My Tank Needs A Change...and Your Help

... Probably the biggest repository of helpful bacteria in your aquarium occurs on the surface of each piece of gravel.

As Prank points out, this is not going to be the case in a tank with a filter where all the oxygenated water with nutrients the bacteria want are passed through. Why would the bacteria grow in a less advantageous spot than the filter media?

... One final tip for maintaining helpful bacteria is to not turn the filter off, except for maintenance, especially with a canister filter. Helpful bacteria require oxygen. If a dirty canister is turned off, the helpful bacteria will use up the oxygen and die. Because the filter is closed off from air, nitrifying bacteria will be replaced by anaerobic denitrifying bacteria, which do not need oxygen to break down waste.

These produce hydrogen sulfide and other toxic substances as a by-product. If you turn this dirty filter back on after having it off for a few hours, a day or a week, it may force poison into your tank. If you have a power outage, it’s a good idea to clean your canister filter before restarting it. ...

Hydrogen sulfide denatures extremely quickly when it is present in water which contains oxygen. We know our tanks contain oxygen as our fish are not dying. Therefore there is close to no actual risk from any hydrogen sulfide which may form.

They do not thrive on plastic, such as used in filter balls, or on the walls of plastic aquariums, or on plastic decorations. In fact, for those aquarists wanting for some reason to keep these bacteria low in number, they only need to be sure that as much as possible everything in their aquarium is plastic.

Really? How comes almost all wet dry filters run with plastic media then? My tanks certainly run fine with plastic media.

Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3)

The above information is out of date. Work by Hovanec and others indicates that Nitrobacter spp are not responsible for oxidising nitrite but instead Nitrospira spp are.

[D]ENITRIFICATION:
Is the process of converting Nitrates (NO3) in to Nitrogen (N2), which is dispersed into the atmosphere. This process can take place in an environment without oxygen by anaerobic bacteria. This process is more common in Marine aquaria and takes place in fine #00 sand, , live rock, or “aquarium mud”. In freshwater aquariums this process often produces deadly Hydrogen Sulfide, but by maintaining an oxygen level above 1 ppm, this can be avoided. Plants roots are great for maintaining this balance of oxygen in the gravel for proper Nitrate removal

Most aquarium mud systems I saw were aimed at providing nutrients to aid in the growth of macroalgae (usually Caulerpa or Chaetomorphia). It shoudl also be noted that the conversion of nitrate to nitrogen gas is as below:

Nitrate -> Nitrite - > Ammonia/Ammonium -> Nitrogen gas

As you can see, the nitrate is converted back through ammonia and nitrite, meaning disturbing the process can be fairly nasty.


A thicker layer of coarse gravel utilizing a "void space" called a plenum is often used for Nitrate removal in Saltwater and even freshwater aquariums. These are not to be confused with under gravel filters. ...

Though the Jaubert system (as the plenum use is called) is decreasing in favour quite rapidly as people notice the deep sand or gravel becomes a nutrient sink and if disturbed later can nuke a tank.
 
Actually, some of the main points I felt might be pertinent include: A.) that there is typically enough nitrifying bacteria present throughout the average tank, beyond that present in the average filter, to make a difference, and to potentially produce an ammonia spike if destroyed:

Conditions vary considerably in different tanks - i.e., those more interested in heavily stocking and compensating with overfiltration will obviously have more reliance on filtration than those with lower stocking and filtration levels.
However, even high filtration systems do not preclude the propagation elsewhere within the tank of nitrifying bacteria, (in this instance an inaccurate/outdated attribution to specific bacterial types being irrelevant, as the general fact of such a process being present was the purpose of introduction, although the correction is otherwise important, thanks) although the numbers and effect may be considerably lower.
And as different tanks run on even slightly differing principles vary so greatly, it may be a major error, albeit a common and human one, to assume all tanks function in the manner of one's own, or those described by proponents of certain types of, (generally high-tech) systems.
Where natural organisms/systems are involved, (even when varying but similarly artificial methods such as different filtration systems are being employed to use them to our advantage,) different results may be obtained - organisms tend to adapt to circumstances, and this is how they survive.
While in one tank, the substitution of matured gravel for fresh may make little or no apparent difference, a catastrophic crash may occur in another, depending on how much reliance rests on filtration versus whole-tank nitrification and/or plant uptake of ammonia/ammonium and other toxins in each case.
When giving advice regarding such situations, it's important to bear such variance in mind, and take this into consideration.
Many people with pet fish do not overfilter, do not run co2, etc., do not have the expertise or aims of some advising on this board, and may have VERY different conditions within their aquariums than the high-tech tanks of some.
And most of us have far more substrate material in our tanks than filter media in our HOBs.

It may be sometimes noticed that the same plants in two very similar tanks may prosper in one and fail to do well in another, even though identical conditions would appear to prevail.
They evidently don't - only we are unable to discern the relative differences so essential to the plant involved.
(High tech people might have trouble understanding this analogy - it may not apply to their carefully dosed and artificially encouraged/maintained planted tanks, but in such case applies even more, if differently, in making the point that different aims and systems are used and different conditions existing in many other people's tanks.)

A similar principle obtains to the B.) issue of plastic being a relatively ineffective medium for the propagation of beneficial bacteria.
While I certainly haven't conducted or personally verified the testing which indicates that certain materials work better than others in this regard, the general principle presented is that of rough surfaces being more suitable, while plastic - even when roughened - has a different basic composition (being formed of chemicals, with myriad differences in properties) than do other materials considered more suitable.
And while plastic media may appear to be doing an adequate job, it may not have the capacity to provide as much suitable surface area as would, say, that made of ceramic materials - without comparative testing, how would one know?
The only testing I myself have heard of indicates that plastic is not, in fact, a suitable material - there may be other, independent testing which consistently produces a different result of which I have never happened to hear.
The information presented simply appears to me to make sense, because the relevant research of which I've heard is supported by a general principle which appears to make sense to me.
And the variable exuding of endocrine disruptors and other chemicals from petro-chemical-based plastic materials may well have an effect on various bacterial colonies as well as the function of 'higher' life forms at a cellular level.
We must not forget that life is affected by multiple and ever-changing factors, even if we are unable to take all of these into consideration and are frequently doomed to generalize.
And we are creating a highly complex little box of life with highly complex and variable chemical/biological activity and reaction in each aquarium we set up.


Among other important points: C.) that oxygen as well as food is essential for the survival of beneficial biofilter bacteria, a factor previously, I believe, unmentioned in the thread and that there are numerous organisms potentially present, which can infect and multiply within stagnant nutrient-rich water standing in shut-down filters, many of which have the capacity to produce various toxins and other issues and which are unwanted in our tanks.

Certainly hydrogen sulfide is not the problem in freshwater tanks that it apparently potentially is in salt, and it is neutralized rapidly - small compensation to the fish caught in a first potential blast from a newly restarted filter.
However, there are other toxins potentially produced by any of a number of other bacteria/fungi which could - not necessarily but potentially - colonize filter media in such a case as is being considered.
There may only be an immediate serious problem apparent in one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shut down - I've no idea of the percentage.
I only know it's occurred, and that I, personally, wouldn't risk my fish on the assumption that it wouldn't 'this time'.
There may be more gradual problems introduced which are not immediately noticeable in only one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shutdown - there's no way even of establishing accurate attribution in many cases.
However, the probability of this occurring at some point in some tanks is a virtual certainty by any standards reasonably exercised.
Such issues, while not invariably occurring, are nonetheless potential and should be taken into consideration - there is always that aspect of Russian Roulette involved in merely reconnecting and running a filter after such a period of disuse, which cannot be negated by focusing on and dismissing only one of the myriad potential hazards which could result.
In any event, going by mentions I've seen, the response of those produced with horrifying evidence of their filters pumping out toxins into their tank water is not to grab a sample to be rushed to the lab, but to shut off the filter, perform a fast water change, and dispose of whatever fish perish as a result.
So the actual toxins produced, and the organisms producing them, have generally not been positively identified and the vast number of potential culprits may not even be considered.
The fact that any might be present in damaging amounts under particular circumstances is enough for some of us to wish to avoid the risk.

Of course, when I think of a filter, I automatically think of the HOBs and box filters running in my low tech tanks - others would think of sponge filters, others of canisters, etc. ...
Quite a difference even there...


