Fantail Goldfish Tails

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What are the pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate results in numbers?
What sort of filter is on the tank?
How often and how do you clean the filter?

How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you have substrate on the bottom of the aquarium?
If yes, do you gravel clean the substrate when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the aquarium?

How much salt did you add?
What are the tank dimensions (length x width x height)?


I'm assuming that is meant to be 140 litres not mls?

----------------------

Fantail goldfish have 2 tails. Your fish only appear to have 1 tail each and they are long tails, which means they are comet goldfish. The comet part of the name is due to the long tail. Neither appear to be shubunkins but they could have some shubunkin blood in them if one of their ancestors was a shubunkin. Goldfish can change colour as they age.

The white fish with a red head is a male and has white breeding tubercles on the side of his gill cover and they should be on the edge of the pectoral (side) fins too.

The primarily orange fish has a dark red patch on the bottom of the tail and also on the top edge of the tail and these are the wrong colour to be normal colouration and appear to be blood. It could be colouration but looks more blood coloured to me. The black patch getting smaller is nothing to worry about. The red might be.
Hi,
Thanks again.
I'm really worried. These two fish have such a big place in my heart. I'm trying my best to quickly understand how to help them get and remain healthy. I don't know whether to just give them Melafix to help her fin rot. I need to get the nitrate down ASAP too but don't know, whether to start adding stability along with Melafix. I don't know, whether to buy Seachem Purigen to attach with a string to the fluval F4.
The poor fish are just waiting, I don't kniw if the Melafix is enough, still 5 days to go.
Sorry to panic but, I've work tomorrow and will be worried whilst away, not that it helps just watching them.
I would really appreciate any further advice on her red tail please and do u think I should I do more for her than Melafix? Day 3 will be tomorrow.
I will of course be tackling the Nitrate levels for them, with immediate and future changes with increased water changes and adding more live plants for them as I can afford.
 
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What are the pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate results in numbers?
What sort of filter is on the tank?
How often and how do you clean the filter?

How often do you do water changes and how much do you change?
Do you have substrate on the bottom of the aquarium?
If yes, do you gravel clean the substrate when you do a water change?
Do you dechlorinate the new water before adding it to the aquarium?

How much salt did you add?
What are the tank dimensions (length x width x height)?


I'm assuming that is meant to be 140 litres not mls?

----------------------

Fantail goldfish have 2 tails. Your fish only appear to have 1 tail each and they are long tails, which means they are comet goldfish. The comet part of the name is due to the long tail. Neither appear to be shubunkins but they could have some shubunkin blood in them if one of their ancestors was a shubunkin. Goldfish can change colour as they age.

The white fish with a red head is a male and has white breeding tubercles on the side of his gill cover and they should be on the edge of the pectoral (side) fins too.

The primarily orange fish has a dark red patch on the bottom of the tail and also on the top edge of the tail and these are the wrong colour to be normal colouration and appear to be blood. It could be colouration but looks more blood coloured to me. The black patch getting smaller is nothing to worry about. The red might be.
Hi,
Thank you.
Have just re-tested nitrate levels have in fact since 3 days ago reduced, must be water changes. Phew.
Still very worried about her red tail and if Melafix is enough and if its fin rot, think it is.
I understand, after continuing to read, it's a continued aquarium healthy tank that is the cure and preventative.
Sorry for the earlier confusion on Nitrate levels.
Thanks for your patience and advice
 

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Yes 140 litres, sorry
Water change was 1/3 (well 25litres) every 3 weeks, am thinking to change to 50% every 2 weeks.
This is more like 1/6 every 3 weeks.
Recommended water change schedule for goldies is 50-75% twice a week, so at least 70 litres each and twice a week. If you have a python, or a homemade hose syphon with tap attachment, water changes are more manageable.

I would put the pebbles back in the corner as they will have some beneficial bacteria on them, and a sick fish won't appreciate any possible cycling issues.
 
This is more like 1/6 every 3 weeks.
Recommended water change schedule for goldies is 50-75% twice a week, so at least 70 litres each and twice a week. If you have a python, or a homemade hose syphon with tap attachment, water changes are more manageable.

I would put the pebbles back in the corner as they will have some beneficial bacteria on them, and a sick fish won't appreciate any possible cycling issues.
Thank you. I hadn't realised how inefficient the water changes were.
I genuinely appreciate your wisdom 🤗
 
I do generally 1x a week 90% water changes even on my goldfish tank, but it's also larger.

So a smaller tank is definitely going to need more frequent changes. 2x a week would be good while they're in their current setup.


