Experience Of Lowering Ph Using Almond Leaves And Peat Pellets?

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FishNChimps

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My 110 litre tank has a high ph of 8.2. I'd like to increase its small population of fish but only after bringing down the ph. I'm considering putting peat pellets in the filter, and dropping some almond leaves into the tank, as I've read that this can be effective.
Apart from water discolouration, are there any other implications of using this type of treatment? For example, is maintaining a lower ph at a constant level difficult? How regularly should leaves and pellets be replaced?
 
Changing your parameters is not that simple. pH, KH and GH (or more broadly) TDS are all intertwined. As a result, there is a difference between changing one's parameters and holding them stable over time.
 
I have done this all and still have one tank in which I do so. The best way to explain it all is to refer you to the following:http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/begin-chem.html#altering
Note, this is a frame I have extracted from the site. If you wish to see the entire information, go here: http://fins.actwin.com/aquariafaq.html
 
Just as an fyi- to to do what I do, I user 50% ro/di water, muriatic acid, catappas in the tank and alder cones in a filter bag. Not only am I lowering the pH but am also lowering the TDS. The initial parameters for the tank were set at pH 4.2 and TDS in the low 30 ppm range. Over the next year+ I gradually increased things to pH 6.5 and TDS in the 60 ppm range where I have held them since. My tap is pH 7.1 and the TDS are 83 ppm, GH is 5 dg and KH is 4 dg. Oh yes, I have a $240 continuous digital monitor on the tank which measures conductivity/TDS, Temp. and pH. Trying to know this information using hobby test kits is pretty much impossible.
 
Finally, the TDS are way more important for what you want to do than the pH. Many fish are a lot more tolerant of changing pH than changing TDS.
 
Following on what TTA posted...the initial GH and KH of your source water are significant because the pH is tied to these and the KH in particular acts as a "buffer" to prevent the pH from lowering.  Without knowing the GH and KH (and pH) of your source water, presumably tap water, it is impossible to answer your questions on how much and how long/often.  If your tap water is near zero GH/KH as mine is, for example, the leaves would lower the pH fairly quickly and significantly, and it would remain there.  But if your tap water is moderately hard , chances are the leaves/peat might have no effect at all, or very little, and if they did it would be exhausted fairly quickly.
 
You can ascertain the GH and KH from your municipal water people, usually on their website.  No need to buy a test kit at this point.
 
Another thing to mention is that a high pH does not necessarily mean high GH/KH, though it often does.  But many water authorities now raise the pH (to prevent erosion of pipes and such from acidic water) using substances like ash which does not affect GH/KH, and in this case the pH would lower fairly easily.
 
Byron.
 
Thank you both for very comprehensive responses. It's immensely frustrating to be living in a very hard water area (SE England) with naturally high ph levels. I really don't get why our LFS sells so many fish species suited to friendlier water, but I guess high fish mortality keeps customers coming through the doors. From the above info it sounds like my proposed measures would have negligible effects. My tank's design (cylindrical) and setting won't accommodate extra equipment, so it might be that buying treated water from the LFS might be the only reliable solution.
 

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