D.) I, perhaps mistakenly, assumed the freshwater aquarium mud system referred to was likely that of the Walstad or some similar system, due to the mention of plant roots oxygenating the anaerobic areas, rather than the growth of macroalgae, which further illustrates another essential, universal point of the limitations of our personal knowledge/thought patterns influencing our perceptions and the context in which we place information - saltwater systems of which I know less than nothing would no more occur to me in this context than the points I'm attempting to make occurred to various respondents.
Different perspectives, with information necessarily aligned, assigned and considered according to our individual interests, knowledge and expectations - and it's difficult to know what one doesn't know and fails to consider as a result.
However, when considering the highly variable results from the same actions (as with the substrate change under discussion here,) possible among freshwater tanks commonly kept by many, with such variance in degrees of filter/tank/plant dependency among so many different people, the fast generalization is better set aside for a more considered and encompassing answer.
As pointed out, hydrogen sulfide is rarely a problem in well-oxygenated freshwater tanks, and anaerobic activity conducted beneath a gravel-capped or otherwise 'sealed' layer of earth in a well-planted tank (assuming reasonable substrate depth) is extremely unlikely to have any deleterious effect on the tank or the tank inhabitants.
The point I was considering to be of importance in that quote related more to the emphasis placed on oxygenation required for the survival of beneficial bacteria - this applying to filters subjected to extended shut-down periods and the concerns voiced earlier in the thread regarding this.

E.) The quote regarding the gravel plenum was included as interesting, as it demonstrated the degree to which the colonization of gravel by nitrifying bacteria can be used as biofiltration, in further support of whole-tank nitrification as a factor to be considered in such cases as the OP has presented here.

One factor involving the suitability of various substrate materials for supporting whole-tank nitrification involves the surface area offered for colonization - so that finer materials offering relatively more rough-surfaced area can support more beneficial bacteria than those coarser and having less.
Another factor involving the suitability of various substrate materials for supporting whole-tank nitrification involves the presence of a sufficient amount of oxygen/food to support beneficial bacteria.
As I was presenting a pile of quoted material indicating general principles necessary for determining the probability of the degree of various factors within the tank affecting individual tank function and potential effects from alteration, I neglected to specifically point out that sand, which compacts, can only provide an upper layer of surface for beneficial bacteria to propagate on, and tends to support anaerobic bacteria in the suitable conditions too easily provided beneath a layer which is too deep, undisturbed and/or unaerated, so thanks to Prankster705 for illustrating that principle so admirably in his example.
All known factors must be taken into consideration - not merely one or another, in such cases as this.
We are dealing with with biosystems although it's all too easy to assume a mechanistic, simplistic and predictable response from the living inhabitants of our tanks, as we do from the equipment we use.
While others may or may not agree, I personally believe that it's important to attempt to work out basic principles, by which likelihood of various potential effects can be reliably assessed, which are adaptable to the various ways in which our different tanks are set up and the differing conditions produced thereby.
And it's also very important to discuss and consider the different viewpoints and information on which the assumptions of others are based, as we may never know what we're missing in our evaluations until we do.
I'm finding this a very interesting discussion - anybody else? Awake, lol?
 
To aid the OP:

Doing it all in 1 go might be better, save fish the stress ;)


To aid the discussion:

Gravel contains close to no bacteria whatsoever in any tank - there's not enough flow and the oxygenation is bad in it, if an under gravel filter is introduced, than that can change, but it requires regular maintenance and is just not worth it.

Plastic is the best filter material in wet dry filters because it (bio balls, pot scrubbers) offers enough air and a giant surface area - there has been a lot of comparative testing done by hobby fish keepers because big tank owner tries to get best results from their wet-dry sump and that is indeed what plastic provides. Plastic used in such cases has no substances to deter life - bio balls being especially made for filters and pot scrubbers used are always warranted not to have any additives by the manufacturer.

Trying to think how to counter act every little thing that might happen to every 100th filter that has never been properly cleaned in the last million years on a maintained filter is just ridiculous.

An average filter (internal filters even more so) should do fine being cut off for a few hours as bacteria don't consume that much of it, as long as they don't dry out. Extended as in a week of it being cut from the tank would probably show, but we're talking about a rescape - a few hours.

Using gravel for full tank filtration is called relying solely on an under gravel filter - it might work if done properly and regularly cleaned in most cases it just becomes a waste of time, money and space, even worse so it becomes a vast nitrate factory. No need to try it when there are better more cost and time efficient solutions available. Relying solely on plants for filtration has been done and is done (plants can be algea in turf scrubbers or "real" plants), however I think this is hardly helping the OP ;).

Discussion is always nice and rare to find on this forum :P... Used to be better, always nice to have Andy around :):P.

P.S. Respect to people who have the time and can be bothered to post such lengthy replies ;).
 
Actually, some of the main points I felt might be pertinent include: A.) that there is typically enough nitrifying bacteria present throughout the average tank, beyond that present in the average filter, to make a difference, and to potentially produce an ammonia spike if destroyed:

Conditions vary considerably in different tanks ...

And most of us have far more substrate material in our tanks than filter media in our HOBs.

But we have far less flow of oxygenated water around the gravel so it becomes a far less desirable place for a colony to form. The simple fact is that when you have a filter connected up, the vast majority of bacteria will be in the filter media.

A similar principle obtains to the B.) issue of plastic being a relatively ineffective medium for the propagation of beneficial bacteria.
While I certainly haven't conducted or personally verified the testing which indicates that certain materials work better than others in this regard, the general principle presented is that of rough surfaces being more suitable, while plastic - even when roughened - has a different basic composition (being formed of chemicals, with myriad differences in properties) than do other materials considered more suitable.
And while plastic media may appear to be doing an adequate job, it may not have the capacity to provide as much suitable surface area as would, say, that made of ceramic materials - without comparative testing, how would one know?

By finding the results of comparative tests which look at surface area:volume and cost which exist around the net variously. What you have to remember is that most wet/dry trickle towers are much larger than a standard filter. I have used a total of about 30-40 litres of bioballs on my two towers. Buying the bioballs second hand cost me about £10-20. Doing that with ceramic would have cost a fortune.

The only testing I myself have heard of indicates that plastic is not, in fact, a suitable material - there may be other, independent testing which consistently produces a different result of which I have never happened to hear.
The information presented simply appears to me to make sense, because the relevant research of which I've heard is supported by a general principle which appears to make sense to me.

Care to actually provide a link to this research, or providing details about who has actually carried it out and where it has been done. Seeing as how plastics have been used in filtration of tanks and plants for a good 20-30 years now I would be surprised to see that they are now considered harmful.

And the variable exuding of endocrine disruptors and other chemicals from petro-chemical-based plastic materials may well have an effect on various bacterial colonies as well as the function of 'higher' life forms at a cellular level.
We must not forget that life is affected by multiple and ever-changing factors, even if we are unable to take all of these into consideration and are frequently doomed to generalize.
And we are creating a highly complex little box of life with highly complex and variable chemical/biological activity and reaction in each aquarium we set up.

Again, the practice suggests you are wrong. Unless you can provide some evidence I just cannot accept that plastics will stop my bacteria colony growing when I know that mine currently live on plastic.


Certainly hydrogen sulfide is not the problem in freshwater tanks that it apparently potentially is in salt, and it is neutralized rapidly - small compensation to the fish caught in a first potential blast from a newly restarted filter.

What problem is it in salt? It still hits water with oxygen and it will still be denatured by said oxygen. Hydrogen sulfide is used as a reason not to have deep sand in an aquarium lest the "evil bubbles" should form. In SW some people advocate a very deep sand bed (6" and greater) with the very intention of generating anaerobic conditions. You even mentioned the Plenum system which incorporates a very large deep sand bed (the original Jaubert system is from much larger systems where the sand bed depth is measured in feet rather than inches) so that anaerobic conditions can exist.

On the one hand you suggest anaerobic conditions are deadly due to hydrogen sulfide, and then you include mention of an anaerobic filtration system.

Also, can you actually reliably find one example of a fish having died from exposure to hydrogen sulfide as a result of the filter having switched off? I know I can't but I know of many people who have had fairly long power cuts where the fish have not died after the filter restarted.


However, there are other toxins potentially produced by any of a number of other bacteria/fungi which could - not necessarily but potentially - colonize filter media in such a case as is being considered.
There may only be an immediate serious problem apparent in one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shut down - I've no idea of the percentage.
I only know it's occurred, and that I, personally, wouldn't risk my fish on the assumption that it wouldn't 'this time'.
There may be more gradual problems introduced which are not immediately noticeable in only one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shutdown - there's no way even of establishing accurate attribution in many cases.
However, the probability of this occurring at some point in some tanks is a virtual certainty by any standards reasonably exercised.
Such issues, while not invariably occurring, are nonetheless potential and should be taken into consideration - there is always that aspect of Russian Roulette involved in merely reconnecting and running a filter after such a period of disuse, which cannot be negated by focusing on and dismissing only one of the myriad potential hazards which could result.

