My next project an african tank

vantgE said:
I'm not sure about the substrate it is likely not necesary, I have a special african cichlid substrate like a fine gravel. It is mixed in with my sand (mostly sand-playsand) it looks fine but is a pain to clean, actually I pretty much don't even bother vacumeing it because of this. It may just be the sand (my only sand tank), but to get any crap up I have to put the syphon almost in the substrate. You should be fine with out any buffer, do you know your ph? and if you want to use something the gravel should work fine in your cannister, I have some in my fluval 403, buy a fluval bag filter bag,

The cichlids will also prefer the sand.
My tap water is 7.2 but moderately hard.
 
Mike&Diana said:
I am actually in the process of setting up an african tank myself. After countless hours of research I have settled on some of the fish already mentioned. Unfortunately, one store does not have all three. I have to stop at THREE different stores. Anyhow, here they are:

Labidochromis Caeruleus (common name yellow lab; also one of the most popular cichlids available)

Pseudotropheus Acei (they are yellow with blue tails.. or blue with yellow tails.. I forget)

Pseudotropheus Saulosi (I believe males are blue and females are yellow)

With my smaller tank (40G) these fish should work well together. They don't get much larger than 4-5 inches and are some of the more tame Malawi species. The Saulosi can be easily confused with some Kenyi and Socolofi which I have heard are not recomended because of their size and or aggression for tanks smaller than 55G. I also used a sand substrate and purchased a sizable amount of Texas Holey Rock (limestone) to help raise the PH a bit. They also prefer the holes to swim through and claim territory. Good luck!

Mike
I'm going to do almost the same thing.

I just need to find out what sort of stone can help raise PH.

I've LOVE LOVE to use marble as I think that'll buffer the PH.
 
Also could I not just put some sort of media into the filtration to buffer the PH to the proper level?


FYI my LFS that I'd likely buy most of the fish from actually keep their africans at 7.0
 
I honestly wouldn't worry about raising your pH.

The vast majority of Mbuna you will purchase will have been tank raised in any event and so know no different than a standard pH such as your LFS's at 7.

Only wild caught Mbuna are going to have an issue with lower pH levels.

steve
 
The filter is the best place to put crushed coral, shells, or other material to help buffer your water because the water is forced through it at a high rate - but you'd need a canister filter, or something that will hold enough of it to make a difference. With a PH of 7.2 I'd be inclined to use some method to help buffer the water, since it is starting to get a little low.

Measuring the KH is also important since this will give you an idea of how stable conditions will be. Buffering becomes more important with a low carbonate hardness, and a lower ph usually comes with a lower kh. The crushed coral will help with this, and you can also manually add baking soda with each water change to get it to a desirable level, if it's really low.

Also, make sure you measure the ph after it's been aerated for a while - it will change from tests taken straight out of the tap, as co2 is released and oxygen absorbed.

Even if the LFS keeps the fish at 7.0, it's nice to have the PH at at least 7.5. What fish stores do shouldn't affect what we do - they keep fish for entirely different reasons.
 
fish_r_great said:
This is what I have but its the sand.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...=1&N=2004&Nty=1

Looks very nice and I think it raises your pH. :D
Probably very similar to what I was looking at
http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/produc...id1=1695;pcid2=


I talked to the wifee about it and she really really wants (doggy's she calls them) Yellow labs but doesn't want 5 large tanks in the house.

Guess I'll have to just do it subtly.

My plan is to convert my dining room into a fishroom since we never actually eat in there.
 
fish_r_great said:
Seems to me you only have one large tank in the house a 125. ;)
To her anything bigger than the 5G hex's is a "big tank"
 
Mike&Diana said:
Pseudotropheus Acei (they are yellow with blue tails.. or blue with yellow tails.. I forget)

Pseudotropheus Saulosi (I believe males are blue and females are yellow)

Pseudotropheus Acei
BlueI think with yellow tails, colorblind but it's the blueish looking body to me

Pseudotropheus Saulosi
Males are blue with darker blue vertical stripes
 
Also

I agree with 7.2 try and make sure your ph hardness raised by a little bit of buffering if you got some you'l be fine
These fish could work in a 30gallon to if that'll make it go smoother in look for twelve fishes there, but if thats still big for the other, go for the 55
 
vantgE said:
Also

I agree with 7.2 try and make sure your ph hardness raised by a little bit of buffering if you got some you'l be fine
These fish could work in a 30gallon to if that'll make it go smoother in look for twelve fishes there, but if thats still big for the other, go for the 55
Nah if I do it it's gonna be a 55.
Plus my LFS sells a 55 with hood and lights for $99 and since they're not picky about lighting I don't have to spend a ton of money on lighting.
 
ok I'm adjusting tank size to 75G (still 48" long)

So what would my stocking level be again. Assuming primary species being yellow labs and suitable tank mates what would proper number of fish be?
 
Sky042 said:
ok I'm adjusting tank size to 75G (still 48" long)

So what would my stocking level be again. Assuming primary species being yellow labs and suitable tank mates what would proper number of fish be?
getting the 75 rather than a 55 wont really give you more options for stocking. biggest footprint is best and they are the same. :huh:
 
Well since 20 fish was the number suggested for a 55 I figured that on a 75(20 more gallons and more surface area) that I could stick in a few more.
 

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