Newbie To Co2 And Need Some Advice Please

[Rob.S]

I'm using the D&D kit, it's been running for about two months now - & I haven't killed anything yet. To get the dose rate right, you really need a drop checker (mine is the same on as Andy has posted in his 3rd picture).

Before I bought my counter, I used a formula that came with the kit instructions......

(tank vol [litres] x Kh) / 50.

This gave me a rate of 9 bubbles/ min. But I gradually increased this to 13, and the plants started pearling. Now, I have the drop checker & bubble counter, I should be able to get it set properly.

 

[Nosnibor]

I'm using the D&D kit, it's been running for about two months now - & I haven't killed anything yet. To get the dose rate right, you really need a drop checker (mine is the same on as Andy has posted in his 3rd picture).

Before I bought my counter, I used a formula that came with the kit instructions......

(tank vol [litres] x Kh) / 50.

This gave me a rate of 9 bubbles/ min. But I gradually increased this to 13, and the plants started pearling. Now, I have the drop checker & bubble counter, I should be able to get it set properly.

That's great as I have the same size tank as you, I believe that yours is also the 180 litres, so I could go by that especially if yuo've had luck with it. How long did you take before you increased the bpm to 13?

Not too sure exactly which one the D&D kit is, I have ordered the one off ebay that Andy recommended (the German one), it looks great and better than the little Hydro one I bought (for the same price )

I've also ordered the same dropper as I thought it looked so nice and plant(ish). Not too sure what the Lily Pipe outflow is though, I think I will reply and ask him.

I take it you saw some beautiful improvements when you added the CO2.

Can't wait until it turns up

Cheers

Martin

And just showing of the camera now really. The Lily Pipe outflow, you can see the vortex in the water's surface just in front of it.

Andy

Hiya,

What does the Lily Pipe outflow do? Is it something to do with the fact that the CO2 diffusor is an active one and not passive?

Cheers

Martin
PS obviously this is directed at anyone Thanks

 

[SuperColey1]

With the NRV blow in one end and if you can you are blowing into the bottom. Turn it the other way round and you'll find it's like blowing up a new balloon you haven't stretched. This is the top.

If you can blow into both ends it is faulty

The complete setup you have doesn't have a diffusor, it has a reactor which you fit inline between your filter and the outlet. The CO2 goes into it and isblasted out the spray bar. They are good so I hear but I'm a sucker for glass in the aquarium . lol

I will defo not use Flubenol cos they ain't hitch hikers!!! They're Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS) and they work their way through the sand eating any leftovers, algae and help minimise any chance of anaerobic pockets, while they burrow.

The Lily Pipe is my outlet pipe. You may have a spraybar instead. The Lily pipe creates a little vortex at the water's surface (which you can just about see in the pic) and then blasts the water out again. This means it mixes the old water with the fresh and it also circulates the water very effectively (And they look a lot better than the spraybar I had) Again I'm a sucker for glassware and its less noticeable in the tank than plastic which tends to alter its colour over time in water!!!

Andy

 

[Nosnibor]

With the NRV blow in one end and if you can you are blowing into the bottom. Turn it the other way round and you'll find it's like blowing up a new balloon you haven't stretched. This is the top.

If you can blow into both ends it is faulty

The complete setup you have doesn't have a diffusor, it has a reactor which you fit inline between your filter and the outlet. The CO2 goes into it and isblasted out the spray bar. They are good so I hear but I'm a sucker for glass in the aquarium . lol

I will defo not use Flubenol cos they ain't hitch hikers!!! They're Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS) and they work their way through the sand eating any leftovers, algae and help minimise any chance of anaerobic pockets, while they burrow.

The Lily Pipe is my outlet pipe. You may have a spraybar instead. The Lily pipe creates a little vortex at the water's surface (which you can just about see in the pic) and then blasts the water out again. This means it mixes the old water with the fresh and it also circulates the water very effectively (And they look a lot better than the spraybar I had) Again I'm a sucker for glassware and its less noticeable in the tank than plastic which tends to alter its colour over time in water!!!

Andy

I understand now with regards to the reactor unit, I was wondering how that was going to work. I was looking forward to a nice glass diffusor in my tank but I suppose it's less space taken up by the equipment and more space for the fishes eh

Very interesting with the MTS (I'm glad I know what that means now ), so I take it as long as I don't over feed it is a benefit to have these snails then?