I'm sorry, "I know its occurred"? Know what's occurred? Do you actually have any evidence? And Russian Roulette from merely reconnecting and running a filter? Just how long aare we talking of it being disconnected from the tank/not running?

In any event, going by mentions I've seen, the response of those produced with horrifying evidence of their filters pumping out toxins into their tank water is not to grab a sample to be rushed to the lab, but to shut off the filter, perform a fast water change, and dispose of whatever fish perish as a result.
So the actual toxins produced, and the organisms producing them, have generally not been positively identified and the vast number of potential culprits may not even be considered.
The fact that any might be present in damaging amounts under particular circumstances is enough for some of us to wish to avoid the risk.

tl;dr: You have no evidence and (IMHO) the most likely "toxins" are people noticing that whenever you restart a cannister filter it spews out some muck that was hanging around in the pipe.



The point I was considering to be of importance in that quote related more to the emphasis placed on oxygenation required for the survival of beneficial bacteria - this applying to filters subjected to extended shut-down periods and the concerns voiced earlier in the thread regarding this.

The discussion earlier was more regarding keeping the filter media in some water but without a food source, indeed I mentioned that my figures were regarding a bacterial colony without food, not one without water or oxygen.

Quotes in bold italics from here as we seem to have a far too small limit on blocks of quoted texts for serious discussion (8)


E.) The quote regarding the gravel plenum was included as interesting, as it demonstrated the degree to which the colonization of gravel by nitrifying bacteria can be used as biofiltration, in further support of whole-tank nitrification as a factor to be considered in such cases as the OP has presented here.

Seriously, you cannot even begin to compare the Jaubert system to what the OP has. As I noted above, the original idea of the Jaubert system is a 2 foot deep sand bed (sand is preferred to gravel to decrease available oxygen quicker). Domestic uses tend to focus on a minimum of 6" fine grain sand. I highly doubt that the OP has 6" of fine sand in their tank with a plenum underneath that.

And just what is "whole-tank nitrification"?

We are dealing with with biosystems although it's all too easy to assume a mechanistic, simplistic and predictable response from the living inhabitants of our tanks, as we do from the equipment we use.
While others may or may not agree, I personally believe that it's important to attempt to work out basic principles, by which likelihood of various potential effects can be reliably assessed, which are adaptable to the various ways in which our different tanks are set up and the differing conditions produced thereby.


But we do work out basic principles:

1) Almost all filter bacteria are in the filter media. If that media is the gravel (UGF) then the substrate will have it, otherwise they will be somewhere else;
2) Our fish are alive means there is oxygen which means hydrogen sulfide will not be a problem;
3) Our filter colonies can survive being without food for some time due to their nature and slow die off rate.

And it's also very important to discuss and consider the different viewpoints and information on which the assumptions of others are based, as we may never know what we're missing in our evaluations until we do.
I'm finding this a very interesting discussion - anybody else? Awake, lol?


It is of some interest, but much of your post is opinion on what is going on in the tank without any evidence to back it up. I find it intriguing that on the one hand you seem against anaerobic areas due to hydrogen sulfide, but then champion systems which rely on them.

The idea of filters spewing toxins into the tank because they have been turned off for an hour or few seems somewhat ridiculous to me and anyone else who has had exactly the same happen to them.
 
Hi, prankster705,
as far as the plastic goes, I'm simply passing on what I have happen to have read.
As mentioned, I'm going by studies and comments I've encountered and the stated slick, non-porous properties of certain types of plastic, together with the fact that I've also read that beneficial bacteria doesn't grow well on glass and plastic surfaces - I'm certainly not criticizing the people who do use plastic as a filtration material and if it works well for you, then that's just ducky.
If you do happen to have a link handy to any studies, I'd be interested - Lord knows that lots of things labeled 'obvious', 'common-sense' or 'everybody knows' facts have been proven mistaken or misleading, and I do know many people swear by the scrubbies in their large filtration systems.

Also, there are so many variables involved - one interesting example:

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/eid/vol8no9/02-0063.htm


... The solid surface may have several characteristics that are important in the attachment process. Characklis et al. (6) noted that the extent of microbial colonization appears to increase as the surface roughness increases. This is because shear forces are diminished, and surface area is higher on rougher surfaces. The physicochemical properties of the surface may also exert a strong influence on the rate and extent of attachment. Most investigators have found that microorganisms attach more rapidly to hydrophobic, nonpolar surfaces such as Teflon and other plastics than to hydrophilic materials such as glass or metals (7–9). Even though results of these studies have at times been contradictory because no standardized methods exist for determining surface hydrophobicity, some kind of hydrophobic interaction apparently occurs between the cell surface and the substratum that would enable the cell to overcome the repulsive forces active within a certain distance from the substratum surface and irreversibly attach.
Conditioning Films
A material surface exposed in an aqueous medium will inevitably and almost immediately become conditioned or coated by polymers from that medium, and the resulting chemical modification will affect the rate and extent of microbial attachment. Loeb and Neihof (10) were the first to report the formation of these conditioning films on surfaces exposed in seawater. These researchers found that films were organic in nature, formed within minutes of exposure, and continued to grow for several hours. The nature of conditioning films may be quite different for surfaces exposed in the human host. A prime example may be the proteinaceous conditioning film called “acquired pellicle,” which develops on tooth enamel surfaces in the oral cavity. Pellicle comprises albumin, lysozyme, glycoproteins, phosphoproteins, lipids, and gingival crevice fluid (11); bacteria from the oral cavity colonize pellicle-conditioned surfaces within hours of exposure to these surfaces. Mittelman noted that a number of host-produced conditioning films such as blood, tears, urine, saliva, intervascular fluid, and respiratory secretions influence the attachment of bacteria to biomaterials (12). Ofek and Doyle (13) also noted that the surface energy of the suspending medium may affect hydrodynamic interactions of microbial cells with surfaces by altering the substratum characteristics. ...

... Other characteristics of the aqueous medium, such as pH, nutrient levels, ionic strength, and temperature, may play a role in the rate of microbial attachment to a substratum. Several studies have shown a seasonal effect on bacterial attachment and biofilm formation in different aqueous systems (17,18). This effect may be due to water temperature or to other unmeasured, seasonally affected parameters. Fletcher (19,20) found that an increase in the concentration of several cations (sodium, calcium, lanthanum, ferric iron) affected the attachment of Pseudomonas fluorescens to glass surfaces, presumably by reducing the repulsive forces between the negatively charged bacterial cells and the glass surfaces. Cowan et al. (21) showed in a laboratory study that an increase in nutrient concentration correlated with an increase in the number of attached bacterial cells. ...

... Tolker-Nielsen and Molin noted that every microbial biofilm community is unique (43) although some structural attributes can generally be considered universal. The term biofilm is in some ways a misnomer, since biofilms are not a continuous monolayer surface deposit. Rather, biofilms are very heterogeneous, containing microcolonies of bacterial cells encased in an EPS matrix and separated from other microcolonies by interstitial voids (water channels) (44). ...

Please note, however, that while that while '... Most investigators have found that microorganisms attach more rapidly to hydrophobic, nonpolar surfaces such as Teflon and other plastics than to hydrophilic materials such as glass or metals ...'. no comparison is made to the relative speed of attachment to/propagation on other materials - and the biofilms would appear to reduce many differences.
Since large industry uses plastic in their biological treatment of sewage and other such applications, it evidently works well enough.
But, if such things are mentioned, it gives those interested an option of looking into it for themselves and forming an opinion otherwise never tested.


One of the things I've been finding is that I, and others, tend to have difficulty thinking 'outside the box' which is hardly surprising, as we obviously are restricted by our own experience and available knowledge - my personal transition into a less-commonly used method of aquarium-keeping has shown how difficult it may be for us to alter often life-long assumptions and habits of thought.
I, for example, have not yet succeeded in taking any of my Walstads off the weekly water change rotation, even though I know it's bad for the tank/plants - and even though my water use is a VERY sore daily point in the household.
So I'm forced to the realization that it's important to consider things often unmentioned or unconsidered - and I'm trying to introduce a wider-range viewpoint not only in myself, but in anyone willing to wade through some of my lengthier posts, lol.

The main point I'd like to make actually goes beyond this particular example provided by the OP - that not everybody uses the identical methods providing identical conditions and that different actions can produce vastly different results in different tanks.

You, for example, use a wet dry filter in your example - your system has BIG strong filtration and the bacterial processing dependency in your tank is heavily filter-oriented.
That suits your purpose and your aims - you're a high-tech kinda guy.
The nice chappy checking in for advice on his low-stocked 20 gallon with an Aqua Clear and some plants has more bacterial input likely from other sources; a far higher proportion, comparatively speaking, of bacterial processing is likely to be provided by that on the plants, rock and gravel in his tank than would be in yours, with your very large, powerful filtration system.
In his case, the removal of that gravel could very well cause a spike.
Something that may not appreciably affect your type of high-tech/filtered tank could very well affect another's - not necessarily the OP's, but others.
And forum lurkers with tanks which might be affected by this type of substrate substitution are very likely to read this and decide it's perfectly safe for them, no need to monitor closely for potential results - or even be advised that it is necessarily so.

