Nothobrancus Eggersi

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Fella

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I've read up on these and I want to begin keeping killifish. What I want to know though, is how to keep these.

I know they're not recommended for a beginner, but I'm willing to put in the extra effort. I like to think I've kept some relatively difficult fish in the past (and still do).

So the first question is, where to get hold of these? I'm guessing I'll need a tank with a peat substrate, but how would this work in the long run? When I need to remove the eggs, surely I would need to remove the whole substrate? I want the aquarium looking as natural as possible.

The water where I am is both hard, and neutral PH. I don't have an RO unit, would it be worth me looking into collecting rainwater? Or would standard tapwater suffice?

What is the minimum tank size for these?

Many thanks for all advice imparted.
 
Hi Fella,
Firstly there are different collecting locations for N. eggersi. Please be sure of your site codes before passing any fish/eggs on.
And yes you are quite right there are easier Nothos to begin with, but there is simply no reason if your not completly new to killis why you cannot try your hand at these little gems from Tanzania.
There are also some colour variants namely blue and red. I think red is the much nicer option.
being a rather small Notho. I would set them up in an bare bottomed 18"x8"x8" all glass tank with 1 male to 4 females.
Add a small air driven sponge filter and a heater/stat set to 25-26'C and a pH of around 7.5 add a small teaspoon of cooking salt (to guard against velvet)
I spawn Nothos with peat in margarine tubs weighted down with a stone or similar object. I use only Irish Moss peat not Sphagnum moss peat.
I leave a bucket full of water outside and throw handfuls of peat into this. It will float initally but eventually sink. The water will be very brown but keep running this off and replenish it with fresh weekly until clear, the peat is now ready for use. Place a good handful in a margarine tub as above and place the lid on it make some tiny holes in the lid to let water in and air out. After about 1/2 an hour remove the lid and the peat should remain for the most part in the container. When the fish settle and start to produce eggs then you will get some overspill onto the tank floor (unavoidable)
The fish should be fed well on livefoods for the best results (culture your own or buy) Cleanliness is of upmost priority in such a small tank so perform waterchanges on a 3-4 day basis and syphon off any uneaten food soon after feeding.
The group will lay many eggs over the week and I gather the peat up on a weekly basis and pour it into a net and squeesed to get rid of access water. Lay this out on some newspaper or kitchen roll and allow it to dry a little to the consistancy of rolling or pipe tobacco (moist but not too wet) Replenish the marg. tub with fresh peat.
Now place the egg laden peat in a fish bag with most of the air expelled (store at 25'C) and label with the species name, date collected and date expected which should be around 3-4 months but could possible be shorter with a higher incubation temp. (6-8 Weeks)
storing20killifish20eggs20in20peat2.jpg

A good instrument to have handy is a good large magnifying glass. Check you peat after the alloted time and look for the eggs, they will be hard to see but they are there alright. When you come across the eggs look closely you will be able to see the fully formed eye which will have a bright ring around it, this tells you the eggs are ready to hatch. I place the peat in a white coloured plastic ice-cream tub and cover with coolish water 22'C and 1" depth and float this in the parent tank. The fish will hatch almost immediatly, I then transfer the fry to another tub using a glass eyedropper and start to feed. I like to start all my Notho fry on infusorians so you will have to make provisions for this. From there they go to Newly hatched brineshrimp, microworm then to Grindalworm, Whiteworm and Vestigal Winged or wingless fruitfly. After a day or so of collecting fry then redry the peat as before (all fry wont hatch on first wetting) and store as before for a week and then wet it once more.
Perform waterchanges in the fry tub/s very regularly.
As the fry grow increase both the size of container and the water depth. They will sex out pretty quickly so you can then seperate the males from the females and raise accordinly. You may be able to coax them to eat some frozen but in my experience they prefer livefood.
It wont be long before you have loads of these. You may lose some batches in the begining but practice makes perfect as they say.
You should get between 12-16 months out of individual specimens.
If I have left anything out then please just ask.
As for obtaining inital stock well try
Sam (German Breeder) at
[email protected]
As for the water I use RO and tap mixture. You can get a small 36 gallon a day unit for cheap
http://www.ro-man.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/35
I hope this went some way to helping you out.
Regards
BigC
 
BigC, I was hoping you'd come to the rescue. This is very very useful, and I'm going to take a look at what hardware I'll use and then come back with a longer more in depth reply!
 