If size is an issue, there are stock pond type ideas that will make suitable homes for them and depending where you live you may even be able to house them in an outdoor setup.


When it comes to treatment, your best option is "less is more". If you throw too much at them it can actually make it worse. So keep with the current treatment, and keep up on the water changes and monitor your nitrates. If they hit 20ppm, time to change the water. Melafix is kinda like snake oil, it doesn't really do a whole lot. Clean water is usually the first course of treatment for anything and you can use salt to help heal. Goldfish respond pretty good to aquarium salt.
 
I do generally 1x a week 90% water changes even on my goldfish tank, but it's also larger.

So a smaller tank is definitely going to need more frequent changes. 2x a week would be good while they're in their current setup.


If size is an issue, there are stock pond type ideas that will make suitable homes for them and depending where you live you may even be able to house them in an outdoor setup.


When it comes to treatment, your best option is "less is more". If you throw too much at them it can actually make it worse. So keep with the current treatment, and keep up on the water changes and monitor your nitrates. If they hit 20ppm, time to change the water. Melafix is kinda like snake oil, it doesn't really do a whole lot. Clean water is usually the first course of treatment for anything and you can use salt to help heal. Goldfish respond pretty good to aquarium salt.
Thank u, that's really helpful.
I'm learning alot and want to do the best for these rescue fish. I never realised how complex it could actually be. I want to do my best for them and, truly appreciate the time people like you are giving to answer me. It's such a relief.
I will now change their water twice weekly and, continue reading and learning for their best health.
Thank you 🤗
 
That's the right attitude to have :) they're in good hands I think
 
How long has the dark red patches been on the tail?
Do they appear to be getting bigger?

As mentioned by the others, do a big water change each week (minimum 50%).

I would keep the pebbles out but add some gravel or sand so there is something on the bottom of the tank.

Are you adding level or heaped tablespoons of salt?
You can use 2 to 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres of water when treating goldfish.

I never had any real positive results using Melafix. It might help but might not. Salt might not help either. At this stage I would do big water changes and add salt and Melafix if you like, then monitor over the next week or so. If the dark red patches get bigger then post more pictures.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
 
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I've kept and still keep some varieties of goldfish outdoors. From what I've noticed throughout the years, is that goldfish can develop other colors or even pattern throughout their lifespan. And there was nothing wrong with them. If I look at the one that you call a shubinkin, I do have to say that it doesn't look like a shubinkin at all. But that doesn't mean that it doesn't have shubinkin influence. The black mark in its tail seems nothing to be worried about.
 
I've kept and still keep some varieties of goldfish outdoors. From what I've noticed throughout the years, is that goldfish can develop other colors or even pattern throughout their lifespan. And there was nothing wrong with them. If I look at the one that you call a shubinkin, I do have to say that it doesn't look like a shubinkin at all. But that doesn't mean that it doesn't have shubinkin influence. The black mark in its tail seems nothing to be worried about.
It's the red marks in the tail that are what are concerning the OP here, black is normal yeah. But the red isn't a normal pigment coloration unfortunately
 
It's the red marks in the tail that are what are concerning the OP here, black is normal yeah. But the red isn't a normal pigment coloration unfortunately
Now, I see what you mean. My mistake...
 
How long has the dark red patches been on the tail?
Do they appear to be getting bigger?

As mentioned by the others, do a big water change each week (minimum 50%).

I would keep the pebbles out but add some gravel or sand so there is something on the bottom of the tank.

Are you adding level or heaped tablespoons of salt?
You can use 2 to 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres of water when treating goldfish.

I never had any real positive results using Melafix. It might help but might not. Salt might not help either. At this stage I would do big water changes and add salt and Melafix if you like, then monitor over the next week or so. If the dark red patches get bigger then post more pictures.

---------------------

SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), swimming pool salt, or any non iodised salt (sodium chloride) to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres (5 gallons) of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Huge thank you for this message I really appreciate your detail. It helps so much. Your expertise is truly invaluable.

The patches have developed over the last few weeks, the patches seem to have stopped growing since I've been doing the extra water changes and, using the Melafix, although as you say it's possibly the water quality improvement that's helping her.
Interesting that you keep goldfish outside. I had considered digging a pond next year in the garden but, well see it's a big job.

I use heaped tblspoons and will follow a regime of adding more this week and, I will post pictures next week too.

I have purchased a UV light, although the reviews for it's helpfulness in aiding healthy water for goldfish vary. It's a Green Killing Machine 9W (GKM9W) Aquarium UV Steriliser for up to 200L tank.

I've also bought them some new food with garlic added to help fight off infection and they seem to like it, New Life Spectrum Thera.