If you think about the fact that not only MTS but Khuli loaches can survive for long periods burrowing under and through the gravel in various tanks, it becomes evident that there is, indeed, clearly sufficient oxygen and food (ammonia from poop, for example) to support itty-bitty beneficial bacteria in that gravel as well.
The information released by equipment manufacturers naturally places emphasis on the actions of their filter and there's no funding for promoting free methods, so commerce likely both directly and indirectly provides a main source of official information in this area.
This works well for people interested in high-tech.
But the vast majority of people with fish tanks not only cannot afford high tech, but typically have different aims.

I notice that your immediate response to the mention of nitrifying bacteria in gravel pertains to the use of artificial (undergravel) filtration, which is typical of a great many of us.
But what I'm actually referring to isn't what's directly artificially supported within a mechanical filtration system but what naturally exists on surfaces within the average tank - and that's what I mean by thinking outside the box.
A high-tech system is managed in every area - dosing is precisely calculated, filtration is as strong as poss., plants are sculpted into elegantly designed and maintained underwater gardens - of course the proponents think only of what is done TO the tank by human intervention in tweaking everything to maintained perfection.
But in the average tank, typically, stuff happens and is encouraged or discouraged to varying degrees.
And some of us are attempting to support a balanced, more natural type of system, and learning (I hope, lol) to consider the complexity of life working together within our tanks - and some of us (me! anyway, lol) have the new convert's tendency to share our delight.

As you've probably noticed, people like Tom Barr, who's commented on the El Natural forum as well as here, often consider/experiment with new things, even though they have their own highly successful methods, because they're generally interested in seeing what works, even where the method differs entirely from their own.

And I thought I'd have a peek over there in finding an illustration of what I mean by different circumstances - got lucky pretty much off the hop and found the perfect example among commenters on a thread.

http://www.barrreport.com/general-plant-to...e+ammonia+spike

The OP:

... I want to do a major scape change and replace/remove some of my substrate. ...
My concern is basically losing bacterial filtration with the loss of the existing substrate and the effect on it's overall health and it's inhabitants.
I do not know how much of the beneficial bacteria exist in the substrate as opposed to the rest of the tank/filters/etc, but due to it's size in AREA (72X24), I suspect it is substantial.
Will this in effect cause a new tank cycle or even a partial spike? ...

From one commenter:

... I don't have all the answers to your questions but I can guarantee you that you will have an ammonia/nitrite spike and a mini cycle. I had this happen to me in my non planted 10G tank when I removed the top layer of substrate. In your case given the large surface area and also add to it the fact that you will move plants around causing them to pause with plant growth while they re-establish themselves in their new environment, I'd expect a pretty big "mini" cycle. I would think that you'd need to do daily water changes and dose ferts. You might still have algae issues due to the spiking ammonia levels. I would definitely take Tom's advice, or someone else with experience who has done this before.
...
From another commenter:

By the way when I changed out the substrate in my 10g tank...I did 100% at once (not too hard in a 10g) and had no ammonia or nitrite spike at all. I think it has to do with how fully loaded the tank is fishwise and how good your filtration is. With better filtration, more of the bacteria will be in the filter than the substrate so the chances of a minicycle drop somewhat. In my case, getting rid of my substrate which was caked with living or dead bga and other algae of various sorts, and hiding a lot of yucky stuff which got removed when the substrate came out, actually reduced the bioload of the tank and possibly offset any minicycle I might have had otherwise.
...
If there's enough beneficial bacteria present within the substrate in a filtered tank for its removal to cause an ammonia spike, it's part of the system - whole-tank nitrification is involved.
And please note that the respondent with the spike and mini-cycle had this occur in a NON-planted tank therefore lacking any assistance in ammonia/ammonium reduction.

As you see, there may or may not be a problem, depending on circumstances such as tank/filtration types - showing how different tanks can respond VERY differently to similar alterations - something to bear in mind, and worthy of mention and concern, as with the shut-down of a filter for any extended period.

The quoted material I used '... One final tip for maintaining helpful bacteria is to not turn the filter off, except for maintenance, especially with a canister filter. ...' had no concerns over shut-down for maintenance, and the concern was not actually with a short duration of shut-down but with that of a lengthier period.
The examples of problems I mentioned having encountered on my travels through various fish-related sites generally involved power outages and unnoticed disconnections ranging from overnight to several days - I had no intention of implying that a brief shutdown of a couple of hours would be likely to produce problems, merely that an extended shutdown formed a legitimate subject of concern and was worthy of mention/consideration, rather than casual dismissal.
If you noticed, what I stated specified an 'extended filter shut down' (which I'd consider, correctly or not, implied more than a few hours, in context with the quote) as a 'potential hazard', and one where I stated I had NO IDEA of the actual percentage of risk:
... There may only be an immediate serious problem apparent in one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shut down - I've no idea of the percentage.
I only know it's occurred, and that I, personally, wouldn't risk my fish on the assumption that it wouldn't 'this time'.
There may be more gradual problems introduced which are not immediately noticeable in only one of a hundred or even a thousand cases of extended filter shutdown - there's no way even of establishing accurate attribution in many cases.
However, the probability of this occurring at some point in some tanks is a virtual certainty by any standards reasonably exercised.
Such issues, while not invariably occurring, are nonetheless potential and should be taken into consideration - there is always that aspect of Russian Roulette involved in merely reconnecting and running a filter after such a period of disuse, which cannot be negated by focusing on and dismissing only one of the myriad potential hazards which could result. ...

So if one of my tanks was disconnected or if (heaven forfend) a power outage occurred which resulted in one or more filters being inactive for, say, a period of 8-12 hours, I wouldn't use the media - if this happened to you, you might.
Problems might or might not result in either case - I personally don't feel that either choice is ridiculous, it merely boils down to an individual concept of risk assessment.
But the potential degree of risk is something to be borne in mind.

The OP might not have been considering a longer duration than several hours of filter shutdown, however, the concern voiced regarding potential problems with filters left stagnant for any period of time was worth consideration, and I quoted a pertinent section in response, offered as something to think about.

Discussion is nice, isn't it?
P.S. - respect to anyone who can be bothered to read my lengthy replies, lol.


And just in case of any interest - and, of course, 'if not essential' means precisely that it likely is:

(Please also note from below: ... All surfaces in the aquarium offer a potential home to the community of aerobic bacterial that metabolize ammonia finally to nitrate. The uppermost surfaces of the substrate are a prime location for these populations, as you know. ...
And from excerpt from linked article following this: ... The nitrifying bacteria will become fixed in any location where theres a good supply of oxygen (since the main process of the cycle is aerobic, i.e., in the presence of oxygen). However, the colonies will prosper in places where there isn't too much light, and where the water current doesn't disturb them too much. ...)
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/nutrient/nitcyc.shtml

... Competition for ammonium. In a well-planted aquarium, ammonium is also quite likely to be scavenged by plants before the nitrifying bacteria even get a chance at it. Aquatic plants use ammonium in preference to nitrate, if they can get it. So in planted tanks like mine, plants and nitrifying bacteria are direct competitors in scavenging any available ammonium. Diana Walstad has recently been teaching us that aquatic plants prefer ammonium (NH4) and its toxic (to animals) counterpart ammonia (NH3) to nitrate. She points out, "Nitrifying bacteria are helpful, if not essential, in tanks without plants. However, in planted tanks they compete with plants for ammonia. The energy nitrifying bacteria gain from oxidising ammonium to nitrate is an equivalent energy loss to plants." (The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium, p 63) The "if not" construction is always ambiguous, but I think she meant "helpful, even essential" rather than "helpful, though not essential."

I had always assumed that aquarium plants were assimilating nitrate, as I "knew" garden plants do. But no. It seems that when both ammonium and nitrate are available, tests show that aquatic plants don't take up appreciable quantities of nitrate until the ammonium is gone. The presence of some ammonium actually inhibits the uptake of bacterially-produced nitrate, not just in plants but in a range of other nitrate-users--— algae and fungi too. Algae it now appears don't assimilate nitrate if the NH4 concentration is higher that about 0.02 mg/L. I don't have a hobbyist test kit that could even register that level of ammonium.

