Heating up New Water

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Sgooosh

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Hello, about a week ago i accidentally cold shocked my tank and lost a fish because the water change water was way too cold.
How do i make it so that the new water is more similar to the old tank water? the only thing i can think of is letting it sit for a while since there is heating in the house
 

Archerfish

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Hello, about a week ago i accidentally cold shocked my tank and lost a fish because the water change water was way too cold.
How do i make it so that the new water is more similar to the old tank water? the only thing i can think of is letting it sit for a while since there is heating in the house
What size is your tank and where is it located? Do you have room for a 'seasoning' tank/container near your tank?
 

Boundava

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Where are you getting your water from when you do water changes? I just adjust the tap water accordingly so that the water is as close to the tank temperature as possible.

I always add Safe to my tanks as I refill them.
 

wasmewasntit

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Granted I do not use tapwater, I use bottled water for my aquariums due to absolutely abysmal tapwater quality.

That said, I put enough packs of water into the lounge (where both aquariums are) the day before water change day. I do not use any heating in my flat and the lounge never goes below 18 degrees even in the harshest of cold nights.

When doing water changes...in summer when normally the aquarium heater is off, I turn it on for the duration of the water change and for about an hour afterwards...in winter the heater is left on 24/7 anyway.

Since I use bottles of water I can limit the flow of the water coming out. So I dribble the water from the bottles, moving the bottle in a figure 8 around the aquarium so that the new water isn't concentrated into one area thus causing a potential colder spot.

The figure 8 method and slow pour would work just as effectively with tap water whether the aquarium heater is on or off, ideally it should be left on so that it assista in balancing any temperature differences that might exist.

Slow pour, figure 8...not had a single bad effect such as chill shocked fish in decades doing it that way.
 

GaryE

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I have good tapwater. I mix it at the tap and pour in via a hose, with dechlorinator put in right before I pour. I use an infra-red temperature "gun" aimed directly at the hose to be sure the water going in is the right temp.

If I were to stand water for one tank, I would still have the problem of winter house temperature versus tropical aquarium temp.
 

Boundava

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Granted I do not use tapwater, I use bottled water for my aquariums due to absolutely abysmal tapwater quality.

That said, I put enough packs of water into the lounge (where both aquariums are) the day before water change day. I do not use any heating in my flat and the lounge never goes below 18 degrees even in the harshest of cold nights.

When doing water changes...in summer when normally the aquarium heater is off, I turn it on for the duration of the water change and for about an hour afterwards...in winter the heater is left on 24/7 anyway.

Since I use bottles of water I can limit the flow of the water coming out. So I dribble the water from the bottles, moving the bottle in a figure 8 around the aquarium so that the new water isn't concentrated into one area thus causing a potential colder spot.

The figure 8 method and slow pour would work just as effectively with tap water whether the aquarium heater is on or off, ideally it should be left on so that it assista in balancing any temperature differences that might exist.

Slow pour, figure 8...not had a single bad effect such as chill shocked fish in decades doing it that way.
RODI systems are inexpensive and easy to set up vs buying bottled water in that quantity. Not sure how many/big your tanks are but you can set up a Brute with a pump and heater and have water sitting ready when you need it.
 

wasmewasntit

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RODI systems are inexpensive and easy to set up vs buying bottled water in that quantity. Not sure how many/big your tanks are but you can set up a Brute with a pump and heater and have water sitting ready when you need it.
Not possible or feasible. The landlord (I live in local authority housing) will not allow any additions to utilities....and my kitchen is literally cupboard sized (6ft x 5ft) and no space for any contraptions.

Buying bottled water in bulk is easy, inexpensive and the local authority provides recycling for the empties (I have a shed larger than the kitchen that stores the water ready for use).

I have used bottled water for many years, it is far less faffing about than people think and means I have no need for any added chemicals in the aquariums.....the fish swim in completely untainted and untreated fresh water (any bugs or lugies get dealt with at source where the water is bombarded with UV prior to bottling....and I have a UV on standby in the aquariums too just incase)
 

Archerfish

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I use a rain barrel to season my water. A day prior to water exchanges, I add a heater if the water temp needs a minor adjustment.
 

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Slaphppy7

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Like Gary, I have "good" tapwater, as well...simply run the tap, adjust the temp until it matches the tank, and fill

I use an inexpensive, easy-to-calibrate pocket thermometer to measure the tap temp before carrying the Python to the tank

Sorry for the loss, but it reiterates how important it is to match fresh water temp to tank temps when doing WC's, as closely as possible
 

Slaphppy7

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For the record, water changing for me is about 200 gallons, and even without a bad back that would be a few 5 gallon buckets and heaters....
Wow....weekly?
 

GaryE

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About 100 a week, with the other 100 every 10 days. I have it down to an art - 2 hours total for the lot.
 

Slaphppy7

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About 100 a week, with the other 100 every 10 days. I have it down to an art - 2 hours total for the lot.
Gadzooks....not sure I could afford the water bill
 

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