Designed By A 4 Year Old - 10 Gallon

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I think it has more to do with the angle and distance of the pics than anything else.

Currently all I have is just the hood that came with the kit and it has two 15W incandescent. That can be changed.
 
Well you could be right, I could be responding to liking the camera closer as in the "before" picture. Ironically I also realize the heater itself with its little red knob was helping to scribe a triangle, being the high point of a line that then passed down to the left and is somewhat more defined as a triangle because of the 2 plants I had you move! Speaking of those 2 moved ones, try moving the red to the left some and the bright green to the right some. And try to make the front red one lower as well as more hidden between the white rocks. Then try taking a closer picture to match the other one more. (I know, I know, these are the plastic ones and I've gotta quit, lol.)

~~waterdrop~~
 
The bright green one can't be moved. The base on that thing is huge and it barely fit in between those rocks. I just noticed that the rock is positioned a little different because of trying to fit that bright green one in. I agree that the front red one is to tall but I have selected a very small real plant and was planning on moving it over to the left anyway so it would be right at the entrance of the pathway. That would also give me more room to play around with the one behind it. I was toying with the idea of laying the heater on it's side toward the bottom but wanted to check and see if I could before it did it.

I'm liking the looks of it and will only do more adjustments once the real plants are in. :lol: So now about the lighting and fertilizer?

Do you or anyone else see any faults with the above plant list?
 
Well, the "low-light" approach generally starts at about .8 watts/USgallon and ranges up to about 2 watts/USgallon, where high-tech approach begins to take over. These two are not the only approaches to planted tanks but they dominate the scene. The problem is that the "watts" are of course not by a long shot a measure of light, but a measure of power. The efficiency of the lighting device and the optical aspects of delivering the light to the leaves are confounders of this simplistic numerical crutch. The guideline was developed for T8 or T12 tubes (I forget which originally) and T5 tubes, being more efficient need a slightly different conversion. Aaron, in his most recent article recommends 1w/gT5 and 1.5w/gT8 for low-light. I assume that since incandescents are less efficient than fluorescents, more wattage is needed to end up at the same place. It might even be that your two 15 watt bulbs, instead of being way too much at 3w/g for a 10g would be about right. But this begs two questions, namely whether I can even hope to remember which volume of tank is now in your pics as you've thoroughly confused me moving tanks to and fro with the neon girl. Am I right its the 10 we've been decorating and its the 5.5 beta one to the right when I see the dual picture? But of course the other question is the more difficult as we must attempt to find some planted tank expert and they've been in short supply lately it has seemed. I suppose you can start a little thread in planted and we'll see if there's any luck. Likewise on the plants themselves. On the face of it they are are of the general types I think are ok but usually the serious planted guys rescue me and give the really specific advice so with them not around as much I'm exposed for the planted newbie that I really am! Still, we could do worse and I can at least say that anubias and vals of all sorts are worth taking a crack at and the others you've mentioned are at least familys I've often seen mentioned as (stem plants in some cases) that are also quite good for beginners to try. As far as prep for nutrition, we over here in the US are at a distinct disadvantage relative to our many UK friends on the forum. They can simply pick up some TPN+ and have a single thing to dose. For us we can either order up some dry chems and mix up our own (I'd have to really dig to find my link for the chems) or we can dose liquids. My choice so far has been to dose liquids - I use Seachem ferts in a great variety of bottles. That has come about as my way of "stalling" while I slowly gather info with which to get more serious at some point hopefully. The simple Seachem Flourish (the plain one), along with Excel is a reasonable way to start I feel. WD
 
Yes we have been moving the 10 gal around. It is a standard tank 20" long x 10" deep x 12" high. I'll post a thread tomorrow in the planted section and see what they have to say. I've found a little place in South Western OH to order plants from so I should get them next day once I have everything lined up. Thanks for your help so far.
 
Just read through the entire thread, you've come a long way from that first fluro post haha well done!
 
Thanks. But I got a lot of help along the way.

Just a quick question. The fish are still hanging out on the left side of the tank (now in the open area) and I think it's because the current is to strong. The wood that I removed was partially positioned in front of the flow. If I adjusted the flow down on the AquaClear 20 how much would that effect the filtration? Would it still be able to keep up?

Water stats are just where they should be. 7.8/0/0/10
 
I just switched it over and they immediately started to migrate over. Starting to see a lot of exploring in the plants. I've got my order just about ready for the real ones. I have to find two substitutes and then I'm pulling the trigger. I've missed this weeks shipment but I should have them by next Friday.
 
Good for you. I'll be interested to try and follow your plant experience along..

The FlowRate/Circulation issue is an interesting one in my mind. I find that there seems to be a frustrating trade-off between a couple of situations that can seem sort of far apart from each other. On the one side, I feel there are nice community tanks that offer a more "settled" water setting that a lot of fish seem to relax in where the circulation is not too harsh. For sake of conversation I'd put this at maybe a turnover of 4. Then there are the tanks with larger cichlids in them where even non-planted fishkeepers want to be at least above 5 on the turnover rate just because of the higher waste levels. But the real "other end" of things are the planted tanks where lots of members do not hestitate to encourage a turnover rate of 10 and some go higher than that. That's a very large movement of water. Their concern is keeping algae down and having more control over the dissolved nutrients in water I believe. I think one of the problems, or at least my simplistic image of it, is that the lakes and streams where these fish naturally live just offer considerably larger habitats with an obviously larger number of niches where the fish can self-regulate their surroundings. If they want to rest they can find a quiet still sidewater. If they feel frisky they can get out in the main current. There are also probably much greater ranges of plant settings, with algae showing up more in some and less in others. When we create a small setting in a glass box we simply can not create all these different types of circulation for our fish (giant tanks get closer but still hardly recreate nature in this regard) and when we want a pristine plant setting, we are forced to do some things that might restrict the fish to a bit more current perhaps than they'd like all the time. This is why we see the folks doing planted tanks playing with where they point their filter outlets and where they place their powerheads, but overall its a bit difficult I think. Stocking choices even come in to play when thinking about this as different species can really come from backgrounds that vary between lake, river and stream settings.

Sorry John for going a bit "stream of conciousness" there!

~~waterdrop~~
 
According to the AquaClear website the flow control can restrict the output to 1/3 of it rating, roughly 33 gph. While the fish seem to like it that not going to work once the plants are in, correct?
 
Perhaps you can form enough of a thick plant "barrier" around the output area that it will still create more calm spaces for the fish...
 
I went to the LFS today and grabbed a bottle of Flourish (and a new tank, heater, gravel, driftwood & frozen bloodworm but that's beside the point) and didn't notice until I got home that it's Flourish "Trace". Will that be okay to start off with?
 
No, unfortunately Flourish Trace is very specialized. Its a micronutrient cocktail meant to be dosed along with the macronutrients. I use it, but when I dose it, I also dose Flourish Excel and each of the three Flourish N, P and K.. so its 5 bottles you have to uncap. The Trace does not have iron so it may be that their Iron product should also be part of the regimen but I just haven't bothered to look at those numbers yet as I have some plain Flourish still left and it has iron so I dose a little of it periodically. Note that all of this is not really called for in low-light technique. I'm just playing with it as part of some experimenting I'm doing. You might want to consider swapping your Trace for a bottle of plain Flourish.

~~waterdrop~~
 

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