beatking
New Member
Cannot find an exact glass hood for my 29 gal tank. Is making a plexiglass hood an option? Has anyone here ever done this? Is this a thing? Thank you
Steve
Steve
Glass/ Plexiglass hood?
- Thread starter beatking
- Start date
beatking
New Member
The measurements are listed at 12”w X 30” long. All the glass hoods I’ve found measure at 11 and 3/8” by 29 and 2/8. My exact dimensions are 11 “ and 3/8 by 28 and 6/8 “
Nobody seems to have the length. Even top fin who makes the tank sells a glass hood that doesn’t fit. Frustrating
Steve
Nobody seems to have the length. Even top fin who makes the tank sells a glass hood that doesn’t fit. Frustrating
Steve
It will fit
beatking
New Member
How can you be sure. I’ve seen reviews that say the 29 gallon tank glass hood by Aqueon doesn’t fit
No, the one by top fin. Get the one for your tank. It will fit
Plexiglass will warp with the heat of your tank. The only option is glass.
I don't have personal experience of it, but every tank I ever had/have with a top is one that has a black plastic type hood or with glass. If perspex or other acrylic type hoods worked then I'm sure they would be offered as part of a tank purchase. I have a lift on glass hood on one tank with metal holders to allow it to be positioned with around a 3mm gap all around for wiring etc, and I have had one on a long tank that was made from 2 sliding glass panels. Unfortunately I broke the base of that tank.
I prefer open tops but there are downsides to that too.
I prefer open tops but there are downsides to that too.
connorlindeman26 26
Plantman
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I have acrylic sheeting on my tanks. Sure, it does warp but it works.
The experience with plexiglass is that it tends to bend. For sure with bigger pieces. I've got a number of tanks that do have a glass cover. But my best friend works at a glass company. And he made them for me. Between the glass pane and the top of the tank, I've used silicon u-profile. So, the glass pane will rest on that and it creates an opening as well. So, gas can be released. But of course, you can also use other stuff to create this opening.
If you use a thick (4-6mm) piece of Perspex and add some ribs to it, you can stop it sagging over time.
If you contact a glass company, they can cut glass to fit.
If you get coverglass made from glass, use 4, 5 or 6mm thick glass because it is less likely to chip or crack compared to thinner glass (2 or 3mm).
If you contact a glass company, they can cut glass to fit.
If you get coverglass made from glass, use 4, 5 or 6mm thick glass because it is less likely to chip or crack compared to thinner glass (2 or 3mm).
It is my understanding it is the humidity that warps the acrylic. not the heat. Acrylic abslorbs some water and swells when it does. The acrylic can handle temperatures a lot higher than is typical for aquariums.
FranciscoB
Fishaholic
I ran onto the same situation several times before, because all my tanks have been bought used or put together from parts.
What I have done is either of two things:
1) Purchase a glass lid (versa-top) that is just a tad shorter, but of the correct width. The width is not critical, because the back of it is always less wide than the tank, and is supplied with it the flexible clear plastic they are sold with, that one cuts notches on to fit HOB filters, etc. Then, I cut two strips of glass that fit at either end of the "inside well" of the top of the tank's frame, from front to back, and silicone them in place. They don't need to be wider than ~1 inch or so, but can be wider (not critical)[If cutting glass is not easy for you, the same can be made with strips of plexiglass, which will not warp because they will rest onto the frame edge on three sides]. Regardless, make sure to sand the sharp edges, for which regular sand paper works well!
Afterwards you can place your glass versa-top, which will rest on the sides onto the strips of glass/plexiglass.
2) Alternatively, cut a single strip of glass (not plexiglass because it will bow), and glue it (or simply put in in) in the middle of the tank's top, resting inside the "inside well". In this case, it would be best it is made ~2-3 inches wide. Afterwards, you can use any glass versa-top that you can get, either a little longer or a little shorter than the tank. No difference. It will rest on the sides of the tank, and onto the strip of glass in the middle.
Either solution works well. It may not be the most elegant (although it is mostly unnoticeable), but it is fully functional.
Good luck!
What I have done is either of two things:
1) Purchase a glass lid (versa-top) that is just a tad shorter, but of the correct width. The width is not critical, because the back of it is always less wide than the tank, and is supplied with it the flexible clear plastic they are sold with, that one cuts notches on to fit HOB filters, etc. Then, I cut two strips of glass that fit at either end of the "inside well" of the top of the tank's frame, from front to back, and silicone them in place. They don't need to be wider than ~1 inch or so, but can be wider (not critical)[If cutting glass is not easy for you, the same can be made with strips of plexiglass, which will not warp because they will rest onto the frame edge on three sides]. Regardless, make sure to sand the sharp edges, for which regular sand paper works well!
Afterwards you can place your glass versa-top, which will rest on the sides onto the strips of glass/plexiglass.
2) Alternatively, cut a single strip of glass (not plexiglass because it will bow), and glue it (or simply put in in) in the middle of the tank's top, resting inside the "inside well". In this case, it would be best it is made ~2-3 inches wide. Afterwards, you can use any glass versa-top that you can get, either a little longer or a little shorter than the tank. No difference. It will rest on the sides of the tank, and onto the strip of glass in the middle.
Either solution works well. It may not be the most elegant (although it is mostly unnoticeable), but it is fully functional.
Good luck!
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