Ph Disaster

[rdd1952]

There's no way you can be sure that the problem won't still be there after cycling. If his water has no buffering capacity, it could still drop once he is cycled and has fish. You are correct that both add buffering capacity but when you do a water change, you must add baking soda back to buffer the added water. The crushed coral is already there and will take care of it without any more being added.

 

[koinukun]

I think the pH will still be dropping after my cycling is complete because after I changed the water heaps I stopped putting in any ammonia and the levels of nitrites and nitrates were all at 0ppm but still the pH dropped. I'm using the bicarb soda at the moment to get my cycle back on track.

I was wondering if shell grit, the stuff you give to birds would be an acceptable substitute for crushed coral, or just some crushed oyster shells? I'm on a bit of a budget and lots of other websites have said you can use seashells to buffer the water?

I will only use the bicarb to get my cycle back on track. I think putting the shells/coral in the water would be a better longterm solution rather than have to constantly put bicarb in the water and have the pH fluctuate while the fish are in the tank. Saves me constantly stressing and testing the water and saves the fish from any stress and illness that may result in the constant fluctuations.

All in all this has been a very interesting experience and I have learned more about the science of water than in all my high school and college education!

thanks!

koinukun~

 

[Amunet]

I had the same problem as you. The pH in my tanks when cycling was well below what it should've been and totally stopped the cycling process. I tryed using coral, but I dunno why, it didn't work for me. Not saying it won't for you, but that was my experience (now we're stuck with a big bag of unused coral heh)
So I just ended up using baking soda and it worked like a charm.
I add in a little bit after every water change and have never had a problem w/ my fish getting stressed out or anything.

Anywho! I hope everything works out for you!

 

[rdd1952]

Shells should also work as will any type limestone based rocks. If you go that route, just add them slowly so you don't cause a hugh jump in your levels.

 

[Matt_northants]

There's no way you can be sure that the problem won't still be there after cycling. If his water has no buffering capacity, it could still drop once he is cycled and has fish. You are correct that both add buffering capacity but when you do a water change, you must add baking soda back to buffer the added water. The crushed coral is already there and will take care of it without any more being added.

But only until the coral's supply of calcium carbonate is exhausted, as each time you do a water chage it is removed the same as the bicarb. The main difference is that the crushed coral gives a false sense of security, you see it in the net and you think everything is fine even though it may have become exhausted. But with bicarb you add enough to the replacement water so that its KH is the same as that of the main tank. With both methods the key to success is adequete testing to ensure that the KH level is stable and at a high enough level to prevent a pH crash.

 

[backtotropical]

There's no way you can be sure that the problem won't still be there after cycling. If his water has no buffering capacity, it could still drop once he is cycled and has fish. You are correct that both add buffering capacity but when you do a water change, you must add baking soda back to buffer the added water. The crushed coral is already there and will take care of it without any more being added.

But only until the coral's supply of calcium carbonate is exhausted, as each time you do a water chage it is removed the same as the bicarb. The main difference is that the crushed coral gives a false sense of security, you see it in the net and you think everything is fine even though it may have become exhausted. But with bicarb you add enough to the replacement water so that its KH is the same as that of the main tank. With both methods the key to success is adequete testing to ensure that the KH level is stable and at a high enough level to prevent a pH crash.

I agree Matt, but it will usually take at least 2-3 years to exhaust the coral gravel. It would be my preferred option because it almost takes care of itself.

Testing is the key though, i couldn't agree more, although more so with bicarb of soda. You would only need to start testing the corals buffering capacity after 2-3 years, and with the bicarb it would really need to be regular, maybe once or twice per week, and certainly at every water change.

IMO, bicarb is more expense and more work for the same result.