new diatom algae scraper…

[Magnum Man]

4 inch razor, 4 - 18 inch handle sections… it’s got some leverage and this is the cleanest this tank has scraped, since I set it back up… I suspect the magnetic scraper may do a decent job on new growth, but old growth diatom algae in this hard water tank, was literally impossible to fully remove, with other scrapers

 

[FattyFish]

I used to use a decorator's glass scraper, the type they use to scrape paint off windows, when I had my marine tanks to scrape the calcification off the glass.

 

[Back in the fold]

That’s a Jim dandy looking scraper you’ve got there Man . It screams heavy duty !
What brand is it ? Where’d you get it ?

 

[Magnum Man]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DRY8ZRTF?tag=fishforums-20

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Your problem is not diatoms. They are soft and they stay that way in our tanks and are easy to remove manually. You are probably dealing with other forms of algae some of which get hard and difficult to remove. These may have a somewhat similar coloration to diatoms.

Diatoms are eukaryotes, one of the Heterokont algae. Estimates of the number of diatom species range from 20,000 - 2 million. Scientists are discovering new species every year.

Autotrophic heterokonts (heterokont algae) include the chromophytic algal groups, represented by diatoms, brown algae, golden algae, and yellow-green algae.

The cause of diatoms in our tanks is usually excess silica. This would normally come in via our tap. Usually, they go away on their own once a tank matures. But, if you have silica issues they may persist. There are a number of things one can do if diatoms become a problem.

If excess silica is the problem one may need to consider using some amount of RO water. But diatoms need light and a tank blackout can help. Also, diatoms are food for a lot of things living in water. Otos love diatoms.

Like most similar problems in tanks, the heart of the matter is nutrients. What we would want to figure out is if we have and issue with excess silica.

There is no direct test kit for the diatom algae itself, but you can test for silicate (SiO₂), the nutrient that causes diatoms to grow. Popular options include the Salifert Silicate Test Kit and the Seachem Silicate Test Kit.

Also, diatoms need light to photosynthesize. So, like other forms of algae, reducing the photo period or doing a tank blackout may help. But if excess silica in one's tank is the causing the problem and one has no desire to get involved with RO, then using one of the products like the two mentioned above should help.

For the most part diatoms will appear early on in a newly set up tank but, they usually disappear on there own in a number of weeks.

 

[Magnum Man]

this particular tank has rock hard water, but I also have problems with the same or similar algae in my soft water hillstream tank, and even with the hillstream’s eating the algae it leaves a hard residue stuck to the glass that a magnetic brush type scraper won’t remove… I assumed diatoms, as their cell structure is surrounded by silica, so assumed these left remnants of silica if not razored off…

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I did a fair amount of reading re diatoms as a result if this post. I found no evidence to suppurt the idea that they leave any form of residue on tank glass when they die off. Here is how the Google AI likes to explain it all. I found nothing in my reading to contradict the below when I asked, "what happened to diatoms in an aquarium when they die":

AI Overview

When diatoms die in a freshwater aquarium, their soft organic inside parts decay and break down into basic nutrients like nitrates, while their hard outer glass-like shells made of silica remain behind as fine, dusty sediment.

For a closer look at how these microalgae behave and naturally clear up as your tank matures, you can watch this helpful guide on Aquarium Brown Algae.

Breakdown and Decay

• Organic matter: The living part of the cell decomposes, feeding the tank's biological cycle.
• Silica frustules: The rigid cell wall does not melt away easily; it settles at the bottom as a microscopic sandy dust.
• Nutrient recycling: The leftover silica can theoretically stay in the water system or settle into the substrate, though the bloom ends when the initial high levels from new sand or tap water run out.

Removal and Cleanup

• Vacuuming: You can easily clear away the dead residue and loose dust using a siphon during a routine water change.
• Filter capture: Disturbed dead particles often float into the water column and get trapped inside your mechanical filter media.

Then I went a step further and asked Google, "how do diatoms in attach to the glass in aquariums," Here is the answer:

AI Overview
When diatoms die in a freshwater aquarium, their soft organic parts break down into basic nutrients like nitrates and phosphates, while their hard outer cell walls—made of glass-like silica—remain behind as a fine, dusty white or translucent sediment.

How Attachment Works

• • Mucilage Secretion: Diatoms produce an extracellular polymeric substance (EPS) or mucilage pad that acts as a natural glue.
  • Biofilm Formation: As individual cells multiply, this sticky substance binds them together into a loose, powdery brown layer across smooth surfaces like glass.
  • Not Permanent: Unlike green spot algae or black beard algae, this adhesive layer is weak, meaning the cells do not cement themselves hard to the pane and wipe off very easily.