Diana Walstad avers that extensive bio-filtration may slow plant growth. At first I was skeptical, reading this. But soon I recalled a phenomenon I've noticed in a densely-planted 10-gallon tank I use intermittently for quarantine. It's a sturdy, balanced environment, but the bioload represented by fishes varies: it may have a single small Siamese Algae-Eater for a month, lie empty for a week, then receive a dozen tetras. A new load of fishes can trigger a noticable spurt of plant growth. Not unexpectedly. But then plant growth levels off again, I've noticed. Bacteria tend to live at the brink of starvation. When they are presented with new resources, they characteristically increase their population, until they are once again living on the edge, in true Malthusian fashion. Now, in my intermittently-used Q-tank, during the brief period while bacteria are catching up to take advantage of new sources of ammonia, there is a temporary supply of it to fertilize plants, resulting in the spurt of new growth. Soon, however, the system restabilizes in a new dynamic balance, available ammonium drops to zero, and plant growth returns to its previous maintenance level of leaf replacement. So, now I'm convinced that extensive bio-filtration may indeed slow plant growth. Many knowledgeable aquarists would remain more skeptical than I am.

De-nitrification, you remember, is the other "arc" that completes the nitrogen cycle. All surfaces in the aquarium offer a potential home to the community of aerobic bacterial that metabolize ammonia finally to nitrate. The uppermost surfaces of the substrate are a prime location for these populations, as you know. The nitrification process demands a lot of oxygen, more than familiar cellular respiration. Only a few centimeters below the substrate's surface, the diffusion of oxygen can't keep up with demand. As oxygen levels drop, facultative anaerobic bacteria find their niche. "Facultative" in this sense merely means "opportunistic." Many ordinary bacteria are facultative anaerobes; when oxygen is in short supply, these kinds of bacteria are able to switch to a metabolism that doesn't require oxygen. Instead, they use nitrate. The familiar nitrating bacteria provide the nitrate, and their high oxygen demands also tend to exhaust the limited supply. So besides providing the nitrate, a thriving microzone of aerobic nitrifiers provide the low-oxygen conditions too. You can visualize a mutually beneficial exchange between the two types of bacteria across a fluctuating boundary lying not far beneath the surface of the substrate. If there were no other reason not to disturb the substrate in an aquarium, this would be enough for me.

In fact there are two different chemical pathways that provide energy for de-nitrating bacteria. In one, some of them metabolize nitrate to nitrous oxide (N0), harmless, colorless non-reactive "laughing gas." It dissolves in water and finds its way back to the atmosphere, completing the nitrogen cycle. In the other chemical pathway, members of this anaerobic community metabolize some nitrate back to nitrite or ammonia. And if the nitrogen still hasn't been scavenged by the roothairs of plants, eventually still other members of the anaerobe community produce molecules of di-nitrogen (N2). Chemically inert and harmless, dissolved in water and diffused back into the water column, the molecules of nitrogen gas also eventually escape into the atmosphere. You see why this "other arc" of the nitrogen cycle is called "de-nitrification." Diana Walstad says, "for aquarium hobbyists, de-nitrification is a harmless bacterial process that helps prevent nitrate accumulation." (in The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium, 1999, p. 65).

A freshwater plenum. The idea of encouraging this bacterial community and applying to planted freshwater aquaria the reefkeepers' "Jaubert" system, with a low-oxygen area in the lower substrate (the "plenum") where de-nitrification proceeds, seems to have been kicked around first by Australian David Aiken, posting to the Aquatic-Plants Digest in the winter of 1997. His post is worth searching out if you have planted tanks and dare to reduce your sponge filters and bio-wheels, and let the plants handle the ammonia instead. A further less optimistic 1999 post from Roger Miller is also worth reading. To supplement my few thoughts in the filtration pages about a freshwater "plenum" try running "freshwater-plenum" through www.google.com. ...

Article above links to http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_ciclo.php

... The nitrifying bacteria will become fixed in any location where theres a good supply of oxygen (since the main process of the cycle is aerobic, i.e., in the presence of oxygen). However, the colonies will prosper in places where there isn't too much light, and where the water current doesn't disturb them too much. This is the most important part of the Nitrogen Cycle in terms of fishkeeping, but actually it doesn't stop here. As an example, if oxygen runs short in the water, Nitrate can be transformed back into Nitrite or, through a process called denitrifying, it can be transformed by anaerobic bacteria back into nitrogen gas (N2), and the cycle is complete. ...
 
Crikey, a simple discussion about changing the substrate has turned into a full blown scientific debate, interesting but beyond the scope of the OP's needs. I think we can agree that the couple of hours needed to drain the tank, replace the substrate, rescape and refill won't have a major affect on the filter bacteria. What will kill it off is if you let the media dry out, or if you then run the tank without any fish present to feed the bacteria colony. Like has been said you may be happier running the filter in a bucket to keep the water flowing through it so at least the bacteria don't die through lack of oxygen.

The choice of sand for the substrate is a good one and really benefits the fish. My cory's and BN plecs are really enjoying the sand in my new tank and seem to have loads of fun digging in the sand.
 
wow... another wall of text, too tired to read through all but the 1st paragraph of it this time (been up for over 18 hours)

I don't personally use plastic because it doesn't work optimal in my set-up - plastic media is a great cost efficient way to filter large tanks with large sumps (which mine is not) - it's cheap and it does the job well... if I wanted 20 gallons of the stuff I use in a wet dry, I'd spend around 1500 quid lol, not really worth it - plastic does the job just fine, and most if not almost all big tanks with big fish are filtered using plastic. It's been tried time and time again and it has proved itself every time.
 
Seriously, there is no need to quote such huge amounts when you are posting links to scientific articles. Using a blunderbus does not always help your answer. Case in point:

as far as the plastic goes, I'm simply passing on what I have happen to have read.

...

Most investigators have found that microorganisms attach more rapidly to hydrophobic, nonpolar surfaces such as Teflon and other plastics than to hydrophilic materials such as glass or metals ...'.

...

But, if such things are mentioned, it gives those interested an option of looking into it for themselves and forming an opinion otherwise never tested.

Your own link points out that the biofilm attaches to plastic rather than glass an metal, indicating it is not a bad choice for filter medium. If you had looked at what many people (including large industrial sized set ups) use you would have seen that plastic works fine and maybe it would have made you question the reliability wherever you first read the claim rather than just repeating it here.

You, for example, use a wet dry filter in your example - your system has BIG strong filtration and the bacterial processing dependency in your tank is heavily filter-oriented.
That suits your purpose and your aims - you're a high-tech kinda guy.

The nice chappy checking in for advice on his low-stocked 20 gallon with an Aqua Clear and some plants has more bacterial input likely from other sources; a far higher proportion, comparatively speaking, of bacterial processing is likely to be provided by that on the plants, rock and gravel in his tank than would be in yours, with your very large, powerful filtration system.
In his case, the removal of that gravel could very well cause a spike.
Something that may not appreciably affect your type of high-tech/filtered tank could very well affect another's - not necessarily the OP's, but others.

High tech? I have water falling through a sponge and then over plastic. Hardly high tech when compared to many planted set ups. From reading between the lines (and I may be well off here) you seem to attribute high tech to almost anyone who doesn't follow Wansted's route to filtration.

If the person uses a UGF then there is the chance of a spike. If they use an adequate filter it just doesn't happen unless they have performed no maintenance for ages and have a ton of detritus collected in the gravel (another reason not to use it). Many a person on here has changed from gravel to sand whilst using a sponge or HOB filter with no issues. You just seem completely unwilling to look at the experience of others in relation to this.

If you think about the fact that not only MTS but Khuli loaches can survive for long periods burrowing under and through the gravel in various tanks, it becomes evident that there is, indeed, clearly sufficient oxygen and food (ammonia from poop, for example) to support itty-bitty beneficial bacteria in that gravel as well.
The information released by equipment manufacturers naturally places emphasis on the actions of their filter and there's no funding for promoting free methods, so commerce likely both directly and indirectly provides a main source of official information in this area.
This works well for people interested in high-tech.
But the vast majority of people with fish tanks not only cannot afford high tech, but typically have different aims.

But nowhere near as much as in the filter which has a much better flow of the tank water and thus oxygen and food. The bacterial colony in the best place will grow largest and by far the best place in a tank is in the filter.

And most people cannot afford high tech? When you consider any filter that isn't a UGF or planted filterless tank high tech? Now you are starting to sound very wide of the mark. Most people in the hobby will have a powered filter, either an internal, HOB or cannister. These will provide fantastic areas for the colony of bacteria to grow. We know that works because we can take this media and use it to seed other tanks instantly (clone them). This will not and never does work with taking gravel from a tank which has a powered filter because there just is not a sufficiently sized bacterial colony contained therein. From that one can extrapolate that the vast majority of the filter colony is on the filter media.


