New Tank/fish Help

He may be trying to get oxygen. Are his gills moving rapidly?

Have you tested the water and when and how much was your last water change?

Can I suggest doing another 80-90% water change. Making sure you turn off your heater and filter as if there is no water they can explode.

Also what algea eater do you have? If it's not a pleco then you could add a small amount of salt, 2 teaspoons, as this will help the fish cope with the poor water quality. But make sur it's aquarium salt not table salt. Table salt will harm the fish
 
There are definitely some ways to save money when fish keeping (getting gravel from home depot instead of the LFS, preparing found wood instead of paying for driftwood, etc.) but a water test kit is just not one of them. Get yourself a liquid test kit, not the strips. Don't feel bad, many people here listened to the bad advice given at the fish store and didn't find this forum until our fish started dying. I personally shelled out a lot on multiple bottles of nutrafin cycle before I realized that it didn't work.
 
He may be trying to get oxygen. Are his gills moving rapidly?

Have you tested the water and when and how much was your last water change?

Can I suggest doing another 80-90% water change. Making sure you turn off your heater and filter as if there is no water they can explode.

Also what algea eater do you have? If it's not a pleco then you could add a small amount of salt, 2 teaspoons, as this will help the fish cope with the poor water quality. But make sur it's aquarium salt not table salt. Table salt will harm the fish

The guppie hasn't moved from that spot, and it does appear that his gills are moving rapidly. My last water change was less than 24hours ago, maybe 18 hours? I'm about to do another water change right now. I do not know what kind of algae eater I have, my girlfriend picked it up and brought it home. But he is a small little dude, and seems to be doing fine. He is just chilling in this little rock cave I have suckin' on the walls of it.

I will invest in a water test kit, however I can't run out and get one right at this moment. My car is currently out of commission and I'm working on getting it fix ASAP. If I do find a ride, I'll go to the store and get it.
 
So I changed about 80-90% of the water, and the guppy is still hanging around at the top? Gills seem to be moving rapid as well. All the other fish seem to be playing though? (swimming up and down and all over the tank really fast)
 
Ok. I understand that you can't get to a shop. But as soon as you can do!

Until then do daily water changes of 80-90% and make sure you use dechorinator as tap water chlorine in it and that harms the fish and kills good bacteria in your tank. If you are in the states use prime, apparently this converts ammonia to ammonium for 48-72 hours. This is alot less harmful to the fish.

I'm not sure what to do about the guppy I'm afraid, apart from keep doing water changes.

Oh also only feed them a small amount of food every other day. This will help with the ammonia levels as less food = less waste.

I hope all turns out well!
 
Ok. I understand that you can't get to a shop. But as soon as you can do!

Until then do daily water changes of 80-90% and make sure you use dechorinator as tap water chlorine in it and that harms the fish and kills good bacteria in your tank. If you are in the states use prime, apparently this converts ammonia to ammonium for 48-72 hours. This is alot less harmful to the fish.

I'm not sure what to do about the guppy I'm afraid, apart from keep doing water changes.

Oh also only feed them a small amount of food every other day. This will help with the ammonia levels as less food = less waste.

I hope all turns out well!

The guppy that was apparently "gasping for air" has passed away sometime last night. The other fish seem to be fine. I will keep doing the water changes and adding the dechlorinator.

I am from Canada, and haven't seen this prime. The pet store that I go to is Pets Unlimited and most if not all of their stock is Nutrafin brand.
 
Hi warhawk and welcome to our freshwater beginners section!

I see lots of members have helped you with your situation so far and are doing a good job! As you've seen, ammonia and nitrite(NO2) poisoning are a big deal in fishkeeping and it takes a while to figure out that large water changes are your friend in most cases! Good test kits are also an essential friend of beginners.

One other thing may be going on in your case. No one explained the importance of tap water versus these other sorts of water, distilled and bottled. It is nearly always better to rely on tap water as the source for your aquarium. There are extreme cases where tap water presents too much of a problem for the goals of the aquarist, but those are rare.

Tap water contains trace minerals (Calcium, Magnesium, tailing off to smaller and smaller amounts of many other substaces) that serve both individual positive purposes and also collectively create a "hardness level" that ideally serves as a steady baseline for your fish. When water evaporates, the water molecules leave the tank without taking other substances with them, thus they leave behind these minerals (and hundreds of other types of organic and inorganic molecules.) If water is simply topped up, these minerals will make the water too "hard" for your fish to be able to regulate with their osmotic systems. But if appropriate water changes occur, your water will be maintained at mineral levels similar to your tap water and your tap water will remain a source of water that will not "shock" your fish.

