Do You Test Your Betta's Water?

jollysue

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I decided to test My Betta's tank water. I used Aquarium Pharmaceuticals tests.

I have 2 x 2.5 usg and 2 x 3 usg and a 1.5-2 usg or so bowl. There are no filters. They have flourescent lights. The bowl is under a table lamp.

There are 2 young PKs, a young VT and an older VT female/full size, as well as Mr Quasimodo, a small (1") PK deformy in a large bowl.

After two weeks there were no ammonia or nitrite readings. The larger VT female was just beginning to show a slight off color tint in the ammonia.

Any one else got facts?

Please no flaming or yelling, just facts and experience.
 
I don't have bettas in anything smaller than 15 gallons (female sorority and male divided tank) and because of that, I keep the tanks filtered and heated as I would any other tank. I do readings once a week, if all is well. If there's an illness or I'm doing some sort of meds, I might test more often. My readings are pH 6.6, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20.
 
i test my water every 2 weeks it always the seem i did it more to begin with but found it not as neccesary after a while :good:
 
I dont have my male betta yet, any thoughts as to what ph and readings I should be aiming for? I'd be using an un-filtered 3 gal tank with small heater.
 
I would suggest you start by testing everything, so you will know the tap water paramaters. The most important are the ammonia and nitrite readings. I seldom test for nitrate or ph and I don't have a Gh test kit. But it is good to do them. Get a good test kit and not test strips. I like the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. It is easy to do and easy to read. But I don't know what is available in the UK.

Ammonia and nitrite should be 0, nitrate under 25. ph should be in the 8 +/- 5 but the most importabt with that is consistancy. Betta is a soft water fish so will like softer water, but will tolerate higher. If your water is 9, ask an expert. :)

The reason I brought this up is because of the excitement about doing water changes every few days. I aim at every week, but I don't always make it and feel guilty.

It matters if you let uneaten food stay in the tank. That can foul the water.

Oops I think that should be ph of 7 + or - 5.
 
Isn't there not much point in testing for nitrite/nitrate as there is no filter? The tank will never be cycled therefore there will never be stable acceptable levels to look at.

Ammonia will build up until you do a water change in an uncycled tank. I guess ammonia is really the only important thing to look at, to gauge how often you need to do water changed before it becomes highly toxic. Which for a betta-only tank, would be awhile since they don't produce a lot of waste.

I always keep my fish with filters so I can cycle them and monitor the levels accordingly. All my tanks have been cycled for awhile, generally I only test if I suspect something is off - e.g. a fish acting oddly.

I also recommend the API master test kit.
 
The reason I bring it up is because there are a multitude that say an unfiltered or small tank of 5 usg should be 100% changed every few days. Some get very dogmatic about it. We usually recommend once a week. But I have done some testing now and so far it looks like once every 1.5 to 2 weeks is acceptable.

I hadn't thought about the nitrite not being present as there wouldn't be enough bacteria to change the ammonia significantly.

Why then would not ammonia removers help?

I have in the past used filters with the boys, but found them to not make enough difference and to give me excuse to be even lazier. With the small tanks the tanks still need frequent service and then there is the filter to service also. Faster and easier just to do without the filter.
 
i just bought a mega testing kit for like $30. i tests ammonia, ph, nitrate, nitrite. i did this mostly for the sorority tank because there are six fish in there. i am sure it will be crazy for the first month.

i will also be testing the baby biOrb although i expect to have better readings in that tank than the mega orb.
 

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