Making my own root tabs, figuring out how much of what I need to buy.

[OliveFish05]

I have used seachem root tabs in the past. I would break one tablet into 2 or 3 piecs and place them near the base of plants. I only have anubias now so no need for root tabs, just occasionally add seachem comprehensive and seachem trace elements.

I used to use seachem tabs, but they discolored the substrate so badly and were so pricey I stopped using them. It is visible in the way my plants have gone downhill since then, so I’ve been looking for a widely available alternative.

 

[Fishmanic]

API also makes root tabs but they're just as costly as seachem and may give you the same result of discoloring the substrate...not sure though

 

[StevenF]

I have read, they have high iron and promote the red colors in plants while being completely aquarium safe and used by many.

Many believe iron is the cause of the red color in plant. Simply because iron oxide is red. The fact is that the red color in plants is from carbon based pigments in plants. The actual iron content in red plants is about the same as green plants.

some people have gotten better red color by restricting nitrate. However I tried that in my tank and it didn't work. So overall no one knows why in some tanks red plants are green while in other tanks they are red.

 

[itiwhetu]

Just use fish poo. Don't go putting things in with your fish that you don't understand. If your tank spins out of control, then what are you going to do. Have you got another tank, have you got a plan B, do you know what to look for as signs your fish are not coping?

 

[OliveFish05]

Just use fish poo. Don't go putting things in with your fish that you don't understand. If your tank spins out of control, then what are you going to do. Have you got another tank, have you got a plan B, do you know what to look for as signs your fish are not coping?

My problem is my Amazon swords are not doing well. I am trying to find a root supplement for them because I know they are root feeders. What should I do?

 

[Byron]

I have always heard Swords are heavy root feeders. Do you have any recommendations for a different root supplement type fertilizer? There are most likely different products here in the US though.

My problem is my Amazon swords are not doing well. I am trying to find a root supplement for them because I know they are root feeders. What should I do?

Yes, species in the genus Echinodorus are heavy feeders. However, some nutrients, like nitrogen (ammonia/ammonium) are taken up via the leaves. As is oxygen, hydrogen, carbon. The nutrients taken up by roots are obviously primarily in the substrate, or at any r4ate in the water circulating through the substrate. Substrate tabs definitely help here; I have had a few species of this genus for all the years I have had aquaria, and without any question they always do much better with root substrate fertilizers. I have very soft water so the GH is basically zero. Calcium deficiency in the swords was an issue, and increasing GH with Equilibrium did help; but this increase in GH, even though not significant, was considered in relation to my fish and deemed risky (by a marine biologist), so I stopped using Equilibrium. Calcium deficiency reappeared, but this time I decided to use Flourish Tabs, one every 3 months next to each of the larger swords. The plants sprang back and calcium deficiency disappeared, and it has been some 7 years now.

Seachem's Flourish Tabs are without question excellent substrate fertilizer. Twelve years ago I tried Nutrafin's Plant-Gro Sticks, and they were probably even more incredible--I have never seen swords double in size within a few weeks like they did, and sent out inflorescences like crazy. I have not been able to find these sticks since then, I assume they do not make them (I should probably contact Nutrafin and find out definitely). So I went with the Flourish Tabs, and they have made a fairly big difference, no question. They also have the benefit of not leeching nutrients into the water column, so algae cannot benefit. Osmocote is the exact opposite, it encourages algae due to all the nitrate and phosphorus.

Above you mentioned discolouring the substrate...I have never had that. You need to bury them, poke them down into the sand and don't disturb them. As for price, when you consider that you replace them every 3-45 months (I do 3 months because of my lack of calcium in the water, you may well be fine with 4 months) they are not that expensive. I am currently only using them in my 40g which has 7 sword plants; a package of 40 costs me $30 CDN (probably cheaper in the US) and with 7 every 3 months a package of 40 lasts over a year--I do not consider that expensive considering the benefit to my plants and my fish.

 

[Byron]

API also makes root tabs but they're just as costly as seachem and may give you the same result of discoloring the substrate...not sure though

I've never had the discolour issue with Flourish Tabs, but I will mention that the API are not as beneficial as FC. FC only release nutrients as the plants use them, so they do not get into the upper water column, thus do not encourage algae. A big plus for FC. They are certainly incredible fertilizer, as I detail in my post to the OP.