I can buy some sand for them but, need a good electric cleaner, as am worried about keeping water healthy and I know build up in the substrate will not be good for either goldfish. There's only the two of them in the tank.

Sincere thank you 🤗
 

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An ultraviolet steriliser (UV light) won't make any difference to this. Save your money and send it back or cancel the order.

-------------------

Garlic in fish food doesn't do much and is a bit of a gimmick. Fish food manufacturers put things in fish food that people recognise (eg: wheat flour, garlic, rosemary, vitamins). Most of these things are useful to people but not fish. You can try it and it might help but fish never evolved to eat terrestrial plants, let alone terrestrial plant bulbs like garlic.

Goldfish need lots of plant matter in their diet and you can grow duckweed (small floating plant) and other aquatic plants like Ambulia outside in plastic containers. Each week you bring some of the plants in and put them in the aquarium for the fish to eat.

-------------------

If you add a 1/2 to 1 inch layer of fine gravel to the aquarium and get a basic model gravel cleaner, you can gravel clean the substrate (gravel) each time you do a water change. Don't buy an electric gravel cleaner for an aquarium, they are rubbish and a waste of money. Just get a basic model gravel cleaner like the one in the following link and use that to drain water and clean the substrate at the same time. You can also make a gravel cleaner out of a plastic drink bottle and garden hose.


Home made gravel cleaner
Get a 1, 1.5 or 2 litre plastic drink bottle (like a Coca cola bottle).
Cut the bottom off the bottle and throw the bottom bit in the recycling bin.
Remove the cap and plastic ring from the top of the bottle and put them in the recycling bin.
That's the gravel cleaner part done.
Put a garden hose into the top of the bottle and run the hose out the door onto the lawn. If you don't have a lawn, you can use a shorter piece of hose and drain the water into a bucket.
You can buy clear hose from a hardware store and either get a hose that fits snuggly into the top of the bottle, or over the outside of the top of the bottle. The bigger diameter hose on the outside will drain the water faster and is better for big tanks. A hose that fits into the top of the bottle is better for smaller tanks.
 
An ultraviolet steriliser (UV light) won't make any difference to this. Save your money and send it back or cancel the order.

-------------------

Garlic in fish food doesn't do much and is a bit of a gimmick. Fish food manufacturers put things in fish food that people recognise (eg: wheat flour, garlic, rosemary, vitamins). Most of these things are useful to people but not fish. You can try it and it might help but fish never evolved to eat terrestrial plants, let alone terrestrial plant bulbs like garlic.

Goldfish need lots of plant matter in their diet and you can grow duckweed (small floating plant) and other aquatic plants like Ambulia outside in plastic containers. Each week you bring some of the plants in and put them in the aquarium for the fish to eat.

-------------------

If you add a 1/2 to 1 inch layer of fine gravel to the aquarium and get a basic model gravel cleaner, you can gravel clean the substrate (gravel) each time you do a water change. Don't buy an electric gravel cleaner for an aquarium, they are rubbish and a waste of money. Just get a basic model gravel cleaner like the one in the following link and use that to drain water and clean the substrate at the same time. You can also make a gravel cleaner out of a plastic drink bottle and garden hose.


Home made gravel cleaner
Get a 1, 1.5 or 2 litre plastic drink bottle (like a Coca cola bottle).
Cut the bottom off the bottle and throw the bottom bit in the recycling bin.
Remove the cap and plastic ring from the top of the bottle and put them in the recycling bin.
That's the gravel cleaner part done.
Put a garden hose into the top of the bottle and run the hose out the door onto the lawn. If you don't have a lawn, you can use a shorter piece of hose and drain the water into a bucket.
You can buy clear hose from a hardware store and either get a hose that fits snuggly into the top of the bottle, or over the outside of the top of the bottle. The bigger diameter hose on the outside will drain the water faster and is better for big tanks. A hose that fits into the top of the bottle is better for smaller tanks.
Hi,
Thank you again for this information. I am indebted to you.

I have a Fluval Easy vac, and a 12 litre bucket and now x3 25 litre water canisters, which are working well for water changes. I just hadn't got the amounts or regularity right..

I have as you suggested added, well it's 2 and 1/4 tblspns salt to the new 25 litres water, for a water change today (4th day Melatrix too). I'm not sure what per centage water change I should change I should do for the first 48 hour salt treatment. And then going forward water changes next 2 weeks with reduced salt, after the 48 hours.
How much water and, how often should I water change during these next 48hrs/and 2weeks of treatment?

Heartfelt thanks 🤗
 

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