I like the look of the Lily Pipe, I just have the standard outlet pipe from my Fluval 305 and it would look nicer with a glass unit. I'm always trying to work out ways to have the outlet pipe coming in to the tank without having to use the hook bracket that came with the filter otherwise I will have to cut in to the cover if I want the lid shut completely. I think I will look in to getting a raised hood when I get into upgrading my lighting, hope I can get one.

Cheers

Martin

 

[garuf]

im contemplating getting one off those german kits, would one work on a 10gallon? and would it work on british power without butchering the plug?
is a drop checker important? £90 is alot of money for a peice of kit that you then have to spend more money on...

 

[Nosnibor]

im contemplating getting one off those german kits, would one work on a 10gallon? and would it work on british power without butchering the plug?
is a drop checker important? £90 is alot of money for a peice of kit that you then have to spend more money on...

The German kit looks great. I received it this morning and I only ordered it on Sunday night - superb. I unwrapped it at lunch just to look at it and will be installing it tonight then turning it on tomorrow morning when it is light.

When I enquired about the fact that the one I bought can support 1000 litres and if they had something smaller, they gave me this link: http/cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=140064649210
They said this link shows a pasive diffusor System for tanks up to 300 litres in German language though but they answer emails in English

I am buying a drop checker from ebay (Hong Kong) but they also do them on Aqua Essentials, it's the drop checker in Andy's photos (4th one down). It's under £20 and will do fine on the tanks, that seems to be all you need.

Martin

 

[garuf]

im contemplating getting one off those german kits, would one work on a 10gallon? and would it work on british power without butchering the plug?
is a drop checker important? £90 is alot of money for a peice of kit that you then have to spend more money on...

The German kit looks great. I received it this morning and I only ordered it on Sunday night - superb. I unwrapped it at lunch just to look at it and will be installing it tonight then turning it on tomorrow morning when it is light.

When I enquired about the fact that the one I bought can support 1000 litres and if they had something smaller, they gave me this link: http/cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=140064649210
They said this link shows a pasive diffusor System for tanks up to 300 litres in German language though but they answer emails in English

I am buying a drop checker from ebay (Hong Kong) but they also do them on Aqua Essentials, it's the drop checker in Andy's photos (4th one down). It's under £20 and will do fine on the tanks, that seems to be all you need.

Martin

hello, and thank you, ill probably look into the second link since im running a ten gallon and a eden501 filter which im guessing wont support inline diffusion, can you please write a breif review once youve set it up so i can make a diffinitive disission on purchasing one
what exactly does a drop checker check? i know its a silly question but i cant see why theyre needed
thank you in advance
gareth

 

[Nosnibor]

hello, and thank you, ill probably look into the second link since im running a ten gallon and a eden501 filter which im guessing wont support inline diffusion, can you please write a breif review once youve set it up so i can make a diffinitive disission on purchasing one
what exactly does a drop checker check? i know its a silly question but i cant see why theyre needed
thank you in advance
gareth

Yes I will, I'm looking forward to it as the only other experience I've had is with a Hydro system that I bought but decided on this one after. I got as far as taking it out of the box and setting it up then boxing it back up again, that supports up to 300 litres too.

The drop checker (using d4KH and Bromothymol solution) will give you a very accurate of your CO2 level. The way I've read it is that it's like doing a ammonia test for example but it is constantly there in the tank changing as the levels do. You put a certain amount of d4KH solution in it drop with an amount of the Bromo fluid that you'll get in the pH Low test kit. The colour will start off Blue to show that you have a low CO2 count then slowly turn Grean as CO2 is introduced in the water. It will go Yellow if you have too much so you have to get the balance before then.

I believe the literature that comes with the dropper recommends just using the tank water or something but using this d4KH solution is so much more accurate. You can buy it from Aqua Essentials for £6.99, seems like they are the only people who do it.

Martin

 

[garuf]

hello, and thank you, ill probably look into the second link since im running a ten gallon and a eden501 filter which im guessing wont support inline diffusion, can you please write a breif review once youve set it up so i can make a diffinitive disission on purchasing one
what exactly does a drop checker check? i know its a silly question but i cant see why theyre needed
thank you in advance
gareth

Yes I will, I'm looking forward to it as the only other experience I've had is with a Hydro system that I bought but decided on this one after. I got as far as taking it out of the box and setting it up then boxing it back up again, that supports up to 300 litres too.

