Female Molly Unable To Use Tail

[Maxine-R]

Request Help

Tank size: 54L
pH:6.8 - 7.2
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 2.5 - 5.0
nitrate: 50
kH: 180
gH: 250
tank temp: 24 - 26 ¤C

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior):
Naturally She is a pearl white all over however where her tail and body meet she looks pink on the inside
(almost like a bruise).
She is still coming up to feed.
She does not move around the tank much.
She tends to stay around the heater.
Spending most her time in with the plants, as if using the leaves to keep herself steady.
To move she swings her head and part of her body from side to side.

Volume and Frequency of water changes:
Because of recent problem a 25% water change has been performed every other day for the last 6 days (today is also a water change day but has not been done yet)

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank:
Stress Coat is added at every water change only.
I have 4 plants but do not know what they are (I've noticed they are starting to look a bit droopy and the leaves don't look too good) I do not know if this is causing a problem.

Tank inhabitants:
1 Male Molly,
2 Female Mollys (inc the sick one),
3 Male Guppies, 2 Tetra Neons (sex unknown),
2 Tetra Glowlights (sex unknown),
1 Plecostomus Bulldog (sex unknown).

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration):
She is a new addition with the Neons and bulldog but that was two weeks ago. No other items have been added since her arrival.


I am quite concerned for her. She's so beautiful to watch and I will miss her dearly if anything should happen to her. I have named her Pearl due to her colour. Up until a few days ago she was so lively and fun. I don't want her suffering & I don't want her to stop eating.

I do not know if this is of any concern but my male Molly has become some what nasty over the last week, he chases the other female Molly around a lot especially at feed time. Is it possible he has hurt my Pearl?

Please help me.
Thank you.

 

[Ch4rlie]

Hi
 
Ok, I think I posted on your other thread recently.
 
About cycling a tank. Am afraid this is basically can be the outcome of putting fish into a uncycled tank.
 
Cycing, in a nutshell, is having the right tyes of bacteria inside your filter and inside your tank to be able to deal with the fish poop. Fish poop after a short while turns into ammonia, which is toxic to fish

 
What we need to do is get these bacteria into the tank to be able to 'eat' this ammonia and that will convert this into nitrite, which also is toxic to fish. I see that you have 2.5 to 5.0 ppm of Nitrite, this tells us that you have the ammonia bacteria working but not enough nitrite bacteria yet, so we need to get this type of bacteria to get to a level so that they can 'eat' nitrite and turn that into nitrATe quickly, nitrAte which is also toxic to fish but at a much lower level than ammonia and nitrite. We deal with nitrate by doing weekly water changes.
 
Hope that helps a little in helping understand how a tank works for fish.
 
Here is the Fishless Cycle article again to save you looking for that again.
 
Fishless Cycle Article
 
What is likely to be happening at the moment with your molly, and will affect your other fish too sooner or later, is that they are getting ill because of this nitrite thats in your tank. I'd recommend you change at least 75% of your tank water to lower the amount of nitrite. Don't roget to add tap safe / dechlorinater to the new tap water before adding to the tank.
 
Then I may suggest you can either re-home your fish to someone who can look after your fish while you get this tank cycles, fishless cycles is by far the fastest way to cycle your tank, and quicker still is to get some filter media from an established tank as this will likely contain the bacterias you need to deal with ammonia and nitrite.
 
If this is not possible, a bottle of Dr Tim's One and Only Nitrfying Bacteria and follow the instructions on that bottle that will help a lot.
 
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:76693]
 
As mentioned already on your other thread, you mollies are too big and active for this 54L / 14.3 US gal tank, and also the Bulldog Pleco is not going to be too happy in that sized tank either as they grow to about 10 - 12 cm / 4 - 5 inches

 
Onr last thing, if you're unable or unwilling to re-home these fish to start a Fishless Cycle then perhaps reading these two article here, will help you -
 
Fish in Cycle Part I
 
 
 
A lot of information to digest am afraid and I do hope this will help you uinderstand the process and as a new fishkeeper this does not overwhelm you too much.
 
DO ask questions and queries should you need any advice or answers, we are here to help you out

 

[Maxine-R]

I have done alot of research about the "tank cycle". Before purchasing any fish I purchased the tank and set it up and left it running for two weeks. Then added my first set of fish. Then two weeks later added my second group of fish (inc my sick female molly) be for the stores would let me bring the fish home they checked a sample of water from my tank. I would not have been able to bring any of the fish home if the stores said my water wasn't right. I am not saying that my tank is established because I know this can take a long time and my nitRIte levels have spiked recently.

Why is it that she maybe sick because of the water when the tank was running four weeks be for we got her?

Also I have noticed that Pearl (my sick molly) is at an angle, its as if her tail is too heavy, it doesn't move at all. Is this due to the water or could it be anything else?

