ricko10
Fish Fanatic
can anyone give me any ideas with raising killi fry. i have nothobranchius eggersi red eggs on the way. do all of the species require salt and what is best temp and current flow?
Killifish
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Nothobranchius eggersi (red)
You should have a hatching date on the bag of eggs you recieved from the vendor. Take a good sized margarine tub (white is best for seeing the fry) float this in an aquarium with about 30mm of water depth in the tub. Cooler water is better 68'F to wet the peat in and let it equalise to the main aquarium tank temp 74'F. Eggersi eggs take between 3-4 month diapause before they are ready to hatch. (please note the date you have been given) You will be able to know when they are ready to hatch by inspecting the peat with a hand held magnifying glass, you will notice the eye by a golden ring around the iris if you can see this then they are ready to hatch. Not all will hatch at once, wet the peat for 2 days collect the fry with an eyedropper and transfer them into another margarine tub with same water depth and quality. Take the peat and squeeze out the water and lay it on a kitchen tissue and allow to dry until it is the coinsistancy of pipe tobacco then rebag and store it in a warm place for a 2-3 weeks and repeat the above proceedure. You may well find you have more fry on the second or third hatches from the same clump of peat.
The fry tub should be supplied with an airline set to a very slow trickle an some floating plant such as Indian fern or Salvinia should be added to provide some infusorians a few days before expectant occupants. You can now feed newly hatched brineshrimp and microworm. Vinegar eel also if you have the time and patience.
Any uneaten food should be removed soon after feeding again I use a syringe with a piece of airline attached for this. Feed the fry little and often 4 feeds per day. Each day perform a water change in the tubs gradually increasing the water depth by about 1/2" per day. Nothobranchius fry grow quickly and it wont be long before they start to sex out (about 26 days) Seperate the larger males as they can be quite quarrelsome (as most nothos are) A they grow move them on to 12"x8"x8" tanks then unto 24"x12"x12" tanks to mature. Feed young adults on mostly live and frozen foods as dry foods are usually snubbed. The life expectancy for Eggersi is 16-18 mths under aquarium conditions. You do not ask about breeding therefore I will not proceed any further, If you are sucessful in rearing the fry and wish to carry on raising another generation and have any more questions then don't be afraid to ask.
Regards
BigC
You should have a hatching date on the bag of eggs you recieved from the vendor. Take a good sized margarine tub (white is best for seeing the fry) float this in an aquarium with about 30mm of water depth in the tub. Cooler water is better 68'F to wet the peat in and let it equalise to the main aquarium tank temp 74'F. Eggersi eggs take between 3-4 month diapause before they are ready to hatch. (please note the date you have been given) You will be able to know when they are ready to hatch by inspecting the peat with a hand held magnifying glass, you will notice the eye by a golden ring around the iris if you can see this then they are ready to hatch. Not all will hatch at once, wet the peat for 2 days collect the fry with an eyedropper and transfer them into another margarine tub with same water depth and quality. Take the peat and squeeze out the water and lay it on a kitchen tissue and allow to dry until it is the coinsistancy of pipe tobacco then rebag and store it in a warm place for a 2-3 weeks and repeat the above proceedure. You may well find you have more fry on the second or third hatches from the same clump of peat.
The fry tub should be supplied with an airline set to a very slow trickle an some floating plant such as Indian fern or Salvinia should be added to provide some infusorians a few days before expectant occupants. You can now feed newly hatched brineshrimp and microworm. Vinegar eel also if you have the time and patience.
Any uneaten food should be removed soon after feeding again I use a syringe with a piece of airline attached for this. Feed the fry little and often 4 feeds per day. Each day perform a water change in the tubs gradually increasing the water depth by about 1/2" per day. Nothobranchius fry grow quickly and it wont be long before they start to sex out (about 26 days) Seperate the larger males as they can be quite quarrelsome (as most nothos are) A they grow move them on to 12"x8"x8" tanks then unto 24"x12"x12" tanks to mature. Feed young adults on mostly live and frozen foods as dry foods are usually snubbed. The life expectancy for Eggersi is 16-18 mths under aquarium conditions. You do not ask about breeding therefore I will not proceed any further, If you are sucessful in rearing the fry and wish to carry on raising another generation and have any more questions then don't be afraid to ask.
Regards
BigC
ricko10
Fish Fanatic
thanks bigc. i will take you up on that. i have aalso ordered the beira98 species and i guess raising should be the same. will the 2 types mix well or will they cross breed?
Don't cross breed! Keep in seperate species tanks.
