Ph Adjustment

[chrismr]

Ok, the water from my tap is ph7.2, 8Kh. As my primary interest is the keeping of dwarf cihlids, most of which prefer a lower ph for spawning, I would like to take the ph down.

Now, I know there are lots of different options out there. Some people use peat, some people use hp adjusters, and I have even seen some people write articles where they simply used phosphoric acid...

Personally, I will only go with either peat or a ph adjuster.

I am currently looking at "API proper ph 6.5", but it is hard to find specifics on exactly how this works when adding to the aquarium. I am worried about a sudden drastic drop in ph which could harm fish. Or does this product lower the ph at an acceptable rate for the fish?

Then there is peat, which I think is probably the better option. Does the amount of peat added determine the effect it has on the water? Are peat granules any better than peat fibre?

 

[Seb R]

I'm currently using peat to lower my pH from about 7.5, its slow and turns the water a browny colour, but I think its a good option. If the tank isn't set up you could go with the acid option, pouring a load of acid would probably do alot of harm. I have never found the pH adjusters do much for me, although the fish don't mind them.

 

[a.d.wood]

Hi there,

pH is just 1 factor you will need to consider. The other major factor is the hardness of the water (and probably more critical). For breeding these guys do best with soft water (although a few varieties such as Apisto cactuoides will spawn in slightly harder water).

As far as I understand the pH adjusters will not alter the GH/KH of the water so your long term goal of succesful spawing will probably not happen if you just change the pH.

You're best bet would be to consider using RO water to get the correct water parameters.

Andrew

 

[chrismr]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that RO water is just not likely for me... I have no way of getting the stuff from the lfs to home, and don't have the space to buy a home kit...

If my water measured 8Kh, is that hard?

Does peat not also work to lower the hardness?

 

[a.d.wood]

Hi there,

Peat will lower the pH, but slowly, and its overall effect will depend on where you start from.

KH > 8, what's the GH (KH is only the temporary/carbonate hardness).

I'm going to guess that with that KH, you're GH will be around the 12 mark. If that's the case, then yes, I would class this as moderately hard water.

For breeding apisto's you should be looking at a GH of below 4 to stand any chance of success.

But as said above, you might be succesful with some of the tank bred strains (eg Apisto cacatuoides).

Andrew

 

[chrismr]

Not sure if this is a completely stupid idea, but.....

mineral water that can be bought from stores.... whereas I am sure they will all vary, should they not generally be good enough to use?

If so, that would solve my problem as I could get it delivered...

 

[a.d.wood]

Hi there,

No ideas are stupid, just sometimes they don't help

Mineral water I think will not help, as generally this is water that has naturally filtered through limestone or similar for it's 'health/mineral' content (unless of course you're a large drinks manufacture that tries to pull a fast one (Dasani was the name they used!!!) on the consumer).

It might be an idea to get a bottle and check the GH/KH, but you would have no guarantee that every bottle you get over an extended period met the same results as the first bottle.

You can get small RO units that fit under the sink, have a look at RO Man

Andrew

 

[chrismr]

Yeah, have just been doing some research on mineral water, and discovered it is filtered through limestone...

However, one I found had the correct ph I am aiming for... but still there is the question of hardness. Like you suggested I will get hold of some and test it.

Does anybody know where in the UK i am able to order RO water to get it delivered?

The space under my kitchen sink will just not permit even a small RO unit. it is completely full

 

[a.d.wood]

Hi there,

I don't now of anyone in the aquatic trade that delivers RO water, chances are carriage costs would be prohibitive.

Just a thought though, check the car parts people (halfords etc). Battery top up water is normally either RO or deionised (as scale build up will damage the metal plates inside the battery)...

Andrew

 

[kamel_007]

Ok, the water from my tap is ph7.2, 8Kh. As my primary interest is the keeping of dwarf cihlids, most of which prefer a lower ph for spawning, I would like to take the ph down.

Now, I know there are lots of different options out there. Some people use peat, some people use hp adjusters, and I have even seen some people write articles where they simply used phosphoric acid...

Personally, I will only go with either peat or a ph adjuster.

I am currently looking at "API proper ph 6.5", but it is hard to find specifics on exactly how this works when adding to the aquarium. I am worried about a sudden drastic drop in ph which could harm fish. Or does this product lower the ph at an acceptable rate for the fish?

Then there is peat, which I think is probably the better option. Does the amount of peat added determine the effect it has on the water? Are peat granules any better than peat fibre?