Ok, I've done a bit of further reading (rereading your post a few times BigC!) and have found a supplier for these.

This auction has them and I think I might bid. It has some other bits and pieces in the kit as well.

My only question is, what is the best way to raise infusorians?
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Try Aquabid for eggs, you get some really nice killi eggs from there from some European sources, like anything else check their feedback first.

Infusoria can be created by just putting some green lettuce or such like into a bottle of mature water and leaving it above your tank, then again if you have an established tank it is full of micro organisms that you killi fry can feed from so you could use the water from one of them and put that into a bottle with some lettuce so double quick start for the infusoria to grow on.
 
I have Salvinia natans as a surface plant in many of my tanks and how I make an infusorian culture is to use some aged tap water or boil or do anything to get rid of the chlorine as infusoria/paramicium do not like chlorine. I use plastic open topped goldfish bowls (cheap)I fill the bowl 3/4 full of water as discussed then I take a handful of Salvinia and squeeze the juice and infusorians into this,(I suppose any aquarium plant would suffice) I add to this 1/2 a teaspoon of granulated milk powder and stir. People always say to leave near a light source, mine are kept on a shelf which recieves light but not direct and I never had any problems. I gently airate this, only gently. The cultures are kept at a temperature of around 70-72'F After a few days examine near the surface with a small magnifying glass, you will see a dust like cloud (infusorians) moving just below the surface. Every third day I add another small amount of dried milk powder to keep the culture thriving. I get about a fortnight out of them then the existing cultures are used to innoculate new cultures and are rotated. I feed this to the fry using a glass eyedropper or pipette.
Regards
BigC
 
Big C this is brilliant. Do you still do microworm cultures? If so, I'll need to put in another order!


Ok, my few final questions (I think).

1) Are these fish notorious jumpers? I'm assuming so.

2) How do they mix with other fish? I'm going to keep them in a small community (Taking out the other fish when I have the time to breed them), and am wondering if it would be possible to keep lampeyes with them and some other small fish?

3) If I get 50 eggs, I don't want 50 fish. What do I do in that instance? Do I just do a few eggs, put the rest into incubation?

Thanks again BigC, I owe you.
 
Big C this is brilliant. Do you still do microworm cultures? If so, I'll need to put in another order!
Ok, my few final questions (I think).

1) Are these fish notorious jumpers? I'm assuming so.

2) How do they mix with other fish? I'm going to keep them in a small community (Taking out the other fish when I have the time to breed them), and am wondering if it would be possible to keep lampeyes with them and some other small fish?

3) If I get 50 eggs, I don't want 50 fish. What do I do in that instance? Do I just do a few eggs, put the rest into incubation?

Thanks again BigC, I owe you.

No problem Fella,
If I can help someone who is genuinely jnterested...then I will.
Firstly, I no longer send out Livefood Cultures due to the recent death of my father which equates to simply not having the time between juggling family life and Killifish. I have included a link below who I have myself delt with in the past and is excellent.
http://www.worm-cultures.co.uk/en-gb/front.html
And so to the answers to your questions:-
These type of fish (Nothobranchius sp.) I wouldn't regard as notorious jumpers. I have never had any carpet surfers from this genus (more so Aphyosemion, Fundulopanchax and Rivulus) Thats not to say dont provide a cover/canopy or lid.
I would keep them in a species tank where their water stats and feeding regime can be adhered to without outside influences. Lampeyes are a nice fish but require totally different water conditions and need fast flowing water at that whereas Nothos are at the other end of the scale.
You will get a hell of a lot more than 50 eggs. (even in one day if blanket spawning) I suggest you collect the peat/eggs weekly and bag/label and sell on Fleabay.
A reserve of around £4 plus p&p should cover your costs. Build up your own stock first. Bare in mind you will get skewed sex ratios and runts, so get a good strong strain going first.
Regards
BigC
 
so you dont have to send them in water? just peat and eggs? I was wondering the same question because the golden australe im getting apparently lay atleast 60 eggs a day

sorry for hijacking fella
 

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