Nothobranchius rachovi Beira98 is a different commodity altogether. Their incubation/diapause takes longer 6-9mths the fry are way smaller and are too small to accept newly hatched brineshrimp straight away. Set up is the same as mentioned before but provision of infusorians is a must for a couple of days until the rachovi fry are large enough to consume BS.
In my early days in the hobby I lost batches of rachovi fry due to not providing microscopic livefood, therefore they starved to death. No joke after you've gone to the trouble of incubating the eggs for nine months.
Good Luck
BigC
Nothobranchius rachovi Beira98 is a different commodity altogether. Their incubation/diapause takes longer 6-9mths the fry are way smaller and are too small to accept newly hatched brineshrimp straight away. Set up is the same as mentioned before but provision of infusorians is a must for a couple of days until the rachovi fry are large enough to consume BS.
In my early days in the hobby I lost batches of rachovi fry due to not providing microscopic livefood, therefore they starved to death. No joke after you've gone to the trouble of incubating the eggs for nine months.
Good Luck
BigC
ricko10
Fish Fanatic
just had my first hatch. 20 so fa.
should i put salt in the water?
should i put salt in the water?
no...not really necessary should have had it already in the parent tank dont just add salt to a fry tank willy nilly... I take it yer worried about velvet desease.
Carry on what youve been doing and feed the little buggers. Relax
Regards
BigC
Carry on what youve been doing and feed the little buggers. Relax
Regards
BigC
ricko10
Fish Fanatic
Now collected about 60 fry, 30 from each. Just hope they survive till adult hood...
Thats excellent, have faith, you'll get there, Nothos grow very quickly..they have to as annuals.
Try to resist doing anything drastic because something has gone wrong, usually its a simple fix.
Keep doing small constant waterchanges daily with parent tank or water from the aquarium that you hatched them from and keep feeding 3-4 times daily (little and often) you should always provide enough food so as the fry in their early days dont need to spend too much energy having to go looking for it but also be aware of cleanliness is paramount neglect this side and your on a downward spiral.
Best of luck mate and keep posting updates perhaps with some pics so we can see what you've got there. Even if it's only of the setup.
Regards
BigC
Try to resist doing anything drastic because something has gone wrong, usually its a simple fix.
Keep doing small constant waterchanges daily with parent tank or water from the aquarium that you hatched them from and keep feeding 3-4 times daily (little and often) you should always provide enough food so as the fry in their early days dont need to spend too much energy having to go looking for it but also be aware of cleanliness is paramount neglect this side and your on a downward spiral.
Best of luck mate and keep posting updates perhaps with some pics so we can see what you've got there. Even if it's only of the setup.
Regards
BigC
ricko10
Fish Fanatic
A quick update.
Lost about 50% of the eggersi red fry but none of the others. Also have had success with hatching F. Gardneri lafia, (about 30 fry) but poor hatch rate with the australe gold. Eggs looked fine and ready but only 1 fry so far.
Lost about 50% of the eggersi red fry but none of the others. Also have had success with hatching F. Gardneri lafia, (about 30 fry) but poor hatch rate with the australe gold. Eggs looked fine and ready but only 1 fry so far.
The loss of the Notho fry is most likely due to starvation, Gardneri are easy and you should have no problems except skewed sex ratios, Australe are a little harder than Gar. and again skewed sex ratios are the norm as with most killifish. Many experts put this down to temperature either at spawning/hatching but no-one to my knowledge has nailled it yet so as you get 50% males and 50% females from one hatch.
ricko10
Fish Fanatic
Ok thanks,
Out of interest where do you get your eggs/fish from. I see your north of the border and im way down south and so far all my eggs are coming from spain.
would like somewhere closer to home if you know of any where?
Out of interest where do you get your eggs/fish from. I see your north of the border and im way down south and so far all my eggs are coming from spain.
would like somewhere closer to home if you know of any where?
I get my stock from wherever in the world it takes to obtain a particular species I am interested in.
Also I am a member of the International bodies below.
British Killifish Association (BKA)
American Killifish Association (AKA)
Scandinavian Killi Club (SKS)
To name but a few. membership us highly recommended for the first two at least, the Scandinavian literature is in either Norwegian or Swedish but invaluable for contacts.
Regards
BigC
Also I am a member of the International bodies below.
British Killifish Association (BKA)
American Killifish Association (AKA)
Scandinavian Killi Club (SKS)
To name but a few. membership us highly recommended for the first two at least, the Scandinavian literature is in either Norwegian or Swedish but invaluable for contacts.
Regards
BigC
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