Distilled water by definition has very little or none of these minerals. Bottled water is usually water with a mineral content very different from your tap water, but basically unpredictable and potentially changing, depending on source. Neither of these is usually acceptable as a source water for aquariums.

To top it all off, some of the fish your LFS has allowed you to try as a beginner present individual problems with respect to water chemistry. Let's look at some examples. Mollies often need very, very hard water as their ideal environment, in fact this is often mistaken as a need for salt! Neon tetras really prefer the extremely soft, acid water they come from in the Amazon region of South America and additionally are fish that really do better in tanks that are at least 6 months old, rather than a new tank. Guppies, despite being rather easy fish to keep overall, are not particularly hardy as first fish (neither are neons or mollies for that matter.) Not to let my comments get too far out of perspective, all these are popular commercial tropicals and will usually do ok in a variety of water conditions if the conditions are stable, but point is just to give a glimpse of some of the greater detail one begins to get into as a hobbyist, which is the point of these forums.

All these things, learning about ammonia and nitrite as poisons to be measured and watched, learning about the functions of filters and how they need to be "cycled" prior to being ready to support fish, learning about the importance of water changes and of the parameters of the water itself, learning about how to create healthy "stocking plans" for your first fish are all the stuff of the basic beginner freshwater world we live with here in our subforum. The members here are all learning about it at different levels, even us old guys to the hobby and there is a great exchange of info. Keep at it and things will quickly start to get better and make more sense.

~~waterdrop~~ :)
 
So I got my water tested, everything was good. I did how ever change my water a few hours before so I am thinking that probably affected it.
 
Yeh that would. Did you get a test kit yourself? Also get exact readings. As some LFS think differently of "safe" readings. The only safe reading is 0 for both ammonia an nitrites.
 
Nah, at the moment I can't afford the test kit yet, until next pay. I'm pretty broke and now turns out I have to pay a fine for having a burnt out head light *sigh*

Just got the guy to test it with their test kit, pH, Ammonia and Nitrate were fine. But that's all he said. He used a liquid test kit, my question is how would he/I know the exact reading.
 
You have a chart with the test kit. Depending on how dark the colour changes shows how much parts per million is in that sample.

Makes alot of sence when you buy it. Very simple

When you next go there. Get him to test nitrites as they are killers just like ammonia!
 
Yeah, actually I do have the cash to get one. There is a holiday tomorrow, so I'll have to get it on Tuesday.

Fish seem to be acting fine, however sometimes it seems like the Neons are loosing colour?
 
So I finally got a testing kit and this is what I got.

I did not change the water for over 24hrs.

pH ~ 6.5

NH[sub]3[/sub] ~ 0.6

NO[sub]2[/sub] ~ 0.1


I currently have a Molly, Guppy, algae eater and 3 neon tetras. I did a quick search for the pH levels for the fish I have and most of them said between 7 & 8, should I try raising the pH or leaving it as it is?

Give me the good news and bad news fellas, I'm assuming that since there is detectable Ammonia in the water my tank isn't cycled.

Also I got a liquid test kit and was wondering do I need to place 5 drops of each solution to the water in the test tube, or is that scheme to make me use more of their product faster?
 
Good news: The nitrite reading indicates that you have some A-bacs (ammonia processing bacteria).

Bad news: There isn't enough to handle the bioload you currently have.



Actions to take:
#1 - water change - as big as possible would be good to lower the ammonia down to a trace level, to give the A-bacs more time before the ammonia level becomes dangerous to the fish.
#2 - lower your feeding regimen. The more you feed, the more they will... process and create more ammonia. Lighter feedings will produce less ammonia, and allow your A-bacs a chance to catch up.



To address the question regarding the reagent use. You need to use the proper concentration for the 5 mL of water.


So, there are things you can do to reduce the amount of reagent you use. But, you can't change the ratio. If 5mL needs 8 drops, then 2.5 mL needs 4 drops. If you are using a syringe to ensure that you get the proper amount of water, then feel free to do it. If not, just use the line on the tube and the recommended reagents. The bottles actually have a LOT of tests in them. You won't need to replace it for quite some time. Also, the test kits have an expiration date. They only last about 3 years from when they are made. You probably will not need a new test kit much before then. Remember, once the tank is cycled you really will only need to do a test every week or so to ensure that things are still going well.
 
+1.

The ph isfine fir those fish. Unless your a breeder. A stable Ph is far better than a fluctuating one. So need to do anything for the ph. Also regular water changes will bring the tank to your tap water qualities. Which I'm guessing is the same as in your tank, as you have been doing large and regular ones.

Keep up those water changes and it wont take too long till your tank is cycled.

And well done for getting a testing kit. The most sound investment in this hobby. Much easier to track your fish tank than going to the fish shop every day. And I'm sure they will start getting annoyed if you did that lol
 

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