life rock

[hyrookin]

Im not sure about the v volt, but 175w m.h. would definitely be enough
for a 10 gal.

 

[Max]

Im not sure about the v volt, but 175w m.h. would definitely be enough
for a 10 gal.

ok but what about the other one, 1 60W buble and 1 25W bulb blue spectrum...?

 

[hyrookin]

are those VHO? if so, I would think they would be sufficient as well,as long
as they are the right spectrum.

 

[Max]

um... well the 60W one is just a regulare house light, the blue specrtum 25W is a corral light...?

 

[hyrookin]

the blue coral light is most likely actinic,which is fine, but as far as
the house light, that wont cut it.you would need something like 5000 K
sunlight, or a coralife bulb, etc.

 

[Max]

the blue coral light is most likely actinic,which is fine, but as far as
the house light, that wont cut it.you would need something like 5000 K
sunlight, or a coralife bulb, etc.

it didnt say how many lunems the blue bulb was... so how would i know if its good enough

 

[Underwaterfragglerock]

Dude, I am very surprised that you did all this in one day. The smaller the tank, the more tricky the cycling process. Cycling a ten gallon with two fish might be a nightmare. Next time just let the live rock do some cycling for ya before you add the fish. Good luck with that! Do water changes like every day buddy, keep on it. B)

Secondly, just to set the record straight (in my experience that is) you DON'T need a PSkimmer if you don't have fish because the coral you have dosen't cause such a spike like the fish would in chemical levels.

Thirdly, I believe it to be good practice to hold fish to a bag for no longer than one hour (anemones for four hours tops, coral 12). First, float the bag in your tank to allow the temp. of the bag water to slowly adjust to your tank's temp. Secondly, the "shot glass method": while the bag is floating, add one shot glass-sized amount of your water into the bag to allow the water to slowly "change" to the characteristics of your tank's water (Ph, Nitrate, Salinity, etc.). Add one shot glass every five minutes for the next 20-30 minutes (so many peeps suggest longer, but you can see all the stuff I have, and I haven't had a problem once with stressed out fish due to this acclimation process I use). After this, remove the fish (or watever) out of the bag with a net. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT because you certainly don't want to mix the store's water with yours in case of differences in Ph, salinity, chemical levels (perhaps even disease?). Gently place the fish in the water and hope for the best.

P.S: while floating the bag, try to floa it in a place where a lot of action in the tank is not taking place. Ex: away from filter, powerheads, other fish (if possible). Also, with coral or anemones, always turn down your lights so that just the aictinic (blue) ones are on. This makes the acclimation process that much smoother for everyone, including your existing fish. Hey, try it on acclimating fish too? Can't huurt! 8)
(wow, after all this work I finally have some advise to give! yay!

 

[Max]

Dude, I am very surprised that you did all this in one day. The smaller the tank, the more tricky the cycling process. Cycling a ten gallon with two fish might be a nightmare. Next time just let the live rock do some cycling for ya before you add the fish. Good luck with that! Do water changes like every day buddy, keep on it. B)

Secondly, just to set the record straight (in my experience that is) you DON'T need a PSkimmer if you don't have fish because the coral you have dosen't cause such a spike like the fish would in chemical levels.

Thirdly, I believe it to be good practice to hold fish to a bag for no longer than one hour (anemones for four hours tops, coral 12). First, float the bag in your tank to allow the temp. of the bag water to slowly adjust to your tank's temp. Secondly, the "shot glass method": while the bag is floating, add one shot glass-sized amount of your water into the bag to allow the water to slowly "change" to the characteristics of your tank's water (Ph, Nitrate, Salinity, etc.). Add one shot glass every five minutes for the next 20-30 minutes (so many peeps suggest longer, but you can see all the stuff I have, and I haven't had a problem once with stressed out fish due to this acclimation process I use). After this, remove the fish (or watever) out of the bag with a net. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT because you certainly don't want to mix the store's water with yours in case of differences in Ph, salinity, chemical levels (perhaps even disease?). Gently place the fish in the water and hope for the best.

