strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
Hi. Would it be possible that underdosing dechlor would slow a fishes cycle down,and also can you overdose dechlor?
Sorry if these are generic questions.
Rich
Sorry if these are generic questions.
Rich
Dechlorination
- Thread starter strobe1980
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It is quite difficult to overdose on most dechlorination products but i believe it is possible for it to happen. If there is any chlorine it the water it will damage (and completely kill at higher concentrations) the kind of bacteria we keep in our filters, so yes, it is possible under dosing can slow down a cycle.
Is there a particular reason you ask out of curiosity? Most dechlorinators have instructions with them, if yours does then you should be fine following them
Is there a particular reason you ask out of curiosity? Most dechlorinators have instructions with them, if yours does then you should be fine following them
Main issue with a dechlorinator overdose would probably be cost, as the costs do start to add up eventually.
Otherwise it is a source of sodium which in really large doses could cause problems, but otherwise, no, I can't see why it'd be a problem in overdose.
Underdose, as tuxyu said, could leave some chlorine to damage the bacteria.
Otherwise it is a source of sodium which in really large doses could cause problems, but otherwise, no, I can't see why it'd be a problem in overdose.
Underdose, as tuxyu said, could leave some chlorine to damage the bacteria.
strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
I Am Generally interested in learning as Mich about keeping water as possible but there is also a practical reason for asking.
On the 31St of dec I started my fishless cycle by adding what I thought was correct by much calculations 4ppm of ammo but it turned out to be 6-8ppm I noticed it was round high and asked a few questions on this forum which led me to a 40% water change bringing the ammo down to 3ppm which dropped down to 0.50 ,this was the 4th day of the cycle I then added enough ammo to bring back upto 4ppm or so I thought,it was reading 6ppm again so i performed another water change on the 5th day which brought it back to 4ppm,it's now been 10days in total and 5 days since I did the water change ,i am seeing no change in ammo at all so this brought me to the question am i underdosing the dechlor and the bacteriis dying OR am I simply being impatient??
On the 31St of dec I started my fishless cycle by adding what I thought was correct by much calculations 4ppm of ammo but it turned out to be 6-8ppm I noticed it was round high and asked a few questions on this forum which led me to a 40% water change bringing the ammo down to 3ppm which dropped down to 0.50 ,this was the 4th day of the cycle I then added enough ammo to bring back upto 4ppm or so I thought,it was reading 6ppm again so i performed another water change on the 5th day which brought it back to 4ppm,it's now been 10days in total and 5 days since I did the water change ,i am seeing no change in ammo at all so this brought me to the question am i underdosing the dechlor and the bacteriis dying OR am I simply being impatient??
I would lean towards the impatient. ;-)
Did you see any increase in nitrite or nitrate when you saw the drop in ammonia? Generally, I believe its normal for the initial drop of ammonia to happen independent of any rise in nitrite/nitrate, but upon the 2nd dosing, it remains static and reduces much slower.
It takes a while for the entire process to happen. 6 weeks is a general timeframe, but it could be shorter or longer, for the entire cycle. The nitrite spike doesn't normally show up for 2 weeks. At this point there's no reason to do any water changes, so the dechlorinator issue is now moot. The chlorine is long gone and even the chloramines if not neutralized should have deteriorated as well. (By the way, if your local water company uses chloramines, your water already has a bit of ammonia in it naturally from that.)
Did you see any increase in nitrite or nitrate when you saw the drop in ammonia? Generally, I believe its normal for the initial drop of ammonia to happen independent of any rise in nitrite/nitrate, but upon the 2nd dosing, it remains static and reduces much slower.
It takes a while for the entire process to happen. 6 weeks is a general timeframe, but it could be shorter or longer, for the entire cycle. The nitrite spike doesn't normally show up for 2 weeks. At this point there's no reason to do any water changes, so the dechlorinator issue is now moot. The chlorine is long gone and even the chloramines if not neutralized should have deteriorated as well. (By the way, if your local water company uses chloramines, your water already has a bit of ammonia in it naturally from that.)
Funny, I am on day 31 of my cycle, in the same situation as OP and asking myself the same question.
I have been getting paranoid about my chlorine levels, tested chlorine again today with strip test but it is so hard to tell the difference between 0 mg/L and 0.8 mg/L, I'm not entirely happy that it's chlorine-free. Added a bit more dechlorinator to the tank today but I know that adding too much can be detrimental to the cycle as well.
I have been getting paranoid about my chlorine levels, tested chlorine again today with strip test but it is so hard to tell the difference between 0 mg/L and 0.8 mg/L, I'm not entirely happy that it's chlorine-free. Added a bit more dechlorinator to the tank today but I know that adding too much can be detrimental to the cycle as well.
strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
I had no drop in ammonia at all only when I did the first water change because the ammonia was around 6-8ppm,I did a 40% water change which brought it down. There were no signs of nitrite at all.i have checked my tap water 0ppm ammo,5ppm nitrate.
