German Blue Ram Compatibility

I don't believe the article you have linked us to explains why our pH would crash during a fish-less cycle. I still believe it has something to do with excessive 160+ Nitrate build ups in water without Bicarbonate of Soda.

Maybe it doesn't explain why your's crashed, but it proves nitrates don't cause acidification. They simply cant. The nitric and other organic acid production in the water column is enough to affect the tank pH measurement. You're seeing a large nitrate reading because the nitrifying bacteria have produced it. In doing so, they bacteria have also produced these acids.
Apologies to the OP for this big tangent/hijack :/
 
So we're saying Nitrate is completely neutral?
 
So we're saying Nitrate is completely neutral?

Currently finding that one out. There's not a lot of info :X From what I've read so far, it's neutral or atleast very close.

Yes, AFAIK it's either acidic or neutral not a base. I'm slightly one sided on it being acidic. However you can't believe everything you read on the internet, specifically Wikipedia lol.
 
Hi PDSimon,

In one of your replies above, you stated that WD said that nitrates are present in the substrate. The gravel cleaner I ordered as seen here removes trapped dirt and presumably nitrates along with it.

I know I shouldn't be worrying about the nitrate level given that I don't have any fish yet but I was wanting to try the gravel cleaner out and also do a 90% water change to see what effect it has on all the water stats. I know ammonia and nitrite would go to zero and my PH will drop to 7.4 once I re-fill the tank with dechlorinated water, BUT I don't know what nitrate level I will achieve and what effect disturbing the substrate will have on the beneficial bacteria. Due to being in the unknown I was going to do an early water change and clean the gravel and make a log of the water chemistry stats after wards so I have a good idea of what to do should I have a build up of nitrates (or other toxin) when the tank is stocked. I do plan to stock the aquarium on friday so I guess I'm getting a bit anxious about doing everything perfectly.

I was referring to them 'sticking' to above it, so they're still in the water, but if you have say 100ppm of nitrate in the tank, and do a 50% water change, depending on where you syphon from may affect how much nitrate you move, so syphoning the substrate surface helps remove more nitrate.
 
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Hi PDSimon,

In one of your replies above, you stated that WD said that nitrates are present in the substrate. The gravel cleaner I ordered as seen here removes trapped dirt and presumably nitrates along with it.

I know I shouldn't be worrying about the nitrate level given that I don't have any fish yet but I was wanting to try the gravel cleaner out and also do a 90% water change to see what effect it has on all the water stats. I know ammonia and nitrite would go to zero and my PH will drop to 7.4 once I re-fill the tank with dechlorinated water, BUT I don't know what nitrate level I will achieve and what effect disturbing the substrate will have on the beneficial bacteria. Due to being in the unknown I was going to do an early water change and clean the gravel and make a log of the water chemistry stats after wards so I have a good idea of what to do should I have a build up of nitrates (or other toxin) when the tank is stocked. I do plan to stock the aquarium on friday so I guess I'm getting a bit anxious about doing everything perfectly.

Fish waste is what causes the nitrates to be in the gravel, you don't have any fish, so a gravel vac isn't needed. If you do a 90% water change, you can take it from the top of the tank, and as long as the water is de-chlorinated, there won't be any damage to your bacteria.

Doing the 90% water change will give you a nitrate level similar to that of your tap water. My tap has 10-20ppm (it's impossible to tell the difference between those colours on the chart).

The best way would be to get some Bolivian rams along with whatever stock you plan on getting on Friday as these are more tolerant, have a temperature of 26-27C and monitor how the nitrates build up over a month or so with your regular water changes.

Then you could ask a lfs about there water stats and if they have the GBRs in similar Ph and hardness to your water then they would be a good choice. 7.4 and 9dKH isn't perfect, but it's good enough.

If you think your nitrate level is too high, you can buy filter sponges that remove nitrates to add to your filter, think about planting your tank if you wanted, or do more water changes.

Using your tap water will be much better as the Ph will be close to that of the tank, and you won't have to worry about it swinging when you do water changes.

Hi, thanks for the comprehensive response.

I have tried to find some filter media that will absorb nitrates. No matter where I look, in the small print it will say such media also removes ammonia and nitrite. It would be a great help if there was some media available that soley removes nitrates but as of yet I haven't come across such a thing.

I noticed you mentioned that the GH is not perfect for German Blue Rams. Do you have any tips for lowering it? I live in a hard water area (Derbyshire, England) with a tap water GH of around 9dH and a PH of about 7.4.

I've only come across products that higher the GH. Presumably I'll need a product that will lower it but a lot of people here advise against using aquarium products to change water chemistry.

Mark.
 
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Hi, thanks for the comprehensive response.

I have tried to find some filter media that will absorb nitrates. No matter where I look, in the small print it will say such media also removes ammonia and nitrite. It would be a great help if there was some media available that soley removes nitrates but as of yet I haven't come across such a thing.

I noticed you mentioned that the GH is not perfect for German Blue Rams. Do you have any tips for lowering it? I live in a hard water area (Derbyshire, England) with a tap water GH of around 9dH and a PH of about 7.4.

I've only come across products that higher the GH. Presumably I'll need a product that will lower it but a lot of people here advise against using aquarium products to change water chemistry.

Mark.

It's not perfect, but it isn't at a level where it will be a problem. As long as you buy the fish from a shop with similar water stats to that of your own, you'll be fine.

I wouldn't advise lowering it, because that would mean that when you do water changes, you'll have to get the new water to the same stats as the tank or else risk swinging the Ph and hardness in the tank.

My water stats are similar to yours (with a higher Ph) but my lfs has had rams in with the same water for several months and they're still looking good. I plan on buying a couple this week :rolleyes:

EDIT:

As for the filter media, I would have thought that if you add it when you have fish in, the bacteria would survive as long as there is a decent stock level.

What is the tap water stats for your nitrates?
 

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