P.S: while floating the bag, try to floa it in a place where a lot of action in the tank is not taking place. Ex: away from filter, powerheads, other fish (if possible). Also, with coral or anemones, always turn down your lights so that just the aictinic (blue) ones are on. This makes the acclimation process that much smoother for everyone, including your existing fish. Hey, try it on acclimating fish too? Can't huurt! 8)
(wow, after all this work I finally have some advise to give! yay!

oh... well every thign went fine except i lost one fish and the other is fine... i think the other one was sick when i got him... (i duno but he never was ok...) right now every thing is fine.... except the ph is a little high... about 8-9... (i think?) but so far so good...

 

[leanne]

Just for info there is a huge difference between 8 and 9. Each unit on the pH scale is acually 10 times more basic/acidic than the previous one!! So I'd keep a careful eye on it if it fluctuating that much. Ph 8 isn't too high - 8.2 is what you should be aiming for. Best of luck

 

[Navarre]

Leanne is correct, there is a HUGE difference between a PH of 8.0 and 9.0!
8.1 is ten times more Alkaline than 8.0. 8.2 is 10 times more than 8.1 and so on.. so a PH of 9.0 is seriously going to do damage to your fish and corals.
I run mine at 8.3 and its very stable at this level. I would strongly recomend that you stablise the PH before introducing anything to the tank. Anything above 8.5 is dangerous IMO. )

 

[Max]

oh... i got the exact one now... its 8.4, so thats a bit high? so far so good, but i have a huge alge problem, i think its alge

 

[bgraber]

Ok man, I'm gonna come out and say it.. You're going about this all wrong. Well not All wrong but you made a couple costly mistakes. Don't buy anything else for this tank. Let it run as is.. The algae problem will right itself in a couple weeks/month.. Just wait it out.. Hows the temperature in that? Fluctuates up and down? Hows your salinity? PH should be 8.2 or 8.3 but dont go throwing anything in there to get it down.. It's ok. You should have just ran the tank with the rock for a few days.. no lights.. Then turn the lights on.. 8 hours a day. Too much light and you have algae.. Leave the lights off for a day or two.. See if you can take the clown(or whatever is still alive) back to the store for credit.. Take this step by step otherwise everything will die and noone will be happy.. Please? PM me if you want.. BTW, the R/O water was a good idea..

 

[Max]

Ok man, I'm gonna come out and say it.. You're going about this all wrong. Well not All wrong but you made a couple costly mistakes. Don't buy anything else for this tank. Let it run as is.. The algae problem will right itself in a couple weeks/month.. Just wait it out.. Hows the temperature in that? Fluctuates up and down? Hows your salinity? PH should be 8.2 or 8.3 but dont go throwing anything in there to get it down.. It's ok. You should have just ran the tank with the rock for a few days.. no lights.. Then turn the lights on.. 8 hours a day. Too much light and you have algae.. Leave the lights off for a day or two.. See if you can take the clown(or whatever is still alive) back to the store for credit.. Take this step by step otherwise everything will die and noone will be happy.. Please? PM me if you want.. BTW, the R/O water was a good idea..

its been... 3 weeks about... one fish died a blue damsel who must have been sick from the start because he had never acted noram my clownfish is doing good, but he likes beta food (is that ok for him? i figure its just liek regular flakes) and i trade off every day from flakes to brineshrimp. i think i am doing good.... ok here is what i am looking at for a light, a 50/50 20W 10k light think thats good...

bgrabber i do understand i should have waited and on my next tank i am goign to cycle if for about 2 months as you usaly should.

my ph is down to normal, 8.3 and i ordered an anemone on ebay

my alge is a big problem so i am going to buy some snalls (from ebay also! )

 

[Navarre]

Although people have had success with anemones under flourescent lighting I would not attempt to keep on in anything less that Metal Halides. I havew a Condy anemone under twin 150w halides (10k and 20K bulbs). With poorer light an anemone will tend to wander far more in search for better quality and stinging everything in its path. They usually end up blended in the powerheads when they go walkabout and this cause pollution as well as a dead anemone.

 

[Max]

ok, medal halides are a bit expancive think it will be ok for 2 weeks?
if not maybe my lfs would hold onto it for me while i get a new light....