A freshwater plenum. The idea of encouraging this bacterial community and applying to planted freshwater aquaria the reefkeepers' "Jaubert" system, with a low-oxygen area in the lower substrate (the "plenum") where de-nitrification proceeds, seems to have been kicked around first by Australian David Aiken, posting to the Aquatic-Plants Digest in the winter of 1997. His post is worth searching out if you have planted tanks and dare to reduce your sponge filters and bio-wheels, and let the plants handle the ammonia instead. A further less optimistic 1999 post from Roger Miller is also worth reading.

Plenums have been used by SW for much longer than I am aware in FW (and certainly more extensively in home set ups). If you are really interested go and have a look at Reef Central for all the tanks that have been nuked when the DSB goes wrong and dumps all those nutrients back in the tank for you. The DSB in a Jaubert system has a tendency just to store nutrients rather than process them, meaning they are not removed form your system. The general feeling is that unless you want a 2 foot sand bed, there are much better ways of doing it, especially as the nitrate to nitrogen route in anaerobic conditions is more fragile in FW than SW.


Edit

Forgot to add picture:

Picunrelated.jpg
 
Hi, prankster705,
sorry about the wall of text; I copied the pertinent sections which were quoted so as to save people digging through articles/papers looking for them, and in order to provide a sort of synopsis.
Hope you were up late for good reasons, not bad ones, and the marathon was worthwhile.
I can certainly empathize with tired - I have some progressive health issues which often make me very tired, and which evidently affect my ability to express myself clearly, sigh.
Afraid I assumed you were using that sort of large-scale system, thanks for clearing that up.
Re the plastic - while it still does seem to me that the properties of plastic are not typically conducive to maximizing attachment/growth of nitrifying bacteria, the portions of the related article quoted, once read, make it evident that the biofilm discussed does indeed, potentially in conjunction with many other variable factors affecting attachment, overcome many differences in materials of virtually any type and allow attachment, explaining why the plastic media works despite the seemingly unsuitable characteristics of the material in many forms, including that of the scrubbies so frequently used, while the variability of the multiple factors involved explained the potential for differences in test conditions and therefore results.
While a biofilm was actually the only conditional candidate of which I could think which might enable this degree of attachment, finding/reading that paper explained and confirmed this (and more) and resolved the apparent contradiction involved.
Honestly, I find the complexity of biological/chemical interactions involved in aquaria absolutely mindboggling, but while I haven't any hope of understanding them in all their various permutations or, indeed, at all, they certainly are fascinating.
So you see, I've answered my own questions regarding this.
And there's such an immense feeling of satisfaction in the resolution of an apparent paradox.
The cool thing is, I would never likely have found time to look up what superficially seems a minor 'someday' point, if such a commotion hadn't resulted from a single mention in a quoted section of text - showing the advantage of such discussion.
I appreciate your time and input - thanks.

Hi, andywg,
we do seem to be talking at cross-purposes here, to an amazing degree.
Perhaps if we defined our terms:

Assigning meaning of terms in a situation where different standards are commonly used by various individuals in categorizing high/low tech is difficult -
I personally tend to use the definition of high tech/low tech outlined in debate on the El Natural forum, as below

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...-tech-el-3.html

MattS: ... The low tech approach attempts to work as closely as possible within the parameters that nature gives us in the tank in order to create a balanced and self sustaining ecosystem -or at least a "low maintenance" ecosystem. As noted by Jane, the high tech approach generally represents an increasing manipulation of parameters (adding CO2, ferts and so on) in order to lift those natural limits on plant growth. These are often presented as diametrically opposite approaches, however it is possible to concieve of a gradient between low tech and high tech of increasing manipulation of various parameters. Even the low techies here will dose to change unfavourable water parameters and nuke algae with various concoctions. ...

littleguy: ... Some people like to distinguish the two types using hard numbers, parameters, equipment, substrates, lighting, CO2, words like "artificial" and "natural", and so forth. I say these are all secondary characteristics.

To me, the primary distinction is PHILOSOPHY. The equipment, substrate, etc. are simply METHODS to achieving the philosophy but should not be confused for the philosophy itself.

As I see it:
A low-tech aquarist wants to minimize the amount of required human interaction with the tank to maintain stability. Aquarium self-stability is the highest priority to the low-tech aquarist. As Whiskey said - the plants [and other things] aren't micromanaged. They're left to their own devices for weeks or months. As Jane said, she can leave home for the weekend at a moment's notice and not worry about the system crashing.

The high-tech aquarist makes aesthetics the highest priority of the tank. They want to be able to paint a picture and use the aquarium as a canvas. They'd like to have a wide variety of paints (plants and fish) available. They don't mind putting in extra effort (e.g. pruning, monitoring, dosing, etc.) to build the vision of beauty they imagine in their mind.

Of course there is a spectrum between the philosophies, and most of us espouse elements of both.

Now there are some common METHODS people use to achieving these philosophies.

The "El Natural" or Walstad approach is a complete package for achieving low-tech ideals - namely self-stability. The Quackenbush style is another method to achieving a low-tech tank.

Tom Barr and many other folks have developed and refined other approaches that allow one to achieve the high-tech philosophy successfully. These methods specify a dosing regime (e.g. the estimative index EI, etc.), CO2 levels, nutrient levels, water change schedules, etc. But these are just a means to achieving the philosophy.

In the end, yes, there's commonality in the equipment, substrate, etc. used by low-tech or hi-tech folks. But to me the equipment doesn't define the style as much the philosophy does. ...


So that's where I'm coming from on this - as many different definitions are used, yours is undoubtedly different.
This also is something that needs to be taken into consideration, in order to place things in appropriate context.


I don't really want to add to the wall of text by quoting you quoting me so I'll assume you can link the appropriate comments together.


A major question was - why, (or indeed how well,) does plastic, with apparently unsuitable physical properties, nonetheless used by industry and many aquarists, appear to work, which was answered in my previous post, by the paper on biofilm attachment of nitrifying bacteria.
There were multiple essential points contained within the quotes regarding the variables involved - if you read them, you'll see the point, if you don't, then the length seems unlikely to form a concern, lol.
I like to know WHY, rather than necessarily accepting what somebody else says or does when there are anomalies clearly apparent, and I think this is a very interesting discussion, producing not only information but expanding known principle to include highly variable factors which must also be included, if only as potentials, in consideration.


Oddly enough, the point I'm trying to make in the quote you used is that there are multiple different experiences - that different types of tanks/filtration can produce vastly different results through the implementation of similar procedures, (such as substrate removal,) and that these, and the experiences of other people, should be taken into account, rather than dismissed without due consideration.

A related point is that different methods/sizes of filtration do produce vastly different percentages of bacterial populations in various areas, so that this potentiates one of the major differences in responses within various tanks to similar alterations.
A previous point I made was that a large filtration system concentrates a high percentage of nitrifying bacteria in that filter, affecting a potential response to the loss of nitrifying bacteria within substrate which, importantly, differs in various tanks with different filters, and that such factors must be taken into consideration in predicting the likelihood of potential consequence - however, the mere fact of filtration being present does not preclude a potential effect from the removal of substrate and accompanying nitrifying bacteria from a tank.

I have never brought UGF into the conversation - that was introduced by another, through a misunderstanding where it was assumed that the presence of any useful levels of nitrifying bacteria in substrate must necessarily be contingent on some form of filtration device.

Actually, quite a number of people with HOBs and other filters do use gravel/mulm to seed tanks with nitrifying bacteria - I can certainly quote bucketsfull, but in view of the previous wall of text, I'll wait until you request this.
The mere fact of having any filter in a tank does not automatically obviate the fact, or all potential effect, of whole-tank nitrification; the relevant bacteria typically exists on gravel/rocks/plants throughout the average tank and has effect to varying degrees which may not be apparent until the removal of the substrate causes a corresponding level of ammonia spike.

I don't regard basic filtration as high tech, lol - in fact, on the opposite end of the spectrum from what I term high tech, many people with Walstads use HOBs or other filters for water movement/mechanical filtration, although in such cases, any mechanical filter media is typically frequently changed so as to prevent filter dependency from developing in competition with the plants.

The quote not only regarded the ability, or lack of ability, of many to purchase expensive equipment, but reiterated the fact that different people have different aims - that not everybody follows the same methods, that not everybody has the same tank conditions or can expect the same results from similar alterations.
Part of that quote: ... The information released by equipment manufacturers naturally places emphasis on the actions of their filter and there's no funding for promoting free methods, so commerce likely both directly and indirectly provides a main source of official information in this area. ...
I've noticed references in this thread to nitrifying bacteria as 'filtration bacteria', as one likely example of influence, effectively implying that nitrifying bacteria is automatically associated directly only with artificial filtration systems.
We do need to expand and to think outside the box, if we are to understand the variance in types/conditions/potential effects of alteration among different tanks among different people on this forum.

