I Need An Idea

[sic0198]

I was at my LFS today. I am considering converting to SW. They told me I could convert over for $300. Is this true?

I already have a tank (29 gal)
I don't need special lighting
I already have a filter
I have a hheater and a thermometer

I need a skimmer
Powerhead
live rock
sand
fish
test stuff
Clownfish

What I want is sand in my tank, a few pieces on LR, and a clownfish.

I don't know what these things cost so I'd appreciate it if someone could tell me.

 

[steelhealr]

average numbers go between $400-600..but..maintenance will push that way up. SH

 

[tropicalwaters]

i spent $300 just on live rock... not counting anything else like chemicals, cleaning supplies, equipment, etc.
you will also need a r/o supply ( range from $80-300+) or buy the water. You really cant put a price tag on this hobby because you will always need that one more thing........

 

[Colin_T]

it depends on how big the tank is. A small 3ft tank could be converted for $300. A 10ft tank will need thousands to convert.

For a fish and live rock tank you need some sand or shell for the bottom. Some rock and some seawater.
Test kits include a Hydrometer for measuring the salinity (salt level), ammonia , nitrite, & PH test kits. Nitrate test kits can be bought after the tank has cycled.
If you have these test kits for freshwater then check the instructions because many ammonia, nitrite & nitrate kits often work on fresh or salt water.

Heater, filter & lights can be the same as you used on your freshwater tank. If you want corals you will need better lights.
A protien skimmer is not essential but it will help keep the water cleaner for longer. They can be added any time.
If you have a decent power filter then you probably don't even need another power head.

If you live near the beach you can collect your own sand and rock from the water.
As for prices it depends on where you live.

 

[cuticom]

The cheapest way would be a Fish Only set up, with a few pieces of LR for decoration, from the sounds of the equipment you've listed that looks like what your after.

If thats the case then you'd need
Skimmer (don't skimp on this)
Filter that turns the tank over 10 x per hour
Sand
Heater
Thermometer
Hydrometer
Test kit (Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
Sand


If you go FO you need to treat it like a FW tank but with more attention to nitrates, they need to be lower then in a FW tank, cycling is also similar with pure ammonia or a dead shrimp.

FOWLR is the same as above but with Liverock, you'd need about 30lbs or more, and a higher turn over rate with power heads, somewhere in the range of 25 x per hour, and you wouldn't use a filter.

Since you already have the tank etc you 'could' do a FO tank under $300 but if you went with FOWLR the live rock alone would be about $150 or more...

 

[BigC]

One of the first things I'd wish I'd done before setting up is, at some point your going to maybe consider having a sump/refugium the easiest way is to have your tank drilled for the pipework before hand makes life much easier for future expansion.
Just something for you to consider.
The price you've been quoted is very conservative, you must realise that this is an ongoing money drain unlike freshwater there is little margin for error so your always trying to balance things and to keep that means money...lots of it.
Regards
BigC

 

[OscarWilde]

The cheapest way would be a Fish Only set up, with a few pieces of LR for decoration

Hi there.

I'm also getting in to Marine for the first time setting with a 10G nano setup. I've been posting a diary here. .

I was under the impression that a Marine system must have Live Rock and that normal filtration methods such as internal or HOB filters can cause all sorts of problems and are not sutible. LR is obviously very expensive and its the the one thing left which I need to buy but can't afford at the moment.

I've already got the following:

- 50W Heater
- API Saltwater Master Test kit
- Electronic Thermometer
- Coral sand.
- Refractometer
- Electronic PH meter
- Salt

Could I simply use a high turnover internal filter? I have lots of those spare already! If so then I could get the cycle going straight away!

Many thanks.

 

[SkiFletch]

Well, with a marine tank, it's important to tailor the hardware choices around what's best for the livestock you like. If you're just doing fish only, this is a fine method. If you're going down the reef route (meaning you want corals and invertebrates), mechanical filters are not the best...

 

[OscarWilde]

Well, with a marine tank, it's important to tailor the hardware choices around what's best for the livestock you like. If you're just doing fish only, this is a fine method. If you're going down the reef route (meaning you want corals and invertebrates), mechanical filters are not the best...

Thanks Ski.

As far as stocking goes I was hoping for this:

2 Hermits,
Pair of clown fish
Anemone
A sutible star fish.

I have a Cascade 400 Filter spare and the hood of the tank has a 400lph built in filter Would this be sutible (30 X turnover)?

Sorry to ask so may questions.

 

[SkiFletch]

Yikes, that's an ambitious tank. The whole "Pair of Clownfish in a 10g Tank" issue has been discussed ad infinitum here and all around the internet. Personally, I believe a 10g to be too small for a clownfish pair. Others will disagree, just my oppinion. These animals get very large in the wild, and caging them up in a tank as small as a 10g isn't the best idea if you ask me.

Then, anemones... Not easy animals to keep at all. They need relatively high-powered lighting, good flow, and most importantly appropriate and stable water chemistry. Stable chemistry is something that is very difficult to achieve in a nano tank run by an experienced saltwater aquarist. It's nearly impossible for someone who'se new to saltwater to keep a 10g chemically stable. Furthermore, anemones can literally walk around the tank, and if they do find themselves walking over an inlet to a powerhead, they will get sucked up into it and chopped to many pieces. All powerhead and filter inlets MUST be covered with foam or a very very large strainer to keep them from killing themselves on powerheads. Having said all that, consider a Hammer or Frogspawn coral instead as they look just like anemones but are eons easier to keep.

Lastly, the starfish... Unfortunately, the only starfish suitible for a tank that small would be dwarf brittlestars. And they aren't exactly what one thinks of as a "prototypical" starfish. Chocolate chip starfish or linkia starfish (which more resemble what's probably coming to your mind) don't belong in a tank below 100 gallons if you ask me.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's better you learn this way than the alternative with suffering livestock.

 

[OscarWilde]

Thanks for getting back to me. I appreciate you telling me now rather than me finding out the hard way. I am going to take all of this on board as I’am not interested in keeping fish in a tank may be too small when I dont have room to upgrade. The clowns are out of the picture.

Maybe if I take this from another angle.

I know 10G is small but I am prepared to be patient and give the tank as much attention and the livestock as much care as required.

I suppose I am asking what do you think are the best starter fish and inverts for my setup? I only have the tanks built in lighting so no coral.

 

[cuticom]

Yah, Fish Only means just fish no other critters. If you want corallimorphs, inverts or corals liverock is a better way to go.... But if you just want fish then it works fine, I keep a fish only with just a valentini puffer which runs on an internal filter and overpowered skimmer, works really well.

 

[Musho3210]

goby and shrimp galore

 

[SkiFletch]

Agreed, many gobies are ideal for a tank this size. Firefish, clown gobies, watchman gobies, neon gobies. Here's a good nano fish list even though you may not be able to purchase from them, would give you a good idea of what's out there.