The drop checker (using d4KH and Bromothymol solution) will give you a very accurate of your CO2 level. The way I've read it is that it's like doing a ammonia test for example but it is constantly there in the tank changing as the levels do. You put a certain amount of d4KH solution in it drop with an amount of the Bromo fluid that you'll get in the pH Low test kit. The colour will start off Blue to show that you have a low CO2 count then slowly turn Grean as CO2 is introduced in the water. It will go Yellow if you have too much so you have to get the balance before then.

I believe the literature that comes with the dropper recommends just using the tank water or something but using this d4KH solution is so much more accurate. You can buy it from Aqua Essentials for £6.99, seems like they are the only people who do it.

Martin

good call, thank you
the kit looks impressive and is quiet a bit cheaper than anything similar from a uk vendor.
i cant wait to get payed so i can invest in it co2, ive a blue green algae issue going down in my tank because of a) too much light (tanks in the sun light) B) no co2 c) no ferts and that should help me get back on track

 

[SuperColey1]

You'll find that often the best equipment for fish tank is german, and normally commands a higher price, hence why this is such good value.

The reason that you don't use tank water is because its parameters are susceptible to chnage and therefore what is good this week may not be next week. The 4dKH means that the reference solution is always the same.

Imagining it as comparing a Porsche to a Fiesta this week. WOW the porsche is good
next week compare the Porsche to Mercedes. Its a bit better than the mercedes but not much.

You are comparing like for like every day of every week, with the 4dKH

I don't buy mine I make it myself cos I'm a cheapskate. lol. maybe slightly less accurate than laboratory tested ones but is accurate enough for my purposes.

Imagine the reactor as a cylinder. You cut your inflow hose in the middle. put one end on the bottom of the reactor and on end on the top and the water just flows through it as normal. Then you connect the CO2 hose in the side. The one bubble then gets bashed about in some bio-balls or similar and this virtually siddolves it into the water before it gets to your outlet.

By the looks of that link it is a glass spiro diffusor with the ceramic disk in the top of it. So you've got your glassware after all, which means you can put this in the tank and link your bubble counter and NRV behind the tank so you can peer round the side to check the bubble rate.

Like I said Im a cheapskate and bought the Rhinox, Gamba and drop checker in auctions, which cost me £7, £6 and £8 inc shipping respectively. (maybe it means I have far too much time on my hands)

Good Luck with your setup and be careful. Don't want you gassing the fish like another idiot on here did. lol

andy

 

[garuf]

You'll find that often the best equipment for fish tank is german, and normally commands a higher price, hence why this is such good value.

The reason that you don't use tank water is because its parameters are susceptible to chnage and therefore what is good this week may not be next week. The 4dKH means that the reference solution is always the same.

Imagining it as comparing a Porsche to a Fiesta this week. WOW the porsche is good
next week compare the Porsche to Mercedes. Its a bit better than the mercedes but not much.

You are comparing like for like every day of every week, with the 4dKH

I don't buy mine I make it myself cos I'm a cheapskate. lol. maybe slightly less accurate than laboratory tested ones but is accurate enough for my purposes.

Imagine the reactor as a cylinder. You cut your inflow hose in the middle. put one end on the bottom of the reactor and on end on the top and the water just flows through it as normal. Then you connect the CO2 hose in the side. The one bubble then gets bashed about in some bio-balls or similar and this virtually siddolves it into the water before it gets to your outlet.

By the looks of that link it is a glass spiro diffusor with the ceramic disk in the top of it. So you've got your glassware after all, which means you can put this in the tank and link your bubble counter and NRV behind the tank so you can peer round the side to check the bubble rate.

Like I said Im a cheapskate and bought the Rhinox, Gamba and drop checker in auctions, which cost me £7, £6 and £8 inc shipping respectively. (maybe it means I have far too much time on my hands)

Good Luck with your setup and be careful. Don't want you gassing the fish like another idiot on here did. lol

andy

ahhhhh im with you. yeah id noticed that about german stuff, must be big over there or maybe its just germans are more demanding of quality? who knows!


which would be my best option in your opinion? i might get a bigger set up once i have space and simply run diy on the 10 treating the 10 as a grow out tank
lucky for me i dont have any fish to gas yet

 

[Nosnibor]

You'll find that often the best equipment for fish tank is german, and normally commands a higher price, hence why this is such good value.