 

[itiwhetu]

My problem is my Amazon swords are not doing well. I am trying to find a root supplement for them because I know they are root feeders. What should I do?

Use gravel on the base of your tank, don't vacuum, and leave the plants alone to get established.

 

[OliveFish05]

Use gravel on the base of your tank, don't vacuum, and leave the plants alone to get established.

I have sand in both my tanks because of the tank inhabitants. Axolotl in one and pygmy cories in the other.

 

[itiwhetu]

I have sand in both my tanks because of the tank inhabitants. Axolotl in one and pygmy cories in the other.

Both of those fish can live happily on a gravel substrate

 

[Colin_T]

Axolotls do better in sand because some of them are thick and eat the gravel. Then it causes blockages in their gut and they die. Sand is less likely to cause this.

For Olive, grow the swords in plastic containers as mentioned in post #4. It will allow the swords to feed from the nutrients in the substrate in the container, but limit/ prevent nutrients leaching into the water.

 

[Byron]

Both of those fish can live happily on a gravel substrate

No, they cannot.

 

[OliveFish05]

Oh goodness I missed a bunch of posts earlier. Gonna go back and read those

 

[OliveFish05]

Yes, species in the genus Echinodorus are heavy feeders. However, some nutrients, like nitrogen (ammonia/ammonium) are taken up via the leaves. As is oxygen, hydrogen, carbon. The nutrients taken up by roots are obviously primarily in the substrate, or at any r4ate in the water circulating through the substrate. Substrate tabs definitely help here; I have had a few species of this genus for all the years I have had aquaria, and without any question they always do much better with root substrate fertilizers. I have very soft water so the GH is basically zero. Calcium deficiency in the swords was an issue, and increasing GH with Equilibrium did help; but this increase in GH, even though not significant, was considered in relation to my fish and deemed risky (by a marine biologist), so I stopped using Equilibrium. Calcium deficiency reappeared, but this time I decided to use Flourish Tabs, one every 3 months next to each of the larger swords. The plants sprang back and calcium deficiency disappeared, and it has been some 7 years now.

Seachem's Flourish Tabs are without question excellent substrate fertilizer. Twelve years ago I tried Nutrafin's Plant-Gro Sticks, and they were probably even more incredible--I have never seen swords double in size within a few weeks like they did, and sent out inflorescences like crazy. I have not been able to find these sticks since then, I assume they do not make them (I should probably contact Nutrafin and find out definitely). So I went with the Flourish Tabs, and they have made a fairly big difference, no question. They also have the benefit of not leeching nutrients into the water column, so algae cannot benefit. Osmocote is the exact opposite, it encourages algae due to all the nitrate and phosphorus.

Above you mentioned discolouring the substrate...I have never had that. You need to bury them, poke them down into the sand and don't disturb them. As for price, when you consider that you replace them every 3-45 months (I do 3 months because of my lack of calcium in the water, you may well be fine with 4 months) they are not that expensive. I am currently only using them in my 40g which has 7 sword plants; a package of 40 costs me $30 CDN (probably cheaper in the US) and with 7 every 3 months a package of 40 lasts over a year--I do not consider that expensive considering the benefit to my plants and my fish.

This is incredibly helpful as the main plant in my tanks is swords. They have visibly shrunk (obviously not physically shrunk, but lost many of their larger leaves so they’re smaller) in the last 2 weeks. I will stick with the flourish tabs then. My problem with the discoloration in my sand was likely caused by me uprooting plants and shifting the substrate during water changes. I have since learned to be more careful and hope to see some improvement.

Was the Seachem Equilibrium risky for your fish because if the increase in GH? I planned to use this to increase the GH in my axolotl tank as they need a higher GH than my water is and I am looking for a way to make it more suitable (aiming for around 8 GH, compared to the 4-5 mine is right now)

 

[OliveFish05]

Looking around I can get 80 tabs for $38. Much better than the $14 I was spending for 10! Thank you.