High Ammonia Levels, Please Help Me

[Jpat82]

Okay, I'm a dumb dumb. I have a tank that has been up and running for a month, I did not do a fish less cylce. It has had fish in it, and when they had babies I moved the adults to different tank. I recently was able to buy a ammonia only test kit. The other test kit I have is the cheap paper tester. My ammonia levels were a 3pmm yesterday in the fry tank so I changed about 30% of the water (10gallon tank). I tested again today and the ammonia levels are the same. How much of a water change do I need to do to bring the levels down?
I would just move the fry but my other tank is about the same ammonia wise, and I really don't like my fry net as it likes to fall off the side of the tank.
My parents bought ammonia clear, and are talking about using quarter the amount it says to bring down the ammonia levels. I don't think this is a good idea because of killing the bacteria in filter, thus killing my fry.
I know this is what I get for not doing a fish-less cycle, but any help would be great.

 

[toshapetriji]

If you have 3ppm and change half the water you will have 1.5ppm. You need to do 2 or 3 changes of 80% to get the level down and then keep measuring the levels changing water as necessary to keep the ammonia level at zero.

 

[greenmumma141]

+1 agreed. Big, big water changes maybe twice/three times a day, especially if you want to save the fry GL!

 

[paradiddle]

yep do 60%, refill, do 60%, refill, test, repeat if needed

 

[fluttermoth]

If the ammonia is that high, I don't really see the point in doing a 60% change, even if followed by another one.

It's better (if you think about the maths it'll be obvious why!) to just get on and do a 90/95% one.

 

[CezzaXV]

Have a read up on fish-in cycling, as thats what you're doing right now.

It really is just simple maths. If you change half the water, you remove half the ammonia. You need to do large and frequent enough changes to keep ammonia at a maximum of 0.25ppm at all times. This might mean you have to do two or three water changes in a row.

I wouldn't bother with any products which claim to lower ammonia. The best way of dealing with ammonia is removing it, not throwing chemicals at it.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

If the ammonia is that high, I don't really see the point in doing a 60% change, even if followed by another one.

It's better (if you think about the maths it'll be obvious why!) to just get on and do a 90/95% one.

For those less interested in doing the math for themselves:


3ppm 60% water change - 40% of ammonia remains -> 1.2ppm (plus traces from your tap water if using chloramines)

1.2ppm 60% water change - 40% of ammonia remains -> 0.48ppm (plus traces from your tap water if using chloramines)

0.5ppm 60% water change - 40% of ammonia remains -> 0.2ppm (plus traces from your tap water if using chloramines)



3ppm 95% water change (just enough water to allow fish to swim freely) -> 5% ammonia remains -> 0.15ppm (plus traces from your tap water if using chloramines)


I'd suggest investing in PRIME to help you through this process. Its a very concentrated dechlorinator and can help with the ammonia/nitrite to keep it in the less toxic form while cycling with fish. It won't alleviate the need for the water changes, but it will make the times in between the water changes more safe for the fish.