help ich is frustrating!!!

[AK bottom feeders]

I have a 20 gal isolation tank and a 30 gal main tank. Both tanks have have plants and wellaby wood. The 20 has a marineland eclipse 2 system on it and a ugf with powerheads. the 30 has a magnum 350 pro on it and ugf with powerheads. Both systems also have bio-wheels. I've been trying quick cure with no luck and super ich cure with no luck. I've pulled the carbon media out of both and still no luck. My question is do I get rid of the plants?, do i clean or get rid of the bio-wheels? do both of these re-contaminate the water? Does anyone have bullet proof medicine to try? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks
Brad in Alaska

 

[aquatrippe]

Hey Brad,

Don't worry, ich is easy to cure if you follow a few simple steps.

First off, to answer your question, no do not remove your plants or carbon they are not a part of the problem.

Most definitely do NOT touch or clean the bio wheel as this may disturb too much of the beneficial bacteria that have built up in that great little contraption.

The parasite that is "ich" cannot reproduce and survive in higher temps. 85 degrees F. or higher.

Once the little white cyst falls off the fish, if the temp is 85 or higher it will not survive its freeswimming stage and the parasite will not spread.

Here is what I do with ich... raise the temperature of your aquarium SLOWLY [2 degrees every hour] to 85 to 88 degrees F. Most freshwater tropicals do just fine in the 85 to 88 F. range.

I would stop using the product you are using especially if it contains meth. blue because you are stressing the bacterial load in the aquarium.

I would dose the tank with Aquarisol which is a copper based aquarium tonic that will wipe out the ich parasite in a matter of days in conjunction with the higher temp.

I would also use aquarium salt for freshwater aquariums NOT table or marine salt ..dose according to the package..

The only reason not to use salt is if you have Cory cats or other "salt sensitive" fish. IF you do have such fish..skip the salt.

Finally, I would say that the way to avoid ich in the future is keeping up with your regular weekly 20 percent water changes and not allowing your temperature to drop suddenly or fluctuate downwards..

Good luck and save your plants!

 

[cichlidmaster]

Hi Brad,

First why not register and get all the benefits of the forum. We have many sections I think you would find interesting.

Next,

Removing the carbon was the right thing to do. If you did not, the carbon would have removed the medication!!

Maracide by Mardel is a very effective ich medication. You will need to do a partial water change say 30% and run carbon in your filters for a few hours before using it. You must remove the previous med before using the new one.

Different manufactures medications most times are not made to be used together and this is the reason for the above proceedure.

Once you have done the water change and ran carbon for a few hours, simply turn the heat up to around 82 degrees and use the Maracide according to the directions. The reason the heat is raised is because the parasite reproduces faster at a higher temp. The trick is to get the parasite to leave the host fish as quickly as possible and thus enabeling it to be killed.

Depending on how bad the outbreak is, the parasite should be eradicated within the 5 day treatment period.

You must continue the full treatment program!! DO NOT stop short of the 5 days even if the spots are gone from the fish. The parasite may still be present in the tank!!

CM