timer to turn off at 6pm and right back on at 7 or 7:30. Example B: If your lights turn on at 5am and off at 5pm, your peak photosynthesis time is at….11am until 12 or 12:30pm. Now you get it.

Did you know: that by turning off your filter for this short 1 or 1.5 hour period of time, you are allowing your pump to have a cool-off period everyday and ultimately extend the life of that accessory!
 
you turn your filters off for 1.5 hrs every day???? I cant understand why you're doing that...

Get some Seachem Excel and see how you go on with that. I'm on the same boat as you at the moment. My problem is not lack of light but lack of CO2.. I have just sent off for the Seachem Excel.

How long do you have your lights on for?

What size is your tank? How many fish?

I have my lights on for 12 hours, from 10am to 10pm with moonlights before and after "daylight" hours. It's a 30 gallon tank with a large molly, 16 fry, 4 cory cats, 2 SAEs, 2 female swordtails, a female Betta and an Amano shrimp
 
OK. I have a brief idea what I am facing now. That site is garbage!!! I have flicked through a few parts of it and then gave up. Stuff we were listening to/reading years ago and even then was being dismissed.

I'll start by saying I have no doubt at all that your tubes are 20W. Hagen tubes nearly always are. however I am asking what the ballast is!!! I have a Fluval (Hagen) tank and it had 2 x 20W when I bought it. However the ballast was 2 x15W..

Therefore yes I had 40W tube capacity but only 30W power going into them, hence my question.

Now onto that site:

It is a shop!!! Shops like to sell things :)

It says 'you always need to change tubes once a year no matter what tubes they are' - Erm Nope.

Maybe true for your lights as they are T8 and more likely than not your ballast is a magnetic (electric) and therefore it wears tubes out pretty quickly. Old technology.

However their statement ' no matter what tubes' is absolute BS. I read that and immediately knew these guys are way behind thinking. (or want sales ;) )

A T5 light or T5HO will almost in all cases be running on an electronic (not electric) ballast. this will mean the tubes degrade in the region of 5% over 40% of their life. We are therefore talking 2-3 years at the minimum with only 5% loss. A T8 on an electronic (not electric) ballast will be the same 2-3 years minimum with only 5% loss.

Next they are talking about 12 hours photoperiod. Ask anybody in the planted scene and they are going to say 8 to 10 hours.

When they say the most expensive fixtures are T5HO then this really does ring alarm bells. They must've written this 4 year+ ago. I think we can all concede that the most ecpensive lighting is plasma or LED.

T5HO is pretty cheap now. Sometimes cheaper than T8 due to the mass production these days where T8 is considered 'old hat'.

Then they go onto your CO2 bit turning off the filter. They talk about a photosynthesis 'peak' period at 6 hours. I have no idea where this research came from. lol.

Plants do most of their work in the first few hours.

Some people only have the lights on for 4 hours. Some only inject CO2 for the first few hours. Therefore if 'peak' is 6 hours then these guys would be in trouble. Needless to say they aren't

My advice would be to forget that site. Listen to people who know the reality rather than those who know how to make you buy product.

I haven't read through all of the article. It would probably render me unable to complete the work I need to do due to fits of laughter.

Hope this clears a few things up.

Read the pins on here. However be aware that although they are more up to date than the site you linked to there are some aspects that are already out of date a little.

Forgive me if this sounds like I am having a go at you. It isn't your fault. We take information on these sites as advice from 'people in the know' however there are 'people in the know' and 'people who think they are in the know'.

These guys need to do a little research as the hobby is moving on with incredible pace with regard to research these days. Myths are being busted on a weekly basis.

Hope that clears it up a little :)

AC
 
The guy above has the answer :)

Ask Ianho how I grow it. He picked some up today.

He will tell you I had it in a pot of water on a windowsill.

Java moss is the easiest, most hard to kill 'plant' out. All it needs is water and then replace water every week or 2 which replenishes the nutrients.

In a fish tank with fish waste, excess food, water changes (and fert dosing if applicable) then this is not a problem. nutrient is permanently being replenished.

AC
 
The guy above has the answer :)

Ask Ianho how I grow it. He picked some up today.

He will tell you I had it in a pot of water on a windowsill.

Java moss is the easiest, most hard to kill 'plant' out. All it needs is water and then replace water every week or 2 which replenishes the nutrients.

In a fish tank with fish waste, excess food, water changes (and fert dosing if applicable) then this is not a problem. nutrient is permanently being replenished.

AC

It dies in my tank, LOL! What about the other mosses (Taiwan, Christmas, etc)? Are they any easier/harder to grow?
 
They're all the same in terms of ease of growing. Some others like Taiwan and Christmass are supposedly faster growing but that of course means it will also die quicker if oyu are having trouble growing the 'slower' growing mosses :(

AC
 
And your lighting has nothing to do with it, plenty of hard to grow plants can be grown in low light if they have enough nutrients and co2. So if you dose properly the java moss should grow very well.
 

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