My dechlor question has been answered thankfully so ill keep waiting ,how long is to long for the ammonia drop to happen ,should I stay with it for another week and then start to worry or just wait for it to eventually drop?
My dechlor question has been answered thankfully so ill keep waiting ,how long is to long for the ammonia drop to happen ,should I stay with it for another week and then start to worry or just wait for it to eventually drop?
It is highly variable, unfortunately. Sometimes as little as a week, and sometimes 3-4 weeks for a drop.
strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
Is there any proof of which filter/media is best for culturing bacteria and also any proof of which of these has cycled the quickest?
I'm using an Eheim biopower 200 with one of the stages roved purely cause it was to tall for my tank.it has sponge in the first stage ceramic balls in the second and sponge as a last stage, the stage removed was also ceramic balls.
I'm using an Eheim biopower 200 with one of the stages roved purely cause it was to tall for my tank.it has sponge in the first stage ceramic balls in the second and sponge as a last stage, the stage removed was also ceramic balls.
Ceramics as supposed to be good. Biowheels are also supposed to be good. Not sure what's the best, I don't know that its been studied specifically.
I use ceramics even though my filters don't have a true spot for them. I use the Marineland Penguin's (200s at home & 350s at work) and use the extra space in the back for the ceramics in a little pouch.
I use ceramics even though my filters don't have a true spot for them. I use the Marineland Penguin's (200s at home & 350s at work) and use the extra space in the back for the ceramics in a little pouch.
strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
Do you work in the aquatics trade eagle? I should have bought an external really, so much more space for media! Maybe on my next tank I'll invest in an external; )
No. I work in a school. But, a friend of mine and I are putting a 110 gallon together, just for fun! He's a marine guy, but a 110 gallon tank sitting empty made us both drool and decided to do something with it.
We went with the Penguin 350s on it (plus a powerhead for circulation) because for the money, I think they are the best filters. They have lots of space for extra media besides the standard cartridge that comes with it. (There are two slots in the Penguin 200s and 350, unlike most other Hang on the Back filters). This space is great for adding ceramics. Plus, there is the biowheel which never needs to be replaced (unless it rips). I have 2 200s on my 56 gallon at home, and 2 350s on the tank at school - currently cycling. Will be adding fish around Jan. 28th/29th.
We went with the Penguin 350s on it (plus a powerhead for circulation) because for the money, I think they are the best filters. They have lots of space for extra media besides the standard cartridge that comes with it. (There are two slots in the Penguin 200s and 350, unlike most other Hang on the Back filters). This space is great for adding ceramics. Plus, there is the biowheel which never needs to be replaced (unless it rips). I have 2 200s on my 56 gallon at home, and 2 350s on the tank at school - currently cycling. Will be adding fish around Jan. 28th/29th.
strobe1980
Fish Fanatic
110Gallon! Very nice,now that is what you call a tank: )
I went for the Eheim as I read a fair few positive reviews, only problem is that it's an internal and takes up precious space.
I'll check out the penguins, are they available in the uk?
I went for the Eheim as I read a fair few positive reviews, only problem is that it's an internal and takes up precious space.
I'll check out the penguins, are they available in the uk?
I couldn't tell you, sorry.
Yeah, the 110 gallon is sweet. Its 6 feet long so we should have some nice shoals. We are going with 24 bloodfin tetras, 24 cardinal tetra, about 15 cories (7 julii and 8 false julli), and a BN pleco or two. If you can't tell, we are of the mind that more little fish in a big shoal is more impressive than one large fish. Certainly we could get a few varieties of much larger fish, but generally speaking, that's far less interesting to me. I like to watch fish interact in groups, and that's what we should end up with. Its going to be a South American tank. Not a true Biotype, but as close as we can do on a shoestring budget. Planted, with local rocks. We are looking for a bit of a blackwater feel, but we still have a ways to go with that.
Yeah, the 110 gallon is sweet. Its 6 feet long so we should have some nice shoals. We are going with 24 bloodfin tetras, 24 cardinal tetra, about 15 cories (7 julii and 8 false julli), and a BN pleco or two. If you can't tell, we are of the mind that more little fish in a big shoal is more impressive than one large fish. Certainly we could get a few varieties of much larger fish, but generally speaking, that's far less interesting to me. I like to watch fish interact in groups, and that's what we should end up with. Its going to be a South American tank. Not a true Biotype, but as close as we can do on a shoestring budget. Planted, with local rocks. We are looking for a bit of a blackwater feel, but we still have a ways to go with that.
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