The reason that you don't use tank water is because its parameters are susceptible to chnage and therefore what is good this week may not be next week. The 4dKH means that the reference solution is always the same.

Imagining it as comparing a Porsche to a Fiesta this week. WOW the porsche is good
next week compare the Porsche to Mercedes. Its a bit better than the mercedes but not much.

You are comparing like for like every day of every week, with the 4dKH

I don't buy mine I make it myself cos I'm a cheapskate. lol. maybe slightly less accurate than laboratory tested ones but is accurate enough for my purposes.

Imagine the reactor as a cylinder. You cut your inflow hose in the middle. put one end on the bottom of the reactor and on end on the top and the water just flows through it as normal. Then you connect the CO2 hose in the side. The one bubble then gets bashed about in some bio-balls or similar and this virtually siddolves it into the water before it gets to your outlet.

By the looks of that link it is a glass spiro diffusor with the ceramic disk in the top of it. So you've got your glassware after all, which means you can put this in the tank and link your bubble counter and NRV behind the tank so you can peer round the side to check the bubble rate.

Like I said Im a cheapskate and bought the Rhinox, Gamba and drop checker in auctions, which cost me £7, £6 and £8 inc shipping respectively. (maybe it means I have far too much time on my hands)

Good Luck with your setup and be careful. Don't want you gassing the fish like another idiot on here did. lol

andy

Andy hiya,

The unit I got was the one for £80, the one that supports up to 1000 litres, the reactor one. I'm just taking photos of all the bits as it didn't come with any instructions. If you wouldn't mind spending a little bit of time helping the best you can I'd appreciate it.

Won't be long.

Cheers

Martin

 

[Nosnibor]

Okay, here are the photos of the bits that came with the unit (well most anyway). Please correct me if I have the wrong names for the bits, there really was nothing that came with it

The Valve

The Solenoid

One side of the Reactor

The other side of the Reactor

NRV & T-Bit

Bubble Counter

Now as I was uploading the photos I worked out that the two pieces of the reactor squeezed together, it's a little strange but clever really. It also goes smaller by taking pieces of the reactor out.

With the reactor, I can see that the main inlet pushes on to one end of it and at the other end is a part for the CO2 tubing to go on it. This is what I think the final intlet would look like:

So looking at the photo, the inlet from the old Fluval piece would now plug into this side. The CO2 tubing would move along the back and connect in the other end. Then that inlet at the right hand side would be the new inlet spray, I have noticed that there is a small hole at the back which I could only imagine is in case of build up.

So I'm assuming that this is the following route of the tubing.

Once the Needle Valve has been connected to the cylinder the tubing connects from the top left on the valve (there is also another adjustment valve to the left (see 1st photo) with + & - on it, I take it that's for fine tuning?).

Then the tube connects to one end of the solenoid, the other end connects to the Bubble Counter, the other side connects to the NRV, then the other end of that connects to the right hand side of the reactor - phew!

Please ask away, I will be monitoring this whilst conencting it hee hee.

Thanks again

Martin

 

[Rob.S]

Martin.... If I've read your post correctly, then you are putting the NRV after the bubble counter? Looking at Andy's second photo (back on page one ), it looks like he has the NRV before the counter. This makes more sense to me, as the NRV will stop the bubble counter emptying, once the soleniod clicks off.

What do you think?

 

[Nosnibor]

Martin.... If I've read your post correctly, then you are putting the NRV after the bubble counter? Looking at Andy's second photo (back on page one ), it looks like he has the NRV before the counter. This makes more sense to me, as the NRV will stop the bubble counter emptying, once the soleniod clicks off.

What do you think?

Yep, makes sense to me too. Thank you.

Just come back from the garage to connect the cylinder with the niddle valve and I thought that was exciting hee hee what an idiot

I like the way that Andy has fastend his cylinder to the wall, I was thinking about doing the same kind of thing. I thought about getting/making a pocket to sit it in then a belt to fasten it to the wall rather than that industry black bracket which I can't work out what to do with

Martin

Ha ha ha: Worked out what the black bracket is for. It's to have the cylinder upside down. It looks good too. I think that's how I'll have it until I get my Pocket and belt