The paragraph regarding the plenum was at the end of the article quote and was not deleted.
My bad.

The picture was actually quite funny - a touch of levity is exactly what we need.

Your thoughts?
 
The high tech thing - lets see, I have an oversized canister filter, 2.4 WPG T5 lightning, pressurized CO2 and 2" fish per gallon stock. Most people would regard this technology as high tech, this however does not equal a a lot of work, while I do my best to do weekly water changes, I can leave for a weekend without a moments' notice as well, it has gone without a water change for 3 weeks (omg, torture, well lack of health, was closely monitored though) and except for plants growing way out of control and it requiring a giant trim, nothing bad happened... I don't see how it requires a lot of time (except to dose ferts and feed the fish, but you have to feed the fish in any set-up) ;). So, expensive technology does not equal a lot of time spent, obsession with the tank's look does though, regardless of what you use.

There is always a possibility that in the very few cases that a gravel change makes an ammonia spike that the gravel had a lot of waste in it (many plant people don't gravel vac, poo = fertilizer) and it got disturbed and degraded faster than normally ;).

I'd love to type more, but I have to go (bassoon practice... yes Andy, I still play :P) :/.
I wasn't up late, I went to sleep at 8pm lol, my sleep schedule just happens to be ruined since the new year ;). And yes, it was for a good reason.


Since we're into pics...

political-pictures-bush-photoshop.jpg
 
May I just say thank you massively. I definately got my answer alright :hyper: And I'm glad that my OP managed to spark such a great discussion.

To those that put so much effort into this post...you're a credit to the forum. There's easily enough knowledge here to put pen to paper as such and produce a wonderfully useful book.

Thanks again.
 
Hi, andywg,
we do seem to be talking at cross-purposes here, to an amazing degree.
Perhaps if we defined our terms:

Assigning meaning of terms in a situation where different standards are commonly used by various individuals in categorizing high/low tech is difficult -
I personally tend to use the definition of high tech/low tech outlined in debate on the El Natural forum, as below

[URL="http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...-tech-el-3.html"]http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumap...-tech-el-3.html[/URL]

MattS: ... The low tech approach attempts to work as closely as possible within the parameters that nature gives us in the tank in order to create a balanced and self sustaining ecosystem -or at least a "low maintenance" ecosystem. As noted by Jane, the high tech approach generally represents an increasing manipulation of parameters (adding CO2, ferts and so on) in order to lift those natural limits on plant growth. These are often presented as diametrically opposite approaches, however it is possible to concieve of a gradient between low tech and high tech of increasing manipulation of various parameters. Even the low techies here will dose to change unfavourable water parameters and nuke algae with various concoctions. ...

littleguy: ... Some people like to distinguish the two types using hard numbers, parameters, equipment, substrates, lighting, CO2, words like "artificial" and "natural", and so forth. I say these are all secondary characteristics.

To me, the primary distinction is PHILOSOPHY. The equipment, substrate, etc. are simply METHODS to achieving the philosophy but should not be confused for the philosophy itself.

As I see it:
A low-tech aquarist wants to minimize the amount of required human interaction with the tank to maintain stability. Aquarium self-stability is the highest priority to the low-tech aquarist. As Whiskey said - the plants [and other things] aren't micromanaged. They're left to their own devices for weeks or months. As Jane said, she can leave home for the weekend at a moment's notice and not worry about the system crashing.

The high-tech aquarist makes aesthetics the highest priority of the tank. They want to be able to paint a picture and use the aquarium as a canvas. They'd like to have a wide variety of paints (plants and fish) available. They don't mind putting in extra effort (e.g. pruning, monitoring, dosing, etc.) to build the vision of beauty they imagine in their mind.

And here you have made your first huge error. There is so much more to keeping tanks than planted tanks. To most people they envisage a high tech tank being one where huge amounts of complicated equipment are being used and a low tech one being nice and simple.

By your scales I am zero tech. I don't keep plants. The only thing I does a tank with is dechlorinator (when I feel like it). I have no supplementary CO2 injection and my light tubes have not been changed for over 3 years.

I think your largest problem in this discussion is that you seem to have a narrow interest in the hobby encompassing planted tanks and seem unable to truly comprehend those that have tanks purely for fish.

Of course there is a spectrum between the philosophies, and most of us espouse elements of both.



I don't regard basic filtration as high tech, lol - in fact, on the opposite end of the spectrum from what I term high tech, many people with Walstads use HOBs or other filters for water movement/mechanical filtration, although in such cases, any mechanical filter media is typically frequently changed so as to prevent filter dependency from developing in competition with the plants.

So why did you accuse my systems of being high tech then, just because I am not running a Walsted tank?

The quote not only regarded the ability, or lack of ability, of many to purchase expensive equipment, but reiterated the fact that different people have different aims - that not everybody follows the same methods, that not everybody has the same tank conditions or can expect the same results from similar alterations.

I would put forward a different thought; that you made the quote because you assumed I had a planted tank and as such it must be high tech to overcome the issues that form of filtration causes without stopping to think that maybe my tanks are not in any way focussed on plants.

So people with a HOB filter can take some of their gravel and instantly cycle (clone) a tank? I somehow doubt that. It may certainly aid in a cycling tank, as too would putting an ornament in a tank, but using filter media instantly cycles the tank. I know for a fact that taking any of the substrate from my tanks would be pointless.
 
Hi, Andypalf,
thanks for letting us have this interesting discussion, glad you're enjoying it too.
More information than you might have bargained for, no doubt, lol.
So I'm guessing everything worked well and with desirable smoothness?
As you see, if you move fast enough, we might even let you get a word in edgewise on your own thread. :lol:


Hi, Prankster,
I do hope the health issues have cleared up and you're ok now?
It's pretty cool that you play the bassoon, I don't believe I've ever 'met' anyone who does before.
And I'm glad to hear there were good reasons for missing sleep - I hope you had fun.
You're right, I would consider your set-up to be high-tech, although the amount of work doesn't actually limit the definition as it includes the amount of human intervention affecting the system, which also includes the type and amount of man-made equipment/dosing, etc. used to increase the tank potential beyond that which might otherwise be expected, whether pertaining to plant growth and/or fish stocking.
(... A low-tech aquarist wants to minimize the amount of required human interaction with the tank to maintain stability. ...)
It's always a problem working to clearly define anything which contains so many variables and to which so many different people apply different criteria...
There was a better and more concise definition given somewhere on one of the older El Natural threads, but I'm darned if could remember which one, what year, or where.
So I tried to provide a 'close enough' definition so that we could all do so, and reach some degree of understanding.
And you are very right, that the amount of time spent fussing with the tank appearance is highly self-determined by personal goals.
Your tank is clearly well-balanced, but not micro-managed.
You are also very right in pointing out that disturbing mulm in substrate removal or for any reason can trigger an ammonia spike.
However, the particular cause to which I was referring was that of tanks with a lower degree of filter dependence in which a higher relative proportion of nitrifying bacteria exists in the tank itself, and where such removal, together with the substrate in which it predominately grows, can cause ammonia spikes to occur.

Cute pic - but are you sure it really was photoshopped? :fun:


Hi, Andywg,

sadly, we clearly continue to misunderstand each other, and have not yet been able to discover what either of us is missing in what the other is saying.
Personal experience, outlook and expectation invariably colour perception - this is precisely why it is important to try to see beyond this, outside our own little box.
However, I'm only able to try to clarify the explanation of my perception of the discussion, and must depend upon you to attempt to clarify yours.

Broadly speaking, main points I consider to be of concern and have frequently reiterated are that: different aims/methods/equipment/dosing typically produce different tank conditions which typically produce correspondingly different potential results even under otherwise similar circumstance/alteration, as these influence the biology and chemistry within; that varying levels of varying organisms may propagate in varying areas and times according to available conditions and their own propensities/presence; that it's important we recognise such differences and variance among tanks and attempt to take potential results into consideration.
I consider these to be principles which broadly - not partially - apply.

