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So that's actually 12 imperial (UK) gallons or closer to 15 US Gallons. All measurements quoted on this site such as WPG and inches per gallon refer to US gallons not imperial (UK) Gallons. Sorry if that was a bit of a sly-boot question btw...

Took me a while to realise that. Roll on the metric system!

So, you now actually have these options, currently 36W + 15W = 3.4WPG, or 36W = 2.4WPG and 1WPG.

Awkward isn't it if the intended target is from 1.5WPG to 2.0WPG tops (btw nry I agree with 100%).

This WPG general rule is really for large tanks. This is not. the WPG (for the same balance if you like) goes UP for SMALLER tanks. I wonder if nry would agree with me that for this 15G tank, the 36W light will effectively be closer to slightly under 2WPG. I think that will be OK for this, I think using that bulb may in fact be just right.

What kind of light is the 36W one?

Andy
 
Thanks for replys! The 36 watt is the interpet daylight plus T5. The only problem is that with the 36 watt bulb most of the light will be in the front of the tank and the back wont get so much light. ( don't know if this is a serious problem. Also its not really possible for me to move it back. What fert do you reccomend with this much lighting.
 
I don't see a problem with the light being where it is. Does it have a reflector (shiny polished aluminium) fitted? Good trick to reduce WPG is to remove the reflector (WPG is always quoted for lights WITH good reflectors, but the buld itself makes a difference because T5's are skinnier than T8's and are therefore brighter when considering reflectors).

Spot on perfect choice of light BTW, the Interpet Daylight Plus T5's are great for planted tanks.

For ferts then:
You have CO2, so knock this back to about 10 - 15ppm (adjust the amount of suger etc - experiment).
So use something like:
Nutrafin Plant Gro NPK and SeaChem Flourish (for trace),
or 'Tropica Master Grow+' now called 'AquaCare Plant Nutrition+ Liquid' or is it called 'Tropica Plant Nutrition+', can never remember

or even better and far cheaper, by a dry powder source for the NPK and drop it into the tank dry and use this with SeaChem Flourish (for trace).

You'll only need to dose once per week and 20% water change once a month. The dosing is to mainly back up the substrate which is the backbone if you like of this method. Don't gravel vac - any fish poop will work its way into the substrate and replenish it (just like in the wild).

Andy
 
Thanks. I will definetly use this method. When should I start dosing and what should I set the timer to for the lights?
 
When should I start dosing...
ASAP if I were you.

...and what should I set the timer to for the lights?
I would use a 10 hour photoperiod for the 36W T5's

or...

If you wanted to be really 'cool' you could try something like this.
1) use the 15W bulb, with a reflector and leave it on for 10 hours
2) use the 36W bulb without a reflector for a period of 5 to 6 hours in the middle of the 15W 10hr photoperiod.
(The combination would IME, still give an equivalent spread of just under 2WPG for 10hrs).

This gives the effect of dawn, midday, dusk - again, much akin to that in nature. You'd need two timers of course.

Andy
 
The problem with the second option you said is that I can't put the 15 watt on a timer because the tank is one of those all in one things so if i put the lights on a timer the heater and filter will go off with the light!
Where can I get hold of seachem flourish, is it expensive? Do you think the tetra plant fert might be better or another make altogether.

Thanks Jakester :thanks:


One other thing the problem I mentioned at the start the algae and the dieing leaves, what should I do about this Imedietly e.g prunning e.t.c. Sorry Im still learning.
 
My only issue with PC T5's in this size of tank (after having one in my 15-UK gallon which is not much different in size) is the massive intensity just below the bulb. Algae loved the area just below the light tube but the rest of the tank was OK - hence my swap to 2x15w T8 tubes which give a better light spread over the surface area than a single PC T5.
 
The problem with the second option you said is that I can't put the 15 watt on a timer because the tank is one of those all in one things so if i put the lights on a timer the heater and filter will go off with the light!
Can you not rewire the poxy thing.... Anyway, nothing wrong with either method really, just option 2 is... sexier?

Where can I get hold of seachem flourish, is it expensive?
Search on-line. AE for example. £8 for 1/4 litre... Dose about 2ml / week, so 1 bottle should last.... quite a while: 2 years!

SeaChem Flourish is a good make & I rate it the just as highly as Tropica Master Grow (but I see the 'pro's go for this, even though SecChem has a wider range of 'stuff' in it). I personallyuse the SeaChem stuff. I do not know what is in the Tetra Plant Fert, so I will have to have a look at that myself.

One other thing the problem I mentioned at the start the algae and the dieing leaves, what should I do about this Imedietly e.g prunning e.t.c.
Regardless, always prune dead / dying leaves. Rotting vegitation produceses ammonia - good for plants actually, but bad for fish so best avoided!

Sorry Im still learning
Aren't we all?

Regrds,

Andy
 
Thanks so much for your help guys! :thanks: :good: . I look foward to showing you my tank journal soon!
 
p.s I am about to order the ferts online, do I need both the seachem and the nutrafin plant grow? Or is one of them enough?
 
One is enough, they will both be very similar.
 
I'd have said both really.

Nutrafin Plant Gro NPK for..... erm...NPK (believe it or not) and SeaChem Flourish for everything else (read 'Trace' & Secondary Nutrients).

Unless you plan on dry dosing NPK of course?

Andy
 
I'd have said both really.

Nutrafin Plant Gro NPK for..... erm...NPK (believe it or not) and SeaChem Flourish for everything else (read 'Trace' & Secondary Nutrients).

Unless you plan on dry dosing NPK of course?

Andy

Ahh, I was assuming dry ferts were going to be used....my bad :)
 

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