Gardneri Eggs Storage

[muay]

Hi, Im quite new to killi fish but im getting very interested. I have a pair of Gardneri's for almost 2 weeks and i have been collecting 2-3 eggs per day and storing them in peat, Today i looked at a couple of the eggs and they looked to have kind almost dryed up even though the peat is moist but not wet. Ive also collected about 10-12 eggs today which is the most ive collected. Am i doing everything right as regards to storing the eggs ?

Also i have 2 Notho Guentiheri fry that are about 2 weeks old, ive been topping the water up in their small trys everyday and they look to have grown a little. When should i move them to a bigger tray ? Is there anything else i should do ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[BigC]

There are two threads of mine you should read
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=280786
Gives you an overview of the GAR sp and spp. husbandry including breeding and rearing. Storage over peat is not really necessary and water incubation will be fine. We use peat storage for non annuals to slightly prolong the hatching date and to prevent the spread of fungus.
This second thread is related to your GUE, which are annuals.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/341640-nothobranchius-rachovii-beira-98/
RAC is a lot more delicate species but all the basis of fry rearing are exactly the same.
I hope that helps
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Many thanks for the info Big C. Before knowing ive been storing the eggs in peat should i take them out and put them in water,would i need to add methylene blue ? Also what at what age would you recommend transfering them to a bigger tray ? many thanks in advance

 

[BigC]

The non annual eggs will still develop over peat providing the peat doesn't dry out and dessicate the eggs also it should be kept warm. 72-74'f...They will take a little longer for the fry to emerge but it will deter fungus from spreading from non-fertilised eggs to viable ones.
The notho fry can be moved to a larger tub but not much, I use marg tubs of varying sizes. Most importantly are the water changes, when the fry are small I use syringes and pipettes to clear all uneaten food and replenish water. I do this every day and exchange around 1/3 with the same water make up. Dont forget to add a few grains of salt to deter velvet.
No need for Methylene Blue.
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Thanks again Big C. Great site by the way . Just for future do you sell killi eggs or know where to get them ?

 

[BigC]

Only too glad to be of some help. Providing the novice with first-hand information is what keeps this niche side of the hobby alive.
Yes! I do sell eggs and fish in the warmer months and have a myriad of global recognised contacts to source from.
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Thanks again. Whats species of killi would you recommend apart from the ones i already have ? Also roughly how much are the eggs ?

One last question is hows the best way to feed killi fry for maximum growth ? Im currently feeding BBS twice a day.

Sorry for all the questions

 

[BigC]

The most common mistake made by the novice killi keeper is to have loads of different varieties (some will interbreed), this IMHO is not how a newcommer should be looking at things. Keep the killifish species you have, take the time to learn all about them, essentially what makes them tick as regards to water conditions, feeding and breeding. Catalogue all your findings (you may need to replicate things at a later date). This will give you a better grounding in the subject if you are serious about keeping Killifish. Killifish fry need waterchanges but with the same chemical makeup and temps. They, not all will do fine on BBS and microworm as starter food. Smaller species will need Paramoecium or other microscopic cillates as a first food. Most of all keep your fry tubs clean.
Dont worry about the questions, I'm here to help if I can.
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Thanks again. I will follow your advice and stick with the 2 species i have at present.

Just a quick question. Ive been collecting a few eggs from the gardneri but ive just cheacked them and all the eggs look to have collapsed on one side, Am i right in thinking that the peat that im storing them in might not be moist enough ? Its not bone dry but its not moist either

 

[BigC]

Try water incubation in a clean sterilised container and keep the eggs apart if you can, Or use a little man made fibre wool (acrylic) and place the semi adhesive eggs on the strands of this and submerge in a shallow clean tub. Some eggs will not be fertilised anyway (fungus and opaque in colour)remove these daily.
If your using peat then it should be quite moist. Now the problem with peat is that when the fry develop and turn dark then they are hard to spot, so the hatching date is not easily ascertained.
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Thanks. Ive got 6 eggs in a tub in about inch of water at room temp with abit of java moss and added a couple of grains of salt, have i done it right so far? How long is there incubation period ? Is it 12-16 days ?

 

[BigC]

Between 16-21 days sometime a little longer temp dependant.
Everything looks fine
Good Luck
Keep us informed
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Great stuff. One of the eggs was fungused when i looked today so i removed it straight away. Do i need to change the water the eggs are in ?

 

[BigC]

Do i need to change the water the eggs are in ?

Not really No, but you can if you want place an airline in the tub set to a bubble every second or so for some water movement, I personally dont bother, if the eggs are viable then they will carry full term providing the storage water is pretty clean.
Your eggs should be darkening and you will know by now if they are viable.
below is an article I wrote cataloguing the development of a Killifish egg over a 12 day period, a different species of Aphyosemion but a similar cycle will be happening in your case.
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=301938&st=0
Regards
C

 

[muay]

Thanks again Big C