High Ammonia Readings

[Fred37]

Hi Folks,

I've been recommended to bring this thread over to here from 'Fish Emergencies' to see what the experts think
I have been performing weekly 20-25% water changes on my Dad's tank and Sundays was undertaken on schedule. I always do a water test first.....using a Tetra 6 in 1 strip test (the results of which were all in the green) and a JBL ammonia test.
I was a bit shocked when the ammonia test reading came back with a 5.0 reading!! Whilst we don't usually get a zero reading we do normally come up at about 0.05 and so this was a bit of a surprise.
So my question is two-fold:

1) Any ideas as to what could cause such a dramatic shift in readings when all the other measurements are OK (see below)?
2) We have been using Ammo Lock to try and get the 0.05 reading down to 0 per advice received from users of this site and so is it possible that my JBL test kit (3 part liquid) is reading the total ammonia in the tank and not just the total 'bad' ammonia as I understand that Ammo Lock changes the constitution of the ammonia into a 'harmless' form although of course it is still in the tank?

I've gone ahead and performed two 50% water changes in the last two days and todays readings are as follows: Cl2: 0; PH: 7.2; KH: 6 deg d; GH: 16 deg d; NO2: 1; NO3: 25; Ammonia: 2. ....we're still not quite there but the ammonia reading is dropping.

My Dad has a 64l tank with 16 fish in it (1 algae eater; 1 cherry barb; 2 neon tetras; 2 harlequins; 3 zebras; 3 plattys; 2 mollies and 2 guppies).
Filter pads are rinsed out every week in ex-tank water during water change.
The new water is always treated correctly and Stress Zyme is also added weekly.
He was feeding daily based on the "...enough to be eaten in a couple of minutes" instruction, but I've persuaded him to go to every other day.

Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks,
Fred.

 

[Fred37]

I didn't get any responses to my post, but just in case anyone else is interested - today I've purchased an API Master Test Kit and a Seachem Ammonia multi-test kit as the latter is supposed to determine both ammonia and ammonium.
Regards,
Nige.

 

[pammy172]

How long has the tank been established? What kind of filter have you got? It seems a lot of fish for the tank to my inexperienced eye.

What results have your new tests shown?

 

[fatheadminnow]

Filter pads are rinsed out every week in ex-tank water during water change.

Any advice gratefully received.
Thanks,
Fred.

I would not clean the filter this much!...(maybe once a month minimum...I would go every 2 months) You might be wiping some of the bacteria out every time you do this, which would explain why there is ammonia present in the tank because you do not have enough beneficial bacteria in the filter to break down the ammonia. And near the end of the week, when the ammonia readings go down like you stated, the bacteria are starting to increase in numbers, but when you clean the filter you wipe some out again.

Also, are you using a gravel vac when doing water changes? Some uneaten food will get stuck in the gravel. Food that is left un-touched in a tank will start to break down and produce ammonia. The gravel vac will clean the substrate and get any un-eaten food out of the tank that has been stuck in the gravel.

I would stop using the ammo-lock as well. You need ammonia, because that is what your beneficial bacteria need to live. And the number of bacteria in your filter should be relative to the amount of fish you have in your tank. But if you try to take away ammonia in your tank, then you are not going to have the correct number of bacteria in your filter to process the ammonia produced by your fish.

And if anything goes wrong with the ammo-lock, you will then have a spike in ammonia because you do not have enough bacteria in the filter to process it.

By the way, you made a good move getting an API test kit, as the strip tests are no good and inaccurate.

-FHM

 

[Fred37]

Thanks, I'll cut out the weekly filter rinse (it's a Fluval 2). The water change is carried out using a gravel vac. Hopefully if we can get things back under control we can consign Ammo Lock to the bin.
Regards,
Fred.

P.S. I ordered my test kits yesterday and they were delivered today...great service from Charterhouse Aquatics.

 

[backtotropical]

I would stop using the ammo-lock as well. You need ammonia, because that is what your beneficial bacteria need to live. And the number of bacteria in your filter should be relative to the amount of fish you have in your tank. But if you try to take away ammonia in your tank, then you are not going to have the correct number of bacteria in your filter to process the ammonia produced by your fish.

And if anything goes wrong with the ammo-lock, you will then have a spike in ammonia because you do not have enough bacteria in the filter to process it.

Ammo Lock is actually a very good product (assuming it is API AMmo Lock?). It converts the ammonia into ammonium which is much less dangerous. The filter bacteria can use ammonium as well as ammonia, so the product doesn't affect the cycle at all. All it does is makes the ammonia less toxic. It does not 'remove' the ammonia so it is not available to the filter bacteria.

I would advise to continue using it until the ammonia is under control (ie. at 0 all the time).

If you are using the other product called Ammo Lock, which comes in the form of ammonia adsorbing chips rather than a liquid, then you should stop using it, and start bigger water changes.

Perhaps you could confirm which it is, Fred?

Cheers

BTT

 

[Fred37]

I can confirm that it's API Ammo Lock (the fluid).
Regards,
Fred.

 

[bronzecat]

Hi

If my memory serves me right, Using Ammo lock neutralises the ammonia, but a test for ammonia will still be showing its present.

I'm sure i read that on this forum somewhere

So basically, if this is correct, you wont get a zero reading whilst using ammo lock.