Help With White Spot And Platys

[amanda8beechwood]

Mansfield, Nottinghamshire, I've bought some flubenol will that work x

 

[WILDER]

Yes.

 

[amanda8beechwood]

Mmmm I've just noticed that the white platy has a normal brown poo and the red dot isn't where the poo has come from its about 1mm away, is that where the anus is lol x

 

[WILDER]

Red dot pin pricks can be septicemia.


Red spots on skin can be caused by:
Regarding the small red dot, small pinprick like haemorrhages (called petechiae) can be due to a local lesion, a generalised septicaemia or toxaemia caused by acute viral and bacterial infections.


Goldfish can't miss the anus but on smaller fish I can't make it out either.
Go in with a bacterial med as parsites can cause bacterial infections.

 

[amanda8beechwood]

Lovely thanks so much for your advice its been invaluable. We've done another test today on everything and everything, Nitrate, nitrite, ph is brill no more nitrite is so refreshing for us. The ammonia is a tiny bit high, any ideas on getting that down a bit x

 

[WILDER]

The only way to get ammonia down is water changes i'm afraid.
Good luck.

 

[amanda8beechwood]

Think we thought the ammonia was higher than it was, its got a chart in the interpet test kit that we have and it says if your ph is 8.5 which is it and your temperature is 25, ours is 26 then the maximum ammonia is 0.1 per litre which ours is but then it says to try and get it lower so I don't think its that bad. But now the flubenol has come and it says it also kills snails which I didn't know, I don't think we have a lot but how many snails raise ammonia levels if they die tut, there's always something isn't it lol. xx

 

[WILDER]

When snails are decomposing they become toxic to fish so you must remove them from the tank.

 

[amanda8beechwood]

We've taken out as many as we could see but we really don't know how many were in the gravel so we are just going to keep doing water changes and testing the ammonia. The white platy has perked up a lot but not loads tut x

 

[amanda8beechwood]

Well the ammonia is fine, I panicked over nothing but the white platy seems a lot worse. It doesn't seem to be able to swim properly at all. After swimming for a while it just seems to lay at the bottom of the tank and wriggle a lot. When it does swim its like it can't hold its tail up, its not using its tail at all to swim just its side fins bless it. I'm still hoping its going to get better but I just don't know what's up with it x

 

[amanda8beechwood]

The white platy seemed loads worse today and on the underneath of its belly it had what looked like a red line running all the way down its belly, it was gasping more than yesterday. We fed it and although it picked up to be fed it was just wriggling about in the hospital tank. We put it in the main tank and the orange platy just kept on pecking it again. I couldn't bear it any longer that it was in pain so we euthanised it with crushed ice and water and it died in about 5 seconds so I think from reading this forum that was pretty quick so I think it must have been really poorly. What could have been wrong with it, what was the red line going down all its belly that started off as a dot. I'm devastated. I really can't bear this losing fish business, god knows how I'm going to be when we lose a dog. I can't get it out my head now that we killed it

 

[Ilya]

After reading your story and your epic struggle to save your fish, I have decided to help you.

I found some things online:

Symptom / What it is / How to treat it

1. Reddening on or under skin, sudden abnormal behavior. / Inflammation / OTC antibiotic treatment
2. Sluggishness, lack of appetite, open sores with red edges, possible fin rot. / Ulcers / OTC medication for bacterial infections.

Get some over the counter antibiotic and anti bacterial infection medicines. Also give your aquarium the salt treatment.

Salt Treatments:

 

Understand that while salt is frequently used as a treatment/preventative for sick fish, it is no guarantee.  It can even be dangerous to some fish (for example, cory catfish).  There is nothing more important than maintaining a proper environment (temperature, water quality, aeration).  Basically, salt will strip or re-stimulate (depending upon the concentration) the slime coat produced by the fish, increasing antibodies and making bacteria, fungus, and parasites more vulnerable to medications such as antibiotics or fungicides.

 

The following salts can be used in a salt treatment for your fish:  Aquarium, solar (without anti-caking additives), meat curing, sea, kosher, rock, pickling, and ice cream salts, or regular non-iodized table salt.  The additives mentioned above may include a type known as sodium ferrocyanide or yellow prussiate of soda.  This is deadly to fish.  The "cyanide" part should clue you in to that.

 

For a constant preventative treatment, use a low concentration of about .3%.  This is equal to about 2.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon of water.  If you have live plants in your aquarium, you may want to consider about half that amount.

 

For a concentrated "dip" to be used in treatment of external parasites, the concentration should be 1%, or 7.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon.  You must be very careful when using these dips.  All fish will react differently to salt treatments, and especially smaller fish must be monitored very closely.  Generally this will be done in a hospital/quarantine tank, as water changes are the only way to remove salt from your main tank.  The hospital/quarantine tank should be at least one gallon, with no rocks and only two or three plastic plants for security.  The temperature should be kept between 75-80 degrees with good aeration.  Dissolve your salt completely before adding your fish.  Once you have put your fish into the water, watch it closely for signs of distress, such as rolling over.  This may be as quickly as a few seconds with smaller or baby fish.  Remove the fish at the first sign!  Do not leave your fish in this solution longer than 30 minutes.  Then place it in a container of aged water, preferably not taken from the main (still infected) tank.  Give the tank a thorough cleaning while your fish recuperates.

Source: http/www.klsnet.com/files/fishchart.htm

 

[amanda8beechwood]

Thanks so much x