Neon Tetra Death And Behaviour

How olds the tank? Neons are quite weak fish and will drop like flies in new tanks...

Also, if you have co2 in your tap water you could leave the new water in a bucket with an air stone in it overnight. This will gas off the co2
its about 2 months old but its the 2nd neon i lost. 1 one was very early on . so i could the day before water change fill a bucket and aerate it overnight to drop the ph
 
Did you use the full dose of whitespot med. As you are meant to only half dose.
What do you feed the fish?
The nitrate fine if you have a high nitrate reading in tap water.
 
Did you use the full dose of whitespot med. As you are meant to only half dose.
What do you feed the fish?
The nitrate fine if you have a high nitrate reading in tap water.
no didnt do full dose. feed just dry flakes. just the ph too high any thoughts. you can see what i have done so far from above cant you. any ideas on best practice. thanks
 
Need to read full thread. Its busy on here at the moment.
 
Need to read full thread. Its busy on here at the moment.
ok thanks if you wouldnt mind reading my other 2 posts as well and offering any advice i would be grateful. cheers
 
O mai. I once bought, like, 3 neon tetras.... Only 2 survived; one was jostled a whole bunch of times by the platies ALSO in the bag....

Bought 5 cardinal tetras and 1 golden neon tetra a little while later as well.... Well, absolutely ALL of them died, and now only 1 of my original neons has survived. :(

They ARE quite weak fish....
 
Try and keep to the same thread or its gets comfusing.


Truck good on ph as I don't know much about it.
We need to find out was altering your ph and truck doing a good job. I would wait for him to reply.

Need to improve the fish diet with frozen foods like brime shrimp and daphnia.
Some green veg like peas, broc, and spinage.


pH Shock

As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.

It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.

Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.

A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -

Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.

Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw
 
Try and keep to the same thread or its gets comfusing.


Truck good on ph as I don't know much about it.
We need to find out was altering your ph and truck doing a good job. I would wait for him to reply.

Need to improve the fish diet with frozen foods like brime shrimp and daphnia.
Some green veg like peas, broc, and spinage.


pH Shock

As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.

It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction. ok thanks that advice was brill. none of the fish are showing any signs of that at all. perhaps next water change i will put a bucket of coditioned tap water aerating overnight and check its ph next day. if i was to add this water on water change then is that going to cause a ph shock if its a lot different to my 8.2 tank water now

Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.

A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -

Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.

Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
[URL="http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw"]http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw[/URL]
 
Try and keep to the same thread or its gets comfusing.


Truck good on ph as I don't know much about it.
We need to find out was altering your ph and truck doing a good job. I would wait for him to reply.

Need to improve the fish diet with frozen foods like brime shrimp and daphnia.
Some green veg like peas, broc, and spinage.


pH Shock

As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.

It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction. ok thanks that advice was brill. none of the fish are showing any signs of that at all. perhaps next water change i will put a bucket of coditioned tap water aerating overnight and check its ph next day. if i was to add this water on water change then is that going to cause a ph shock if its a lot different to my 8.2 tank water now

Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.

A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock -

Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production.
Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only).
If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.

Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills.
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!
PH SHOCK LINK
<a href="http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw" target="_blank">http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/phshock.msnw</a>
ok no fish are showing any signs of this above so i should try and adjust ph slowly.truck came to the conclusion that the tank is making the ph rise. should i try to next time i do a water change the night before fill bucket of treated water and then the next day test its ph . only add this water to the tank if its not much different to my tank water of 8.2
 
Never do large water changes if the tap ph different from tank ph.
Don't know anything about c02. But make sure its not rock, or wood thats altering your tank ph.
I would wait for truck to reply.
 
i cant really see a problem with performing a large water change on the tank, the PH may be different, but the CO2 will gas off quicker whilst the water is being thrashed around when refilling. and if it does change the PH it wont go down by much, it will be gradual, and a change of 1 over an hour is fine, it wont cause PH shock...if a fish is transfered into a different PH instantly, thats when you get PH shock.
 
i cant really see a problem with performing a large water change on the tank, the PH may be different, but the CO2 will gas off quicker whilst the water is being thrashed around when refilling. and if it does change the PH it wont go down by much, it will be gradual, and a change of 1 over an hour is fine, it wont cause PH shock...if a fish is transfered into a different PH instantly, thats when you get PH shock.
ok thanks. can you please tell me what my next step should be. i started treating for white spot today so wont water change yet or soon? if so how should i do it to lower th ph gradually
 
i cant really see a problem with performing a large water change on the tank, the PH may be different, but the CO2 will gas off quicker whilst the water is being thrashed around when refilling. and if it does change the PH it wont go down by much, it will be gradual, and a change of 1 over an hour is fine, it wont cause PH shock...if a fish is transfered into a different PH instantly, thats when you get PH shock.
ok thanks. can you please tell me what my next step should be. i started treating for white spot today so wont water change yet or soon? if so how should i do it to lower th ph gradually
youll be fine to do a 50% water change if you stretch it out over 30mins...i cant answer the WS Q, but wilder will
 
i cant really see a problem with performing a large water change on the tank, the PH may be different, but the CO2 will gas off quicker whilst the water is being thrashed around when refilling. and if it does change the PH it wont go down by much, it will be gradual, and a change of 1 over an hour is fine, it wont cause PH shock...if a fish is transfered into a different PH instantly, thats when you get PH shock.
ok thanks. can you please tell me what my next step should be. i started treating for white spot today so wont water change yet or soon? if so how should i do it to lower th ph gradually
youll be fine to do a 50% water change if you stretch it out over 30mins...i cant answer the WS Q, but wilder will
im really new to this sorry how do you mean 30 mins etc understand the 50% water change just the rest also when would you advise on that. next white spot treat is in 48 hours. just before that
 

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