 

[Ch4rlie]

Sorry but LFS are the last place I would place any real trust on for information when comes to cycling.
 
It has been proven time and time again that a lot of LFS will say just about anything to sell their products or just simply ignorant staff.
 
And yes, a lot of LFS will sell you tank stocking regardless if tank is cycled or not.
 
Simply letting the tank run for two weeks without adding any source of ammonia or bottles of live bacteria like Dr Tim's and /or established filter media will not do very much

 
If you have lots of plants in your tank then its possible adding a few fish to keep bio load at a minimum at a time every week ot two may be ok, this is called a silent cycle. But you have to know what to look out for and do water changes if neccessary and lots of water testing to be sure.
 
A couple of questions first, have you done any water changes at all since adding your fish to your tank?
 
What is the most recent water tests results you have?
 
And what kind of water testing kit are you using?
Liquid form or a dip strip kind.

 

[Maxine-R]

Yes i have done water changes since adding first group of fish and since adding second group of fish. And with Pearl being ill i have done 25% water changes every other day (3 water changes in last 6 days)

Most recent test results are from yesterday (I have tested the water on the day between water changes)
Ammonia 0
NitRIte 2.5 - 5.0
NitRAte 50
GH 250
KH 180
PH 6.8 - 7.2

I know the NitRIte levels are high but have reduced since last test. GH, KH & PH have been consistent. NitRAte levels have also reduced since last test.

I use King British 6 in 1 water test strips.

 

[Maxine-R]

REALLY WORRIED.

just checked in on pearl, all the clear sections from her tail fin have gone!!! She's now left with what looks like white spikes for a tail.

And her body from the back of her dorsal fin to her tail looks furry!!!

What's wrong with her!?
How do I help her!?

Please help.

 

[Maxine-R]

I have moved pearl into a separate tank & used King British Desease Clear. I plan to do daily water changes and use the Desease clear every 3 days as instructed on the box.

Also I have done a water test in my main tank. Results are as follows:

Ammonia 0
NitRIte 1.0
NitRAte 50
GH 250
KH 180
PH 6.8 - 7.2
Temperature 24 - 26 ¤C

 

[Maxine-R]

Pictures arnt too clear but hopefully you can see the problem.

 

[Ch4rlie]

I think a large water change to bring down the nitrite would be a start.
 
It does sounds as if all these issues are stemming from the water quaility
 
One small point, these strip dip kits are not the best when comes to getting more accurate water parameter readings. They may serve as a very rough guide but can be wild in their accuracy. I have know aquarist say readings from one dip strip and then test another dip strip and get opposite readings!
 
Perhaps if you can, get a liquid based test kit, a bit more expensive but more accurate. AP Freshwater Master Kit is a popular choice due to the price and tests included.
 
[sharedmedia=core:attachments:75363]
 
I would urge you to read the articles again about fish in cycles so you can understand a little more about how the water parameters can affect fish in a uncycled tank.

 

[Maxine-R]

Ok. I will read the articles about water cycling again.

What is wrong with pearl? Is it a fungal problem?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

It is likely a secondary infection, possibly a fungus (like fin or tail rot) and was caused by a weakening of the fish's immune system due to the nitrite levels.
 
 
 
Step one:  Water change, water change, water change.  I repeat it for two reasons.  One - you need to do a large massive water change immediately to lower the nitrites.  Do not pass "Go", do not "collect $200".  It needs to be immediate.  Next, you will need to continue to change the water repeatedly to give her clean water to heal in.
 
 
Step two: Consider a medicine designed to deal with fin rot.   I'm not sure what is available in the UK, hopefully another member can chime in with that.
 
 
Step three:  Consider salt baths to deal with the issue head-on and keep it from spreading.  
 
 
Believe it or not, often times, salt baths and clean water alone could be enough to save your fish.  Here's a great article on the topic of salt baths and freshwater fish:  http/www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/2009/07/fish-baths.html

 

[NickAu]

If I may suggest something.
 
Because you need to do all these water changes, If you have a spare tank heater pre heat the new water in a bucket to match the temp of the water you are taking out. It might be less stress full on the fish.

 

[Essjay]

 
Step two: Consider a medicine designed to deal with fin rot.   I'm not sure what is available in the UK, hopefully another member can chime in with that.
 

 
My meds of choice would be Myxazin by Waterlife or eSHa 2000. The downside is that are not stocked by a lot of shops, especially the chain stores. You'll have more luck at an independent shop.

 

[Maxine-R]

Ok. I will read up on salt baths.

Pearl is in a seperate tank & I plan to do daily water changes.

Thank you for tip about using extra heater to prepare water.

Once I have read up about salt bath I will give that a try.

I medicated her yesterday with King British Desease Clear (for fungal and bacterial illness) will that not work?

 

[Essjay]

The King British med intended for finrot is 'Finrot and Fungus Control'. Disease Clear looks to be a general medication.