Hi

I have an experience of lower the PH, i was trying that in my discus tank..

here we go :

1. PH adjustment's (chemical liquid's) is not good for the fishes and water from the natural side,

you are going to keep dwarf chichlid's,discus, or any fish we decide to keep it right, we have to create the

natural environment for this fish,

WHY: the chemical's lower the ph for some time then PH will rise, because there's a buffer for the water,

the buffer depend on your KH..


2.PEAT (fibre peat) : is good for create the natural environment for the fishes and plant's too.

it's contains soem humic acids and valued material's..

but also peat will lower the PH for some time,

Peat and chemical liquid's.. you have to use it regularly..

*for peat... change it every 4 week's.

*for acids chemical's... see the instruction's of the product.


Now....

IF you want to do the right thing, and lower the PH.KH.GH correctly..

you have to use RO water,

Then:

1. add KENT RO RIGHT, to put back some essential element's, (RO 98% FREE OF material's)

2. test you KH, GH, if below 3 DH add a soem tap water, just a little quantity.

3. put some peat to create the natural environment..

4.if you using CO2 system, pay attention of the PH.

*** enjoy your fish keeping***

 

[steelhealr]

Hi....just some thoughts. A dKh of 8 doesn't necessarily imply hard water. You can have a high bicarb level and still have a low gH. Remember, gH is a measure of the mineral content of your water and that can include everything from calcium, magnesium, iron, etc. Eg...I can add sodium bicarbonate to a bucket of RO and get a high dkH and have a near 0 gH reading.

Maintaining a marine aquarium requires stringent water husbandry. The RO water recommendation is a good one. If you can't use RO, you can use distilled water if you can be sure the source is good. You may even want to have a sample of it tested.

If you are not in a rush, you can gradually lower the dKh and gH by doing all your next water changes with RO water or distilled. You WILL deplete some minerals that help to keep your FW fish healthy, so, some replacment as mentioned will be necessary. You will obviously have to invest in a gH test kit and monitor closely. Over the ensuing water changes, you should notice your gH and dKh begin to fall which might make your acidifiers work more easily as the water changes will deplete the buffer system. This is probably the safest way to do this short of using a peat pillow. Even with that insert in your filter, if you do all your water changes with a high pH, high gH water, it will take a long time to lower your pH.

Hope this helped. SH

 

[a.d.wood]

1. add KENT RO RIGHT, to put back some essential element's, (RO 98% FREE OF material's)

2. test you KH, GH, if below 3 DH add a soem tap water, just a little quantity.

You've spent the money and time purifieing your water, please do not add tap water back to it, if you want to add some water then use the waste water the RO unit produces, at least the chlorines/chloramines have been removed from this water and there is nothing else in this water that will harm your fish (RO units will have as a minimum a carbon filter as well).

In my setup I use 100% RO that is filtered through peat for a minimum of 24 hours (the peat is changed every 6 months) before use, I do not add anything else to my water. GH is 1, KH is not detectable (and this works, over 6 species of dwarf successfully spawned and fry raised in the last 6 months).

If you are using a CO2 system, then KH will become a bit more important to prevent pH swings that could potentially kill your fish (I don't use them so it's not critical for me).

Andrew

 

[kamel_007]

1. add KENT RO RIGHT, to put back some essential element's, (RO 98% FREE OF material's)

2. test you KH, GH, if below 3 DH add a soem tap water, just a little quantity.

You've spent the money and time purifieing your water, please do not add tap water back to it, if you want to add some water then use the waste water the RO unit produces, at least the chlorines/chloramines have been removed from this water and there is nothing else in this water that will harm your fish (RO units will have as a minimum a carbon filter as well).

In my setup I use 100% RO that is filtered through peat for a minimum of 24 hours (the peat is changed every 6 months) before use, I do not add anything else to my water. GH is 1, KH is not detectable (and this works, over 6 species of dwarf successfully spawned and fry raised in the last 6 months).

If you are using a CO2 system, then KH will become a bit more important to prevent pH swings that could potentially kill your fish (I don't use them so it's not critical for me).

Andrew

thanx Andrew..

Personaly, i use 100% RO now, added peat only and discus essential, planta min from tetra,,,

i'll switching to seachem florish product's :

1. seachem florish Excel.
2. Seachem N,P and K..

to get more improvement for my plant's..

BR.

 

[a.d.wood]

Shokran Kamel_007,

Good luck with your plants, I only seem to grow algae succesfully in my discus tanks!! In my apisto tanks though all my amazon swords are in pots (roots in compost with a layer of gravel on top to try and stop the fish digging), and that seems to work. Maybe time to experiment in the discus tank again!!

Andrew