I keep trying to make the basic point that different methods of aquarium-keeping produce different results and conditions.
You, like others with certain types of equipment and methods of aquarium management, may very well not have sufficient nitrifying bacteria within your tanks, other than in your filters, to make a perceptible difference if/when substrate is removed - however, others may.
Not everyone uses large filtration systems; many people, particularly betta-keepers, a large and growing group, cannot have a high current environment.
The proportional degree of nitrifying bacteria throughout such tanks as these, particularly within their substrate, is therefore likely to be far higher than it would be in a system using a wet-dry or other large system which would concentrate the bulk of nitrifying bacteria within themselves - and may contribute sufficiently to the internal processes of the tank that their sudden absence may produce an ammonia spike.
Also existing are a far larger proportion of people having smaller tanks and/or filtration systems than there are people who want and can afford larger tanks and powerful filtration systems.
And many people also prefer to have lower-stocked tanks and minimal equipment, in the same manner that many who can afford relatively expensive equipment and tanks stocked at higher levels, or with fish such as Discus or saltwater varieties which require very specific conditions, prefer to have these.
It's a matter of individual capacity and/or choice - which produce different environmental conditions within these different tanks.
Where any potential for problems exist in a given situation, it's best to be aware of these so that monitoring can be conducted and any issues promptly responded to.
Since a great many people not only request advice from people on this board, but are likely to read and gain information from the posts of others, it's a good idea to have potential problems mentioned periodically for this reason as well.

Within the past few decades, the field of mycology was discovered to be virtually wide open - vast numbers and types of fungus commonly present in the air within the typical indoor environment were discovered to have been chronically overlooked because unsuitable culture media was routinely used in testing - many completely unidentified/unstudied at that point and many shown to produce damaging toxins.
These provide but one example of potentially toxic sources likely to propagate in the nutrient-rich, stagnant environment of a inactive filter.
Blue-green algae, for example, potentially carries a variety of often pathogenic organisms, viruses, bacteria and fungi, which are commonly parasitic on or otherwise associated with, cyanobacteria in many aquatic environments.

http://lakes.chebucto.org/cyano.html#Measures
... Micro-organisms (fungi, bacteria and viruses) appear to play an important part in regulating growth of blue-greens in freshwaters. Certain chytrids (fungal pathogens) specifically infest akinetes, other heterocysts. Bacterial pathogens belonging to the group of Myxobacteriales can effect rapid lysis of a wide range of unicellular and filamentous blue-greens, though heterocysts and akinetes remain generally unaffected. Viral pathogens belonging to the group of cyanophages exhibit some degree of host specifity. Phage AR-1 attacks Anabaenopsis, phages SM-1 and AS-1 are effective against the unicellular forms, Synechococcus and Microcystis, Phage C-1 lyses Cylindropermum, and the LPP-1 virus is effective against strains of Lyngbya, Phormidium and Plectonema. ...

Cyano can be present in an aquarium without being necessarily visible, and indeed frequently is; it's ubiquitous within the environment, under both wet and dry conditions.

http://fig.cox.miami.edu/Faculty/Dana/cyano.html
...Found in almost every conceivable habitat, from oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil, cyanobacteria produce the compounds responsible for "earthy" odors we detect in soil and some bodies of water (such as those being cyanobacterially cleaned at water treatment plants). The greenish slime on the side of your damp flower pot, the wall of your house or the trunk of that big tree is more likely to be cyanobacteria than anything else. Cyanobacteria have even been found on the fur of polar bears, to which they impart a greenish tinge! ...

It is important that we take such potential issues into account - not because they will necessarily cause problems within our tanks, anymore than any number of other things (such as the general potential for occasional serious/stressful aggression displayed by one fish to another) necessarily do, but because they exist as potentials and are worthy of mention and consideration.

It can be said of us all, that more exists in heaven and earth than exists in our philosophy.
And while you've brought up many interesting side-issues, (and I'll be eternally grateful for your providing the incentive to locate that paper on biofilm attachment in aquatic bacteria,) we don't seem to have tackled any of the points I've raised in a constructive manner yet.
Perhaps if we clear the latest lot of side-issues out of the way, we can get down to some substantive discussion of the more basic issues.

Again, in the interest of reducing post size, I'll assume you can associate the appropriate replies with the comments you've made.


Planted tanks were used as the example in defining my terms for obvious reasons - the method I'm following, (as well as my personal preference,) happens to be based on healthy plant growth - it is this plant growth that provides the basis of the Walstad system.
This example was clearly stated as one intended to show where I'm coming from and the response anticipated was for you to define where you were coming from, so that we could form some basis of understanding because so far there has been no meeting of minds and we seem to be having difficulty in discussing the same issues.

I'm trying to understand how we are failing to communicate and to reach some degree of understanding; generally the first step is to define the terms under which each party operates.

Quite a number of people these days do not have live plants, or not an appreciable number of live plants, in their tanks.
Among the general population, this is, I believe, predominately due to the low capacity for light generation supplied by the manufacturers of commonly sold tank canopies and other such equipment, which effectively forced people to additionally and separately buy specialized and relatively expensive lighting systems or reflectors/adapters (at least up until the advent of the CF bulb) in order to successfully grow a variety of plants.
In other cases, certain fish/biotope types render live plants too difficult or undesirable, as do other conditions, such as personal preference.

There's nothing wrong with high tech, any more than there is with low or medium, and I would hardly regard a reference to a tank as high tech as an 'accusation' - if you felt somehow accused I'm certainly sorry for this, and assure you that there was no such intention.
If I'm in error about the categorization of your tank, I do apologize - however, this again is a side-issue to that introduced, as I was hoping to establish a productive discussion through our defining our terms in this manner.
While information about your tank was released, your definitions and any attempt at approximating the categorization of what you'd term your tank type appear to be absent; is there another method you can suggest whereby progress could be made in increasing mutual understanding?

The quote to which I believe you may possibly allude,( ? ) in my example of contrasting potential filtration types and levels in a previous post ( ? ), referred not to planted tanks, or to anything related to the Walstad method, which relies predominately on plant uptake of ammonia, etc. with whole-tank nitrification secondary to this, but to the potential for variance in the relative percentage of nitrifying bacteria throughout various non-Walstad, filtered tanks, due to such things as varying degrees of filter dependency.
If I am correct in my assumption of the pertinent reference, plants were not an issue in this.

Perhaps I'd best copy the example to which I believe you may be referring, in order to establish this:

... You, for example, use a wet dry filter in your example - your system has BIG strong filtration and the bacterial processing dependency in your tank is heavily filter-oriented.
That suits your purpose and your aims - you're a high-tech kinda guy.
The nice chappy checking in for advice on his low-stocked 20 gallon with an Aqua Clear and some plants has more bacterial input likely from other sources; a far higher proportion, comparatively speaking, of bacterial processing is likely to be provided by that on the plants, rock and gravel in his tank than would be in yours, with your very large, powerful filtration system.
In his case, the removal of that gravel could very well cause a spike.
Something that may not appreciably affect your type of high-tech/filtered tank could very well affect another's - not necessarily the OP's, but others. ...

Was this indeed the passage to which you referred?
Because it was the removal of the gravel and accompanying loss of nitrifying bacteria which formed the example itself, something to which the presence or absence of 'some plants' was actually irrelevant.


Actually, one of the major points I've been trying to make relates to the wide variety in methods and resultant conditions common among aquariums, as was, I thought, clearly stated in the quote you selected; i.e., ... - that not everybody follows the same methods, that not everybody has the same tank conditions or can expect the same results from similar alterations. ...
If there is a manner in which I can phrase this more understandably, I wish somebody would suggest it.

As stated, because of your large filtration system, you'll have the bulk of your nitrifying bacteria within your filter, one thing on which we seem to find common agreement.
Not everyone else will, and those with lower filtration levels will likely have a higher proportionate level of beneficial bacteria throughout their tanks, particularly within the substrate.

There was actually no claim made that seeding mature gravel/mulm would instantly cycle a tank: what was said was: ... Actually, quite a number of people with HOBs and other filters do use gravel/mulm to seed tanks with nitrifying bacteria ...
It appears possible that you are labouring under the misapprehension that the existence of sufficient beneficial bacteria within the substrate of a tank to affect tank functioning and potentially cause an ammonia spike if removed necessarily equals the effect of a cycled filter, or that somehow only one or the other can contain any useful amount of bacteria.
Many factors may contribute to the function and health of a tank without obviating, equaling, or exceeding the contributions of others.


Our frames of reference - even the connotations placed by each of us on the same phrase or sentence - appear to be so divergent that we derive entirely different meanings than were intended.
It would be nice if we were engaged in the same discussion - something which does not yet appear to have occurred.
 
Too many walls of text with far too large quotes.

tl;dr:

OF course not everything is the same, but I think you over estimate both the number of people with inadequate power filtration and the size of the bacterial colony in tanks where powered filtration occurs.

If such a sizeable colony was always present then one would expect a bare bottom tank to be much harder to sustain as it is missing this backup of bacteria. In practice they are far easier to keep clean and are favoured by those with sensitive fish.

The issue of you saying my tank was high tech was mostly brought up by me to point out you are coming from a far more narrow position of reference than your weasel words and walls of text would initially appear.

And now I shall take my leave. I tire of having to read through a wall of text for a point which can be made in a paragraph or two.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top